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Sericaia: A Traditional Portuguese Pudding Recipe from the Alentejo

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Sericaia: A Traditional Portuguese Pudding Recipe

Sericaia, a delightful traditional dessert from Portugal, holds a special place in our recipe collection. This classic Portuguese custard comes from the city of Elvas in the Alentejo region of Portugal. It is often served with a generous helping of plums and is perfect as a cozy dessert or a sweet treat alongside a cup of tea.

What is Sericaia?

Sericaia, also known as “Sericaia Alentejana,” is a sublime combination of egg yolks, sugar, flour, milk, and cinnamon, creating a unique texture and flavor profile. Like many Portuguese conventual sweets, it boasts a history linked to the resourcefulness of nuns in convents who, in the past, used leftover egg yolks to create various desserts. This particular dessert links back to the nuns at the convents of Nossa Senhora da Conceição and Santa Clara in Elvas.

Sericaia, Photo by Food from Portugal, Flickr

The History of Sericaia

The history of Sericaia is as rich as its taste. There are two different theories about the origins of Sericaia. One states that sericaia may have been influenced by a coconut custard described as serikaya, which resulted from the Portuguese colonization of Malacca in the early 1500s. The governor of Goa, Portuguese India, Constantino de Bragança, is believed to have brought the serikaya recipe back to Portugal in the 1500s. The Elvas nuns then reinterpreted it, later adding cinnamon when it was brought back from Asia in the 1600s.

A second theory suggests that it was the Portuguese sericaia that influenced the creation of serikaya. Bread replaced pastry, and coconut milk replaced dairy milk in the Malay-Indo region. Regardless of how sericaia reached the Portugal table, it is now here to stay. It is often served with stewed Reine Claude plums grown in the region.

The Sericaia Recipe

6-8 portions

Here, we share our favorite recipe for Sericaia, inviting you to recreate this Portuguese culinary gem at home.

Ingredients

For the Pudding:

  • 6 large egg yolks
  • 150 g granulated sugar
  • 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
  • 500 ml whole milk
  • 1 cinnamon stick
  • Lemon zest from one lemon

For the Plum Compote:

  • 500 g plums, pitted and quartered
  • 100 g sugar
  • 1 cinnamon stick
  • Water as needed

Instructions

For the Pudding:

  1. Preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F).
  2. In a bowl, whisk together the egg yolks and sugar until light and fluffy.
  3. Gently fold in the flour.
  4. In a saucepan, heat the milk with the cinnamon stick and lemon zest until just about to boil. Remove the cinnamon stick.
  5. Gradually add the warm milk to the egg mixture, stirring continuously.
  6. Pour the mixture into a shallow, ovenproof dish. Sprinkle the top generously with ground cinnamon.
  7. Bake in the preheated oven for about 30 minutes, or until the top is golden and the pudding has a slight wobble.

For the Plum Compote:

  1. In a saucepan, combine plums, sugar, cinnamon, and a splash of water.
  2. Cook over medium heat until the plums are soft and the sauce has thickened.
  3. Serve the compote warm over the baked sericaia.
Freshly made sericaia, Photo by Becky Gillespie

Enjoying Sericaia

Sericaia is best enjoyed warm, with the plum compote adding a delightful contrast to the creamy, subtly sweet pudding. Store any leftover sericaia in the refrigerator and eat it within three days.

Feel free to share your experience or ask any questions in the comments below. We hope you enjoy making and savoring this exquisite Portuguese dessert as much as we do!

Try to find this can of plums in a Portuguese supermarket for that perfect plum accompaniment to the sericaia, Photo by Becky Gillespie

A dancer’s guide to Lisbon, Portugal: Kizomba, bachata, salsa, swing dance, and more!

Imagine this: you’re sipping a cocktail next to the beautiful Atlantic ocean, the jubilant sound of salsa your soundtrack as the waves roll in. To your right, dancers from all over the world are dancing salsa together. Suddenly, the rhythms quicken and the dancers’ bodies move in closer as bachata begins. After three more songs, bodies pressed together and pushing back, together and back, the percussive sounds of kizomba take over. Some dancers sit down next to you. Others get up and head excitedly to the dance floor. Welcome to Lisbon, Portugal, a melting pot of cultures and countries uniting in the spirit of dance.   

Finding connection through the dance community in Lisbon

Aliénor Salmon left her job as a happiness researcher at the UN in 2016 to dance around the world, ultimately writing a book about her experience called Finding Rhythm: An International Dance Journey. She has now settled in Lisbon and believes that “Lisbon offers a great discovery of different dance styles, especially for beginners who want to have a try and see what dance is for them without feeling intimidated.” When asked about the best dances to try in the city, she offered, “Lisbon has a strong tango scene, and a vibrant Forró community which have been my favorite so far. And without a doubt, Kizomba which is originally from Angola, became known to the world in Lisbon and is the next style I plan to learn.”

Dancing in Lisbon, Photo provided by Aliénor Salmon

Fellow Lisbon resident Paula Nogueira from Brazil added, “Dancing is when you leave your mind behind and connect solely with your feelings, letting yourself be carried away by the rhythm of the music. It’s something that everyone of all ages can experience by taking a dance class.”

This guide will introduce you to 11 types of dance you can learn in Lisbon, highlighting the best places to take classes and the most popular weekly dance meetups. Whether you’re a seasoned dancer or have two left feet, Lisbon’s vibrant dance community welcomes everyone!

Where to Dance in Lisbon

1. Kizomba

Kizomba is a dance and music genre that originated in Angola in the late 20th century. It evolved from traditional Angolan dances like Semba and Kilapanga, incorporating elements from Caribbean zouk. Kizomba’s name, meaning “party” in Kimbundu, a Bantu language spoken in Angola, reflects its festive roots and social nature.

The style of Kizomba is characterized by a slow, sensual rhythm and close connection between partners. Dancers move smoothly with grounded steps, emphasizing a wave-like flow in their body movements. Its intimacy is marked by synchronized leg movements and a tight embrace, allowing for subtle lead and follow signals.

Internationally, Kizomba has grown, blending with other genres to form fusion styles like Urban Kiz. Despite its evolution, traditional Kizomba remains popular, celebrated for its emotional depth and cultural authenticity.

Lisbon is the world’s biggest hub for Kizomba outside of Angola and is considered as the place that first put Kizomba on an international stage. Many clubs and studios offer classes and social dancing nights. Barrio Latino in Santos often hosts Kizomba events. Additionally, Havan Way, near the waterfront, provides a fantastic atmosphere for dancers. For an authentic experience, check out Massa Club, frequented by locals and tourists alike. These venues cater to all levels, from beginners to advanced dancers.

Where to Learn Kizomba in Lisbon: Jazzy Dance Studios is a top choice for learning Kizomba in Lisbon. They offer classes for all levels, from beginner to advanced. There are four locations in Lisbon, but Santos is the biggest. UDance, a new dance school right next to the Jazzy Dance Santos location, also offers a large number of Kizomba classes. Escola Sabor & Dança (R. João de Freitas Branco) and Dance Factory Studios also offer several kizomba classes throughout the week.

Where to Dance Kizomba in Lisbon: In Lisbon, you are spoiled for choice when it comes to Kizomba meetups and places to dance. Dance Factory Studios has a Kizomba class followed by a dance social every Sunday at 10:30 am. Jazzy Dance Studios in Santos also has a Sunday social combining bachata, salsa, and kizomba tracks called DanSunday that starts at 5 pm and begins with dance classes followed by a social. Entry costs 6€ for Jazzy students and 8€ for Non-Students. Please bring cash.

B.leza Club near Cais do Sodré offers kizomba workshops and events, especially on Sundays starting from 7pm. Barrio Latino in Santos also hosts a number of different dance parties with Kizomba usually played on Saturdays along with bachata and salsa. Top Floor in Parque das Nações also hosts various kizomba and semba parties.

For more upcoming kizomba events, check here.

Kizomba dance teacher Kwenda Lima watching students in Lisbon, garbo photo, Flickr

2. Salsa

Salsa originated in the Caribbean in the early 20th century, blending African, European, and indigenous influences. It evolved from earlier dance forms such as Son, Mambo, and Cha-cha-cha. Immigrants brought salsa to New York in the 1960s, where it quickly became popular.

Salsa is known for its energetic, vibrant style. Dancers move to a rhythm of quick steps and turns, often improvising. The dance is performed in pairs, with a strong emphasis on hip movement and fluidity.

The music driving salsa is as important as the dance itself, characterized by a mix of percussion, brass, and vocals. Salsa styles vary regionally, from the Cuban “Casino” to the New York “On2” style. Each style offers a unique interpretation, but all share the spirited essence of salsa.

In Lisbon, Portugal, Barrio Latino stands out for salsa enthusiasts, offering vibrant dance nights. Another hotspot is Havan Way, known for its Latin rhythms and dance lessons. For an authentic experience, visit Casa do Brasil de Lisboa, which hosts regular salsa events. Each venue provides a unique atmosphere, catering to dancers of all levels. Whether you’re a beginner or a seasoned dancer, Lisbon’s salsa scene is welcoming and exhilarating.

Where to Learn Salsa in Lisbon: Jazzy Dance Studios, UDance, Dance Factory Studios, Escola Sabor & Dança, and Academy World Dances all offer salsa classes for every skill level. Their experienced instructors make learning salsa accessible and enjoyable. Cuban salsa with Roberto Lauermann Val also comes highly recommended.

Where to Dance Salsa in Lisbon: Like kizomba listed above, you can dance salsa at Jazzy Dance Studios in Santos at DanSunday on Sundays starting at 5 pm. Barrio Latino in Santos also hosts salsa and bachata on one floor mostly on Saturday nights. Check out Top Floor in Parque das Nações as they host many Afrolatina events mixing salsa, bachata, and kizomba. 

Information for one salsa party that has been going on for more than 20 years on Saturday nights near the ferry port in Calcilhas can be found here.

Since they specialize in salsa, it’s worth mentioning the monthly dance social at Academy World Dances (Rua Flores do Lima 8) on the first Friday of every month from 5:00 pm-11:30 pm. Entry is free for students and 5€ for non-students.

If you’re closer to the Cascais area, Rauly Rey hosts Musica Latina every Friday night at a Mexican Restaurant called El Senor.

Dancing at the Time Out Market in Lisbon, Photo provided by Paula Nogueira

3. Bachata

Bachata originated in the Dominican Republic during the early 20th century, initially regarded as the music of the rural poor. It combines African, Indigenous, and European musical elements, reflecting a rich cultural fusion. The genre was often marginalized and associated with rural backwardness by the Dominican elite.

By the 1960s, bachata began gaining popularity, with artists like José Manuel Calderón recording the first bachata songs. Its style features distinctive guitar sounds, heartfelt lyrics, and a slow, sensual rhythm. Initially, it was confined to bars and brothels, which influenced its themes of heartbreak and melancholy.

The 1990s saw Bachata’s international breakout, with artists like Aventura modernizing the genre by blending it with pop and rock elements. This evolution introduced bachata to a global audience, leading to its inclusion in mainstream music. Today, bachata is celebrated for its emotive storytelling, intricate guitar work, and danceable beats, symbolizing a genre that has transcended its humble beginnings to gain worldwide acclaim.

Lisbon has a huge bachata scene with Barrio Latino being one of the standouts, especially on weekends. Another hotspot, Havan Way, offers weekly bachata classes and social dances. For a unique experience, the outdoor events at Miradouro de Santa Catarina combine breathtaking views with bachata rhythms. These venues cater to all levels, from beginners to advanced dancers, making Lisbon a bachata lover’s paradise.

Where to Learn Bachata in Lisbon: Bachata is another dance where you are spoiled for choice in Lisbon. Jazzy Dance Studios, UDance, Academy World Dances, and Dance Factory Studios all provide bachata classes for every skill level.

Where to Dance Bachata in Lisbon: In addition to Barrio Latino in Santos on Saturday nights already mentioned above and Top Floor in Parque das Nações also on Saturday nights, the Bachata Meetup group is incredibly active and will leave you with too little time and too many parties to attend. Join this community and never spend an evening alone again. This is also a good source for different types of bachata classes. Another very active Facebook group including all the latest dance event updates (including many on the international scene) is Bachata@Lisboa.

Salsa/Merengue/Bachata Dance, COD Newsroom, Flickr

4. Forró

Forró is a popular genre of music and dance that originated in the Northeast of Brazil in the early 20th century. It encompasses various musical styles, reflecting the cultural diversity of its region of origin. The term “forró” itself was once thought to derive from the English phrase “for all,” though this theory is widely debated.

The music is characterized by its use of accordion, zabumba (a type of bass drum), and triangle. This trio creates a distinctive, lively rhythm that invites dancing. Forró’s dance style is equally engaging, featuring close partner dancing with rapid footwork and swirling movements, making it a vibrant aspect of Brazilian social gatherings.

Over time, forró has evolved into several subgenres, including baião, xote, and arrasta-pé, each with its unique characteristics but retaining the traditional forró essence. The genre has seen a resurgence in popularity, spreading beyond Brazil’s borders and gaining international recognition. Today, forró is celebrated in festivals around the world, showcasing its enduring appeal and the rich cultural heritage of Brazil.

Where to Learn Forró in Lisbon: If you’ve never been to Brazil or Portugal before, it’s likely that you may have never heard of forró, but this dance style is becoming ever more popular in Lisbon as the Brazilian community continues to grow and spread this beautiful dance around the world. The best place to learn forró in Lisbon is Espaço Baião, which is also a samba school. You can also follow them on Instagram here. Another great place to learn forró is Dança Mais by Camila Delphim in Campo de Ourique which comes highly recommended by local dancer Paula Nogueira.

Where to Dance Forró in Lisbon:

In addition to events happening at Espaço Baião, a forró social happens every Sunday at Avenida da Liberdade starting at 4 pm. From 4:30 pm-6:30 pm on Saturdays, you can also attend a forró social in Sintra.

