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The 10 Worst Tourist Attractions in Portugal (and Better Alternatives)

Portugal is a sunny paradise where the architecture speaks, the ocean sparkles, and the pastries are so good that they should come with a warning label. However, the thing is, behind every postcard-perfect view, there is a tourist trap waiting to ambush the unsuspecting visitor with long lines, inflated prices, and the kind of disappointment you can’t wash down even with the finest wine. To save you from wasting precious hours (and euros) on some of the country’s most overrated attractions, we’ve compiled this somewhat brutal, but very honest guide. With our help, prepare to sidestep the hype, dodge the crowds, and discover a smarter and more authentic Portugal.

1. Tram 28, Lisbon

Lisbon’s Tram 28 is the city’s most photographed yellow relic. It promises an unforgettable journey through historic neighborhoods like Alfama, Baixa, and Estrela. However, once you step aboard, you quickly realize it’s less of a charming vintage transport and more like a sweaty international sardine can. It can be unforgettable, but for the wrong reasons. The tram is notorious for being totally packed, especially during peak hours, with tourists wedged together in a contest of who can sweat the most while clutching their belongings from opportunistic pickpockets. The wooden benches and brass fittings might indeed be historic, but the experience is more of a survival challenge than the promised and expected nostalgic ride. I can say from experience that the only thing you’re likely to discover on Tram 28 is how many nationalities can fit into a single tram car before someone faints. Instead, if you’re determined to see Lisbon by tram, try Tram 12, which offers a similar route with a fraction of the crowds. Or, better yet, lace up your shoes and explore on foot. Lisbon’s hills may test your calves, but at least you’ll have room to breathe and the freedom to discover the city at your own pace.

Digital Nomad Guide to Lisbon, Portugal
Tram 28. Photo by Archana Reddy (Unsplash)

2. Pena Palace, Sintra

Pena Palace sits at the top of Sintra’s hills, visible from miles away. The architecture is a mix of Gothic, Manueline, Moorish, and Renaissance styles, making it look like a Disney castle designed during a wild dream. But the fairytale quickly fades when you’re stuck in a serpentine queue, pushing with hundreds of other visitors for a glimpse inside. The interiors, although opulent, are navigated at a shuffle, and the ticket price is enough to make many question their priorities. The palace’s Instagrammable exterior is best enjoyed from afar, because up close, it is very likely that the only magic you’ll find is the vanishing of your patience. Although Sintra might have become almost unbearable at times, if you have decided to go and are looking for a more magical and less maddening experience, skip the bigger circus and visit Monserrate Palace. It offers stunning architecture, magical gardens, and, most importantly, the ability to enjoy them without being herded like cattle.

Pena Palace. Photo by Mark Lawson (Unsplash)

3. Time Out Market, Lisbon

Time Out Market is Lisbon’s most well known answer to the food court concept, but with a designer price tag and a crowd to match. Housed in the historic Mercado da Ribeira, the market boasts stalls from some of Portugal’s top chefs, but the real paradigm is a scrum of tourists fighting for a seat and paying double the price for half the authenticity. I know, from personal experience, that it wasn’t always like this, but, today, the atmosphere is less “authentic Portuguese feast” and more “crowded airport terminal with better lighting.” Reports state that over a quarter of visitors leave feeling disappointed and deceived, with access issues and the lack of local flair topping the list of complaints. Honestly, if you’re looking for a genuine Portuguese culinary experience, this will not be it. Alternatively, wander into a traditional “tasca” in neighborhoods like Campolide (Cantinho do Alfredo) or Estrela (A Modesta da Pampulha), where the food is hearty, the prices fair, and the only crowd may very well be a group of locals debating politics or last weekend’s football match.

Time Out Market, Lisbon, DepositPhotos.com

4. Algarve Beaches in Peak Season

The Algarve’s beaches are legendary, but in July and August, most of them transform into large sandboxes packed with sunburned tourists, inflatable animal buoys, and the endless buzz of boats, jetskis, and beach vendors. Prices for everything (from parking to sunbeds, and even a scoop of ice cream) soar, and finding a bit of sand that isn’t already claimed is a quest worthy of a medal. In fact, the traffic jams alone can make you question your life choices. I’ve been going to Algarve every year for the past 27 years and, since I can remember, in peak season, the only thing more abundant than the sunshine is the number of cars and towels per square meter. For a taste of the Algarve’s beauty without the unbearable chaos, visit in May, June, or September, when the weather is still great but the crowds have thinned. Or, instead, do something even better and escape to quieter spots like Serra de Tavira or the villages of Monchique and Salir for example, where the only rush is for the next round of “medronho”.

Lagos, Algarve, DepositPhotos.com

5. Livraria Lello, Porto

Although JK Rowling has publicly denied any direct inspiration, Livraria Lello is known to be the “Harry Potter bookstore”. Its ornate staircase and stained glass ceiling that are thought to have influenced the depiction of Hogwarts draw legions of fans and curious eyes. But, unless your idea of magic is paying an entrance fee to shuffle through a mob of Potterheads, you might want to give it a pass. The experience is not the literary pilgrimage one could expect from the beauty of the place. The reality is that the actual books take a backseat to the selfie and Instagram frenzy. For a more authentic literary adventure, visit Livraria Bertrand in Lisbon, which is the world’s oldest operating bookstore. There, you can actually browse in peace and maybe even buy a book without elbowing your way through a crowd of wand lovers.

Livraria Lello. Photo by Peter Justinger (Unsplash)

6. Cabo da Roca, Sintra

Cabo da Roca markets itself as the westernmost point of mainland Europe, and while it is indeed the westernmost point and the views are mesmerizing, the experience is often spoiled by the constant churn of tour buses, selfie sticks, and a queue for a photo with the commemorative plaque. The wind is relentless, and the sense of isolation, if it exists at all, is quickly shattered by the crowd of fellow explorers, all seeking the same shot. The only thing more impressive than the view is the number of people trying to get the same photo. Alternatively, for windswept cliffs without the crazy apparatus, head to Cabo Espichel near Sesimbra. The views are equally breathtaking, but you’ll share them with seagulls and the occasional hiker rather than a busload of tourists.

Cabo da Roca. Photo by Eugene Zhyvchik (Unsplash)

7. Restaurants in Praça do Comércio, Lisbon

Once upon a time, dining in Praça do Comércio might have been a good idea and a pleasant experience, but today it became a rite of passage for those who enjoy paying triple for microwaved codfish and soggy chips. The view of the river is spectacular, but unless you’re eating the scenery, you’ll leave hungry and poorer. The only thing authentic about these restaurants is the shock afterwards. The view is better than the meal, and the only thing you’ll remember is the bill. If you have doubts, bear in mind that most locals (including myself) wouldn’t be caught dead eating there. For a meal worth remembering, head to Bairro Alto (Antigo Restaurante 1º de Maio) or Alfama (Parreirinha de Alfama), where the food is as soulful as the fado and the prices won’t make you cry into your plate.

Praca do Comercio. Photo by João Reguengos (Unsplash)

8. Santa Justa Elevator, Lisbon

Lisbon’s Santa Justa Lift is an engineering marvel and a relic of the Belle Époque that promises panoramic views from its wrought-iron viewing platform. But, unless you really want to queue for hours just to ride a glorified elevator, you might want to reconsider. The queue often snakes around the block, and the price for a short ride (or even just access to the viewpoint) is steep for what you get. At the top, the view is indeed spectacular, but the charm of this attraction is lost in the shuffle of selfie-snapping crowds and the constant hum of impatient tourists. Apart from the periodic school visits, which I have already been part of many years ago, locals do their best to avoid this place. For a less stressful and much more rewarding panoramic view of the city, there are much better places, which are free and, depending on the time and the day of the week, can be considerably less crowded. I suggest heading to one of the city’s many viewpoints, such as Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara or Miradouro da Graça for example, where you can enjoy the scenery at your own pace without the price tag or the wait.

Santa Justa Lift, DepositPhotos.com

9. Belém Tower, Lisbon

Belém Tower is an iconic symbol of Portugal’s Age of Discovery. The standalone building, which was once surrounded by water, is featured on countless postcards and Instagram feeds. Unfortunately, it seems that its popularity is both its blessing and its curse. The lines to enter are notoriously long and, once inside, the space is cramped and the experience underwhelming for many. Visitors often find themselves shuffling through narrow staircases and small rooms, all while trying to avoid bumping into each other. The exterior is undeniably photogenic, but the interior is less impressive than the hype induced by the countless buses parked nearby suggests. For a similar taste of Portugal’s Manueline architecture and maritime history without the unjustified hassle, visit the nearby Jerónimos Monastery. Its grand cloisters are far more spacious and inspiring, and while it still draws crowds, the experience is usually much more rewarding.

Torre de Belem, Lisbon
Torre de Belem. Photo by Viktoriia Rusu

10. Bolhão Market, Porto

What was once the beating heart of local commerce in Porto, now finds itself in a strange limbo between something that is and is not. The main market building has been under construction for years, and what remains is a very modest temporary structure that struggles to capture the authentic spirit of the place that it once was. Inside, the selection of stalls is limited, the atmosphere subdued, and the overall experience underwhelming when compared to the food markets found in cities like Barcelona or Lyon. For many visitors, the only memorable part is the confusing layout and the sense that something important is missing. Namely, the lively, authentic market vibe that once defined this spot. Thus, if you’re in Porto and seeking real market experience, try heading to Mercado Bom Sucesso. More free from the tourist circus, it is a place where locals shop and the food is fresh and varied.

