Intro

The City of Seven Hills, The City of Light. These are some of the nicknames for this magical place known as Lisbon, or Lisboa in Portuguese. While the historic center of Lisbon – what is usually marketed when you see an ad for the city – feels small and quaint, the metropolitan of Lisbon is actually quite large and boasts great diversity in climate, scenery, architecture, and people. 

This guide is written with the potential expat in mind. If you’re eyeing your next home, this article should shed some light on what greater Lisbon has to offer. 

Intro to Lisbon

Lisbon is the capital of Portugal and the country’s largest city. Greater Lisbon spans 18 municipalities with a population of around 2.9 million. One of Europe’s oldest cities, Lisbon’s history dates back to BCE when the city bounced around from the Celts to the Phoenicians to the Carthaginians to the Romans. From 711 to 1147 CE Lisbon was controlled by the Moors, whose cultural imprint can still be seen in the city’s architecture and language. In the Renaissance period, Lisbon’s port became one of the world’s most significant, serving as the point of disembarture during the Age of Discovery when Portugal’s empire extended from Brazil to India to the Far East. The city survived one of the world’s worst recorded earthquakes in 1755. Two centuries later, its occupants survived the tumultuous authoritarian period known as the Estado Novo spanning from 1933-1974. Since then, especially from 2011 onwards, when Portugal received an EU-funded economic recovery package, Lisbon has re-emerged, recapturing some of its regality, as one of modern Europe’s greatest financial recovery stories. Lisbon is now a top destination for tourism, an up-and-coming tech hub, and a great option for expatriation or retirement. 

Central Lisbon

The majority of expats have adopted Lisbon’s historic center as their home. It’s easy to understand why with it’s array of historic buildings, azulejo tiles reflecting Lisbon’s divine sunshine, winding cobblestone roads, trams, tascas serving Portugal’s trademark dessert – the pastel de nata, and tons of options for wining, dining, and entertainment. 

The most traditional neighborhoods of central Lisbon are: Belém, Alcântara, Santos-o-Velho, Cais do Sodré, Chiado/Bairro Alto, Principe Real, Lapa/Estrela, Alfama, Graça, and Avenida. The liveliest being east of Lisbon’s iconic 25th of April bridge – from Santos over to Graça.

If you venture a little further north, still very much central Lisbon, you will hit other major neighborhoods – Campo de Ourique, Praça de Espanha, Amoreiras, Saldanha, Anjos, Alameda, Alvalade, etc. This area will be highlighted below, where I refer to it as ‘outer central Lisbon’. On the city’s east side, following the Tagus river north you have industrial zones in the process of being renovated with what some have termed a ‘Berlin-esque’ warehouse vibe, namely Beato and Marvila. Northern still, bordering the airport, you have the modern Parque das Nações, also referred to as Expo, since it was designed for the World Expo in 1998. 

Apartment hunting in central Lisbon, and especially in the historic center, or what I’d refer to as ‘southern central Lisbon’, is not easy. Many of the best places were snatched up by developers for renovation, and have been either converted into high-priced modern apartments for sale, often as part of Portugal’s Golden Visa program, or utilized as Airbnbs. Meanwhile, many buildings lay vacant due to tax incentives and legacy ownership regulations. Buying prices are high at over 2000€ a square meter ($200 a square foot) and rents ranging from 850€ – 1600€ a month for a single bedroom. 

However, if you’re willing to fork out the cash to settle in the southern section of central Lisbon, you will enjoy no shortage of things to do. These areas are increasingly filled with great restaurants, cafés, bars and clubs, pop-up galleries, street art, lovely river views, historic architecture, and a cosmopolitan array of inhabitants (not to mention an endless stream of tourists buzzing by on rented scooters and tuk-tuks). Basically, this is where it’s ‘popping’ in Lisbon. 

Recounting all that the city of Lisbon has to offer and deep diving on each neighborhood would require a series of long articles, so I’ve attempted to summarize each major neighborhood in a phrase below:

Alcântara – a bit sleepy, but great to be by the bridge

Santos – tatted, fedora cladded flat-white drinking hipsterville

Cais – drunken bachelorette parties and the best place to be harassed to buy fake drugs

Alfama – a living museum serenaded by Fado

Graça – bohemian Italian and French artists living 8 to a flat walking amongst 85 year old Portuguese people

Saldanha – flat, central, and campy

Avenida – luxurious

Principe Real – hippie-chic posh

Chiado – tourists

Barrio Alto – rowdy university students drunk on 2€ beers

If you’d like to deep dive on any of Lisbon’s many neighborhoods, I’d suggest you check out the hoodpicker resource, compiled by long-standing Lisbon expat and OG digital nomad Peter Fabor.