A night out dancing in Lisbon, Photo provided by Paula Nogueira

5. Tango

Tango originated in the late 19th century in the lower-class districts of Buenos Aires, Argentina. It was a blend of African, Native South American, and European influences. Initially, it was a dance of the marginalized, but it gained popularity in the early 20th century, especially in Paris.

The style of tango is characterized by its dramatic and sensual nature. Dancers typically move in a close embrace, executing intricate footwork and leg movements. The music, often featuring a bandoneón, sets a melancholic and passionate tone.

Over time, tango evolved into various forms, including Argentine tango, Uruguayan tango, and ballroom tango. Each style has its own unique characteristics but shares the foundational elements of intimacy and emotion. Today, tango is celebrated worldwide, with numerous festivals dedicated to its preservation and innovation.

Where to Learn Tango in Lisbon: Check out the local tango schools Tango y Nada Más (R. Fernando Vaz 20B) and A Todo Tango (R. dos Fanqueiros 286). It’s best to call ahead or contact the schools via email before you stop by in person if you’d like to book a lesson. Many milongas (see in the next section) also offer basic classes just before the dance social begins.

Where to Dance Tango in Lisbon: In the tango world, a social tango dance meeting is known as a milonga, and Lisbon’s TangoLX website will keep you up to date on all of the latest milongas in Lisbon.

The Lusitango Lisbon Tango Festival takes place the last weekend of May each year and more info can be found on their Facebook page.

The Lisbon Tango Marathon will take place from September 26-30, 2024. More information can be found here.

The embrace of a tango dance, Preillumination SeTh, Unsplash

6. Hip-Hop

Hip-hop emerged in the 1970s in the Bronx, New York City, among African American and Latino youths. It started as a way to express themselves and their community’s struggles. DJing, rapping, graffiti, and breakdancing form hip-hop’s core elements.

The style of hip-hop is diverse, blending rhythm and poetry in rapping. Beats are crucial, often sampled from old funk and soul records. Graffiti and fashion also reflect hip-hop’s vibrant, expressive culture.

Over the decades, hip-hop has evolved, influencing global music, art, and fashion. It’s a platform for social commentary and activism. From its humble beginnings, hip-hop has become a powerful cultural movement.

Where to Learn Hip-Hop in Lisbon: Jazzy Dance Studios is the best place to get group hip-hop classes. Choose from locations in Santos, Entrecampos, Saldanha, or Parede, which is closer to Cascais. UDance Escola de Dança in Santos (Rua da Cintura do Porto de Lisboa, Edifício 78) is another fantastic option offering a number of hip-hop classes throughout the week.  

Where to Dance Hip-Hop in Lisbon: In Lisbon, hip-hop enthusiasts flock to Lux Frágil (Av. Infante D. Henrique a Sta Apolónia Cais da Pedra), known for its vibrant dance scene. Urban Beach (Cais da Viscondessa), with its beachside ambiance, also hosts hip-hop nights, attracting a younger crowd.

For one of the coolest hip-hop bars in Lisbon, check out o 36 on Instagram to keep up with all of their latest events. The venue is small so the vibe sometimes spills onto the streets, but hip hop fans are sure to enjoy this place. Copenhagen Bar in Chiado, while also quite a small venue, also plays hip-hop and brings in DJs on the weekends to set the scene. It is also best to follow them on Instagram to stay up to date with upcoming events.

Dancing in Lisbon, Bianca Maria, Unsplash

7. Contemporary

Contemporary dance emerged in the mid-20th century, breaking from classical ballet traditions. It emphasizes creativity and expression, blending elements from various dance styles. Originating in the United States and Europe, it sought to explore the body’s natural movement and the potential for artistic innovation.

The style of contemporary dance is fluid and versatile, characterized by its use of gravity, floor work, and improvisation. Dancers often utilize unconventional movements, challenging traditional dance norms. This freedom allows for personal expression and the exploration of complex emotions through movement.

Contemporary dance continues to evolve, influenced by cultural trends and advancements in choreography. It remains a dynamic and inclusive art form, welcoming diverse interpretations and innovative performances. Its emphasis on creativity and collaboration has made it a popular choice in both performance and educational settings.

In Lisbon, Portugal, Jazzy Dance Studios stands out for contemporary dance. Its classes cater to all skill levels. Another option is Dance Spot, known for its diverse dance offerings. Both studios are in central locations, making them easily accessible. They provide a vibrant environment for dancers to explore and refine their contemporary dance skills. Whether you’re a beginner or an experienced dancer, these studios offer a welcoming community.

Where to Learn Contemporary in Lisbon: Jazzy Dance and UDance also offer weekly contemporary classes. Companhia Nacional de Bailado offers contemporary dance master classes for dance students training to further their dance careers. Check their list of classes here.

Lisbon Dance, Sara Darcaj, Unsplash

8. Ballroom

Ballroom dance originated in the 16th century from dances held in the royal courts. It was a symbol of social status and elegance. Over time, it evolved, incorporating folk dances. This blend created a rich diversity of styles.

Ballroom dance is characterized by its grace, fluidity, and precise movements. It includes both Standard and Latin styles. Standard focuses on smoothness and elegance. Latin emphasizes rhythm and passion.

In the 20th century, ballroom dance gained global popularity. Competitions and social dances spread its appeal. Today, it remains a cherished art form. It celebrates cultural heritage and personal expression through dance.

In Lisbon, Portugal, ballroom dancers find their rhythm at Jazzy Dance Studios, renowned for its diverse classes and vibrant community. Espaço Baião specializes in Latin dances, offering a warm, inviting atmosphere. For those seeking elegance, the Vintage Club combines classic charm with modern flair, hosting regular dance nights. Each venue caters to both beginners and seasoned dancers, making Lisbon a dance haven for enthusiasts of all levels.

Where to Learn Ballroom in Lisbon: Head over to Dance Spot, which has two locations in Lisbon (R. Fernando Vaz 10B and Rua Marquês de Fronteira 76A), and be treated to a mix of classical (English waltz, tango, Viennese waltz, slow fox and quickstep) and Latin (samba, cha cha cha, rumba, paso doble and jive). In addition to learning to dance various ballroom dances, the ear will become more flexible for recognizing and appreciating music.

Where to Dance Ballroom in Lisbon: In addition to the tango meetups from the TangoLX website, ask Dance Spot for the latest dance workshops and ballroom meetups happening around the city. The Facebook group Bachata@Lisboa also includes occasional announcements about ballroom dance events.

9. Swing

Swing dance originated in the 1920s and 1930s, evolving alongside the jazz music of that era. It began in African American communities, particularly in Harlem, New York. The Lindy Hop, one of the most famous swing dances, was named after Charles Lindbergh’s “hop” across the Atlantic.

Swing dance is characterized by its lively energy and improvisational nature. Dancers often include kicks, flips, and spins, making performances visually exciting. The dance emphasizes a strong connection between partners, allowing for seamless communication through movement.

Over the decades, swing dance has diversified into various forms, including the Charleston, Balboa, and West Coast Swing. Each style has its unique flair and movements, but all maintain the joyful spirit of the original swing dances. This adaptability has helped swing dance remain popular worldwide, celebrated in dance halls and competitions to this day.

Lisbon, Portugal, is a vibrant city with a lively swing dance scene. You can dance at venues like “Espaço Baião” and “Jazzy Dance Studios”. These spots host regular social dances and classes for all levels. Additionally, “Swing Station” organizes events and workshops. Each place offers a warm, welcoming atmosphere, perfect for dancers looking to swing the night away in Lisbon.

Where to Learn Swing Dance in Lisbon: Little Big Apple is the go-to place in Lisbon for swing dance enthusiasts, offering classes and workshops for dancers of all levels. BluesSwingLisboa (R. José Estêvão 45B) is another dance school that opened in 2020 and offers classes in Lindy Hop, Charleston, Blues, and Balboa. 

Where to Swing Dance in Lisbon: Little Big Apple hosts Jam Sessions every other Saturday night from 9:30 pm-11:30 pm. Take advantage of the dance floor to dance Lindy Hop, Shag, Balboa, or Solo Jazz. Those who don’t dance or play any instrument are always welcome to enjoy the live music, have a drink, and make friends. The minimum donation is 3 at the entrance.

BluesSwingLisboa (R. José Estêvão 45B) hosts a Balboa Social every Monday night at their school. From 4:00 pm- 6:00 pm on the first Sunday of every month, you can also attend an open swing and blues dance class followed by a free dance social at Cais do Sodré train station. Check out more events from BluesSwingLisboa here

10. Pole Dance/Burlesque

Pole dance combines dance and acrobatics centered around a vertical pole. This performance art form takes roots in ancient fertility rituals and traditional Indian and Chinese circus acts. Over centuries, it evolved, blending cultural elements worldwide.

In the 1980s, pole dance gained popularity in Canada and the USA as a form of entertainment in strip clubs. This shift marked its commercial peak, diverging from its athletic and artistic origins. However, it retained its acrobatic essence and expressive potential.

Today, pole dance is recognized as a form of fitness and artistic expression. It embodies a mix of strength, flexibility, and dance, performed in various styles from exotic to contemporary. Its acceptance as a legitimate form of exercise and art highlights its dynamic evolution and versatile nature.

Sidenote: In conducting my research for this dance guide, I was surprised to discover the sheer variety and number of venues that teach pole dancing in Lisbon. As someone who has taken a pole dance class or two, I can say that pole dancing is one of the best workouts your body can get, requiring all of your muscles and a combination of rhythm, agility, and flexibility. If you haven’t tried it before, I encourage you to go for it! While it may not be a social dance, it will certainly teach you a thing or two about grit and determination.

Where to Learn Pole Dancing in Lisbon: In Lisbon, Portugal, Jazzy Dance Studios offers pole dance classes catering to all skill levels. Another option is A Pompadourette (R. Filipe Folque 1) next to Parque Eduardo VII. Brown Sugar Art ‘n’ Pole Dance Studio (Tv. Mercês 22A) in Bairro Alto trains students from all over the world and both men and women are welcome. Pole Dance Portugal offers a number of unique pole classes including Pole Sport, Pole Flow, Spinning Pole, and Low Flow. Finally, Jaya Lab not only offers pole dance but a range of other aerial arts including trapeze, rope, and aerial silks.

11. Belly Dance

Belly dance, a traditional Middle Eastern dance form, has roots stretching back to ancient civilizations. It originally served as a ritual to honor goddesses and for childbirth preparation. The dance was popularized in the West during the 19th century, particularly at the 1893 Chicago World’s Fair.

Characterized by fluid, sinuous movements, belly dance emphasizes the torso and hips. It incorporates intricate abdominal rolls, hip drops, and shimmies. The style varies by region, with Egyptian, Turkish, and Lebanese being prominent.

Over time, belly dance has evolved, blending traditional techniques with contemporary influences. It is now a global phenomenon, celebrated for both its artistic and cultural significance. Performances often feature elaborate costumes, enhancing the dance’s visual appeal and expressive nature.

Where to Learn Belly Dancing in Lisbon: Susana Amira offers belly dance classes in three different studios throughout the week in Sete Rios, Lumiar, and Algés. If you’re taking your very first belly dance class, attend the 7 pm Thursday evening class. Jazzy Dance Studios in Santos (the largest of the Jazzy Dance locations in Lisbon) offers one Level 2 Fusion Belly Dance class. 

Street belly dancer in Lisbon, Pedro Ribeiro Simões, Flickr

Final Thoughts

Lisbon’s dance scene is as vibrant and diverse as the city itself. Whether you’re drawn to the romantic rhythms of Bachata, the energetic steps of Salsa, or the traditional charm of Portuguese folk dance, Lisbon has something for every dancer. By joining classes, attending weekly meetups, and participating in community events, you’ll not only improve your dance skills but also immerse yourself in Lisbon’s buzzing dance community.

One final resource that we’d like to leave with you is Portal da Dança, which provides many different dance types and dance schools all in one place for the major cities in Portugal.

If you’re looking for a new way to connect in the city, put on your dancing shoes and check out one of Lisbon’s hundreds of dance classes. 

Dancing down Pink Street, Karsten Winegeart, Unsplash

Casa dos Bicos – Saramago’s Literary Haven and a Historical Landmark

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José Saramago was a pillar of Portuguese culture. It doesn’t matter whether you’re here for the love of books or not… Anyone passionate about Portugal and its culture is automatically drawn to one of the most prominent personalities in the country’s literary landscape – José Saramago.

In 2007, the winner of the 1998 Nobel Prize for Literature founded the José Saramago Foundation. Today, its headquarters are in the upper floors of Casa dos Bicos. The building, however, does not date from 2007. Its story takes us back to the 16th century, pinpointing some pivotal events in the history of Portugal.

As such, we’re warmly inviting you to prepare a coffee, choose the most comfortable chair, and enjoy today’s reading! We’ll take you on a beautiful journey through the history of Casa dos Bicos. Besides serving as a sanctuary for Jose Saramago’s work, it is an important historical landmark, and we’re here to tell you why!

Casa dos Bicos – History

Before being established as the headquarters of the José Saramago Foundation, Casa dos Bicos had undergone multiple changes over the centuries.

According to Sistema de Informação para o Património Arquitectónico (the Portuguese collection of details about the country’s architectural patrimony), the history of Casa dos Bicos begins in 1521, when the territory where the building is located was likely owned by Afonso de Albuquerque, a Portuguese general, admiral, and statesman.

Allegedly, he owned either buildings or territories in the area. At the time, however, Casa dos Bicos, as it’s known today, did not exist yet.

In 1521, Albuquerque traveled to Italy accompanied by Infanta Beatrice of Portugal, a Portuguese princess by birth. He stayed in Italy until 1523. During these years, Albuquerque had enough time to fall in love with the new Renaissance architectural trends. The building that captivated him the most was Palazzo dei Diamanti, a Renaissance palace in Ferrara, Emilia Romagna, Italy. Its facade consists of thousands of diamond-shaped pyramids.

Casa dos Diamantes

Returned to Portugal, Albuquerque started working on his own diamond house, having been inspired by the awe-striking building in Ferrara – he named it Casa dos Diamantes. He planned to combine both Italian Renaissance and Portuguese Manueline decorative elements.