Mercado do Bolhão, Porto, DepositPhotos.com

Final Thoughts

Portugal is a country that rewards curiosity and punishes complacency, especially when it comes to your choices and your itinerary. While the tourist trail is filled with traps such as overpriced restaurants, elbow-to-elbow beaches, and seemingly beautiful attractions, the real magic lies just a handful of better informed decisions away. Instead of doing what everyone does and the internet tells you to do, skip the queues, dodge the selfie sticks, and embrace the real quieter corners and local secrets. Trust us: your taste buds, your wallet, and your sanity will thank you. Now, go and see Portugal like someone who knows what they’re doing, not just another face in the endless crowds.

12 Portuguese Idioms That Will Make You Smile

The more Portuguese we learn, the more it makes us smile. Building on our exploration of Portuguese culture through language, we’ve gathered twelve more delightful idioms that demonstrate the wit, wisdom, and warmth of Portuguese speakers. These expressions reveal deeper insights into Portuguese values from the importance of experience and authenticity to the gentle art of offering friendly advice.

These idioms are used in European Portuguese and will not only enhance your language skills but also help you connect more meaningfully with native speakers, just like our list of idioms that will make locals smile. Each funny phrase conjures up vivid imagery that makes them both memorable and endearing to use in conversation.

1. A galinha do vizinho sempre é mais gorda

English meaning – The grass is always greener on the other side

This wise idiom literally translates to “the neighbor’s chicken is always fatter,” serving as a gentle reminder that we often perceive others’ situations as better than our own. It reflects the universal human tendency to compare ourselves to others and find our own circumstances lacking.

Examples:

  • Estás sempre a queixar-te do teu trabalho, mas a galinha do vizinho sempre é mais gorda. (You’re always complaining about your job, but the grass is always greener on the other side.)
  • Não invejes a vida dos outros. A galinha do vizinho sempre é mais gorda, mas não conheces os problemas deles. (Don’t envy other people’s lives. The grass is always greener on the other side, but you don’t know their problems.)

2. Quem vê cara, não vê coração

English meaning – Don’t judge a book by its cover

Literally meaning “those who see faces don’t see hearts,” this poetic idiom reminds us that appearances can be deceiving. It emphasizes the Portuguese value of looking beyond surface appearances to understand someone’s true character or situation.

Examples:

  • Ela parece muito séria, mas é uma pessoa muito divertida. Quem vê cara, não vê coração. (She seems very serious, but she’s a very fun person. Don’t judge a book by its cover.)
  • Não julgues o novo colega apenas pela aparência. Quem vê cara, não vê coração. (Don’t judge the new colleague just by his appearance. Don’t judge a book by its cover.)

3. Ficar a ver navios

English meaning – To be left waiting in vain; to wait for something to happen, but it never materializes

This maritime-inspired expression literally means “to stay watching the ships” and captures the frustration of waiting for something that never materializes. It evokes the image of someone waiting at the harbor for a ship that never arrives.

Examples:

  • Marquei encontro com ele às três, mas fiquei a ver navios. (I arranged to meet him at three, but I was left waiting in vain.)
  • Prometeram aumentar-me o salário, mas fiquei a ver navios. (They promised to raise my salary, but I was left waiting in vain.)

4. Muitos anos a virar frangos

English meaning – To have many years of experience; to be an expert through long practice

Literally translating to “many years turning chickens,” this idiom refers to someone who has become an expert through extensive experience. It draws from the Portuguese tradition of grilling chicken, where the cook must skillfully turn the chicken to ensure even cooking.

Examples:

  • O Carlos é um excelente mecânico, tem muitos anos a virar frangos. (Carlos is an excellent mechanic, he has many years of experience.)
  • Ela cozinha muito bem, já tem muitos anos a virar frangos. (She cooks very well, she has many years of experience.)
Turning those chickens, DepositPhotos.com

5. Barata tonta

English meaning – Someone who is clumsy, disoriented, or acting foolishly

This amusing idiom literally means “dizzy cockroach” and perfectly captures the erratic, confused behavior of someone who doesn’t know what they’re doing. The image of a disoriented cockroach running around aimlessly makes this expression both vivid and memorable. Hopefully, you’ve never had to see a cockroach in real life, but something tells us that you know what we’re talking about!

Examples:

  • Ele andava pela loja como uma barata tonta, sem saber o que estava a procurar. (He was walking around the shop like a dizzy cockroach, not knowing what he was looking for.)
  • Depois do acidente, ficou como uma barata tonta durante alguns minutos. (After the accident, he was like a dizzy cockroach for a few minutes.)
“Dizzy Cockroach” in English

6. Alimentar um burro a pão de ló

English meaning – To treat someone better than they deserve; to waste good things on someone who doesn’t appreciate them

This colorful idiom literally means “to feed a donkey sponge cake,” suggesting the wasteful act of giving something precious to someone who cannot appreciate its value. It reflects the Portuguese practical wisdom about not wasting good things on those who don’t deserve them.

Examples:

  • Dar-lhe esse emprego foi como alimentar um burro a pão de ló. (Giving him that job was like feeding a donkey sponge cake.)
  • Comprar-lhe roupas caras é como alimentar um burro a pão de ló, ele não se importa com a qualidade. (Buying him expensive clothes is like feeding a donkey sponge cake, he doesn’t care about quality.)

7. Dar com a língua nos dentes

English meaning – To accidentally reveal a secret; to let the cat out of the bag

This idiom literally means “to hit the tongue against the teeth” and describes the moment when someone accidentally reveals information they were supposed to keep secret. The physical imagery suggests how words can slip out uncontrollably.

Examples:

  • Ia ser uma surpresa, mas ela deu com a língua nos dentes. (It was going to be a surprise, but she let the cat out of the bag.)
  • Tentei manter o segredo, mas acabei por dar com a língua nos dentes. (I tried to keep the secret, but I ended up accidentally revealing it.)

8. Pagar o pato

English meaning – To take the blame or punishment for something someone else did; to be the scapegoat or take the fall for someone else

Literally meaning “to pay for the duck,” this idiom describes the unfortunate situation of being held responsible for someone else’s actions or mistakes. It captures the injustice of having to face consequences when you’re not the one who caused the problem.

Examples:

  • O chefe zangou-se com toda a equipa, mas no final fui eu que paguei o pato. (The boss got angry with the whole team, but in the end I was the one who took the fall.)
  • Ela não fez nada de errado, mas está sempre a pagar o pato pelos erros dos colegas. (She didn’t do anything wrong, but she’s always taking the blame for her colleagues’ mistakes.)

9. Não ter papas na língua

English meaning – To be direct and frank; to speak one’s mind without hesitation

This expression literally means “not to have porridge on the tongue” and describes someone who speaks clearly and directly without mincing words. It suggests clarity of speech and frankness in communication.

Examples:

  • A diretora não tem papas na língua quando fala com os funcionários. (The director doesn’t mince words when speaking with employees.)
  • Gosto dela porque não tem papas na língua, diz sempre o que pensa. (I like her because she’s direct, she always says what she thinks.)

10. Ter debaixo da língua

English meaning – To have something on the tip of one’s tongue; to be about to remember something

This idiom literally means “to have under the tongue” and describes that frustrating moment when you almost remember something but can’t quite recall it. It captures the sensation of information being just out of reach.

Examples:

  • Tenho o nome dele debaixo da língua, mas não me lembro. (I have his name on the tip of my tongue, but I can’t remember it.)
  • A resposta está debaixo da língua, mas não consigo lembrar-me. (The answer is on the tip of my tongue, but I can’t remember it.)

11. Falar para o boneco

English meaning – To talk to someone who isn’t paying attention; to waste one’s breath

This expression literally means “to talk to the doll” and describes the frustrating experience of speaking to someone who isn’t listening or paying attention. It evokes the image of talking to an inanimate object that cannot respond.

Examples:

  • Estou aqui a explicar-te tudo e tu estás a falar para o boneco. (I’m here explaining everything to you and you’re not paying attention.)
  • É inútil dar-lhe conselhos, é como falar para o boneco. (It’s useless giving him advice, it’s like talking to someone who isn’t listening.)

12. Ser uma pessoa de poucas palavras

English meaning – To be a person of few words; to be someone who doesn’t talk much

This straightforward idiom describes someone who is naturally quiet and doesn’t speak unless necessary. It reflects the Portuguese appreciation for people who choose their words carefully and speak with purpose.

Examples:

  • O meu avô sempre foi uma pessoa de poucas palavras, mas quando falava, todos ouviam. (My grandfather was always a person of few words, but when he spoke, everyone listened.)
  • Ela é uma pessoa de poucas palavras, mas muito sábia. (She’s a person of few words, but very wise.)

These twelve idioms offer a wonderful window into Portuguese culture and thinking. From the practical wisdom of not wasting good things on those who don’t appreciate them, to the gentle reminder that appearances can deceive, each expression carries valuable life lessons wrapped in memorable imagery. Try using these in your conversations with Portuguese speakers. Their amused reactions will tell you that you’ve truly connected with the heart of the Portuguese language and culture!

6 Interesting Facts about Santo António, the Patron Saint of Lisbon

The Festival of Santo António on June 12 transforms Lisbon into a non-stop party of music, dance, romance, and religious devotion. But there is fascinating story behind the colorful marches, grilled sardines, and the group weddings parading through the streets – a saint who captured the hearts of Lisboners centuries ago and continues to be celebrated around the world.