Outer Lisbon

The ‘up and comer’ in the forward thinking real estate investor’s toolkit, the more northern parts of Lisbon, which border the airport to the east and extend deep beyond the main highways to the west, are primarily home to locals. This is a great option if you are looking for the convenience of large stores, parking, and much more down-to-earth housing prices. However, if you are newly arrived to Lisbon and looking for excitement, culture, other expats, and to walk the romantic images of Lisbon you see online, it’s not the place. Replace Moorish-style architecture and trams with dense, block housing and traffic. If you’re looking to live like a local, it’s here.

Outer Central Lisbon

In between the culturally dull outer limits of Lisbon mentioned above (basically beyond the 2a Circular highway, or in terms of the metro, think beyond the Green Line or past Colégio Militar/Luz on the Blue Line) and the bustling south, you have a special area you could consider ‘northern central Lisbon’. This is geographically the dead center of the city, but a bit north of the most popular tourist and nightlife destinations further south. This would include areas like São Sebastião, Campo Pequeno and Campo Grande, Praça Espanha, and Alvalade. Here, you have well-groomed and quieter neighborhoods with more housing options, great car access, tons of commercial convenience, a nice mix of foreign and locals, and flatter terrain that’s easier to navigate. Housing here is pricey, but you’ll find it a bit more like a modern city and less like a tourist hotbed. Still, it boasts less of the picturesque Lisbon of promotional campaigns and is not where the majority of culture and nightlife occur. 

The ‘Linha’

Spanning the southern coast of Lisbon, paralleling the Tagus river delta until it meets the Atlantic ocean, is what’s known as the ‘linha’, or the ‘line’. This is due to the train line that runs from Cais in central Lisbon all the way to Cascais in the western end of the country. The linha is dotted with communities that offer a more US suburban feel to juxtapose the urban chaos of central Lisbon. The benefit is, you have great proximity to the ocean. Living on the linha is great if you are looking for space (think family or pets) or if you want easy access to surf. Although the train service is good, reliable and affordable, I wouldn’t suggest settling here unless you own a car. The train service stops at 1:30am to 5:30am, and wait times get long later into the night. The main area north of the ‘linha’ is known as Oeiras. Oeiras is reminiscent of major suburban cities in the US – think Naperville to Chicago, Overland Park to Kansas City, or Glendale or Sherman Oaks in LA. There are tons of office parks, lots of large stores, many families, and it’s designed for driving. If you’re thinking ‘house’ this is a great area. It’s perfectly situated between the scenic destinations of Sintra and Cascais to the West and bustling Lisbon to the East. 

But again, if you’re looking for a culturally vibrant, urban lifestyle of drinking wine on sidewalk eateries –  not here. However, you can definitely enjoy some ‘vinho verde’ at beachfront restaurants!

Cascais / Estoril

Sometimes referred to as the ‘Portuguese Riviera’, this is ‘fancy’ Portugal. Cascais, and maybe even more, its neighboring Estoril, is where the Portuguese go when they’ve ‘made it’ and feel like they’ve matured beyond the chaotic Lisbon lifestyle. Think a slightly less posh Beverly Hills, Greenwich, etc. 

Estoril is home to Europe’s largest casino, the Casino Estoril, rumored to be Ian Fleming’s inspiration for James Bond and Casino Royale. It also offers some trendy beaches full of sun-kissed Portuguese ‘betas’, slang for the posh Portuguese female elite, as well as golf courses, private schools and a more conservative crowd. Cascais is similar, but a bit more urbanized. It has a large expat community, but one leaning more towards retirees than the youth of Lisbon. 

Real estate here is similar in price to Lisbon, but leans more towards larger homes serving the upscale market. 

If you are looking to move with a family and want less chaos and traffic than Lisbon, yet still want some semblance of a city and easy beach access, then Cascais and Estoril are fantastic choices.

Sintra

Sintra is magical. It borders Cascais to the north and is on the far western edge of the greater Lisbon region. It’s a forested, hilly land shrouded in mist that feels like it’s straight out of Harry Potter (did you know JK Rowlings did much of her writing of the series while in Portugal?). Specifically, there is the mystical Quinta da Regaleira and its underground tower, as well as the lavishly decorated Pena Palace. Sintra is definitely not urban. It has a small, charming downtown, but it’s very slow and tranquil. This is a great place to find a home with lots of green space and spend time doing yoga, art, and hiking in nature. It’s not where you go for a city life. One important drawback of Sintra is that it possesses a microclimate which makes it rainier and colder than the rest of Lisbon. 