Two hundred years later, Casa dos Diamantes was still there. The 1755 Lisbon earthquake, which destroyed much of the city, damaged parts of the building as well, but it was still standing. The earthquake almost completely destroyed the facade facing Rua Afonso de Albuquerque.

Over the years, the building was partially reconstructed. In 1872, it was sold at public auction, then returned to the Albuquerque family, then sold again to a fishmonger who used it as a warehouse for salted codfish.

It was only in the 1960s that the municipal council of Lisbon acquired Casa dos Diamantes, which was then known as Casa de Goa. The building was to be reconstructed and named Casa dos Bicos. The council’s goal was to use it as a museum. However, things didn’t go as smoothly as expected, considering that parts of the building that had been destroyed during the earthquake were still in ruins. As such, the restoration took decades.

In 2012, Casa dos Bicos was established as the headquarters of the José Saramago Foundation. It is now considered the Jose Saramago Museum and is a major tourist attraction in Lisbon.

4 Reasons to Visit Casa dos Bicos, the José Saramago Museum

Are you planning a trip to Lisbon? If so, you’re probably going over the top attractions in the city, trying to decide which ones deserve to be on your must-visit list. Well, we’re here to convince you that Casa dos Bicos should definitely find its way on your trip schedule!

Keep on reading to discover why we’re so sure you’ll enjoy it!

1. Casa dos Bicos Architecture

The beauty of Casa dos Bicos doesn’t lie only in its literary importance linked to Jose Saramago. Its rich history and unique architecture featuring the famous Portuguese Manueline style make it an iconic building in Lisbon.

Casa dos Bicos is a rectangular building with a tiled roof. Its main facade, which faces the south, is of incredible beauty! You don’t have to be an expert in architectural styles to delve into the facade’s decorations! It is adorned with diamond-shaped protrusions which, put together, form a fascinating pattern.

The floors are differentiated by frames running vertically along the facade. The windows exhibit two styles – simple rounded-arch windows and curvilinear windows featuring Manueline elements. Besides the diamond-shaped protrusions, visitors immediately notice the windows’ irregularity in terms of both size and placement. These elements only add to Casa dos Bicos’ charm!

Casa dos Bicos. Photo by Miguel Alcântara (Unsplash)

2. Casa dos Bicos, the José Saramago Foundation

As mentioned, Casa dos Bicos is primarily known as the headquarters of the José Saramago Foundation (keep reading to learn what else you can see in the building; you’ll definitely be intrigued!).

The Foundation was established by Jose Saramago himself in 2007. The author aimed to create a cultural center that promoted contemporary literature. Jose Saramago was also trying to defend the environment and spread the Universal Declaration of Human Rights.

“In July 2008, a protocol for the granting of Casa dos Bicos, in Lisbon, was signed for the headquarters of the José Saramago Foundation, where it will continue to intensify and consolidate the objectives set out in its Declaration of Principles, opening doors to living projects of cultural unrest and transformative proposals for society.”

Saramago, Jose

As such, Casa dos Bicos now stands as a major cultural center in Lisbon and a meeting point for Portuguese and foreign artists. The Jose Saramago Museum hosts regular cultural events. For example, from the 25th of January till the 24th of February 2024, there was a photography exhibition displaying the work of Márcia Lessa entitled Punctum. Besides this, the Foundation hosted over ten other events scheduled for February 2024.

In short, we’re sharing these details to emphasize the following: whenever you visit Lisbon, you’ll likely have the opportunity to attend at least one event at Casa dos Bicos. This way, you won’t only enjoy the building’s architecture and history but also immerse yourself in a local, authentic, culturally-enriched atmosphere.

3. An Ode to Jose Saramago

Now, that’s a reason that will make book lovers add Casa dos Bicos to their must-visit list! Naturally, visiting the Foundation’s headquarters is, in itself, a highly insightful experience.

However, the permanent exhibition dedicated to José Saramago makes the visit truly unique! It has on display international editions of his books, personal notes, newspaper clippings, and videos of his interviews. In addition, visitors can also see the author’s manuscripts and typescripts, as well as letters he sent to or received from friends and other writers.

In short, the Jose Saramago Museum is any bibliophile and writer’s dream! Is there a better way to explore Saramago’s universe than in a center founded by the author himself?

Jose Saramago in 2006. Photo by Mario A. P. (Flickr)

4. The Archaeological Center

While the upper floors of Casa dos Bicos are reserved for the Jose Saramago Foundation, the ground floor is dedicated to an archaeological center.

Over the years, multiple teams of archaeologists performed systematic excavations where Casa dos Bicos is located. These discoveries revealed remains from the Roman and Moorish periods.

The center has on display parts of Late Roman walls. You’ll also have the opportunity to see Late Roman cetariae, meaning elements of a Roman fish production unit, including a Roman tank used to preserve fish.

Casa dos Bicos – How to Get There and Ticket Information

Casa dos Bicos is located on Rua dos Bacalhoeiros, 10 in Lisbon. It is very close to Praça do Comércio. In fact, it would take you only about six minutes to arrive there by foot (or slightly more, considering how hilly Lisbon is!).

If you’re coming from a different part of the town, you can take the following public transport lines:

  • The Blue metro line will take you to Terreiro do Paço station
  • Buses: 728, 735, 759, 794
  • Trams: 12E, 28E

Casa dos Bicos is open from Monday to Saturday, from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. The last entry is at 5:30 p.m.

The standard ticket costs 3 EUR. There’s an option for families that costs 8 EUR, whereas students will pay only 2 EUR. Children up to 12 years old don’t need a ticket.

Additionally, the Museum of Lisbon offers a joint ticket of 6 EUR that includes Pimenta Palace, Saint Anthony, Roman Theatre, and Casa dos Bicos. You can use the ticket for up to two months after purchasing it.  

Casa dos Bicos also offers individual guided tours, which cost only 6 EUR. However, these must be scheduled with the Foundation beforehand.

Casa dos Bicos. Photo by Vitor Oliveira (Unsplash)

Other Must-Visit Places for Jose Saramago Fans

If Jose Saramago’s books have earned a special place in your heart, you should definitely consider the options listed below!

1. Azinhaga, Portugal

Jose Saramago was born in Azinhaga, Portugal. It’s a village in the Santarém District. Soon after his birth, Saramago’s family moved to Lisbon. Nonetheless, Saramago regularly returned to Azinhaga to visit his grandparents.

In his autobiography, Memories of My Youth, Saramago shares interesting details about the village. He recollects precious memories of his grandparents, who played an important role in shaping his character.

The author once said that his grandfather spoke of “legends, apparitions, terrors, unique episodes, old deaths, scuffles with sticks and stones, the words of our forefathers, an untiring rumor of memories that would keep me awake while at the same time gently lulling me.” Without a doubt, the time spent in Azinhaga tremendously contributed to Saramago’s future works.

As such, visiting this village will complete your trip to discovering Saramago’s universe. Once you arrive, make sure to visit the Jose Saramago Foundation, Azinhaga branch. It is located in a former primary school. There, you’ll see the bed of Saramago’s grandparents, as well as a reconstruction of a 20th-century kitchen.

There’s also a library and a bookshop with various editions of Saramago’s books in both Portuguese and other languages. The José Saramago Foundation recommends taking one of the guided tours of the delegation that is part of the Educational Program in Azinhaga.

Azinhaga is also home to Jose Saramago’s statue, located in Largo da Praça.

2. Palace of Mafra

If you’re a Jose Saramago fan, you’ve probably already heard about or even read his most iconic novel – Baltasar and Blimunda. If you haven’t read it, we strongly recommend giving it a chance, especially before visiting Portugal.

Imagine reading a book, immersing yourself in its universe, and then having the opportunity to actually see all the places you’ve read about! This will be the case with Baltasar and Blimunda, and the next stop to have your dream come true is the Palace of Mafra!

Baltasar and Blimunda is an 18th-century love story that focuses… well, obviously, on Baltasar, a construction worker, and Blimunda, a clairvoyant. The relationship between the two is intertwined with the construction of the National Mafra Palace. It turns out that the main character, Baltasar, works at the construction site. As such, Saramago offers a detailed account of the building process of one of the country’s most prominent palaces!

The Palace of Mafra should, in itself, be at the top of your must-visit list. Its grandiosity and cultural significance are undeniable! With its Baroque and Neoclassical elements, the 220-meter-long limestone facade, the 68-meter-tall church towers, and the absolutely incredible interior that cannot be compared with anything else you’ve ever seen – how can one not visit the Palace of Mafra?!

Besides, if you can give each room a bit of context, even if fictitious, the palace becomes even more charming!

Mafra Palace Library Portugal
Mafra National Palace’s Library, Photo by Miguel Angel Crespo (Flickr)

3. Take a Literary Route

From the 3rd till the 7th of April 2024, the José Saramago Foundation organizes a route called Rota de Saramago a Lorca Resistencia e Memoria through Lisbon, Sevilla, Malaga, and Granada. They aim to bring together poets, writers, researchers, and anyone else who wants to follow the route. The Foundation advises anyone interested in taking the route to contact them at [email protected].

This, however, isn’t the only route you can take in Portugal that will trace Saramago’s steps throughout the country. The project Rota Viagem do Elefante aims at promoting literary tourism and recommends several literary routes that will immerse readers in Saramago’s universe:

  • The Fundão Route takes travelers to Fundão, more precisely to Castelo Novo, Alpedrinha, and Alcongosta, with the following recommended stops: Palácio do Picadeiro, the Jose Monteiro Municipal Archaeological Museum, Casa da Cereja, Casa do Guarda, and Serra da Gardunha
  • The Belmonte Route takes travelers to the birthplace of Pedro Álvares Cabral; visitors should check out the Medieval Castle, the Belmonte Museum of Discoveries, the Church of Sao Tiago, the Roman Villa of Quinta da Fornea, and the Centum Cellas Tower.
  • The Sabugal Route takes travelers to Sabugal and its prominent castles: The Castle of Sortelha, the Castle of Sabugal, the Alfaiates Castle, the Vila Maior Castle, and Vila do Touro Castle.
  • The Guarda Route takes travelers to Guarda, the highest city in continental Portugal, and its historical and cultural landmarks.
  • The Mêda Route takes travelers to Mêda, a city in the Guarda district adorned with the Castle of Marialva.
  • The Pinhel Route takes travelers to the Village of Cidadelhe (which Saramago calls the heel of the world), the Faia Brava Natural Reserve, and Pinhel.
  • The Almeida Route takes travelers to Vila de Almeida in Guarda, where they can delight in its breathtaking landscapes and the town’s Castle built in the 17th century.
  • The Figueira de Castelo Rodrigo Route takes travelers to one of Portugal’s most charming tourist villages, Figueira de Castelo Rodrigo, with Christ the King Statue being its most iconic landmark.

The locations recommended by the Rota Viagem do Elefante are linked to Saramago’s Journey to Portugal and The Elephant’s Journey. For further details about the routes and local events, visit the project’s official website.

The journey is never over. Only travellers come to an end. But even then they can prolong their voyage in their memories, in recollections, in stories. When the traveller sat in the sand and declared: “There’s nothing more to see” he knew it wasn’t true. The end of one journey is simply the start of another. You have to see what you’ve missed the first time, see again what you already saw, see in the springtime what you saw in the summer, in daylight what you saw at night, see the sun shining where you saw the rain falling, see the crops growing, the fruits ripen, the stone which has moved, the shadow that was not there before. You have to go back to the footsteps already taken, to go over again or add fresh ones alongside them. You have to start the journey anew. Always. The traveller sets out once more.

– José Saramago, Journey to Portugal

Taylor Swift Is Coming to Lisbon: Here’s Everything You Need to Know!

The Eras Tour is Taylor Swift’s sixth concert tour. It started on March 17, 2023, in Glendale, Arizona, and is scheduled to end on December 8, 2024 in Vancouver, Canada. As part of the Eras Tour, Taylor will play two shows in Lisbon, Portugal on May 24 and May 25, 2024. It will come as no surprise that both shows sold out almost immediately. With 64,642 fans coming to see Taylor perform at a concert that lasts for almost 3.5 hours, here are some tips and tricks to ensure that you have the best experience at Taylor’s concert!

Taylor Swift’s Eras Tour, Paolo Villanueva, Flickr

Where will Taylor Swift’s concert take place in Lisbon?

Taylor Swift is set to perform at Estádio da Luz, also known as Estádio do Sport Lisboa e Benfica (Avenida Eusébio da Silva Ferreira, Lisboa, 1500-313). This is a multi-purpose stadium that is primarily used for association football home games of Portuguese club Benfica, the stadium’s owner. There are seats for every concertgoer, so you will not have to worry about being stuck in a standing-room-only section.

What time does the Eras Tour start?

The doors to Estádio da Luz open at 4:30 p.m. on both May 24 and May 25, 2024. Paramore is scheduled to start at 7:00 pm, and Taylor will start performing at 8:00 pm. The show is scheduled to end between 11:15 pm and 11:30 pm. Each Eras Tour performance typically lasts for just under 3.5 hours. Taylor usually sings 44 songs grouped into 10 distinct acts that portray her different albums. No performance is exactly the same as there are often bonus songs that Taylor adds in and some outfits that will also change with each show.

Taylor Swift’s Eras Tour: Reputation, Paolo Villanueva, Flickr

Who is set to perform as the opening act for Taylor Swift in Lisbon?

The American rock band Paramore is set to open for Taylor Swift for the UK and EU legs of her Eras Tour in summer 2024. This includes Lisbon! Paramore lead vocalist Hayley Williams has been a long-time friend of Taylor, with both breaking into the music industry around the same time and still going strong today.

What is the best way to get to Taylor Swift’s Lisbon concert venue?

This is perhaps the most important advice that we can give you about attending Taylor’s concert in Lisbon. Take the metro and get to the area early. We repeat. Take the metro, in this case, the blue line (Linha Azul), to one of two different stations. The closest metro station to Estádio da Luz is Colégio Militar/Luz station, which is about a 10-minute walk away. You can also alight at Alto dos Moinhos station, which is about the same distance away. When things get crowded, the Lisbon Metro is your best bet to get somewhere on time in the city. Traffic can slow to a crawl in Portugal’s capital city when everyone is trying to get to the same place, so we highly recommend the metro.