Santo António, known internationally as Saint Anthony of Padua, holds a special place in Lisbon’s heart. His influence permeates daily life from matters of the heart to lost possessions. This makes him one of the most approachable and beloved saints in the Catholic faith. But who was Santo António and what makes him so beloved? Here are seven interesting facts about this remarkable figure who has become synonymous with Lisbon itself.

1. Santo António is actually not the official patron saint of Lisbon!

Perhaps the most surprising fact about Santo António’s role in Lisbon is that he technically shares his patron saint status under somewhat controversial circumstances. The official patron saint of Lisbon, according to the Catholic Church, is actually São Vicente (Saint Vincent). His statue stands proudly at Portas do Sol in Alfama, where he holds the symbol of the city – a ship crewed by two crows.

Why does Santo António outshine the official patron saint, São Vicente? Blame it on the weather! São Vicente’s feast day falls on January 22nd, which is hardly ideal weather for the outdoor partying that Lisboetas adore. Santo António’s feast day, June 13th, arrives at the perfect time of year for firing up the sardine grill and dancing in the streets!

This reveals something charming about Portuguese culture: while deeply respectful of tradition and faith, the people aren’t above making practical adjustments to be able come together as a community and celebrate. Santo António was essentially adopted by popular demand!

2. He was born right in the heart of Lisbon.

Unlike many patron saints who are adopted by cities with which they had little connection, Santo António has authentic Lisbon roots that run deep. Born in 1195, he entered the world just steps away from where the Sé Cathedral stands today, in the very heart of what was then a much smaller medieval city. The church that now bears his name, Igreja de Santo António, sits was essentially built right on top of his birthplace.

This really explains Lisbon’s devotion to Santo António. He is genuinely one of Lisbon’s own, a Lisbon boy who grew up to achieve international recognition for his holiness and wisdom. The fact that visitors can walk the same narrow streets where the young António once played gives his cult of devotion an intimacy that’s hard to replicate with imported saints.

The neighborhood around the Sé where Santo António was born retains much of its medieval character today. The winding streets, ancient buildings, and steep hillsides create an atmosphere where it’s easy to imagine life in the 12th century. During the June festivities, these same streets come alive with decorations and music celebrating Lisbon’s most famous son.

The entrance to Igreja de Santo António de Lisboa, Photo by Becky Gillespie

3. He was declared a saint less than a year after his death.

While Santo António was born and raised in Lisbon, his path to sainthood and international recognition came from Italy, specifically in the city of Padua.

After becoming a Franciscan friar, Santo António embarked on an extraordinary journey that took him through Morocco and France before ultimately leading him to Italy. His travels through Morocco connected him to the broader Mediterranean world and exposed him to different cultures and religious perspectives. This international experience shaped his worldview and contributed to his effectiveness as a teacher and preacher.

It was in Padua where Santo António truly flourished as a theologian and teacher. He taught at several European universities and earned recognition for his profound understanding of theology and his exceptional ability to communicate complex religious concepts to a variety of audiences – Santo António was truly a man of the people. His reputation as a scholar and holy man spread throughout Italy and beyond and established him as one of the most important religious figures of his era.

His Italian period also contributed to his rapid canonization. He was declared a saint less than a year after his death, an almost unprecedented speed that testified to his widespread reputation for holiness and miracle-working. This quick recognition by the Catholic Church helped establish his cult of devotion across Europe.

4. He’s the ultimate matchmaker saint.

Perhaps no aspect of Santo António’s reputation is more beloved in Portugal than his role as the matchmaker saint. This designation has transformed him into something of a celestial cupid and made him responsible for bringing couples together and ensuring happy marriages. The tradition is so strong that it has shaped one of Lisbon’s most distinctive and heartwarming traditions.

Since 1958, Lisbon has hosted the Casamentos de Santo António (Santo António’s Weddings), a remarkable event that takes place annually on June 12th, the day before the saint’s feast day. This mass wedding ceremony, where the civil ceremony happens in the Igreja de Santo António, allows couples with financial difficulties to celebrate their marriage with the city’s sponsorship. The Sé Cathedral serves as the venue for the religious part of the ceremony, and the couples feel special on their wedding day alongside multiple couples saying their vows simultaneously.

The sight of many couples in wedding attire, surrounded by family and friends, embodies the spirit of Santo António’s generosity. The event is also televised and allows all of Portugal to participate in these moments of happiness and hope. Throughout the year, young people pray to Santo António for help in finding love, and many credit him with bringing them together with their future spouses. Couples often visit his church to ask for his blessing on their relationships, and his feast day is considered an especially auspicious time for proposals and declarations of love.

Preparing for the Casamentos de Santo António, Amelia Monteiro – Lisbon street photographer, Flickr

5. He’s the go-to saint for lost things (and lost People and lost souls).

As if Santo António wasn’t already doing enough, he’s also internationally recognized as the patron saint of lost items, lost people, and lost souls. This makes him one of the most practically useful saints in the Catholic calendar, someone you can turn to whether you’ve misplaced your keys or lost your way in life. It also helps to make him immediately relatable for modern people. Countless Catholics around the world have whispered quick prayers to Santo António when searching for missing objects: “Santo António, Santo António, look around, something’s lost and must be found.” This simple prayer has been repeated in dozens of languages across continents.

As the patron of lost people, he’s also invoked by families searching for missing relatives, by travelers who have lost their way, and by anyone feeling disconnected from their community or purpose.

The “lost souls” aspect of his patronage speaks to his role as a spiritual guide for those struggling with faith, doubt, or moral confusion. His own journey from Portugal to Morocco to France to Italy demonstrates his understanding of spiritual searching and the winding paths that lead to enlightenment and peace.

Santo António of Lisbon, Stephan, I Kessler, Public Domain

6. His popularity spans continents and centuries.

Santo António’s influence extends far beyond the borders of Portugal, as we have already mentioned. But just how far?

It is estimated that there more than 65 municipalities, cities, or towns named after the saint, along with seven rivers, seven waterfalls, five mountains, two islands, and two lagoons. In Brazil alone, there are 38 municipalities with Santo António in their names. In the state of São Paulo, one researcher identified, more than ten waterways, two mountains, and one lagoon named after the beloved saint.

And that’s not even counting the churches! A 1981 survey by the Catholic Church in Brazil revealed 158 churches dedicated to St. António’s devotion in just the region from Santa Catarina to Espírito Santo including São Paulo.

This widespread popularity speaks to Santo António’s accessibility and relevance across different cultures and social contexts. People truly consider Santo António a saint who understands their daily struggles and aspirations and a saint for everyday people dealing with ordinary challenges.

A Saint for Modern Times

Unlike some saints whose stories seem distant and otherworldly, Santo António addresses the everyday concerns that continue to occupy our thoughts: love, loss, community, and the search for meaning.

His story embodies the Portuguese spirit in many ways. It is practical yet romantic, deeply traditional yet adaptable to changing times, locally rooted yet internationally minded. The fact that a 12th-century friar continues to inspire mass celebrations, televised weddings, and neighborhood competitions in the 21st century speaks to something enduring in his appeal.

In Santo António, Lisbon adopted a patron saint that is reflection of its own character: generous, romantic, welcoming, and eternally optimistic about the power of human connection.

The Lisbon Metro Will Shut Down at 8:00 pm on June 12 – The Biggest Night of Santos Populares Celebrations!

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If you’re planning to celebrate Santo António tonight in Lisbon, major transportation disruptions on the eve of Santo António will significantly impact your evening plans. Here’s what you need to know:

Metro Service Shutting Down Tonight

The Lisbon Metro will close all stations at 8:00 PM tonight instead of running until 3:00 AM as it usually does on the night of June 12. This early closure is due to a worker assembly scheduled for tonight, which the company describes as having disproportionate impacts during one of the city’s biggest celebrations.

All four metro lines (Yellow, Green, Blue, and Red) will be affected by this closure.

Major Road Closures in Lisbon Begin at 6 PM

Starting at 6:00 PM tonight, extensive road closures will take effect across central Lisbon:

  • Avenida da Liberdade will be completely closed to traffic for the Popular Marches parade
  • The Marquês de Pombal area including Rua António Augusto de Aguiar and Fontes Pereira de Melo
  • Braamcamp and Duque de Palmela streets will be cut off
  • Access to Rossio will be blocked
  • The Sé area around the Lisbon Cathedral will have circulation restrictions from 12:00 PM to 8:00 PM for the Santo António weddings.

These closures will remain in effect until 8:00 AM Friday morning.

Bus and Tram Services Will Also Be Affected

Carris workers are on a 24-hour strike today, which will impact bus and tram services throughout the city. While minimum services have been decreed by arbitration, expect significant delays and reduced frequency.

How to Prepare for Tonight

If you need the Lisbon metro to get home, plan to leave celebrations before 8 PM. Bring extra cash for taxis since Uber and Bolt will be available but expect inflated prices and limited availability. Consider staying in central Lisbon until public transport resumes Friday morning if you’re able to stay up all night.

For personal safety, wear comfortable walking shoes since you may need to walk home. Stay hydrated and be careful about consuming too much alcohol if you have to walk all the way home. Don’t carry valuable items or large amounts of cash with you.

