If you dream of going off-road and offline to a less-discovered region of Portugal, a stay at Convento de Mértola may be just what you’re looking for. A 400-year-old former Franciscan monastery in the southern Alentejo region in the town of Mértola, this unique nature reserve overlooks the Oeiras and Guadiana Rivers, with stunning views of the countryside and the Castelo de Mértola. Throughout the year, Convento attracts artists, filmmakers, musicians, and literary types, as well as naturalists, biologists, and social scientists who stay for a few days or multiple weeks. 

Surrounded by more than 40 hectares, this site once housed relics from the Cross of Christ and later became famous when a statue of St. Anthony housed with the Convento’s church started to cry. From 1612 to 1834, Convento de Mértola provided lodging for an abbot and 12 Franciscan monks. Over several years, excavations have revealed archeological remains from the convent’s Roman and Moorish roots. On the southern border, there’s even a Roman road that once linked Mértola to the Algarve. 

Restoring the Convent  

Convento de Mértola has been lovingly restored over four decades by the Zwanikkens, a Dutch family who acquired the convent and the land in 1980, with the idea of creating a space in which to create. Along with the 17th-century church, which now serves as an exposition space, there are several areas dedicated to work, study, meditation, and relaxation. Today, the compound is still maintained and curated by the same family and is the setting for expositions, seminars, culinary workshops, and community-based events. 

“My father, a photographer, was the one who first saw the potential of this place,” says Christiaan Zwanikken, an artist whose pioneering work integrates art, technology, and science. “With some creative friends, my parents imagined this beautiful place where we have lived and worked most of our lives. We now see so much potential here, and we hope to give back to the community by hosting people from all over and presenting events and workshops. We open up to the public so others can enjoy it and possibly learn from what we do.” 

My Stay at the Convent

I had the pleasure of staying for a month at Convento de Mértola during the summer of 2019 while I completed the first draft of a play. I also read a few books, including a novel by Haruki Murakami that was a thoughtful leave-behind from a previous guest. I was joined that summer by a South American filmmaker working on a documentary, as well as a biologist researching the bird population of the region, and a Chinese photographer, studying at NYU, who was creating site-specific images.

A morning walk to town, across the Ponte Velha bridge and along a cobblestone path, was a small but delightful adventure that allowed us to start the day with great coffee, a warm welcome from local residents, and a divine pastel de nata. Our days were divided between concentrated work hours, afternoon siestas with curtains drawn, sunset canoe trips on the river, occasional birding, visits to the horse stables and the peacock hut, delicious communal or individual meals, and evening hikes to cool off with a dip in the creek. 

Accommodation

Three cozy-vibe guest studios, painted a calming white, are renovated stables. Each includes a kitchen area and in-suite bath. Mine had an unforgettable view of the Castelo de Mértola from the terrace, and I often parked my computer in that spot, concluding my writing for the day with the dramatic lighting of the castle’s facade. The studio next door featured a rooftop deck for late night stargazing, chatting, and reading. Zwanikken says some visitors have expressed interest in staying in the cells, once inhabited by monks, and these renovated spaces may eventually be offered for short or longer-term stays. 

The Library

If you’re in search of a great art book or novel to read by the river, or curious about the biodiversity or origins of Alentejo, the library located off the living room of the main house has shelves lined with a curated selection of art and scientific books in several languages, as well as a long communal table for working, pondering, or daydreaming. Sleepy cats and dogs will join you in this space, cooling themselves on the concrete floor. Though some visitors may enjoy the rare opportunity to unplug throughout their stay, others can access the Wi-Fi, which works efficiently in each studio and covers the grounds. 

Culinary Options

According to Zwanikken, in the post-COVID era, they have reimagined elements of the experience at Convento de Mértola. Along with self-service cooking and meal prep, there is talk of inviting chefs to hold different kinds of workshops. A culinary program will center on cooking local fare while drawing inspiration from the botanical ingredients found in the extensive garden designed and tended by Geraldine Zwanikken, a former dancer and founder. 