If you have a contactless credit card, you can actually tap in using sensors at the metro ticket gates at your starting station and tap out at the gates at your final station. This may be tricky to do with a group if there is only one credit card in the group. In this case, you will need to pass your credit card back over the gate to get multiple people through the gates, and make sure you also all tap out. You can also buy Navegante metro cards at any Metro ticket machine in advance and ensure that each person has at least 5€ loaded onto the card to get to the Eras Tour and back.

Taylor Swift’s Eras Tour: Folklore, Paolo Villanueva, Flickr

The Metro, under normal operating conditions, doesn’t close until 1:00 am every day, including weekends and public holidays. This should be plenty of time to also use the Metro on the way back to your accommodation.

If you would rather take a taxi or use a rideshare service, make sure to arrive to the venue way in advance. The best rideshare apps to use in Lisbon are Bolt, Uber, and FREENOW. Bolt is usually slightly cheaper while FREENOW also has the ability to call taxis from the app.

In Lisbon, during busy periods, it is not uncommon for drivers to drop rides at the last minute or take much longer to arrive than the app first calculates. This can be extremely frustrating when you’re trying to get somewhere quickly, which is why I recommend the metro.

There are also public buses available which can also be used with the Navegante cards. If you prefer to take a bus, there are several routes available, including 726, 729, 765, 767, 786, 750, and 799. Buses generally run until 1:00 am.

Will the show go ahead if it rains?

The Eras Tour will play rain or shine. The only exception would be if there is severe weather that could impact the safety of the performers and concertgoers. Please follow staff instructions and venue screens in these situations. For your information, the venue is mostly covered except for the stadium’s center. Keep an eye on the weather on the concert day and prepare accordingly. You may want to pack an easily packable plastic poncho. As this might be hard to find in Lisbon, bring one with you if you are coming from overseas.

Final Tips for the Best Taylor Swift Eras Tour Experience!

Although the doors open at 4:30 pm, we recommend arriving to the concert venue area at around this time and having an early dinner at Colombo Mall (Centro Comercial Colombo), which is adjacent to the Colégio Militar/Luz Metro Station. Colombo is the largest mall in Lisbon, with over 400 shops including a large food court on the third floor. You can take your pick from a large number of restaurants in the mall at affordable prices, and the mall is so close to the concert venue that you can easily walk over after your meal.

Taylor Swift’s Eras Tour: The Red Era, Paolo Villanueva, Flickr

Be sure to also have a few snacks with you to get you through the long concert and make sure to stay hydrated throughout the event. It can get quite hot in Lisbon at the end of May, but evenings can also get a little chilly.

  • Book your accommodation as soon as possible! Don’t wait until the last minute, as hotels in Lisbon can get notoriously expensive when the city gets crowded. We recommend the Rossio, Chiado, or São Sebastião areas for the best mix of easy access to the metro to get to the concert, along with convenient connections to other parts of the city. Remember, when the city gets crowded, the metro is your friend! If the metro is not working or there is a citywide strike, which can happen from time to time, have a plan B. This will probably involve getting to the venue even earlier or taking the bus, which generally doesn’t strike as often as metro and train services. There is always the taking a taxi option. Having a plan B is most important. This is why we feel it is best to get to the venue early, relax at Colombo Mall, and then head over to the stadium when you’re ready.
Taylor Swift’s Eras Tour: The Folklore Set, Paolo Villanueva, Flickr
  • Wear comfortable shoes. You are likely to be standing for more than 4 hours for the Eras Tour experience including Paramore’s performance. It’s important to be as comfortable as possible.
  • Don’t bring selfie sticks, lights, or professional photo equipment or cameras. These are not permitted in the stadium.  These are not permitted at the concert.   
  • Bring ear plugs. You may not need them, but it’s better to have some on hand than not have them but wish that you did.
  • Bring napkins or toilet paper in case the toilets run out. This is going to be a sold-out show and you may find yourself without toilet paper. Plan ahead and bring your own.
  • Download or take a screenshot of your concert tickets so you have them in case Wifi or phone service is difficult to access at the concert venue.
  • Make bracelets in advance to bring to the concert and hand out to others! This is one of the best parts about coming to a Taylor Swift concert besides the lady herself and you don’t want to miss it!
  • Wear your most amazing Taylor-inspired outfit! This is your time to shine and maybe even get Taylor to notice you. So go on. Be as creative as you want. Have fun and enjoy the show!

There are less new companies and more insolvencies in Portugal

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Last month, in Portugal, the number of insolvencies increased and the number of new companies being incorporated decreased. When compared to the same period last year, there were more companies closing than companies being created.

According to the article published by ECO Sapo, the number of new companies was not enough to make up for the number of insolvencies. The only sector that managed to have a positive ratio was ‘construction’.

374 companies filed for insolvency (58 more than last year, which accounts for an 18% increase). This number confirms the tendency that was observed during 2023. The data reveals that the focus of the insolvencies is on the industrial sector, especially the ‘textile’ and ‘fashion’ sectors.

However, although the number of insolvencies in February was higher than last year’s, the total number of insolvencies in January and February, together, is smaller than last year’s period, which is a good sign. There were 20% less insolvencies in 2024 than in 2023.

When it comes to the incorporation of new companies, there were 5.1% fewer new companies in 2024, than in the same time last year (January and February). As referred to above, the only sector that witnessed an increase in the number of new companies was ‘construction’. Contrarily, the sectors that took the biggest hit were ‘transportation’ and ‘corporate services’.

Portugal elections: Center-right wins and far right party quadruples seats

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In the closely contested parliamentary election in Portugal on March 10, the center-right Democratic Alliance, led by Luis Montenegro, claimed victory with 99% of votes counted (four seats are still unknown from voters abroad). The Socialist Party is now the second-largest, with Chega following after quadrupling its seats in the Assembly of the Republic. 

What are the legislative elections in Portugal for?

The legislative elections, which usually, in Portugal, take place every four years (except in exceptional cases like now, with what happened some months ago with the resignation of the Prime Minister), allow voters to elect deputies that will represent them at the Assembly of the Republic, and who have the power to legislate.

The Assembly of the Republic is what constitutes the Portuguese Parliament. It is a sovereign organ elected by personal, direct, secret, and universal vote, similar to what happens with the President of the Republic. The Assembly of the Republic has the power to supervise the Government and State administration, to ensure compliance with the Constitution and laws, and to legislate, exclusively, on specific matters.

There are 230 seats in the Assembly of the Republic, which will be taken by the deputies of the existing political parties, according (proportionally) to the result of the elections. Note, however, that, even though the voters end up choosing deputies, they do not do so directly. Electors vote on plurinominal lists of political parties and/or coalitions, which may also have independent candidates.

Note, also, that there are 22 electoral circles. 20 correspond to the national territory, and 2 to the Portuguese emigrant communities (1 for Europe, and 1 for outside of Europe). The 20 electoral circles corresponding to the national territory decide 226 seats, and the other 2, 4 seats.

2024 Election Results

March 10 was voting day. The Portuguese voted, and the results for the 20 electoral circles of the national territory are already known.

  • The Democratic Alliance (center-right coalition formed by the Social Democratic Party, the Popular Party, and the Portuguese Monarchical Party) got 29,49% of the votes and 79 seats at the Assembly of the Republic.
  • The Socialist Party (former ruling party) got 28,66% of the votes and 77 seats.
  • CHEGA (far-right) got 18,06% of the votes and 48 seats, four times more than in the last elections.
  • The Liberal Initiative (right wing) got 5,08% of the votes and 8 seats.
  • The Left Block (BE – left wing) got 4,46% of the votes and 5 seats.
  • The Unitary Democratic Coalition (CDU – left-wing coalition) got 3,3% of the votes and 4 seats.
  • The Free Party (Livre – left wing) got 3,26% of the votes and 4 seats, making it the party on the left with the most growth. 
  • People-Animals-Nature got 1,93% of the votes and 1 seat.

226 seats are already taken, and the results show a clear will of the people to switch to center-right, after years of a center-left government. Although there are still four seats available, which will depend on the results of the two electoral circles corresponding to the foreign communities, experts do not believe that the current scenario can change.

According to the Ministry for Internal Administration, the official results (of the 22 electoral circles) will only be known on the 25th of March. When that happens, the elections are officially over and the Portuguese President of the Republic will move forward with the process. 

Considering the results and the positions of the political parties, the president will choose the person he believes has the best chance to form a Government capable of guaranteeing the necessary degree of stability. Such a person, after accepting the invitation, will be the new Portuguese Prime Minister, who will form the new Portuguese Government.

Looking for the Iberian Lynx at Serra da Malcata, a Guide

Despite being located in the center of the country, the Serra da Malcata Nature Reserve is one of the most remote places in Portugal. It has practically no paved roads and there are no villages within the reserve, although there are several on its edge, such as Vale do Espinho, Malcata, and Meimoa. What’s more, it’s clearly a very little-visited part of the country. It’s possible, in high season, to take a three-hour walk and not pass anyone…

And that’s exactly why I love this region so much. Pristine landscapes, away from the crowds and where the fauna and flora are able to prosper make the Malcata an incredible place to escape to and just disconnect, even during peak seasons. This unspoiled nature reserve offers a unique opportunity to reconnect with the essence of Portugal, allowing visitors to experience a sense of solitude seldom found in more frequented destinations.

The Serra da Malcata Nature Reserve

Created in 1981, the Malcata reserve covers 16,348 hectares and stretches across the municipalities of Sabugal and Penamacor, bordering Spain to the east, namely the Serra da Gata. This reserve was created mainly to protect the Iberian Lynx, which is considered the most endangered feline in the world and the most endangered carnivore in Europe.

The Malcata Nature Reserve is marked by the absence of housing and almost no paved roads, allowing nature to take its course. The mountains are completely covered in forest, particularly riparian woodland and areas of Mediterranean scrub. The most common tree species are the strawberry tree, the black oak, the maritime pine, and the holm oak.

The reserve also has a number of watercourses, the most important of which are the Coa, Bazágueda, and Ribeira da Meimoa. The Coa River rises slightly to the north of the reserve and acts as a border for a few kilometers. The Ribeira da Meimoa rises in the mountains and its reservoir is at the western end of the reserve. Finally, the Bazágueda River, a tributary of the Erges, which in turn flows into the Tagus.

Looking for the Iberian Lynx

Iberian Lynx
An Iberian Lynx is a rare sight as their fur blends perfectly with their habitat. Photo by vivtony00 (Flickr).

If there’s one thing Malcata is famous for, it’s the lynx – this mythical animal that is also the symbol of the nature reserve. The Malcata lynx is the Portuguese Loch Ness monster but with one big difference: many more people claim to have seen the Scottish monster than the Malcata lynx.

Jokes aside, spotting the lynx in Malcata will be a very complicated or even impossible mission, since there have been no recorded sightings of lynx for decades. In other words, there are many reasons to go to the Serra da Malcata, but don’t count on seeing the lynx there.

About the Iberian Lynx

The Iberian Lynx (Lynx Pardinus) is the only carnivore endemic to the Iberian Peninsula and is a beautiful animal with furry ears, long legs, a short tail, and a mottled brown/yellow color. But the most striking features are its fur collar, which looks more like a beard, and the tuft of black hair on top of its triangular ears.

With a length of between 85 and 110 centimeters, a height of up to 60 centimeters, and a weight of up to 27 kg, the Iberian lynx is a relatively small animal, much smaller than the Eurasian lynx. In short, it looks like a “small elf leopard”.

The Iberian lynx likes quiet places with little human presence and dense undergrowth where it can hunt wild rabbits and hares. For this reason, Malcata would be an excellent place for them to be.

The Fauna of Serra da Malcata

The lynx was the main reason for the creation of the reserve, but it covers much more than just the Iberian lynx. While it’s practically impossible to see the lynx, it is quite possible to see some of the other animals that make up the diverse fauna of this Nature Reserve, such as the black vulture, the black stork, otters, and even wild boars. There are other animals that are rarer or more difficult to see, but which are also present in Malcata, such as the wildcat, the red fox, the gineta, and the red squirrel.

During your visit, you’ll have the opportunity to see a red fox crossing the road, which might come as a great surprise given how elusive they usually are. You’ll also be able to see griffin, the huge, vulture-like birds in flight. Anyway, for those who enjoy the adventure of seeing animals in the wild, the Malcata reserve is one of the best places to visit in Portugal.

How to visit the Serra da Malcata

Although the reserve is by no means a very touristy place – it was only visited by 2,253 people in 2017 – there are several ways to explore it, to get to know its various facets.

Going to the Malcata Reserve by Car

There are very few paved roads within the reserve, in fact, I only know of two. One runs from the village of Malcata through the reserve for a few kilometers and leaves at a bridge over the River Roa near Quadrazais. On Google Maps it’s called Rua Carvalheira de Jorge. Honestly, this is perhaps the least interesting part of the reserve, but if you want to go through the reserve, it’s a possibility.

The other road is the one that enters from the south, a few kilometers after Meimoa. This road is sometimes marked as the N332, and goes well into the reserve, with some very beautiful places.

The problem is that it eventually stops being asphalted and turns to dirt. The surface isn’t bad, but some might decide not to risk it and don’t continue along it. However, you’ll often see cars that pass easily. So, if you decide to risk it, you probably won’t have any problems, and if you have a 4×4 or SUV then it’s really peaceful.

All the other roads are dirt roads, and the quality of the surface varies. So I wouldn’t really recommend going in a normal vehicle, although you’ll probably be able to pass on many of them.

Going to the Malcata Reserve on Foot

The best way to get to know Malcata is on foot. You can park at one of the park’s entrances, or when the paved road ends and simply walk. This way you’ll have time to explore its beauty and the likelihood of seeing some of its fauna and flora increases greatly.