It’s worth noting that if you’re a surfer, Cascais-Sintra puts you in proximity to good surf breaks, including Guincho and Praia Grande. Living in Lisbon means your closest breaks require you to drive to Carcavelos on the ‘linha’ or to cross the river to Costa da Caparica. 

Caparica and Ericeira

Speaking of surf – Caparica and Ericeira are two areas neighboring Lisbon that also serve as great living options providing excellent surf. Caparica is a short drive across the bridge from Lisbon. Ericeira, a world renowned surfing destination, is a slightly longer trek to the Northwest of the city (~50km, 30 miles). However, neither are considered metropolitan Lisbon, and thus not detailed in this article. 

In Summary

Lisbon offers a ton of options – from the historic and touristic central Lisbon to the elegant hillside homes of Estoril. Bear in mind, if you’re thinking of buying, Lisbon’s housing prices are red hot. Many say it’s a bubble, soon to correct. With that being said, the influx in demand in this historic and exciting city means it continues to become more cosmopolitan, more commercially viable, and basically ‘better’, every year. It’s a fantastic time to move here. Trust me, you’ll find that almost everyone here is loving life and very proud to call Lisbon their home.

If you’d like to join in on the fun, or at least learn more to make a more informed decision, please visit basedinportual.com and book a consultation with me to deep dive on your questions.

Editor’s Note: Please be careful, safe and follow all regulations regarding the covid-19 pandemic issued by the government.

Winter is a great time to celebrate life and there is currently at least one city in Europe that is keen on dancing till the morning. 

Lisbon, the capital of one of the world’s most vaccinated countries has become a European destination of choice for party-starved tourists by keeping parties and mass events like Christmas markets & Carnivals going. 

Head to this jovial city to immerse into the magical atmosphere of Winter 2022 and check out our top twenty things to do in Lisbon this winter. Read on and pack up to enjoy the Portuguese capital’s festive vibe.

1. Go Partying in Lisbon

Lisbon is one of Europe’s topmost party capitals. It is known for its Bairro Alto, a charming area by day that turns into a partying monster throbbing with pleasure-seeking at night.

Even though tiny in size, the district numbers over 100-night establishments and has one of the world’s highest shares of nightspots per capita. It is by right considered one of the best places to party in the winter of 2022.

Keep in mind that even though the Portuguese capital has stayed out of lockdown the EU digital certificate will be required for you to attend a public event like a party, for example.

2. Head for Dinner and a Shopping Spree in Lisbon’s hip LX Factory

One of Lisbon’s secret places LX Factory is a cluster of shops, restaurants, cafes, and creative spaces. It is known for its tasty food, cute hipster ambiance, designer stores, and a Sunday market that draws in the most “plugged-in” Lisbonites.

The Lx Factory is situated at 103, Rodrigues de Faria Street. To get there from Cais do Sodré you need to jump on the 15E tram or hop on the 714 Bus.

3. Go to a Techno Party at the Kremlin, Lisbon

Housed inside an old convent in the area of Santos, the club with this somewhat menacing name is something to be afraid of.

Going to the 350 square meters party-den can induce a highly acute dancing frenzy, which can be exacerbated by the presence of Lisbon’s most incorrigible techno fiends. 

Note that even in winter you will feel hot, which makes it a great alternative to mulled wine on Lisbon’s quay to cheer the New Year in.

Keep in mind that the club has a truly unique interior, with a rough stone floor, many imposing arches among other anachronistic décor elements.

Sadly, it is open just on Friday and Saturday and even then only from midnight. If party-minded on Thursdays and Sundays go to LuxFragil, another great techno spot in Lisbon.

4. Kick back and listen to reggae in the Groove Bar

Sitting on the notorious Rua de Rosa in Barro Alto, the reggae joint is known for its chilled rhythms and a laid-back feel. It also features great DJs performances, punchy cocktails, a trippy inside, and a wall painting of charismatic Commandante Che Guevara, a symbol of Lisbon’s nightlife’s resilience this winter.

5. Meet New Year at Ribeira Esplanade

Once a place for building and repairing ships sailing for Portuguese India’s Spice Coast, Ribeira Esplanade is one of the best places to celebrate New Year in Lisbon. Dance your way to Ribeira Esplanade to look beyond the horizon and think of all the adventures that the year 2022 is promising you.

Party in the year 2022 by uncorking this heady Dao right at the water edge. Or if abstinent, go for a coffee at a riverside café; but don’t forget a sprinkle of cinnamon to make the New Year ever more spicy and fragrant.