Police Presence and Safety

The PSP has deployed multiple units throughout the city, including visibility patrols, traffic control, and the Special Police Unit to increase security during the festivities tonight. They strongly recommend using public transport when available and avoiding parking in prohibited areas that could block emergency vehicles.

Carris Buses May Be Free from 6:00 PM Tonight

As a response to the last-minute cancellation of services, the mayor of Lisbon, Carlos Moedas, has asked Carris to make bus transport free from 6 pm and until 8:00 a.m. on Friday, June 13 to make up for the lack of services from the Lisbon Metro, but this has not yet been confirmed at the time of this writing. 

Impact on Lisbon Residents

It’s particularly disappointing that the timing of the union trade meetings and strike coincides with one of Lisbon’s most cherished cultural events. The decision by Carris workers to strike and the Metro’s subsequent closure effectively deprives residents living on the outskirts of Lisbon of fully enjoying Santos Populares without facing impossible choices: staying out all night until services resume, paying exorbitant taxi fares, or attempting to walk all the way home, which is sometimes impossible depending on the route.

For many residents with health or mobility issues, walking home in the middle of the night simply isn’t an option. It’s deeply unfortunate that the public transport companies are essentially punishing the very people who depend on their services daily and denying them equal access to participate in their city’s traditional festivities.

Stay safe and have a great Santos Populares evening, despite the circumstances.

12 Incredible Facts about Manuel II – The Last King of Portugal

Manuel II’s story reads like a tragic novel. He was a young prince thrust into power during one of the most turbulent periods in Portuguese history, only to witness the end of a monarchy that had ruled for centuries. Known as both “The Patriot” and “The Unfortunate,” his brief reign marked the final chapter of royal rule in Portugal.

1. He never expected to be king.

Born on November 15, 1889, in the opulent royal palace of Belém in Lisbon, Manuel Maria Filipe Carlos Amélio Luís Miguel Rafael Gabriel Gonzaga Xavier Francisco de Assis Eugénio de Bragança e Saxe-Coburgo-Gotha (yes, you read that right!) was the second son of King Carlos I, which meant the throne was never supposed to be his. His older brother Prince Luís Filipe was the heir apparent groomed from birth to become the next king.

This birth order actually worked in Manuel’s favor during his formative years. While his brother underwent intensive political training and statecraft education, Manuel was free to pursue a more well-rounded royal education. He excelled in literature, history, and languages and developed the intellectual curiosity that would later serve him well during his years in exile. His education also included physical disciplines like fencing and navigation, skills that reflected the traditional military heritage of Portuguese royalty. The young prince showed a particular aptitude for scholarly pursuits, which would ultimately define his later life when the crown was no longer his burden to bear.

Manuel II at 12 years of age, Public Domain, Wikimedia Commons

2. His father and brother were killed in a devastating assassination that changed everything.

On February 1, 1908, Manuel’s world shattered in an instant during what became known as the Lisbon Regicide. The royal family was returning from their estate at Vila Viçosa when tragedy struck in broad daylight at the Terreiro do Paço, one of Lisbon’s most prominent public spaces also known as Praça do Comércio. Republican assassins, driven by mounting frustration with the monarchy’s authoritarian policies, opened fire on the open carriage carrying the royal family.

The attack was swift and devastating. King Carlos I was killed instantly, while Crown Prince Luís Filipe, though initially surviving the first shots, died shortly thereafter from his wounds. Manuel, sitting in the same carriage, witnessed the brutal murder of his father and brother while somehow escaping with only minor injuries. The traumatic experience would haunt him for the rest of his life, but in that moment, the 18-year-old prince had no time to grieve. He was suddenly the King of Portugal and inherited both a throne that had become a target and a kingdom teetering on the precipice of revolution.

3. His reign lasted only two years.

Manuel II’s time on the throne was remarkably brief. He only ruled from 1908 to 1910. However, those 26 months were packed with more political drama and upheaval than many monarchs face in decades. Portugal in 1908 was a nation in crisis: the economy was stagnating, political parties were deeply divided, and the republican movement had gained significant momentum among intellectuals, military officers, and the urban working class.

The challenges facing the young king were immense. The monarchy had lost much of its traditional support base, and many Portuguese citizens viewed the royal family as out of touch with the nation’s struggles. Economic hardship was widespread, with Portugal lagging behind other European nations in industrialization and modernization. Social unrest was common, and the republican movement offered an appealing alternative to many who had lost faith in monarchical rule. Despite these overwhelming obstacles, Manuel attempted to navigate the political minefield with a maturity that belied his young age, though ultimately the forces arrayed against the monarchy proved too powerful to overcome.

4. He fired the controversial Prime Minister as one of his first acts as king.

One of Manuel’s first and most significant acts as king was dismissing João Franco, the authoritarian prime minister whose harsh policies and dictatorial methods had intensified public anger against the monarchy. Franco had ruled with an iron fist, both suspending constitutional guarantees and governing by decree. This had alienated broad segments of Portuguese society and strengthened the republican cause.

The decision to remove Franco was both politically astute and personally brave for the young monarch. Franco had been his father’s chosen minister, and dismissing him was essentially a repudiation of his father’s political legacy. In Franco’s place, Manuel appointed Admiral Francisco Joaquim Ferreira do Amaral to lead a coalition government that included members from both major parties known as the Regenerators and the Progressists. This move represented Manuel’s attempt to return to constitutional governance and heal the deep political wounds that had been festering under Franco’s authoritarian rule. However, the damage to the monarchy’s reputation had already been done.

5. He tried to make peace with republicans.

Unlike many monarchs faced with opposition, Manuel II actively sought dialogue with republican leaders. He demonstrated a political sophistication that was remarkable for someone so young and inexperienced. He recognized that the old ways of ruling were no longer sustainable in a rapidly changing world where democratic ideals were gaining ground across Europe.

The young king made efforts included attempts to expand political participation, reduce royal prerogatives, and create a more inclusive system of governance. Manuel understood that Portugal needed to evolve with the times or risk being swept away by the tide of republican sentiment. He even considered the possibility of transforming Portugal into a constitutional monarchy similar to those in Britain or other European nations. Unfortunately, the republican movement had already gained too much momentum, and many of its leaders wanted complete political transformation and the end of monarchical rule altogether.

6. The October 1910 Revolution ended Manuel II’s reign.

The final blow came on October 5, 1910 when a carefully orchestrated military uprising supported by civilian republicans erupted in Lisbon. The revolution began in the early hours of the morning when republican forces seized key points throughout the capital city. The warship Adamastor, which was positioned in the Tagus River, turned its guns on the Necessidades Palace where Manuel was residing. This sent a clear and unmistakable message that the monarchy’s time had come to an end.

As cannon fire echoed through the streets and revolutionary forces took control of government buildings, it became clear that Manuel’s position had become completely untenable. Rather than risk a civil war that would bring tremendous suffering to the Portuguese people, the young king made the difficult but honorable decision to abdicate his throne and leave the country. His departure marked both the end of his personal reign and the conclusion of nearly eight centuries of monarchical rule in Portugal.

7. He escaped Portugal on a British naval vessel.

Manuel’s departure from Portugal was as dramatic as his brief reign. On the morning of October 5, 1910, as revolutionary forces tightened their grip on Lisbon, Manuel and his mother, Queen Amélie, made a desperate flight from the capital. First, they sought refuge at the National Palace in Mafra, but even this historic royal residence proved unsafe as republican forces advanced.

The royal family ultimately made their way to the small fishing town of Ericeira, northwest of Lisbon, where they boarded the royal yacht Amélia. From there, they sailed to safety aboard a British warship anchored in the Tagus River, which was an ironic end given Portugal’s historic alliance with Britain. The young king took one last look at the Portuguese coastline as the ship carried him away from the only home he had ever known. He was just 20 years old, and he would never again set foot on Portuguese soil. The sight of the last King of Portugal sailing into exile marked the end of an era that had begun with the founding of the Portuguese kingdom in the 12th century.

8. He became a distinguished scholar in exile.

Rather than wallowing in bitterness or plotting a return to power like many deposed monarchs, Manuel II channeled his considerable intellect and energy into scholarly pursuits that would benefit Portuguese culture for generations to come. He settled in Twickenham, near London, in a modest but comfortable home that he transformed into a center of Portuguese learning and culture. The house became known for its remarkable library, which Manuel painstakingly assembled over the years, collecting rare Portuguese books, manuscripts, and historical documents.

During his exile, he wrote “Early Portuguese Books, 1489–1600,” a three-volume monument to Portuguese literary and cultural heritage. This comprehensive bibliography took years of meticulous research and scholarship and remains an invaluable resource for historians, bibliographers, and anyone interested in Portuguese culture and literature.

King Manuel II of Portugal while living in England, Public Domain, Wikimedia Commons

9. He married into German nobility.

In 1913, three years after his exile began, Manuel married Princess Augusta Victoria of Hohenzollern-Sigmaringen. The wedding was a significant social event among European nobility and was attended by representatives from royal houses across the continent who still recognized Manuel’s legitimate claim to the Portuguese throne.

Augusta Victoria was a woman of considerable intelligence and character, and she proved to be a devoted companion to Manuel throughout their years together. The couple shared interests in literature, history, and culture, and Augusta Victoria supported Manuel’s scholarly endeavors while also engaging in charitable work within the Portuguese exile community in London. Their marriage, though it took place far from the Portuguese soil that Manuel could never again call home, provided him with stability and companionship during what could have been very lonely years in exile.