There are some marked trails, so you can do them without too much trouble. However, I advise you to take your GPS with you in case you get lost or hit a bad trail.

Things to do in Serra da Malcata

Canoeing, Kayaking, or SUP

Stand Up Paddle
Stand Up Paddle has become a very popular activity all around Portugal in the past few years. Photo by Guillaume Bonastre (Flickr).

The dam on the Meimoa Stream has created an artificial lake that allows for various water activities. If you like canoeing, kayaking, or SUP (stand-up paddle), this is an extraordinary place due to its natural beauty, climate, and crystal-clear waters. You can climb up the dam and discover the reserve from the water.

Obviously, this activity is much more enjoyable in the summer, when temperatures are extremely high. Even if you don’t have the equipment, you can rent canoes and boards at Meimão Beach, on the right bank of the Meimoa reservoir.

Go to Meimão Beach

Meimão Beach is on the right bank of the Ribeira Meimoa reservoir, relatively close to the dam. This is one of the nicest river beaches in the country. It has a small sandy area and a much larger one with grass, trees, and plenty of shade. You can understand why it’s a very popular beach in the region, but given its size, it’s unlikely to be overcrowded.

Unsurprisingly, on these dam river beaches, this beach has a floating pool (with two different depths) and a diving board. There is also a small bar serving light meals, drinks, and ice creams.

Finally, as mentioned above, you can rent kayaks, paddleboards, or pedalos here to make the most of the dam’s water mirror.

Hiking Trails

Although they are not widely advertised, some signposted walking routes allow you to make the most of the natural beauty of the reserve and explore the forests and woodlands of the mountains. These include:

Espírito Santo Chapel Trail – In the northern part of the reserve by the River Coa, in Quadrazais. An easy circular route of just 4.1km.

Salgueirinho Trail – In the southern part of the reserve, passing by Quinta da Bazaguedinha. An easy circular route of 7.1km.

Sobreiral Trail – Along the Meimoa dam, inside the reserve. Circular route, moderate difficulty (with steep ascents and descents), 8.9km.

Of these, the Sobreiral Trail is particularly interesting as it takes you through areas of deep forest, and when you reach the top of the climb the view is phenomenal. On the other hand, it is also possible to stop along the way and take a refreshing dip on the shore of the reservoir.

Mountain Biking

Mountain Biking
Mountain Biking is a great way to explore the Serra da Malcata. Photo by TRAILSOURCE.COM (Flickr).

The Serra da Malcata is also a suitable place for mountain biking. In fact, all those dirt roads, some steeper than others, call you to go cycling. It’s possible to do routes of varying levels of difficulty, including some of those indicated above for trails.

If you’re used to long drives, you can take the paved road that starts south of the reserve and leaves at the Meimoa dam. There’s a long climb (always on asphalt), but it’s made up for by the fun descent on dirt to the reservoir, and the relatively flat final part along the shore. If you don’t want to make such a big effort, you could, for example, leave the car by the dam and always take the path that follows the bank of the dam, and only do the flat part of this path.

Going Off-Road in a 4×4

Almost everything you can do by bike, you can also do by 4×4. If you have one of these vehicles, it will certainly be a fun and much less stressful way to get to know the Serra da Malcata Nature Reserve. It’s also a way for less mobile people to get to know this natural wonder of Portugal.

In principle, any tall vehicle will be able to pass on the red roads on the reserve map. Naturally, avoid making unnecessary noise and adopt a defensive driving style. After all, this is a nature reserve, not a rally stage.

Visit the Village of Malcata

The village of Malcata, after which the mountains and the reserve are named, is on the outskirts of the reserve, but it’s well worth a visit. It’s a traditional village, with some typical schist houses and others that are more modern. In terms of heritage, one must mention the parish church, the community oven, the clock tower, and the cheese factory.

Despite having far fewer inhabitants than 60 years ago, this is still a lively village with over 300 inhabitants. It also has a very pleasant river beach on the River Coa, on the reservoir of the Sabugal dam, so it could be a good alternative to the river beach at Meimão.

Debate About the Origin of Penamacor’s Name

Penamacor Portugal
Penamacor is one of my favorite places in Portugal. It’s old, well-preserved, and quiet. Perfect for a weekend retreat. Photo by Pedro Nuno Caetano (Flickr).

The name of this village, according to one of the legends, is said to have originated from a notorious bandit named Macôr, who is believed to have lived here. It is said that this outlaw resided in a cave called Penha. Over time, the name underwent changes and became known as Pena, thus the town came to be known as Penha de Macôr or Pena Macôr.

According to another version, a fierce battle between the villagers and bandits resulted in so much bloodshed and of such an evil hue that the village became known as Penha de má cor, meaning “Penha of bad color.” Yet another account suggests that there were two settlements in this area, both located on hills, Pena de Garcia and Pena Maior. Due to the alteration of the Castilian pronunciation, Magor became Macor, leading to the formation of Pena Macor. Regardless of the name’s origin, one thing is certain – it represents one of the most picturesque and charming villages in the country.

Where to Stay in the Malcata Reserve?

It is not possible to stay in the reserve, as there are no villages or lodgings within it. However, there are some villages on the outskirts with various lodgings, as well as the towns of Sabugal and Penamacor.

Meimoa

Meimoa turns out to be one of the natural destinations for those who want to visit the Malcata reserve. It’s very close to the southern entrance and is a quiet village with a beautiful river beach.

Meimão

In the Meimão bathing area, there are bungalows that can be rented to stay overnight. These have a kitchenette and two bedrooms, making them suitable for couples, families, and small groups.

It’s a great option for those who want to be as close to the nature reserve as possible, but the mobile network and Internet can be problematic here.

Over and Out

The Serra da Malcata Nature Reserve offers a rare and precious escape into Portugal’s untouched wilderness. Its remoteness and lack of infrastructure contribute to a unique sense of solitude, making it an ideal destination for those seeking respite from the usual tourist hubs.

While the quest for the elusive Iberian Lynx may prove challenging, the reserve unveils a tapestry of wildlife, including black storks, otters, and wild boars, creating a haven for nature enthusiasts. Beyond the rich fauna, the landscape itself is a spectacle, adorned with lush riparian woodlands, Mediterranean scrub, and towering mountains, providing a haven for both casual hikers and passionate nature lovers alike.

For those looking to explore this hidden gem, there are various ways to immerse oneself in the beauty of Serra da Malcata. Whether navigating the few paved roads by car, discovering the marked hiking trails on foot, or embarking on thrilling mountain biking adventures, the reserve caters to a range of interests. Water enthusiasts can also indulge in canoeing, kayaking, or paddleboarding at the Meimoa reservoir, creating a serene contrast to the rugged terrain.

As day turns to night, visitors can explore the vibrant village of Malcata, with its traditional charm and architectural treasures. However, it’s essential to note that accommodations within the reserve itself are scarce. Nevertheless, nearby villages like Meimoa offer cozy lodgings, providing an opportunity to experience the region’s unique blend of natural beauty and rural authenticity.

In essence, the Serra da Malcata Nature Reserve is a testament to the delicate balance between conservation and exploration. Its unspoiled landscapes and diverse ecosystems beckon those who seek a genuine connection with nature, inviting them to witness Portugal’s wild heart and soul. As you plan your visit, embrace the simplicity and authenticity of this remarkable region, allowing its untouched beauty to leave an indelible mark on your journey.

The Women Who Made Portugal

To celebrate International Women’s Day, it’s the perfect time to shine a spotlight on the incredible Portuguese women who’ve made their mark on history. These women weren’t just ordinary—they were trailblazers, rebels, and all-around awesome individuals who refused to be held back by anyone or anything.

In this article, we’re diving headfirst into the lives of some of the most kick-ass Portuguese women ever. From queens to artists, scientists to activists, each one has a story that’ll make you sit up and take notice. They faced challenges, broke barriers, and left a legacy that still inspires us today.

So, get ready to raise a glass (or two) as we celebrate these extraordinary women and their unforgettable contributions to Portuguese history. It’s time to honor their achievements, cheer on their successes, and give them the recognition they truly deserve this International Women’s Day!

Teresa of Leon (1080-1130)

Public Domain

On the day of her wedding, she might have still been a minor; while he (Henry of Burgundy) was just over 25. She was the daughter of Alfonso VI of León and his ‘friend’ Ximena Muñiz, and the fifth granddaughter of Mumadona Dias, the first countess of Terra de Portucalis. And he – son of the Duke of Burgundy, great-grandson of the King of France, great-nephew of Hugo de Cluny – received her as a prize, along with the counties of Coimbra and Portucale.

From this union, three daughters were born, and Afonso, who became the first king of Portugal. When she became a widow, she named herself queen and continued her husband’s fight to conquer lands and expand his domains. For her, it made sense to unify the north of the Iberian Peninsula under her scepter. She ruled the county of Porto for 16 years, many of which with the Count of Trava at her side, both pursuing the idea of autonomy, even after being defeated by Afonso Henriques. She died two years later and was buried in the Cathedral of Braga next to her first husband, Count Henrique.

 

Teresa Henriques (1151-1218)

Gentle, manly, haughty, giving, very beautiful, slender, of good temper, one of the most beautiful women in Europe, desired by all the princes of the land… these are some of the qualifications attributed to Teresa (for the Portuguese), Matilde (for the Flemish) and Mahaut (for the French), the daughter of the first king of Portugal and Queen Mafalda of Savoy. It went back to her father and grandmother Teresa of León, the Portuguese woman who married Philip of Alsace, the count who was more powerful and wealthier than some of the kings of Europe in the 12th century.

The qualifiers seem to fit, but it’s curious to point out this kind of attribute when talking about a woman who was the co-regent of a kingdom, heir to the throne and became queen-countess, and a major obstacle to the annexation of Flanders by the French. She ruled as a widow and commanded armies, made her brother Grand Master of the Order of Hospitallers, and remarried to win another independent county, Burgundy.

Brites de Almeida (1350-?)

According to oral tradition, Brites de Almeida was a baker who lived in the Aljubarrota region during the reign of King João I. During the decisive battle between the Portuguese and Castilian forces on August 14, 1385, Brites stood out for her bravery and determination. Legend has it that while the men were fighting on the battlefield, Brites was busy baking bread in her oven. When she realized that the Portuguese soldiers were hungry and weakened, she decided to intervene in an unexpected way.

Grabbing a baker’s shovel, Brites would have attacked the Castilian invaders who were trying to sack her village. With her baker’s shovel in hand, Brites faced her enemies with courage and ferocity, helping to repel the attack and inspiring the Portuguese soldiers to resist with renewed determination. Her bravery and dedication to the Portuguese cause during the battle earned her the nickname “Baker of Aljubarrota” and the eternal admiration of the Portuguese people.

Azulejo tile image of Brites de Almeida killing Castilian soldiers. Photo by Karstenkascais (Wikipedia)

Filipa De Lencastre (1360-1415)

Granddaughter of King Edward III of England, daughter of João de Gaunt and Branca, she spent her childhood moving from land to land as her father decided to travel to better manage his wife’s estate, which was heir to the Duke of Lencastre. She came to Porto at the age of 27 to become Queen of Portugal and begin the Avis dynasty with João I. She was one of the driving forces behind the modernization of Portugal.

She would be one of the driving forces behind the modernization and expansion of the kingdom, as well as educating her children, the so-called Ínclita Geração. Feeling she was dying, she called them together and asked for three swords to give to the eldest. She asked Duarte, heir to the throne, to rule with justice and piety; Pedro, the Sevenfold, to look after the honor of women; Henrique, the Navigator, to look after men; and Isabel (future Duchess of Burgundy) to look after her younger siblings, John and Ferdinand, the Holy Infant.

Like her paternal grandmother Filipa de Hainault, her grandfather Henrique de Lencastre, and her mother, who left her an orphan at the age of nine, died of the plague. “What enigma was there in your womb that only geniuses could conceive?” wondered the poet Fernando Pessoa.

Antónia Rodrigues (1580-?)

She was born Antónia and became António to travel to North Africa. In less than 20 years, she was a girl, a boy, a grub, a rifleman on foot and on horseback, a hero, a woman, a heroine, a wife, and a mother. She was born in Aveiro, but she must have been 12 when she fled Lisbon, from her sister’s house, already with a strategy: with a few pennies she had saved, she bought a sailor’s suit and cut her hair so as to erase any feminine traits.

He then ran to the pier, where he persuaded the master of a caravel to take a helper with him. He arrived as a grumete in the Portuguese square of Mazagão, where he enlisted as a soldier. By the age of 15 or 16, he was already being called the ‘Terror of the Moors’. When a soldier’s daughter fell in love with her character, Antónia revealed her body and returned to Portugal. Here, they called her ‘Portuguese Knight’ and awarded her an annual tença for having served bravely in the kingdom’s army.

Josefa D’Óbidos (1630-1684)

The daughter of an Obidan father and an Andalusian mother, she was born in Seville at a time when the same Philip reigned in Spain and Portugal. She traveled from Seville to Óbidos when she was still a child, and from there she never went further than Alcobaça, Coimbra or Buçaco. They say she died emancipated but a maiden, ill but lucid. Throughout her life, apart from a few business ventures for which she showed wisdom, she did nothing but paint canvases and boards, engrave copper, and perhaps model clay, passionately, full of faith.

Her first known works are the engravings of Saint Catherine and Saint Joseph, done with a burin at the age of 16 when it seemed she was going to be a nun. But Josefa d’Ayala e Cabrera, the daughter of an artist, decided to follow in her father’s footsteps, combining his teachings with the spontaneity of someone who practices art without feeling influenced. At a time when it was not easy to be a woman, she did what she wanted and made history with her Baroque art.

Josefa de Obidos’ art. Public domain

Juliana Dias da Costa (1657-1734)

The 38th Viceroy of India was quite worried for a few months in 1712 – the “Mogor power” had conquered all of Hindustan up to the border of John V’s domains in Asia. But perhaps he had no reason to be. The Mongol king was considered a friend and whoever was in charge of Bahadur Shah’s harem had a Portuguese name and spoke Portuguese, as well as Persian, Latin, French, and others.