6. Head to Cascais for a Christmas Family Dinner

Known as one of Europe’s most chic seaside resorts for its luxurious casinos (one of which inspired a James Bond movie, Casino Royale), hotels, and restaurants, Cascais is one of the best places to celebrate New Year and Christmas.

Feel like a true royal in Cascais’ beautiful setting made so famous by the Portuguese, British and Spanish kings, who relished spending their time here.

Bear in mind that the beaches between Cascais and Lisbon are the best for a winter seaside walk, while those further North may feel windier.

7. Shop at its en vogue boutiques

Lisbon is a fashion magnet whose pull has inexorably grown. Apart from trendy places such as LX Factory, it boasts many designer boutiques such its Embaixada, a cult-like store housed in a stunning Ribeira de Cunha Palace; Luvaria Ulisses, one of Lisbon’s choicest historical boutiques specialised entirely in selling limited edition unique leather gloves; FORA, selling vintage-inspired sunglasses to sport in the sun-lit Lisbon; Baixa, a tribute to all milliners and one of the best hand-made hat-stores; or 88 Retro, one of the Lisbon’s most exquisite vintage clothing boutiques, which even sells some home ornaments.

8. Head for a rooftop swim at White Lisboa Hotel

Open till midnight, the roof-top infinity pool is one of the nicest places to sip on your cocktail while floating starfish-like in warm water under the impeccably blue skies, delighting in the warm sunshine.

Note that it is best to laze about on the paradisiac rooftop as a guest of White Lisboa Hotel, one of the best places to put up in in Lisbon.

9. Use a funicular (cable car) for a great selfie opportunity

Go to the bohemian Bairro Alto by day to have a look at its street art, ride a funicular to take great pics, and gaze at the eye-pleasing facades of its centuries-old houses. Keep in mind that you can stay here beyond sunset for you to check out the area’s unleashed partying vibe.

10. Revel in communal carnivalesque frenzy on Fat Tuesday, 1st of March 2022

One of the best times to visit Lisbon is the end of February – the beginning of March when both locals and visitors put on dashing and extravagant dresses and parade down its streets.

The festivities leave no place for escape and draw in thousands of ordinarily quiet folk that turn into merry revelers who know no sense of inhibition and engage in frenzied feast-making, often disguised as someone else.

Note that a Brazilian beach-side carnival takes place in Sesimbra, while a more Lusitanian celebration unfolds in Torres Vedras.

11. Sample the heavenly seafood at Invicta

Christmas and New Year’s time are synonymous with good food and champagne drinking. What can be more festive than oysters washed down with this effervescent tipple?

To sample what is arguably Lisbon’s best oysters head to Invicta, one of Lisbon’s top-secret places. It is prized not only for oysters but also great prawns and other seafood delicacies, not to mention the non-pareil atmosphere that inevitably leads to the New Year carousal.

Note that the restaurant’s address is 140 Rua da Esperanca, close by Museu da Marioneta.

12. Head for 1/8 finals UEFA champions league games played by Sporting and Benfica

The winter of 2022 is truly special for the Lisbonites who are truly enraptured by football. The joga bonito lovers will for sure spend a sleepless night in February when Sporting and Benfica will play in the city in the knock-out stage of the UEFA Champions League tournament.

Head to the stands to root them on to the quarter finals and maybe see one of them winning the UEFA champions trophy in the future.

Note that it was as far back as 2003 when it happened last time. Then, Porto carried off the title of Europe and hence the world’s strongest club, and revived Portugal’s football glory.

13. Go on a Lisbon Pub Crawl

Pub crawling is one of locals & foreigners in Lisbon’s favourite pastimes. Hop from one Lisbon bar to another and meet a lot of new friends, which is bound to make your winter holiday in Lisbon ever more pleasant and memorable.

14. Pay a visit to its museums

Lisbon is known as one of the most “cultural” cities in Europe. A museum buff will for sure spend at least half of their time in Lisbon going to the likes of rather unique Museu da Marioneta, Portugal’s first museum dedicated to puppetry or splendid Asia-focused Museu do Oriente; or more mainstream art-treasure-houses such as Museum Nacional do Azulejo, devoted to azulejo, a traditional Iberian tilework; Museu Coleção Berardo, a contemporary art museum, and Museu Calouste Galboukian, a major encyclopedic art museum, featuring stunning paintings and other art objects.

Keep in mind that the Museu da Marioneta, situated at 146 Rua da Esperanca, is home to unique South-East Asian puppets, including those used in the Shadowy Theatre Art of Wayang originating on Java Island in Indonesia.