Manuel II of Portugal in exile and his wife Augusta Victoria of Hohenzollern-Sigmaringen, Public Domain, Wikimedia Commons

10. He had no children.

One of the most poignant and historically significant aspects of Manuel’s story is that he and Princess Augusta Victoria never had children, despite nearly two decades of marriage. This childlessness carried profound implications that extended far beyond personal disappointment. It meant that, when Manuel died, the direct royal line that had ruled Portugal for centuries would come to an end and symbolically closed the book on the Portuguese monarchy forever.

The absence of an heir also meant that Manuel could never harbor realistic hopes of a restoration, as there would be no son to carry on his claim or to potentially benefit from any future political changes in Portugal. This reality may have contributed to Manuel’s peaceful acceptance of his fate and his decision to dedicate himself to scholarly rather than political pursuits. In a very real sense, Manuel was not just the last King of Portugal to rule, but the last King of Portugal, period.

11. He died young and far from home.

Manuel II’s life was cut tragically short when he died on July 2, 1932, at just 42 years old, after succumbing to complications from a throat infection that developed into a more serious condition. His death occurred at his home in Twickenham, surrounded by his beloved books and manuscripts but far from the Portuguese landscapes of his youth. The irony was not lost on observers that a man who had spent his exile years preserving Portuguese culture and literature would die without ever again seeing the country that had shaped his identity.

His funeral in England was a dignified affair that reflected both his royal status and his scholarly achievements. The ceremony was attended by members of European royalty, exiled Portuguese nobles, and British scholars who had come to respect his intellectual contributions. Representatives from Portuguese communities throughout Europe came to pay their respects to the man who, despite losing his throne, had never stopped serving as an ambassador for Portuguese culture.

12. Portugal was one of the first monarchies to fall.

When Manuel fled in 1910, Europe still had a lot of monarchies. At the time of Manuel’s birth in 1889, only Switzerland and France were republics on the continent. Portugal’s republican revolution thus represented an early wave in what would become a much larger transformation of European political systems.

The Portuguese Republic established in 1910 would serve as a model and inspiration for other republican movements across Europe, especially in the aftermath of World War I when several major monarchies would collapse. Manuel’s overthrow was part of a broader wave of democratic movements that would reshape the entire continent.

What Happened to the Portuguese Royal Family?

Following Manuel II’s death without heirs in 1932, the question of royal succession fell to the constitutional rules governing the Portuguese crown. According to these laws, the throne would pass to the nearest legitimate male relative with Portuguese nationality from a collateral line of the royal family.

This succession passed to the descendants of Dom Miguel I, who had been Manuel’s great-great-uncle and had a claim to the throne during the 19th-century civil wars. Dom Miguel’s line had been in exile since the 1830s, but they maintained their claim to royal status.

Dom Duarte Nuno, a descendant of Dom Miguel I, became the head of the Portuguese Royal House after Manuel II’s death. When Dom Duarte Nuno died in 1976, leadership passed to his eldest son, Dom Duarte Pio, who was born in Switzerland in 1945.

Today’s Portuguese Royal Family

Dom Duarte Pio currently serves as the Duke of Braganza and head of the Portuguese Royal House. In 1995, he married Isabel Inês de Castro Curvello de Herédia in what was the first royal wedding to take place on Portuguese soil since 1886. The couple has three children: Prince Afonso (born 1996), who holds the title Prince of Beira and works in asset management in Geneva, Infanta Maria Francisca (born 1997), who married in 2023 and previously worked in communications, and Infante Dinis (born 1999), who studies International Relations and is developing a consulting business.

Duarte Pio of Braganza, Elekes Andor, Wikimedia Commons

The family was allowed to return to Portugal in the 1950s when the laws of exile were finally repealed. Dom Duarte Pio has dedicated himself to cultural and charitable work. He played a notable role in advocating for East Timor’s independence and was even granted Timorese citizenship in recognition of his efforts.

While Portugal remains a republic with no plans to restore the monarchy, the Braganza family continues to serve as cultural ambassadors for Portuguese heritage and maintains connections with royal houses across Europe. They represent a living link to Portugal’s monarchical past while adapting to their role in the modern democratic nation that emerged from the revolution that ended Manuel II’s brief and tragic reign over a century ago.

Let’s Take a Walk through Baixa-Chiado, Lisbon’s Most Iconic Neighborhood!

Welcome to one of Lisbon’s most famous and historic neighborhoods, where enchantment pours out of every door. The Baixa-Chiado district combines the elegance of Pombaline architecture with the bohemian spirit of old Lisbon. It literally feels like a living museum as you walk around and wend your way through the narrow alleys, centuries-old churches, and into the very soul of Portuguese culture.

We’ve put together a self-guided walking tour so you can get to know this spirited neighborhood on your own time. We will begin and end in roughly the same place. Let’s begin!

Starting Point: A Brasileira – The Poets’ Corner

Allow 30 minutes

Begin your journey at the iconic A Brasileira, the legendary café that has been serving coffee since 1905. This Art Nouveau gem on Rua Garrett was once the beating heart of Lisbon’s intellectual scene. The bronze statue of Fernando Pessoa sitting at an outdoor table marks the spot where Portugal’s greatest poet held court with fellow writers and thinkers and makes for a cute photo opportunity.

Step inside to admire the ornate mirrors, gilded details, and the original roasting machine. Order a bica (espresso) and a pastel de nata while soaking in the atmosphere that inspired generations of Portuguese literature. The café’s name pays homage to Brazil and reflects Portugal’s deep colonial connections that shaped the nation’s identity. 

Café A Brasileira do Chiado, Vitor Oliveira, Flickr

Livraria Bertrand – The World’s Oldest Bookstore

2-minute walk to Rua Garrett

Return to the heart of Chiado to visit Livraria Bertrand, officially recognized by Guinness World Records as the world’s oldest operating bookstore. Founded in 1732, this literary institution has survived the devastating 1755 earthquake, political upheavals, and the digital revolution.

The narrow aisles are packed floor-to-ceiling with books in Portuguese, English, and other languages. The bookstore is designed from front to back with the room numbers on the floor also telling you what to expect in each room. Famous writers like Eça de Queirós and Camilo Castelo Branco once browsed these same shelves, and today you can find everything from contemporary Portuguese literature to rare first editions. There is a lovely café in the very last room if your bica at A Brasileira wasn’t enough! 

Livraria Bertrand, Christoph Diewald, Flickr

Church of Our Lady of the Loreto of the Italians 

3-minute walk to Largo do Chiado

The Church of Our Lady of the Loreto of the Italians tells the story of Lisbon’s historic Italian community. Built in 1518 and rebuilt after the 1755 earthquake, this church has served Italian merchants, diplomats, and immigrants for over 500 years.

The intimate interior features Italian marble and artwork donated by wealthy Italian families. The church still conducts masses in Italian and maintains its role as the spiritual home for Lisbon’s Italian community. The baroque altar and the delicate frescoes create an atmosphere that feels more Mediterranean than Atlantic.

Igreja do Loreto, Wikimedia Commons

Basilica of Our Lady of the Martyrs 

4-minute walk to Largo do Carmo

The Basilica of Our Lady of the Martyrs (Basílica dos Mártires) is a powerful testament to Portuguese resilience. Originally built to commemorate the Christian martyrs who died during the Moorish occupation, the current structure dates from the 18th century reconstruction following the great earthquake.

This church played a crucial role in Portuguese history. It was here that prayers were offered for the success of the 1974 Carnation Revolution that peacefully ended decades of dictatorship. The baroque interior features beautiful tile work and a stunning wooden ceiling that seems to float above the nave.

Basilica of Our Lady of the Martyrs, Andrzej Otrębski, Wikimedia Commons

Carmo Archaeological Museum – Resilience in the Ruins

1-minute walk, Largo do Carmo

Speaking of resilience, here is Lisbon’s greatest example! The Carmo Archaeological Museum is housed in the hauntingly beautiful ruins of the Carmo Convent. The 1755 earthquake destroyed the roof and much of the structure, but the Gothic arches and walls remain as a powerful reminder of nature’s devastating force.

Walking through the roofless nave, open to the sky, creates a uniquely moving experience. The museum houses an eclectic collection of artifacts, including prehistoric tools, Roman mosaics, and medieval sculptures. The most fascinating exhibit is the collection of ancient mummies, including a Peruvian child mummy that draws visitors from around the world.

The peaceful cloisters, with their delicate stone tracery, provide a contemplative space where you can reflect on the impermanence of human achievement and the enduring power of faith. The Carmo rooftop shows outdoor summer movies right next door and the outdoor space under the roofless nave hosts a number of concerts throughout the year.

Entrance to Carmo Convent, Photo by Becky Gillespie

Church of the Blessed Sacrament – Get Ready for a Spectacular Ceiling 

7-minute walk to Rua do Sacramento

The Church of the Blessed Sacrament (Igreja do Santíssimo Sacramento) houses one of Lisbon’s most breathtaking artistic treasures. While the exterior appears modest, the interior ceiling is a masterpiece of trompe-l’oeil painting that creates the illusion of an open sky.

Portuguese artist Pedro Alexandrino de Carvalho spent years creating this optical illusion, where the painted ceiling appears to extend infinitely upward. Stand in the center of the nave and slowly look up. The effect is so convincing that many visitors experience vertigo. The surrounding chapels feature intricate woodwork and religious paintings that demonstrate the wealth and devotion of 18th-century Portuguese nobility.