Nurtured by five Mongol monarchs, whose advice she listened to, whether in the field of medicine or diplomacy, Juliana, as well as being the superior and clinician of the imperial serralho, successfully acted as procurator for the Portuguese kingdom and served as an intermediary for the Dutch, French, and Italians, also providing expansion for the Jesuits. The daughter of a Portuguese man and the slave of an Agra princess, she was born in Bengal, where, in the 17th and 18th centuries, the Portuguese language was used by everyone to understand each other.

Antónia Pusich (1805-1883)

Antónia Pusich in 1858. Public domain

She was about 15 or 16 when she experienced her first trial by fire. She snuck out of the house to take part in a battle, ready to die. She wanted to be close to her father, to run the same risks as the governor of Cape Verde, where she was born. She would defy fear again in other circumstances, such as when she tried to save one of her husbands from death.

Married two or three times, depending on whether her life is told in the 19th century or the next, mother of five, writer, Antónia Gertrudes Pusich was the first woman to found and run a newspaper, without pseudonyms – for this reason, some argue that she was the first Portuguese journalist. Monarchist, writer, composer, and defender of women’s right to education, she said she wasn’t political but rational, but she fought political arguments until she died in Lisbon at the age of 78.

Antónia Ferreira (1811-1897)

She was born in Godim, near Peso da Régua, where she spent her childhood and adolescence. She married for family convenience to a cousin, a bohemian and womanizer, who left her a widow at just over 30 with two children, but heir to a fortune. Alone, she negotiates, controls, invests, helps the needy, takes care of her children, sues her children… and dies an octogenarian, much richer than she was born, with farms producing 1500 barrels of wine a year. She leaves a fortune valued at 5,907,323$000 réis, which includes 30 estates, well-stocked warehouses and palaces, art collections, jewelry, bonds, loans, and cash.

His demanding will – a division between his two sons and 18 grandchildren – was carried out without reservation. Her last major initiative was in 1887, when, against general opinion, she had vineyards planted at Monte Meão, a high point in the wilderness from where the famous “Barca Velha” would be produced. Many called her ‘saint’ and ‘mother of the poor’, but the name that will remain in our memories is the popular ‘Ferreirinha’.

Public domain

Queen Maria II (1819-1853)

They call her the Educator… In fact, she committed herself to raising her children, when it was customary to leave this task to someone else. Maria da Glória Joana Carlota Leopoldina da Cruz Francisca Xavier de Paula Isidora Micaela Gabriela Rafaela Gonzaga, born in Rio de Janeiro, was aware that she was living in very different times to her ancestors. In hers, those who govern must be illustrious and educated, as she had heard her father, Pedro IV, the first emperor of Brazil, say.

And she made a great effort to cultivate herself, learning above all from her third husband, Ferdinand of Saxe-Coburg-Gota-Koháry. But to reduce her to this role of ‘good mother’, as was the case until the 20th century, is unfair to a woman who was queen at the age of 7 and effectively reigned from the age of 15, during a period of great turmoil in the kingdom of Portugal, with fighting between brothers, civil war and popular uprisings. The woman who succeeded in enforcing the Constitutional Charter died at the age of 34.

Queen Maria II by John Simpson. Public domain

Luísa Holstein (1841-1909)

She was the heiress to one of the richest families in the kingdom and would not give up the management of her estate to her husband, as was the custom. She is the only female sculptor to stand out in the 19th century in Portugal. An award-winning artist at the Paris Salon, where she exhibited at the age of 43 with a 20-year-old daughter, she had many interests beyond art.

She called herself a socialist, saying that the superfluous of the rich was the patrimony of the poor, and an example of this attitude in her life is the canteen for those whose salaries were barely enough to support themselves, but who should have the right to eat a good meal in a decent, clean place. The Economic Kitchens, a work that the establishment of the Republic did not disregard, represent the most visible part of the philanthropy of Maria Luísa Domingas de Sales de Borja de Assis de Paula de Sousa Holstein (from Palmela). She was the Duchess, as they called her in Lisbon.

Adelaide Cabete (1867-1935)

She survived as a girl, working days, learning by ear, until she fell in love with a man 18 years older, modern, ready to make her his equal. Born in Elvas, the daughter of laborers, Adelaide de Jesus Damas Brazão married at 18, finished elementary school at 22, finished high school at 29 and graduated in Medicine at 33.

“The protection of poor pregnant women as a means of promoting the physical development of new generations”, was her degree thesis, in which, going beyond the boundaries of science, she proposed the creation of a law that would allow workers to rest in the last month of pregnancy, benefiting from a subsidy taken from the company’s profits, from the State and from a levy among the workers.

She proposed the creation of maternity wards, crèches, children’s homes, social solidarity institutions… a foretaste of the issues she would defend until the end of her life. Republican, feminist, Freemason, she fought for the rights of women, children, the poor, animals… she fought for an equitable and healthy society.

Adelaide Cabete. Public domain

Irene Lisboa (1892-1958)

Her name can be seen on plaques in schools, libraries, avenues, streets, squares, and squares, but few people know her work. Most of the books she wrote were published at her own expense and those published by her publisher sold very little. “Everything belongs to others/and I was always denied,” wrote the innovative pedagogue, born near Arruda dos Vinhos, forced into retirement by the dictatorship when she was just 46.

A writer of prose and poetry, whom time will impose as the forerunner of modern writing in Portugal, Irene do Céu Vieira Lisboa had been awarded a scholarship in Switzerland and there she learned how to end the monotony and repression at school by getting her pupils to learn through play. Unable to teach, she suffered in silence, writing, and seeing her newspaper articles censored by the same people who banned her from giving lectures. But she won’t give up. She will be the only woman among 34 men at the 20th-anniversary dinner of the democratic opposition magazine “Seara Nova”, in which she collaborates under a man’s name. Thirty-one years after her death, she was awarded the Order of Liberty.

Maria Lamas (1893-1983)

Baptized with the name Maria da Conceição, she was born in Torres Novas into a middle-class family, the first of the four children of Manuel Caetano da Silva and Maria da Encarnação Vassalo. She thought she was going to be a nun, but her father and marriage soon erased her mystical side. She was a journalist, writer, feminist, and fighter… She paid the price with prison and exile for defending her ideals.

And she didn’t want to be forgotten: on several occasions she told her youngest daughter not to tear up her letters because it was important to know what she was thinking. At the age of 81, he joined the Portuguese Communist Party out of a sense of consistency. She is a symbol of the struggle for the emancipation of women and for democracy. It is impossible to forget her role.

Public domain

Florbela Espanca (1894-1930)

Pulmonary embolism was what remained on her death certificate. A half-truth in death as well as in birth: the certificate stated “daughter of father incognito”. Well, the poet chose to commit suicide and everyone knew that her father was João Maria Espanca. A father who educated her, who helped her, but who would only officially recognize her 19 years after her suicide, in order to benefit from the copyright of his daughter’s great poetic work and because a few days later a bust of the poet would be inaugurated in the city of Évora, where she lived and where she had also resided.

Flor Bela Lobo, as she was known, was born in Vila Viçosa under the sign of Sagittarius. She was a bold woman who occasionally lacked the courage to go against prejudice. She died with the feeling she always had, that no one had ever liked her. Her, who had written “I want to love, to love, hopelessly”…

Florbela Espanca. Public domain

Edmée Marques (1899-1986)

“I hereby certify that Branca Edmée Marques has done very useful work in my laboratory since the beginning of November 1931,” began Marie Curie’s letter, which did not persuade the Portuguese government to extend the scientist’s scholarship. Those who took up her work made important discoveries, but the Lisbon woman was forced to return to Portugal, where women and science were worth little, even though we were already in the 20th century.

Despite having a doctorate since the age of 36, becoming director of the Radiochemistry study center at the Institute of High Culture, Curie’s insistence that she return to Paris, and her excellent marks in university career advancement competitions, she would only become a full professor in 1966, when she was 67 years old and had already contributed greatly to the country’s scientific research, especially with regard to the use of nuclear energy for peaceful purposes.

Lúcia dos Santos (1907-2005)

One of the three children who claimed to have witnessed the apparitions of Our Lady of Fatima in 1917, she is another notable figure in Portugal’s history. Born Lúcia de Jesus Rosa dos Santos in Aljustrel, a small village near Fátima, in 1907, she became a central figure in the phenomenon of the apparitions that transformed the city of Fátima into an important Catholic pilgrimage site. Together with her cousins Francisco and Jacinta Marto, Lucia claimed to have witnessed several apparitions of the Virgin Mary between May and October 1917.

The apparitions, which included messages of peace, repentance and prayer, attracted the attention of thousands of pilgrims and had a lasting impact on religious devotion in Portugal and around the world. After the apparitions, Lucia became a Carmelite nun and dedicated her life to prayer, penance, and spreading the message of Fatima. She wrote several books about her experiences and took part in countless pilgrimages and religious events related to the apparitions. Her deep devotion and faith made her a revered figure not only among Catholics but also among people of different faiths around the world.

Vieira Da Silva (1908-1992)

In 1956, Elle magazine voted her Frenchwoman of the Year. She had been living in France for some time but did not accept the distinction, pointing out that she was Portuguese, born in Lisbon. But that same year, she opted for the nationality of the country that had welcomed her.

She did so after Oliveira Salazar offered her what he had refused her almost two decades earlier, when she and her husband wanted to become Portuguese citizens and the dictator blackmailed her, making her acceptance conditional on divorce. Maria Helena Vieira da Silva had lost her citizenship when she got married on her 22nd birthday to the painter Arpad Szenes, a stateless Jew born in Hungary, the love of her life… It wasn’t until the 1970s that Portugal recognized that her talent for painting had made history.

Cesina Bermudes (1908-2001)

If she could choose her next reincarnation, she would choose a life that offered her a musical education. She believed that there were several passages on Earth to perfect the spirit and, this time, she had only dedicated herself to scientific research… she had only graduated in Medicine, specialized in Obstetrics, obtained her doctorate with 19 marks, introduced painless childbirth in Portugal, defended women’s rights, joined the Communist Party to fight Salazarism, helped to give birth to countless babies of mothers persecuted by the dictatorship that will also imprison her… In this life, which was not at all fruitful from a musical point of view, she was still interested in literature and sport. But for her, medicine was everything.

Sophia de Mello Breyner Andresen (1919-2004)

Her poetry, marked by lyrical language and deep reflection on human nature and the world around her, won her critical recognition and the affection of the public. Sophia explored themes such as freedom, justice, national identity and the female experience in her works, giving voice to a unique and profoundly humanist perspective.

In addition to her writing career, Sophia was also an active figure in Portuguese public life, getting involved in political and social issues. She was a prominent voice in opposition to the Salazar regime and a defender of human rights and freedom of expression. Sophia de Mello Breyner Andresen left a significant legacy not only as a poet, but also as a voice of conscience and resistance in times of adversity. Her poetry continues to inspire and move readers around the world, reflecting the beauty and complexity of human experience and the transformative power of art.

Sophia Mello Breyner Andresen, by Bottelho (Wikipedia)

Amália Rodrigues (1920-1999)

Singer, fado singer, theater and film actress… a ‘star’ of the 20th century. Her life has been written and rewritten. But there’s always something to tell about this woman who could have been called Maria do Carmo… about this woman who chose the day to celebrate her birthday… about this intuitive woman who didn’t feel she was a fado singer, but an artist… who said she owed her success to sadness, fear, and shyness… who said she sang by singing. … who said she had earned the right to be just Amália and not Dona Amália, as her admirers called her because they thought this showed more respect for the woman who took fado to the world and, over the course of half a century, recorded more than a hundred and a half records, appeared in a dozen films and gave countless shows. And she didn’t do more because she didn’t want to.

Amalia Rodrigues, 1969, No copyright

Natália Correia (1923-1993)

An Azorean from São Miguel, she left the island at the age of 11 and went to Lisbon to study, but did little at school. She made of life what few of her contemporaries could boast, becoming one of the great figures of the 20th century. Novelist, poet, bohemian, playwright, essayist, MP, antique store owner, bar owner… Natália de Oliveira Correia, with her scarves, long mouthpieces and great oratorical talent, stood out for her intelligence and her work.

Married four times, she never had children and said that her motherhood was universal. As a girl, she wanted to be a poet, a detective and the owner of a clandestine casino. “I look enthusiastic, exuberant, but it’s only on the outside. It’s my way of freeing myself from the tensions that people bite down on inside. On the inside, I have the immobility of an oriental idol. But I’m not cold. I’m even deeply affectionate,” she said.

Maria de Lourdes Pintasilgo (1930-2004)

“Prime Minister”, “Primess Minister” or “Prime Ministeress”? People didn’t know what to call her. No woman had ever held this position in Portugal, but she was invited to do so by the President of the Republic, who was facing a political crisis. She agreed to lead a government of men for 149 days. It may have been a short time, but it laid the foundations for a social security system for everyone, whether they worked or not. Maria de Lourdes – Pintasilgo, a surname inherited from an ancestor who was nicknamed for whistling like that bird – was a pioneer who dedicated her life to fighting for a fairer society, influenced by Christian ideals and the experience of the working priests in France.

Rosa Mota (1958-)

One of the most prominent Portuguese athletes in history, standing out mainly as a long-distance runner. Born in Porto in 1958, she rose to international prominence when she won the Chicago Marathon in 1982, becoming the first Portuguese woman to win a major marathon. The highlight of her career came in 1988, at the Seoul Olympic Games, where Rosa won the gold medal in the marathon, becoming the first Portuguese athlete to win Olympic gold in athletics. Her exceptional performance made her a true national hero and a symbol of pride for Portugal.

In addition to the Olympics, Rosa accumulated titles and records in competitions such as the European Athletics Championships and the Boston Marathon. Even after ending her competitive career, she continued to inspire young athletes in Portugal and support the development of athletics in the country.

Rosa Mota. Photo by Manuel de Sousa (Wikipedia)

Over and Out

So, let’s wrap things up, shall we? These incredible women who’ve helped shape Portugal’s history? Yeah, they’re the real MVPs! From queens ruling the roost to artists painting the town red, and from scientists breaking through glass ceilings to activists stirring up change, these ladies have left their mark like nobody’s business.