Making your way to Museu da Marioneta is one of the ways to remind oneself that Portugal was one of the first European empires to build its presence in the Southern Seas.

15. Amble around its kinetic downtown

One of the best things to do in Lisbon in winter is to stroll around its picturesque historical centre. Here, you can find not only magnificent palaces, cathedrals and churches but also leafy gardens and narrow lanes that will make it your heart’s refuge.

Set aside 2 or 3 hours for a thorough search of this terrain for its hidden gems such as Museu de Marinha and other nautical landmarks like 16th century Tower of Belem and the sail-shaped Discoveries Monument.

Also don’t miss out on Pasteis de Belem patisserie frequented for its custard tarts, or another tropics-related site such as Jardanico Tropical.

16. Sail around to see its eye-appealing cityscape from water

Have you been thinking how to celebrate New Year and toast the year 2022 in? Think no longer, and book a private champagne-fueled sail along the picture-perfect Lisbon riverside. 

Whatever the watercraft you will charter, such a maritime adventure will for sure become the main part of your Lisbon holiday since it is the sea-faring genius of the Portuguese that made the capital what it is, one of Europe’s greatest cities.

17. Go to one of the world’s most beauteous cathedrals

The somewhat austere Lisbon Cathedral is a grand structure highlighting the importance of Christian faith for Lisbonites. Here you can attend a Christmas mass, and see for yourself its strikingly beautiful interior. 

Don’t miss out on the beautiful rose windows, the one-of-its-kind altarpiece and the super-high vaulted ceiling.

Keep in mind that you can celebrate your Christmas in other places of worship in Lisbon and don’t forget that the festive mood is not only inside but also outside.

18. Go to the TNSC National Opera House of Portugal

What can be more Christmas-like than going to listen to an Opera. Head to the Sao Carlos National Theatre to attend Sebastian Bach’s Christmas Oratorio, one of the best theatre shows for Christmas.

Opened to the public in 1793, the grand opera house is one of Europe’s most venerable theatres. Its opulent & spacious interior is matched by the superb quality of the Opera performances and its characteristically Portuguese exterior.

So whether you are spending Christmas here or not don’t forget to pay a visit to this great theatre and sense the grandeur of Lisbon’s soirees.

19. Buy books at Sa Da Costa in Chiado

If no usual souvenir shop can satisfy your yearn for something special to give to your loved ones for Christmas, head to this antiquarian bookstore. Located in Chiado, it offers all kinds of ancient books, whose value will for sure increase with time.

Note that as a result of censorship of Salazar’s dictatorial regime, and formerly hefty costs of book manufacturing, Portugal and Lisbon took to reading second-hand books and have a lot of antiquarian book shops: so never cease hunting for new treasures.

20. Sample the best Portuguese wine

Known for its wide selection of Portuguese wines, expert staff and highly delectable wine snacks NOVA bar is one of the best wine stores to start navigating the alluring world of Portuguese national brew. But it is by no means unique, and there are many other boutique wine stores selling not only regular Portuguese wine but also its organic varieties.

Keep in mind that winter makes mulled wine especially tasty. You can try the Portuguese mulled wine at Kaffeehaus, Trobadores, Fabulas, Dona Tilia, Remi Coffee & Wine.

21. Indulge in juicy Leitão at Estadio Dom Leitão

The Portuguese signature Christmas dish is Leitão, a roasted piglet that came to stand for Christmas celebrations. It is best to order a Leitão with friends or family at one of Lisbon’s restaurants specialised in serving roasted-suckling-pigs. One of those is Estadio Dom Leitão, a great spot to celebrate Christmas and the New Year

22. Go to Lisbon’s one-of-its-kind Christmas Market

Lisbon is one of Europe’s topmost Christmas destinations not only because of its great nightlife, church ceremonies, ambrosial food but also thanks to the magical atmosphere one can find at its many Christmas markets and fairs, such as Cascais Christmas Village (December 5-January 1) situated in Parque Marechal Carmona.

It boasts a skating rink, a spell-binding Christmas tree, an enchanted forest, a zippy merry-go-round, a Santa Claus House and a dynamic Christmas market pulling in about 160,000 visitors every year.

Conclusion

Head to Lisbon to indulge in its unique winter charm and uncover its myriad attractions such as its one-of-its-kind Christmas markets, bustling food & drink scenery, scenic old town, and some of the world’s best museums. Make your winter holiday in Lisbon full of memorable moments and pack up for your one-of-its-kind Lisbon winter escapade.