The convent’s ancient water irrigation system has been restored and many varieties of plants and botanicals have been cultivated as part of Convento’s ambitious ecological mission. According to Zwanikken, “Along with food, we also want to continue workshops about water conservation—we have our own ancient well—and we invite people to have these public conversations about ecology practices.”

If you’re ready to devote time to an intensive project or would simply like an unconventional holiday in this spectacular region of Portugal, far from the noise and daily routines of city life, all are welcome at Convento de Mértola. You may be asked to do a brief interview simply to make sure you are a good fit for this unique setting. It’s important to note that, while there may be others joining you during your stay, solitude is something you should anticipate about this retreat. 

As Zwanikken says, “This is a place to find serenity and a place to decompress,” adding, “Some people like other types of holidays. They like to be busy all the time and that’s fine. “This is not that. It’s a place of exploration and a place to be self-sufficient. Of course, you work if you choose—while enjoying the natural surroundings. You’ll soon know if Convento is for you.” 

How to Get to Convento de Mértola

Faro airport is the closest airport to Convento de Mértola. Guests can request a car service to pick them up from the airport, which is about a 90-minute drive. There is a direct bus service from Lisbon airport to Mértola.

For more information about Convento de Mértola, check out their website. Guests interested in staying need to first send an email to [email protected], which is part of the application procedure.

The mountains of Serra da Estrela in Central Portugal have been home to shepherds and their roaming flocks as far back as 1000 AD. Next year, a new herd will make their mark on history but with a modern twist—they will be the first to carry packs and supplies for hikers looking to explore the region. And did we mention that they are goats? Yes! Portugal’s first pack goats are getting ready to make their hiking debut in Serra da Estrela. Before we learn more about this project, let’s explore the history of shepherding in Serra da Estrela and the introduction of pack goats!

The History of Shepherding and Transhumance in Serra da Estrela

Transhumance, the practice of moving a flock or herd of animals from one area to another depending on the season, has been a tradition in Europe since prehistoric times. Usually, flocks are taken up into the mountains during the summer and down into the valleys in the winter. At one point in history, transhumance was widespread on the Iberian peninsula. Roaming the land rather than remaining sedentary proved to enhance the quality of sheep’s fleece. Therefore, sheep in transhumant flocks contributed to wool production while flocks of animals kept on parcels of land were raised for their milk and meat.

Serra da Estrela, as we’ve already mentioned, has records of transhumance stretching back for centuries. Accompanied by sheep dogs endemic to the region, shepherds would take their flocks high into the mountains and stay in huts nestled under huge glacial boulders before bringing their flocks back into the villages below after the first snows in November or December.   

What Is a Pack Goat?

A pack goat is a goat used for packing cargo. Goats have transported cargo in Europe for as long as animals have been domesticated. You likely don’t think about goats as transport animals because it was the usually the poorest in society who depended on them to carry their supplies. Horses and donkeys got more of the press.

John Mionczynski of Atlantic City, Wyoming popularized the concept of goat packing as part of a modern-day touristic tradition in the 1980s and 1990s. Mionczynski trained a herd of large mixed-breed goats and first used them in the 1970s to carry supplies for scientists working in the mountains. He later organized group hiking trips and had the goats carry the food and hiking gear.  

Introducing Caminho de Cabras: Bringing the First Pack Goats to Portugal  

Caminho de Cabras, or Portugal Pack Goats, the first company training pack goats in Portugal started as a chance encounter.

In 2015, India Guest from the UK met João Martins from Portugal in Antwerp, Belgium on a traditional sailing ship. The two worked side by side until India broke her hand during a fire drill and had to leave her new love for months. Eventually, the time apart working on separate ships proved to be too much and India and João dreamed of a place on dry land that they could call home.

Their first port of call together on land was a horse farm in the UK. Learning to tie a variety of knots at sea came in handy as they worked with the horses, and they thought that horses might be their future in Portugal. But house prices in the Algarve, where João is from, proved to be too expensive, leading to the couple to the hilly terrain of Serra da Estrela in central Portugal – to a small village called Eirô. The hills in this region also ruled out the idea of working with horses and forced them to think about a different animal to raise on their future farm. This eventually led them to John Mionczynski’s work with pack goats.