I mean, seriously, just think about it. We’ve got queens and princesses like Filipa de Lencastre and Maria II who were running the show back when women calling the shots was practically unheard of. Then there’s Amália Rodrigues, whose voice could melt hearts and inspire movements. And don’t even get me started on Cesina Bermudes or Edmée Marques – these science whizzes were making waves in labs while most of us were still figuring out how to make a decent cup of coffee!

But you know what’s really cool? It’s not just about what these women did back in the day; it’s about the trail they blazed for all of us today. Their stories remind us that no dream is too big, no challenge too tough, and no glass ceiling too thick to shatter. They’re like the OG squad goals, showing us what’s possible when you refuse to take no for an answer.

So, as we celebrate these badass women on International Women’s Day and every day, let’s raise a glass (or a cup of coffee, if that’s more your style) to their legacy. Here’s to breaking barriers, smashing stereotypes, and making the world a more inclusive and kickass place for everyone. Cheers to the women who rocked, rock, and will keep on rocking our world!

Lisbon’s Historical Movie Theaters

Fade In

Ah, the movies… Filled with glamour and thrillers, celebrities with auras brighter than the sun. They inspire us, touch us, and scare us. For me, a night out at the movies is and always will be, a special event. The smell of popcorn, the darkness of the room, the sound of the projector. There is something unique and unforgettable about that experience.

My first memory of the movies is still very vivid, even a decade and a half later. It was a Sunday afternoon and I was out with a friend from elementary school. I lived in a small town and we were out of trees to climb so we decided to stop by the movie theater to check what was playing that week. That’s right, there was only one movie a week.

I remember seeing the poster outside. It was an animated film and it had a cool warrior-girl with a massive wolf behind her. That’s all it took to convince us. And that experience is one that marked me for the rest of my life. The movie in question is, of course, Hayao Miyazaki’s Princess Mononoke, which – now I know – is nothing short of a masterpiece.

How much did that experience influence my life? Well, I studied film in college and nowadays I live in Tokyo. So, yeah, I would say that it was somewhat influential. And there was a time, before multiplexes and corporate consolidation trivialized it, when going to the movies was a truly magical experience.

Some of us still remember when people dressed up to go watch a movie. You would arrive at the theater and you would have someone escort you to your seat. And God forbid you were noisy while the movie was playing because a frowny lady with a flashlight would immediately show up to give you a shush and a stern look.

Lisbon used to be a city that breathed cinema. No matter where you went, you were bound to find a movie theater. From the dozens in Rossio and Baixa, along with the ones by the Avenida de Liberdade, all the way up to the Avenidas Novas and Saldanha area, the place was a dream for cinephiles.

But nowadays, only multiplexes survive – except for a few notable exceptions. All others have been shut down and turned into everything from churches to record stores. A majority of the dazzling buildings still survive, to serve as proof of what once were dream factories.

So join me through a journey, not only through the hilly streets of Lisbon but also through time, back to an area where mystery and adventure ruled our collective imaginations.

Cinema São Jorge

Inaugurated in 1950 by the Sociedade Anglo-Portuguesa de Cinemas, the Cinema São Jorge quickly became an icon of the Portuguese capital’s movie scene. Under the direction of architect Fernando Silva, the cinema’s bold design, with almost 2,000 seats, won the prestigious Municipal Architecture Prize that same year, unanimous recognition of its innovation and modern design, which broke with the nationalist standards that prevailed at the time.

Its striking construction stood out for its pioneering use of concrete and advanced construction techniques, allowing for innovative structural and decorative solutions. The grandiose cinema hall, originally designed with an audience, balcony, and second balcony, was a work of singular magnitude, reflecting the creative vigor of the time.

In the 1980s, it underwent renovations that resulted in the large room being subdivided into three smaller spaces. Despite the changes, the cinema maintained its status as one of the main destinations for lovers of the seventh art in Lisbon.

In 2001, the Lisbon City Council acquired it, initiating a series of interventions aimed at preserving its historical importance and revitalizing its cultural relevance. After a phase of work on the façade and interior, the cinema reopened its doors that same year.

Since 2006, the space has been the scene of intense cultural activity, hosting both national and international film festivals, as well as other high-profile events in the performing arts. Thus, Cinema São Jorge continues to play a key role in the city’s cultural scene, keeping alive the passion for cinema and the arts in Lisbon.

Cinema Sao Jorge. Photo by Miguel Teixeira

Cinema Condes

Cinema Condes, formerly known as Teatro Novo da Rua dos Condes, is an iconic cultural institution located on Avenida da Liberdade in Lisbon. Initially a theater owned by Francisco de Almeida Grandella, it was acquired by the Castello Lopes firm in 1915.

After being remodeled in 1919 to show films, the building was demolished in 1951 and replaced by a new structure designed by Raul Tojal. With a capacity for 907 spectators, it had a modern façade adorned with a bas-relief by Aristides Vaz interior decorations by José Espinho, and paintings by Fernando Santos.

The Cinema Condes was reopened in 1952, becoming an emblematic venue for the premiere of major film productions, concerts, and festivals. In 1967, due to the production of 70-millimeter films, new works were carried out, including the extension of the projection screen. However, a week after the work was completed, a fire damaged the audience area, resulting in the cinema being temporarily closed for 38 days.

Despite its rich history and being a cultural landmark in Lisbon, Cinema Condes was unable to withstand the competition from new cinemas in shopping centers and closed its doors in 1997. Nevertheless, its legacy endures as a symbol of the city’s passion for cinema and the arts.

Cinema Odéon

The Cinema Odéon, a Lisbon landmark located on Rua dos Condes, in the parish of São José, is an old cinema with a rich cultural history. Its importance is highlighted by the fact that it has been included in the Lisbon City Council’s Municipal Heritage Inventory and has been in the process of being classified by IGESPAR since 2008.

Inaugurated on September 21, 1927, Cinema Odéon is recognized as the city’s most emblematic cinema. It features distinctive elements of the Art Deco style, such as a pediment on the stage, a verbena wood ceiling, a neon chandelier, and a suspended side box, and is the only cinema in Lisbon to retain these features.

Currently closed, the cinema shows visible signs of deterioration over the years, reflecting its state of abandonment since the mid-1990s. However, it is about to be transformed into a luxury property, with plans to build ten apartments and a restaurant. The initiative aims to preserve the building’s history, keeping the most iconic elements intact, including balconies, marquees, and the Art Deco pediment.

This transformation will not only revitalize the space but also ensure that Cinema Odéon’s cultural and architectural legacy is preserved for future generations, standing out as an important symbol of Lisbon’s cultural heritage.

Cinema Império

The majestic Cinema Império, located at the intersection of Alameda Dom Afonso Henriques and Avenida Almirante Reis, in the parish of Arroios, Lisbon, Portugal, is an outstanding example of Estado Novo architecture. Inaugurated on May 24, 1952, and designed by Cassiano Branco, with completion by António Varela, Frederico George, and Raul Ramalho, the building established itself as one of the most prestigious cinemas in the Portuguese capital.

The Cinema Império stood out not only for its imposing architecture but also for its precise urban integration. With a capacity of 1,676 seats, distributed between the audience, 1st and 2nd balconies, the space was truly grandiose, reflecting the splendor of the “Cinema Cathedrals” of the 1950s.

Over the years, Cinema Império screened a wide variety of acclaimed films, from works by Ingmar Bergman to classics by Federico Fellini and Roman Polanski. In 1972, the Studio was inaugurated, a second room located on the top floor, which showed more daring and demanding films, further expanding the diversity of the program.

After decades as a cinematic icon, Cinema Império closed its doors in 1983. Today, the building houses a place of worship for the Universal Church of the Kingdom of God, thus preserving its historical and cultural importance.

Classified as a building of public interest by IGESPAR in 1996, Cinema Império continues to be remembered as one of the greatest examples of Estado Novo architecture in Portugal, a true architectural gem that evokes the golden age of cinema in Lisbon.

Cinema Olympia

The Olympia Cinema, inaugurated on April 22, 1911, was a cultural landmark in Lisbon. Owned by Empreza do Olympia, Limitada, composed of Júlio Petra Viana, Victor Alves da Cunha Rosa, and the brothers Leopoldo and Henrique O’Donnell, the cinema offered a variety of entertainment, from children’s matinees to soirées for the intellectual elite. Directed by Sabino Correia, the Olympia stood out for its screenings of international films accompanied by live musical performances.

During the 1920s, the cinema underwent improvements, including the addition of a restaurant and the transformation of the Cabaret into the Olympia Club, a famous jazz concert venue until 1959. In the 1950s, films of various genres began to be shown, such as westerns, cops, and thrillers.

After 1974, the cinema faced significant changes, showing erotic and pornographic films to attract audiences. However, with the rise of video, television, and the internet, the Olympia closed in 2001.

In 2008, renowned director Filipe La Féria bought the building with plans to turn it into a theater space and a performing arts school, expanding the Politeama Theater. However, the project was abandoned due to the high costs involved, leaving behind a rich history of entertainment and culture in Lisbon.

Cineteatro Capitólio

The Cineteatro Capitólio, officially inaugurated on July 10, 1931, stands as an architectural landmark in Lisbon, embodying a period of transition and innovation in Portuguese architecture.

Designed by architect Luís Cristino da Silva in 1929, it represents a departure from conventional styles, integrating elements of simplified art deco with a purist and rationalist aesthetic. Its unassuming façades and incorporation of international modernist influences positioned it as a pioneering manifesto in Portuguese architecture, marked by a series of technical innovations.

Functioning as a pioneering theater, music hall, and cinema, the Capitólio boasted a spacious interior hall with stage and adjacent dressing rooms, along with an outdoor cinema located on the rooftop terrace. This versatile space quickly became one of Lisbon’s most popular venues, hosting a diverse range of events including concerts, theater productions, wrestling matches, boxing bouts, skating shows, and film screenings.

Notable performances included screenings of “A Severa” and “A Canção de Lisboa,” as well as the national premiere of “Sunrise: A Song of Two Humans” by F.W. Murnau.

Following the April 25 Revolution, the Capitólio made headlines for its bold programming shift, featuring screenings of explicit films like “Garganta Funda,” which attracted large, sold-out crowds, symbolizing Lisbon’s embrace of newfound freedoms. Throughout the 1980s, the rooftop skating rink was repurposed as a discotheque known as “Roller Magic,” adding to the venue’s eclectic appeal. However, by the mid-1990s, the Capitólio closed its doors.

Designated as a Public Interest Property in 1983, efforts to revitalize the Capitólio began in 2007, aiming to restore its original purpose as a multi-purpose arts venue. Led by architect Alberto Souza Oliveira and financed by contributions from Casino Lisboa, the extensive reconstruction project culminated in November 2016.

The refurbished theater was named after renowned actor Raul Solnado, and in August 2017, the Aveiro-based promoter Sons em Trânsito won a five-year contract to manage the venue, pledging to focus on music, comedy, and cinema programming.

The Cineteatro Capitólio’s journey from architectural marvel to cultural hub reflects the evolving tastes and societal shifts in Lisbon, making it a cherished symbol of the city’s cultural heritage.

Cinema Monumental

The Cine-Teatro Monumental, which occupied Praça Duque de Saldanha between 1951 and 1984, remains a striking reminder of Lisbon’s cultural and architectural heritage. Erected amid the Estado Novo era, it was more than just a place of entertainment; it represented a historical and stylistic landmark, with an incomparable functionality that is still remembered with nostalgia by many.

The Monumental was designed to meet the diverse entertainment needs of the time, from cinema to theatrical and musical performances. Its design, conceived by architect Raúl Rodrigues Lima, inherited influences from the Portuguese modernism of the 1940s. With an imposing façade covered in stone and ornaments, such as a column topped by an armillary sphere, the Monumental stood out as an architectural symbol of Lisbon at the time.

Inside, the exquisite decoration created by José Espinho reflected an almost “Versaillian” luxury, with imposing chandeliers, majestic staircases, and gilded details. The screening rooms offered a unique experience, with a capacity for more than 1,900 spectators and equipped with state-of-the-art technology, guaranteeing high-quality projections.

As well as being an entertainment venue, the Monumental was also an important cultural center, with the theater hall attracting renowned shows and well-known artists, such as Laura Alves, who starred in some of the biggest hits of her career on this stage.

The building also housed the Café-Restaurant Monumental, a popular meeting place for artists and spectators, where you could often “sneak a peek” at the actors after the shows.

Despite its rich history and cultural importance, the Monumental was tragically closed recently, leaving a void in the heart of the city and in the memory of those who frequented it. However, its memory lives on through the stories told by those who had the privilege of witnessing its grandeur and contribution to Lisbon’s cultural life.

Cineteatro Éden

The Cineteatro Éden, located in Praça dos Restauradores in Lisbon, is an iconic landmark of art deco architecture in Portugal, designed by the renowned architect Cassiano Branco. Its history dates back to the 19th century when French engineer Albert Beauvalet rented the old stables of the Palácio da Foz to establish a car dealership and a makeshift music hall. The space was later transformed into the “Eden Theater”, which opened in 1914 with a capacity for more than 2,000 spectators.

In 1937, after a series of alterations and extensions, the Eden Theater was reopened as the Eden Cineteatro, designed to host both theatrical performances and film screenings. With its imposing façade and a theater that could hold up to 1,440 spectators, the Cineteatro Éden became a cultural institution in Lisbon, presenting a wide variety of productions, from plays to hit films.

During the 1940s and 1950s, Cineteatro Éden faced competition from other theaters in the area but remained a popular destination for entertainment. However, in the 1980s, the decline began, marked by episodes of violence and a change in cultural consumption patterns.

In 1989, the Amorim Group acquired the building and, after years of closure, carried out renovation work. The space was transformed into a hotel on the upper floors, while the first floor was given over to commercial stores. It later housed the Citizen’s Bureau, before being converted into a business-class apart-hotel on the upper floors.