Igreja do Santíssimo Sacramento, Ardfern, Wikimedia Commons

Church of Our Lady of the Incarnation 

6-minute walk down Rua da Trindade

Continue your spiritual journey to the Church of Our Lady of the Incarnation (Igreja da Encarnação), a hidden gem renowned for its spectacular azulejo tiles. Built in the 17th century, this church showcases the finest examples of Portuguese ceramic artistry.

The blue and white tiles create a visual narrative of religious scenes that covers nearly every surface. The main altarpiece, carved from Brazilian jacaranda wood, gleams with gold leaf. Notice how the architects used optical illusions in the ceiling paintings to make the space appear larger than it actually is, a common technique in Portuguese Baroque design.

Igreja de Nossa Senhora da Encarnação, Vitor Oliveira, Flickr

Church of Saint Roch – A Golden Opportunity 

5-minute walk up to Largo Trindade Coelho

Our tour of Baixa Chiado’s churches culminates the Church of Saint Roch (Igreja de São Roque), a masterpiece of Portuguese Baroque architecture. Built by the Jesuits in the 16th century, this church survived the 1755 earthquake that devastated much of Lisbon.

The austere exterior gives no hint of the treasures within. Step inside to marvel at the Chapel of St. John the Baptist, considered one of the most expensive chapels ever built. Commissioned from Rome in the 18th century, it features precious stones, gold, silver, and bronze work that took six years to complete. The intricate azulejo tiles tell stories of Portuguese saints and biblical scenes. Keep on eye out for the levels of relics on both sides of the main chapel. You can also visit the Museum of the Church of Saint Roch to see more of the actual relics up close. 

Santo António in Lisbon’s Church of Saint Roch, Photo by Becky Gillespie

Brotéria – A Peaceful Coffee Stop in a Beautiful Building

Right next door to Church of Saint Roch

After the sensory overload of São Roque, go next door to Brotéria for a moment of peaceful reflection. This charming space, used as a library, study center, art gallery, and bookshop, among other things, is housed in a former Jesuit building. It is free to enter and offers something rare in Lisbon – a quiet back terrace garden where you can escape the crowds.

Order a coffee and a slice of homemade cake while sitting among the flowering plants in the shade. The café takes its name from a scientific magazine published by Portuguese Jesuits that has been publishing articles now for over 120 years! It is the perfect spot to journal about your discoveries or simply take a breather before continuing on our tour. Don’t eat much here because we have more food stops coming soon!

Hanging out in the lovely terrace of Bróteria, Photo by Becky Gillespie

Cinema Ideal – Cute Independent Movie Theater

8-minute walk downhill to Rua do Loreto

Going back downhill toward Chiado, you’ll discover Cinema Ideal, a beautifully restored Art Deco movie theater that opened in 1950. With its original red velvet seats and ornate ceiling, it represents the golden age of Portuguese cinema.

The theater survived decades of decline and was lovingly restored to its former glory, complete with original 35mm projection equipment. Today it screens art films, documentaries, and classic Portuguese cinema. Even if you can’t catch a screening, peek inside to admire the vintage lobby with its geometric patterns and period light fixtures.

Photo by Becky Gillespie

Casa das Velas Loreto – Lisbon’s Oldest Continuing Shop

2-minute walk from Cinema Ideal

Just a short stroll down Rua do Loreto brings you to Casa das Velas Loreto, a remarkable piece of living history. This unassuming shop holds the distinction of being Lisbon’s oldest continuously operating business and has been crafting candles for over 230 years! The same family has been keeping the flame alive since 1789, which makes it one of Europe’s oldest family businesses.

The tiny shop overflows with handmade candles of every size and color, from simple votives to elaborate church candles. The sweet scent of beeswax fills the air as you watch artisans work with techniques passed down from generation to generation. It’s a demonstration of Portuguese craftsmanship and family dedication that has survived revolutions, earthquakes, and modernity itself.

Casa das Velas Loreto, Jeremy Thompson, Wikimedia Commons

O Trevo – Following in Anthony Bourdain’s Footsteps

5-minute walk through Rua do Carmo

Navigate through the bustling pedestrian streets to reach O Trevo, a no-frills tasca that gained international fame when Anthony Bourdain declared it served one of the best bifanas (pork sandwiches) in Lisbon. This tiny establishment, barely larger than a closet, has been serving hungry locals since 1967.

The magic happens behind a simple counter where pork is marinated in white wine, garlic, and bay leaves, then grilled to perfection and stuffed into a crusty roll. Watch the controlled chaos as the owner assembles sandwich after sandwich with practiced precision. The walls are covered with photos of celebrity visitors, but the real stars are the regular customers who’ve been coming here for decades.

O Trevo, Photo by Becky Gillespie

Manteigaria – The Best Pastel de Nata (Don’t Tell Pastéis de Bélem)

1-minute walk from O Trevo

One minute down the street from O Trevo brings you to Manteigaria, where you’ll witness the art of pastel de nata making through floor-to-ceiling windows and make the perfect dessert stop! This bakery chain has perfected the ancient recipe for Portugal’s most famous pastry using traditional methods in a contemporary setting.

Watch the bakers roll paper-thin pastry, fill delicate molds with custard, and slide trays into blazing ovens. The result is a crispy, flaky shell filled with creamy custard that’s slightly caramelized on top. Enjoy one warm with a shake of cinnamon and powdered sugar while it’s still crackling from the oven. “Manteiga” means “butter” in Portuguese and it is the sweet buttery taste of the pastel de nata that we believe (dare we say it!) is even better than Pastéis de Belém.

Manteigaria, The best pastel de nata in Lisbon?, Photo by Becky Gillespie

A Tasca do Chico – Fado Dinner Finale 

4-minute walk back up to Rua do Diário de Notícias

End your historic journey at A Tasca do Chico, one of Lisbon’s most authentic fado venues. This tiny tavern, barely large enough for a dozen tables, has been serving traditional Portuguese food and hosting impromptu fado performances since 1985.

The walls are covered with fado memorabilia, old photographs, and handwritten lyrics. Order traditional dishes like chouriço assado (grilled sausage), queijo da serra (mountain cheese), or linguiça (spiced sausage) paired with a glass of Portuguese wine. As the evening progresses, local fado singers often arrive spontaneously to perform this uniquely Portuguese art form.

Listen to the melancholic melodies that speak of saudade, that untranslatable Portuguese word meaning a deep emotional state of longing for something absent. The intimate setting, with singers performing right next to diners, creates an authentic connection to the Portuguese soul that no concert hall can replicate.

One final thing: it is best to get reservations to Tasca do Chico and it doesn’t open until 7:00 PM. Please plan accordingly!

A Tasca do Chico, Oma Klonkmann, Wikimedia Commons

Practical Tips 

  • Churches are typically open 9 AM – 5 PM
  • Restaurants open for lunch at noon, dinner at 7 PM
  • Tasca do Chico opens at 7 PM
  • Bring comfortable shoes (no heels or flip flops!)
  • Do not wear a hat inside any of the churches!

Take your time, talk to locals, and allow yourself to get pleasantly lost in the narrow streets. Sometimes, the most beautiful discoveries happen when you’re not looking for them.

How did you enjoy the tour? Let us know in the comments!

Extend Your Tour

Want to discover even more of Lisbon? Check out these tours!

Heart of Lisbon Food Tour: Baixa, Chiado & Bairro Alto

Lisbon Revelation Tour

Private Lisbon Walking Tour

Lisbon Fado Experience: Walking Tour, Dinner and Live Music Show

Discover the Ribeira das Vinhas Trail in Cascais – Less Than One Hour from Lisbon

Just steps away from the center of Cascais, a 40-minute drive from Central Lisbon, lies the Ribeira das Vinhas Trail (Vineyards Trail), a 7-km hike lovingly restored by the Municipality of Cascais that introduces you to the natural beauty of this gorgeous region. 

A Path Through History

For generations, this historic route served as a vital lifeline connecting the bustling coastal village of Cascais with the rural agricultural communities of Cobre, Pampilheira, Murches, Birre, and Zambujeiro. The trail facilitated essential trade between the interior farming settlements and the fishing communities along the coast. Local residents would traverse this path carrying flour, cheese, milk, bread, and fresh vegetables to the Cascais markets, while washerwomen would make their way to village streams with laundry loaded on donkeys.

The waterway originates high in the Serra de Sintra mountains and flows all the way to Praia dos Pescadores on the coast. While the vineyards that once gave the stream its name have largely disappeared (the victims of a devastating phylloxera plague over a century ago), quince trees still occasionally dot the landscape and has given the waterway its local nickname “Marmeleiro River” (Quince River).

Natural Beauty and Wildlife

Today’s seven-kilometer trail winds through pristine natural beauty and welcomes walkers, cyclists and even equestrians to enjoy this peaceful escape where birdsong fills the air and wildlife rabbits can be spotted darting through the underbrush. You may even see sheep grazing or discover small gardens with a variety of flowers blooming depending on the season. 

Olive and orange trees provide shade, while generous local farmers often leave boxes of fresh fruit near the trail for passersby to enjoy.