India and João realized that raising goats to travel along the trails of Serra da Estrela naturally extends the time-honored tradition of transhumance in Portugal. By blending hiking with shepherding, tourists visiting the region will be introduced to the storied culture of Serra da Estrela while also not having to carry so much weight along the trails – and getting the chance to interact with adorable goats. Truly a win-win-win.

The Caminho de Cabras project began to take shape at the beginning of 2023 when India and João received their first two goats. Two more soon joined them, and the couple now have a total of eight goats, hoping to eventually extend their herd to 12 pack goats that will assist hikers on the trails. You can follow their antics and watch them grow at Portugal Pack Goats.

When Can I Go Hiking with the Goats in Serra da Estrela?

Caminho de Cabras’s goats need about one year to train before they are ready to hike with tourists full time. However, they are going on their first hike with guests as a test this September. Before going out on group hikes, Caminho de Cabras plans to take guests on goat picnics, which will probably start in the spring of 2025.

Imagine going on a picnic with loved ones accompanied by an adorable group of goats. The goats will carry local gastronomic delights including Serra da Estrela cheeses and regional wines. Blankets spun from the wool of local sheep will be spread out over the meadow and guests will be able to enjoy, as Portuguese author Miguel Torga described it, “the “tall, immense, enigmatic” presence of Serra da Estrela that is…”immediately an obsession.”

Besides picnics and guided hikes, Caminho de Cabras plans to offer the goats as supply carriers for those wishing to go climbing, bird watching, or fishing. In 2026, they hope to offer multi-day hikes in collaboration with campsites and local hotels. Caminho de Cabras also hope to work with local activity providers such as botany experts and hiking guides to make joint tours, with the goats helping to carry the load. Those hoping to hike solo with the goats or in a group without a Caminho de Cabras guide may be able to take courses from the company to learn how to handle the goats on their own.

Can I Volunteer with the Pack Goats?

Yes, you can apply to work at the Caminho de Cabras farm and volunteer to assist with various farm chores and, of course, taking care of the goats. Currently, there is only space for 1-2 people, and volunteers are accepted on a week-by-week basis.  

Am I Hurting the Goats by Making Them Carry Supplies?

No, with the proper training and not too much weight. Much like a dog that gets excited when they see you pick up a leash, pack goats light up when they see you walking towards them with their packs – because they know that they are getting ready to go up the mountain and roam the land, which is in their DNA! Remember, as India puts it, that “Goats are also so stubborn that you can’t force them to do anything they don’t want to do. They want to be up on the mountain because that is their natural home.”

Why You Should Visit Serra da Estrela?

Serra da Estrela offers the best escape into nature on mainland Portugal. You can climb to Torre, the highest peak at 1,993 m and the second highest point in the country (with Pico in the Azores being the highest). There are over 375 km of marked trails in the region that cater to all fitness levels, perfect for mountain biking, trekking, and goat packing! During the summer, you can even take refreshing dips in cool river beaches. After coming back from a hike with the goats, you can visit the Bread Museum in Seia or check out the Solar do Queijo in Celorico da Beira, which offers tastings of the famous buttery Serra da Estrela cheese.

Serra da Estrela is also the only place in Portugal where you can ski, snowboard, or ride a snowmobile thanks to well-equipped pistes and synthetic snow slopes. Don’t expect anything like the more famous slopes in Europe. This is very small in comparison, but it’s nice to know that there’s a place in Portugal where this is possible!

Final Thoughts

Caminho de Cabras took 1st prize in 2024’s José Manuel Alves competition – an annual tourism entrepreneurship competition organized by Turismo Centro de Portugal. We have no doubt that they will fulfill their goals of collaborating with local vendors, bringing more tourism to Central Portugal, and introducing the country to the joyous tradition of goat packing. As India says, “Pack goats not only carry your load but also lift the spirit, offering you adventures that are totally unique in Portugal.” We can’t wait to watch them succeed! Follow the goats on their journey and get ready for goat packing in Portugal in 2025!