Today, the Cineteatro Eden remains a historic landmark in Lisbon, preserving its original façade while adapting to modern times as a multifunctional space that combines history, culture, and commerce.

Cinema Ideal

Cinema Ideal, located in the heart of Lisbon, carries with it a rich history dating back to 1904, making it not only the oldest continuously operating cinema in Portugal but also one of the oldest in Europe and the world. Its trajectory is marked by a continuous devotion to independent cinema, Portuguese and European cinema, as well as an unwavering commitment to the local community.

In 2014, it underwent a complete revitalization, led by architect José Neves, which gave it a new lease of life and a modern structure, equipped with the most advanced digital image and sound projection systems. This renovation project received international recognition, including the Calouste Gulbenkian Foundation’s Vasco Villalva Prize and the AICA Architecture Award.

Cinema Ideal has become a meeting place not only for movie lovers but also for the local community. Its diverse program attracts distributors, producers, film festivals, and personalities from Portuguese cultural life, who often animate and present special screenings. In addition, the cinema is an intergenerational meeting place, promoting events that attract both the young and older audiences of the parish.

In addition to the 190-seat cinema, Cinema Ideal houses a DVD store, offering an extensive collection of over 300 references, as well as a selection of movie posters and books on cinema.

The cinema has the support of the Lisbon City Council and the Cinema and Audiovisual Institute of the Ministry of Culture, as well as being part of the prestigious Europa Cinemas network, with support from the Creative Europe MEDIA program of the European Union. These partnerships solidify Cinema Ideal’s role as a vital pillar in promoting film culture and enriching the cultural experience in the Portuguese capital.

Cinema Avis

The Cinema Avis, located at 45 Avenida Duque de Ávila in Lisbon, Portugal, was a magnificent building designed by the renowned architect Raul Lino. In the 1930s, it was recognized as one of the grandest and most elegant cinemas in the Portuguese capital. However, over the following decades, it underwent significant transformations, especially in the 1950s, when the architect Maurício de Vasconcelos led new interventions in the space.

The history of the Avis Cinema dates back to the Trianon-Palace, inaugurated in 1930 by the Count of Vila da Praia da Vitória. With a capacity for 538 spectators, the Trianon-Palace hosted a memorable inaugural session, showing notable films and presenting a live orchestra concert. Two years later, the space was acquired by Vicente Alcântara and renamed Cinema Palácio, undergoing renovations that included enlarging the audience and adding luxurious decorative elements.

In 1956, the cinema underwent another phase of renovation under the management of Soprocine – Sociedade Proprietária de Cinemas, Lda. Under the direction of Maurício de Vasconcelos, the interior was remodeled, introducing a modern, minimalist aesthetic. Reopened as the Avis Cinema, the venue hosted a variety of films, from musical comedies to dramas, standing out as a stage for important premieres.

However, over the years, the Avis Cinema faced increasing challenges, including a change in programming to adult films after 1974. Finally, in 1988, the cinema closed down and was demolished to make way for residential buildings.

Thus, the Avis Cinema left its mark on Lisbon’s cultural history, remembered not only for its architectural grandeur, but also for its contribution to the city’s film scene.

Cinema Quarteto

The Cinema Quarteto, located at Rua Flores do Lima, nº16, in Lisbon, Portugal, was a remarkable architectural work designed by architect Nuno San-Payo and conceived by writer and filmmaker Pedro Bandeira Freire.

Its inauguration on November 21, 1975, marked a significant milestone in Portuguese cinematographic history, being the first multiplex cinema in the country, consisting of four cinemas spread over two floors, with a total capacity of 716 spectators. However, after more than three decades in operation, it closed its doors on November 16, 2007.

Cinema Quarteto quickly stood out for its proposal to show alternative cinema, attracting a diverse audience, made up mainly of university students and cinephiles. Its varied program included everything from European cinema classics to premieres of national productions, establishing itself as an important meeting point for lovers of the seventh art in Lisbon.

In addition to film screenings, the space hosted a variety of cultural activities, such as film exhibitions, film marathons, plays, and premieres of acclaimed Portuguese films. However, over the years, the cinema began to face financial and structural difficulties, resulting in its gradual decline during the 90s.

Following management changes and a safety inspection that revealed worrying structural deficiencies, Cinema Quarteto was forced to close its operations in 2007. The building was subsequently acquired by the Plenitude of Christ Church in 2013 but remained dormant until it was transformed into a coworking space for startups in 2019.

So, although Cinema Quarteto has closed down, its legacy as an icon of film culture in Portugal continues to echo in the memory of those who frequented its theaters and celebrated its cultural diversity.

Cinema Europa

The Cinema Europa, located at 28 Rua Francisco Metrass in Lisbon, Portugal, has been an architectural and cultural landmark since it opened as a movie theater in 1931. Initially designed by Raúl Martins, the building has undergone several transformations over the years, becoming one of the most emblematic symbols of the Campo de Ourique neighborhood.

Initially known as Cinema Astória, the Europa stood out for its fusion of Art Deco and modernist elements, featuring an austere façade and a formally theatrical projection room. With a capacity for 878 spectators, it quickly became a meeting place for movie lovers in Lisbon.

After undergoing renovations in 1936, the cinema continued to attract crowds until, in 1957, the original building was demolished to make way for a new structure under the same name. Designed by architect Carlos Antero Ferreira and adorned with a high-relief sculpture by renowned sculptor Euclides Vaz, the new Cinema Europa opened in 1966 with great pomp and circumstance, marking a new era for the venue.

During the 1970s, the cinema underwent another phase of renovation, led by architect Raúl Rodrigues Lima, who added an iconic tile panel to the entrance hall, further raising the venue’s prestige.

However, in 1981, after fifty years of operation, Cinema Europa closed its doors as a movie theater, although it continued to be used for recording television programs and live shows. In the following years, the building faced the risk of being turned into a luxury condominium, but thanks to the “SOS Cinema Europa” movement, led by local residents, the space was preserved and turned into a library and cultural space.

After years of renovation and revitalization, the space reopened its doors in March 2017, keeping the memory of the cinema alive and offering the community a place dedicated to culture and entertainment. In this way, Cinema Europa continues to play an important role in Lisbon’s cultural life, celebrating the past while looking to the future.

Fade Out

As the curtain falls on our exploration of Lisbon’s historic movie theaters, we find ourselves immersed in a nostalgic journey through the city’s cinematic past. From the grandeur of Cinema São Jorge to the art deco charm of Cinema Europa, each theater we visited has left an indelible mark on Lisbon’s cultural landscape.

In a world dominated by multiplexes and streaming services, these iconic theaters stand as monuments to a bygone era when going to the movies was a magical experience, a communal ritual filled with anticipation and wonder. They remind us of a time when each film screening felt like a special event, and the silver screen held the power to transport us to distant lands and ignite our imaginations.

Through our exploration, we’ve witnessed the architectural splendor of venues like Cinema Império and the innovative spirit of spaces like Cineteatro Capitólio. We’ve learned about the rich history and cultural significance of each theater, from their grand openings to their eventual transformations or closures.

But beyond their physical presence, these theaters are more than just buildings; they are repositories of memories, stories, and emotions. They are places where friendships were forged, romances blossomed, and dreams took flight. They are symbols of resilience, adapting to changing times while remaining steadfast in their commitment to preserving the magic of cinema.

As we bid farewell to Lisbon’s historical movie theaters, let us carry with us the spirit of nostalgia and appreciation for these cultural treasures. Let us remember the moments of joy, laughter, and tears that were shared within their walls. And let us honor their legacy by continuing to celebrate the magic of cinema, both in Lisbon and beyond.

Though the era of grand movie palaces may have faded into memory, their legacy lives on in the hearts and minds of cinephiles everywhere. And as long as there are stories to be told and audiences eager to listen, the magic of the movies will continue to captivate and inspire us, just as it did in the golden age of cinema.

So let us raise a toast to Lisbon’s historical movie theaters, where dreams were made on the silver screen, and where the magic of cinema lives on forever.

Porto’s Most Famous Love Story: Camilo Castelo Branco and Ana Plácido

Porto’s most famous love story took place in the 19th century. Camilo Castelo Branco and Ana Plácido challenged the city’s norms and sense of morality, and, boy, was their relationship tumultuous! Camilo, a renowned writer, and Ana, a married woman and also a writer herself, dared to defy societal conventions. Marriage, prison, going on trial, nothing could break the bond of these lovers. Let’s dive into their dramatic love story!

The Lovers

Camilo Castelo Branco

Camilo Castelo Branco, a man of letters and a literary virtuoso, was known for his Romantic melodramas and works of realism. He was born in Lisbon in 1825, under circumstances that would shape his tumultuous life. Orphaned in childhood and raised by relatives in northern Portugal, his upbringing was marked by a lack of discipline and formal education.

At 16, he married Joaquina Pereira de França and began a life of studies and early literary pursuits. He dabbled in medicine and theology in Porto but soon found his true calling in the world of literature.

Camilo’s life in Porto started in 1843. Despite academic failures, he immersed himself in poetry and published his first works. His life took some huge dramatic turns with imprisonment in 1846, accusations of theft, and the start of his journalism career. The death of his wife in 1847 led to a return to Porto, where he faced trouble due to his controversial writings.

Ana Augusta Plácido

Ana Augusta Plácido was born in 1831 to a bourgeois family in a small city. At 19, she married 43-year-old Manuel Pinheiro Alves, a prosperous Brazilian businessman from Porto. The marriage was arranged by her father, António José Plácido Braga, and her fiancé, a common practice then. However, Ana had been in love with writer Camilo Castelo Branco since she was 15, having previously met him at a dance.

The Relationship Blossoms

Although Ana was married to Manuel Pinheiro Alves, her connection with Camilo grew. This relationship blossomed alongside Camilo’s complex interactions with the religious and literary circles of the time, including his considerations of a religious career.

Ana was a spirited woman with a talent for writing, often using a male pseudonym – a common practice at the time. However, her love for Camilo led her to forgo her literary ambitions, dedicating herself to being a supportive wife and mother. She assisted Camilo with manuscripts, influencing many of his stories.

Ana, aware of the scandal their relationship would cause, chose love over societal approval. She left her husband, embarking on a journey with Camilo that would lead them through the highest highs and the lowest lows.

In 1859, Camilo and Ana Plácido traveled to Lisbon. However, their life was challenging, as they were two fugitives moving across the country, struggling with limited resources. On August 11th, 1859, the couple had a son, Manuel Plácido, who was legally declared the son of Pinheiro Alves.

As their affair became public, the scandal rocked Porto. Ana was forced into a convent in Braga, in an attempt to quell the flames of their love. But, like a phoenix rising from the ashes, Ana fled the convent, returning to Camilo’s arms. Their love was unbreakable, a testament to their devotion to each other.

The Arrest

In 1860, Ana’s husband, feeling betrayed, filed an adultery lawsuit against them, leading to their imprisonment in Porto at the Cadeia da Relação, now the current site of the Portuguese Photography Center.

Ana was captured on June 6th, 1860, and Camilo, after hiding in Entre-Douro-e-Minho, surrendered to the authorities on October 1st. In jail, Camilo enjoyed some comforts and was not confined to his cell all the time. He was visited twice by Dom Pedro V and managed to write his most famous and widely read novel, “Amor de Perdição,” in just 15 days. Ana’s presence was a constant in Camilo’s life, even as they faced societal judgment and legal troubles.

The building where Camilo and Ana were imprisoned, now the Portuguese Photography Center in Porto, Ted McGrath, Flickr

Marriage and Later Years

In October 1861, Ana and Camilo were cleared of charges, thanks to Dr. José Maria Teixeira de Queiroz. Eça’s father and a Court Counselor, Queiroz frequently visited the writer to shape his legal defense. Although grateful to Queiroz, Camilo later engaged in a heated debate with Queiroz’s son.

In 1862, the couple moved to Lisbon. There, their son, Jorge Camilo Plácido de Castelo-Branco, was born on June 26, 1863. That year, following Pinheiro Alves’ death, Manuel Plácido inherited a house in São Miguel de Ceide, Famalicão. The family relocated there in 1864, where their third child, Nuno Plácido, was born on September 15.

Home of Camilo Castelo Branco and Ana Plácido (now a museum), Pedro, Flickr

Despite living in Famalicão, Camilo frequently visited Porto. He often went to libraries, theaters, and beaches in Leça da Palmeira and Foz. In 1868, he married Ana Plácido in Porto and lived on Rua de Santa Catarina. The family also traveled to Lisbon and Coimbra, focusing on their children’s education. In 1868, Ana and Camilo co-founded A Gazeta Literária do Porto. In 1872, they hosted Brazil’s Emperor, D. Pedro II, in Porto.

Camilo’s personal life, however, was marred by tragedy. The insanity of his son and his own declining health cast a shadow over his later years. In 1890, overcome by illness and despair, Camilo ended his life, a tragic conclusion to a life lived with fervent intensity.

Ana’s life was equally marked by literary achievement and personal struggle. Her novel “Herança de Lágrimas” reflected her insightful perspective on the complexities of female morality and choice. After Camilo’s death, Ana continued to live in the home they shared, her final years spent in the shadow of her great love. She passed away suddenly in 1895, leaving behind a legacy of literary and personal resilience.

The love story of Camilo and Ana was a tale of passion and a narrative of defiance against the rigid norms of their society. Their romance is a story of hope and inspiration for those who dared to love beyond the boundaries set by tradition, a timeless tale that continues to inspire and captivate.

The Portuguese Photography Center and the Amor de Perdição Statue

The prison where Camilo and Ana were imprisoned is now the Portuguese Photography Center in Porto. Since 2012, a statue with the same name as Castelo Branco’s novel “Amor de Perdição” stood in the square. Sculpted by Francisco Simões, it depicted Castelo Branco fully dressed, being embraced by a naked Ana Plácido.

In September 2023, the mayor of Porto decided to tear it down viewing it as inappropriate after a small group petitioned against it.

The relationship between Camilo and Ana, even 175 years later, continues to stir controversy but will never be forgotten in the hearts of the Portuguese people.