The Vineyards Trail (Ribeira das Vinhas), Cascais, Portugal, Pierre Nordström, Flickr

An Open Art Museum Along the Way

One of the trail’s most unique features is its collection of 52 decorative drainage covers, transformed into works of art by urban artist Tiago Hacker. These creative installations depict the region’s native birds, mammals, and reptiles, as well as traditional Saloia houses that celebrate Cascais’ agricultural heritage and strengthen the community’s connection to its roots.

The trail also reveals its rich history along the way as you pass caves along the route that once provided refuge for locals during pirate raids. The Gruta de Porto Covo cave, in particular, contains prehistoric evidence of human habitation, while natural formations like Poço Velho highlight the area’s geological heritage.

Maintaining the Trail and Environmental Stewardship

Recent expansions have enhanced the trail’s accessibility and reach. The path now extends over seven kilometers and creates a green corridor that connects Cascais village directly to the Sintra-Cascais Natural Park. This expansion includes passage through the Penhas de Marmeleiro Urban Park in Murches, which makes it possible to reach Quinta do Pisão via this scenic route.

In April 2025, a new wooden walkway was added near the Encosta da Carreira neighborhood and now provides residents with improved access to this beloved trail. This addition reflects the municipality’s commitment to making the trail accessible to all community members.

The trail restoration project encompasses significant environmental improvements. Work has included rehabilitating the riparian gallery, clearing the streambed, removing accumulated waste, and establishing new vegetation along the banks. Water retention basins have been strategically installed to help prevent flooding, making this one of Cascais’ most important ecological corridors.

The Vineyards Trail (Ribeira das Vinhas), Cascais, Portugal, Pierre Nordström, Flickr

Planning Your Visit

The Ribeira das Vinhas Trail begins conveniently behind the Cascais Village Market, which makes it easily accessible for both locals and tourists. You can leave your car at the Cascais Village Market and use paid parking and access toilets, cafés, and restaurants. Multiple access points along the route allow visitors to customize the length of their hike. 

The route connects Cascais to Quinta do Pisão and is 7 km one way and another 7 km back, making it a circular route. The 7 km leading to Quinta do Pisão is gentle on paths built by the Cascais Town Council

We suggest you bring a snack, there will be a small picnic at Quinta do Pisão and then we’ll walk the 7 km back.

Pack a water bottle, wear comfortable shoes, and prepare to discover why the Ribeira das Vinhas Trail has become one of Cascais’ most beloved attractions. In a world increasingly dominated by concrete and screens, this pathway offers something precious: a genuine connection to nature, history, and the laid-back rhythms of Portuguese life!

Want More Cascais?

Check out these tours in the region:

From Cascais: Roca Cape, Ursa Beach, Sintra, Quinta da Regaleira

Half-Day Tour in Cascais / Sintra with Brunch and Wine Tasting

Relaxed E-Bike in the Backroads of Cascais and Sintra

Stop Waiting for the Bus in Lisbon! Here’s How to Know Exactly When It Will Arrive

Anyone who has spent time navigating Lisbon’s public transportation system knows the frustration of standing at a bus or a tram stop, wondering if the next bus will arrive in two minutes or forty. As someone who lives in a neighborhood that doesn’t have a metro stop, I know all too well the pain of waiting for a bus and having no idea when it will show up.  

Tourists have it even worse because they sometimes don’t even know where to get the bus or how the bus routes work. Fortunately, the Carris transportation company, which handles the buses and trams in Lisbon (NOT the metro) has recently completed a major update to their CARRISway app.

I first wrote about CARRISway in 2024 when the app (available for download on the App Store and Google Play) started allowing residents with Viva or Navegante cards to renew their monthly train passes with the app using NFC technology instead of only at a ticket machine. I am happy to say that Carris has now gone one step further and updated the app with real-time updates of bus arrival times. This is especially helpful at night when there are very few buses. Knowing exactly when your bus will arrive can help you plan the best time to leave the bar and stand at the bus stop for as little time as possible.

How Does It Work?

When you first open CARRISway, click on “Rotas & Carreiras” to access the Bus Routes and Lines. Then, click on the blue location pin icon to see the bus stops marked with gray circles around you. When you click on a gray circle, you can see the next buses arriving at the stop in order of arrival. For example, if three bus lines stop at the nearest bus stop, you will see the bus line that arrives first at the top of the list and the time that the bus is expected to arrive.

By clicking on one of the bus routes, you can see the next four buses on that route scheduled to arrive at the respective bus stop and you can even click “Ver mais horários” to see all of the scheduled arrivals for the entire day for that particular bus route.

It is important to know that “Sentido” means “Direction.” For example, bus route 742 runs in two directions, towards B. Madre Deus or Pólo Universitário Ajuda. Pay attention to the “Sentido” that appears when you click on the different bus stops in CARRISway to make sure that you are going to take the bus in the right direction!

    

Improvements Still Needed

While CARRISway has made significant improvements and provides useful real-time bus and tram information, it still has a long way to go in terms of functionality. First of all, tourists are completely unfamiliar with bus routes and where they go. The CARRISway app can not help you find the route you need to get from one point to another. In our opinion, it is best to use Google or Apple Maps in combination with the CARRISway app to have the best experience. Google Maps, for example, can tell you which bus routes (and the direction or “sentido”) you need to take. After locating the closest bus stop that Google Maps suggests, open CARRISway and locate the same bus stop to see when the bus is REALLY scheduled to arrive. Google and Apple Maps do not know the actual time of arrival of Lisbon buses, but CARRISway can sync to actual real-time data provided by the CARRIS transport network.

By using these two apps in tandem, you can master the art of catching a bus with almost no wait times in Lisbon. Once you get on the bus, you cannot guarantee your arrival time to your desired location, but at least you will be on your way – and for a fair price, compared to paying for a taxi or using a rideshare app. CARRISway will let you know if any buses are even coming to your stop. This happens a lot at night when the bus route has already finished for the day, but the lack of signage at a bus stop can make this very unclear.

Once you are onboard, you can also pay using contactless technology, another innovation recently implemented by CARRIS, which really does do their best to continually improve the Lisbon public transport system.

Looking Forward

The CARRISway app has made substantial improvements, but there’s still room for improvement. The interface could be more intuitive and better integrate with planning a journey from Point A to Point B. However, the current updates are a significant step forward for anyone regularly using Lisbon’s public transportation system. After trying the CARRISway app myself several times, I can say that it is even more accurate than the signs installed at many Lisbon bus stops that frequently update bus arrival times. It is truly the best option currently available for public transportation users in Lisbon, and I encourage you to try it!  

While it may require some getting used to and it is currently only available in Portuguese, the ability to know exactly when your bus or tram will arrive is worth the learning curve.

The Lisbon Book Fair Is the Perfect Place to Relax This June

If you’re a book, beer, picnic, or park lover, then we’ve got the perfect place for you to visit this June in Lisbon. From June 4-22, Parque Eduardo VII transforms into a book lover’s paradise that is now celebrating its 95th edition (yes, it is THAT successful).

“So, Portugal.com, is this just a place where I can look at books, pick one out, and then go home? I can do that at any bookshop in town. Or better yet – I can just buy a book online.”

“No, dear reader, the Lisbon Book Fair is much, much more and is the perfect place for introverts to escape the hordes of revelers stuffing their faces with sardines and chorizo all around town during the Santos Populares festivals.” Now, let’s look at the reasons why.

What Can You Find at the Book Fair

First, the Lisbon Book Fair takes place in one of Lisbon’s most beautiful parks – Parque Eduardo VII, which offers beautiful views at the top of the hill over which the park extends. The fair has over 50 booksellers from local independent shops to big retailers such as El Corte Inglés and FNAC. Many of the book stalls are set up like mini bookstores. You can walk in, peruse the titles, offered in a variety of languages (although most of them are in Portuguese), and even plop down on a nearby beanbag chair and start reading right away.

With so many books to discover, you could easily spend hours browsing through the titles, finding the perfect book to suit your late spring fancy. Once you find your perfect book, you can check out talks and mini concerts at one of two main stages, one at the top end of the park and one at the bottom near Marquês de Pombal. Some stalls also exhibit art and serve wine, crepes, and ice cream. Near the top end of the park, you can also grab a meal from food trucks serving vegetarian meals, poke bowls, and empanadas, to name a few.

One of many food stalls at the Lisbon Book Fair, Photo by Becky Gillespie

And Then You Can Picnic in the Park! 

While you’re up near the north end of the park, you can retreat into a leafy greenhouse that is truly one of Lisbon’s best hidden gems called Estufa Fria, which is closed on Mondays but open every other day from 10:00 AM – 7:00 PM. You can also sit on a bench above Parque Eduardo VII in a separate part of the park called Jardim Amália Rodrigues. Better yet, bring your own picnic blanket and bottle of wine and enjoy your new book in comfort under a tree. Because Parque Eduardo VII has some of the most open space of any of the central parks in Lisbon, there are plenty of options for a picnic spot! So why not combine the fresh new pages of a book with the coziness of a picnic? Our final recommendation here is a stop by the Linha D’Água, just three minutes from Jardim Amália Rodrigues, where you can grab a coffee or a beer and sit around a pond.

Have you convinced you? Then, come on over and enjoy the Lisbon Book Fair (Feira do Livro) during the following hours from June 4 – June 22:  

  • Monday-Thursday – 12:00 PM – 10:00 PM
  • Fridays and Holiday Evenings – 12:00 PM – 11:00 PM
  • Saturdays – 10:00 AM – 11:00 PM
  • Sundays and Holidays – 10:00 AM – 10:00 PM

Don’t miss this annual celebration of literature, culture, and the final days of spring in one of Europe’s most beautiful cities! The Lisbon Book Fair is waiting for you!

Looking for More to Do While You’re in Town? Check Out These Lisbon Tours!

Undiscovered Lisbon Food & Wine Tour with Eating Europe

Lisbon Sunset Sailing Tour with White or Rosé Wine and Snacks

Sintra and Cascais Small-Group Day Trip from Lisbon

Three Cities in One Day: Porto, Nazare and Obidos from Lisbon

Lisbon E-Bike Tour Commerce Square, Mouraria and Alfama

Italy Slams the Door on Citizenship Dreams for Many Americans. Why Not Try Portugal Instead?

Millions of Americans with Italian heritage are reeling from a devastating blow to their European citizenship dreams. Italy’s recent law change has effectively cut off the path to citizenship for countless descendants of Italian immigrants, leaving families divided and futures uncertain. But while one door closes, another remains wide open. Portugal is positioning itself as the premier destination for Americans seeking European residency and citizenship.

Italy’s Citizenship Crackdown

Italy’s parliament delivered a crushing disappointment to Italian-Americans on May 20, 2025, when it ratified new citizenship laws that dramatically restrict who can claim Italian citizenship through ancestry. The changes represent a seismic shift from the previous system that had welcomed anyone with an Italian ancestor dating back to the creation of the Kingdom of Italy in 1861.

Under the amended law, only those with Italian parents or grandparents can now apply for citizenship through the jus sanguinis (bloodline) system. This seemingly simple change has eliminated eligibility for millions of Americans whose Italian heritage traces back to great-grandparents – precisely the generation that includes most descendants of the massive Italian immigration wave between 1880 and 1920.

The new legislation establishes a strict two-generation limit for automatic citizenship through ancestry. Italian descendants born abroad will only automatically become citizens if they have at least one parent or grandparent born in Italy. This seemingly simple change has eliminated eligibility for millions of Americans whose Italian heritage traces back to great-grandparents—precisely the generation that includes most descendants of the massive Italian immigration wave between 1880 and 1920.

Florence, Italy, DepositPhotos.com

Stricter Than You Think

The restrictions go even deeper than the generational cutoff. The Italian parent or grandparent must have held Italian citizenship exclusively at the time of their death, meaning those who naturalized as citizens of other countries may not qualify to pass citizenship to their descendants. Additionally, qualifying parents must have legally resided in Italy for at least two consecutive years after acquiring Italian citizenship and before their child’s birth or adoption.

The legislation does provide limited exceptions for those who demonstrated serious intent to become Italian citizens before the crackdown. People who submitted applications to consular or mayoral offices by March 27, 2025, or received appointment communications by that date, remain eligible under the old rules. However, this grace period offers little comfort to the countless families who were planning to apply but hadn’t yet navigated Italy’s notoriously slow bureaucratic process.

The timing couldn’t be more painful for affected families. Italy estimates that approximately 80 million people worldwide claim Italian descent, with roughly 20 million residing in the United States. The vast majority of these Italian-Americans are great-grandchildren of the four million Italians who immigrated to America during the peak migration period, making them the primary casualties of this policy change.

When Dreams Collide with Reality

The human cost of Italy’s decision extends far beyond bureaucratic inconvenience. Families who have spent years preparing for citizenship, learning Italian, studying the country’s history, and investing emotionally in their heritage now find themselves permanently excluded from their ancestral homeland.

Consider the heartbreak of families split apart by arbitrary generational lines. In one family from the United States, a mother remains eligible for citizenship while her son is forever barred because his connection runs through a great-grandfather rather than a grandparent. These aren’t distant relatives with tenuous connections. These are families who have maintained their Italian identity across generations and were actively pursuing citizenship when the rules changed overnight.

The Italian government’s justification centers on preventing abuse of the system and addressing concerns about people with minimal cultural ties obtaining convenient EU passports. However, critics argue that the blanket restriction punishes people genuinely hoping to reconnect with their Italian heritage.

Adding insult to injury, Italy has made the remaining citizenship process more cumbersome. Applications must now be processed online through the Italian government rather than consulates, mandatory in-person interviews in Italy are required, and new citizens risk losing their status if they don’t actively engage with Italian civic life through voting, paying taxes, or renewing passports.

Looking down on Verona, DepositPhotos.com

Goodbye Italy, Hello Portugal

While Italy closes its doors to many, Portugal remains a place of opportunity for Americans looking for European citizenship. The country offers multiple pathways to residency and eventual citizenship and has created options for virtually every situation and income level.

Portugal’s approach to immigration reflects a fundamentally different philosophy from Italy’s restrictive new stance. Rather than limiting access, Portugal actively encourages foreign investment and talent through diverse visa programs designed to attract newcomers and allowing people to apply for citizenship after only five years.

Porto and the Douro River, DepositPhotos.com

Employment-Based Pathways

Portugal welcomes foreign workers through two primary employment visas. The D1 visa serves workers without higher education who secure 12-month employment contracts, while the D3 (HQA) visa targets highly qualified professionals with university degrees and minimum salaries of €1,020. This latter category particularly appeals to American professionals in technology, engineering, medicine, and management roles.

The Digital Nomad Revolution

Portugal has also embraced the remote work revolution with its Digital Nomad Visa, which offers two-year residency for freelancers and remote employees. Americans can qualify by demonstrating monthly income of €3,480 and securing Portuguese accommodation. This option has proven to be particularly attractive to Americans hoping to escape domestic political tensions while keeping their US-based careers.

Investment and Business Opportunities

Entrepreneurs find multiple paths to Portuguese residency through business investment. The Startup Visa supports innovative projects without requiring specific investment amounts, while the D2 Visa accommodates traditional business ventures. Both options require proof of accommodation and sufficient living funds.

For those with substantial resources, Portugal’s Golden Visa program offers the fastest route to European citizenship. With minimum investments starting at €250,000 in approved funds, scientific research, or cultural projects, investors can obtain residency permits renewable every two years with minimal physical presence requirements – just seven days annually!

Passive Income and Lifestyle Seekers

Portugal’s D7 Visa represents perhaps the most accessible option for many Americans. Retirees, property investors, or anyone with stable passive income exceeding Portugal’s minimum wage (€870 in 2025) can qualify for residency. This includes pension income, rental payments, investment returns, or royalties. This is ideal for Americans looking for a European retirement haven.

Family and Educational Pathways

Portugal maintains generous family reunification policies, welcoming spouses, dependent children, parents, and siblings of Portuguese residents. International students and researchers can also find straightforward paths to residency through academic programs from bachelor’s degrees through postdoctoral research positions.

Madeira Botanical Garden, Duncan Cumming, Flickr

The Clock is Ticking

Portugal’s welcoming stance toward American immigrants is happening against a backdrop of increasing restrictions across Europe. Malta’s Golden Visa program was recently declared illegal by the European Court of Justice, and Italy’s citizenship restrictions represent part of a broader trend toward limiting immigration pathways.

These developments make Portugal’s continued openness increasingly valuable and potentially temporary. As European attitudes toward immigration programs shift, Americans interested in European citizenship should consider acting sooner rather than later.

The contrast between Italy’s harsh restrictions and Portugal’s open policies couldn’t be starker. While Italy has chosen to slam the door on millions of Italian-American descendants, Portugal continues – for now – to roll out the welcome mat for Americans looking to move to Europe.

A New Chapter for Americans in Europe

For Americans devastated by Italy’s citizenship restrictions, Portugal is a genuine opportunity to start a new life in Europe – and Italy will only be a three-hour flight away. The country’s multiple pathways to residency and citizenship, combined with its strategic location, favorable climate, and growing international community, make it a compelling alternative to traditional European destinations.

Portugal’s citizenship process typically takes five to six years of legal residency, during which Americans can fully integrate into European life while maintaining their US citizenship. The country’s relatively low cost of living, excellent healthcare system, and political stability add to its appeal for Americans hoping to live in Europe.

The message for Americans with European aspirations is clear: while Italy has chosen to restrict access to its citizenship based on increasingly narrow heritage requirements, Portugal remains committed to welcoming Americans who can contribute to its economy and society. The window of opportunity remains open, but given the broader European trend toward restriction, Americans interested in Europe would be wise to explore their Portuguese options sooner rather than later.

In the end, Italy’s loss may well prove to be Portugal’s gain, as millions of Americans with European dreams turn their attention to a country that still believes in the value of welcoming motivated immigrants looking for a better life.

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Considering Portugal’s Golden Visa Program? Everything you need to know + how to qualify with 325,000 EUR

If you’re interested in finding out the latest details about the Golden Visa program and want to take advantage of the new opportunities. Signup for a live Q&A webinar with an expert from Holborn Assets that will answer all your questions. The event is scheduled for September 17 at 5 PM Lisbon Time (1 PM EST). The live webinar will cover the following:

  • Golden Visa basics, how to qualify, who can be included
  • New Investment Criteria for 2024
  • Golden Visa timeline and process
  • How to qualify with just 325,000 EUR – this exclusive offer includes investment loan financing to bridge the gap to reach the 500k minimum investment
  • What tax breaks are available?
  • Live Q&A for all questions

Register for FREE

*If you cannot attend the seminar or would prefer one-on-one, book a call here.

Digital Nomad Guide to Lisbon, Portugal
Cascais, Portugal. Photo by Calin Stan (Unsplash)