Home Blog Page 35

Tradition and Modernity – Welcome to Santarém

zeeduardopenedo
-
0
Tradition and Modernity – Welcome to Santarém

Perched high on a plateau, Santarém is a viewpoint over the fertile Lezíria region, the Tagus River valley known for its agriculture, cattle breeding, and bullfighting. Often overshadowed by Lisbon, just one hour away, the city has its own culture and traditions that both defined and stemmed from the old Ribatejo (literally “above the Tagus River”) region for centuries.

Santarém is located in Central Portugal and has excellent accessibility by road and rail. It is also conveniently served by the country’s main railway line: the northern line (double track, electrified, and with a large number of connections both to Lisbon and to other parts of the country).

The city of Santarém offers visitors theaters, cinemas, art galleries, and other spaces for cultural activities. Recently restructured, the Sá da Bandeira Theater offers a varied program, including lectures, music, theater, and cinema, among others. The Taborda theater, on the other hand, is mainly geared towards the presentation of plays.

The city was part of the territories of the Order of Christ, which financially supported the Portuguese Discoveries, and developed a great deal during that time, which is still reflected today in the monuments that are so important to the history of Portuguese art. So hop on, and let’s discover everything this city has to offer!

Santarém’s History: A Blast From the Past

Santarém has been desired and contested by various civilizations throughout the ages. Its names changed over time, reflecting different rulers and cultures. From its foundation as Scallabis, through Roman, Visigothic, and Muslim occupations, to its reconquest by King Afonso Henriques in 1147, leading to its current name.

The city’s roots can be traced to Greco-Roman and Christian mythology, and it played a crucial role as a trading post and administrative center during Roman rule. Islamic occupation saw Santarém’s cultural and artistic flourishing, producing notable poets and troubadours.

Reconquered by King Afonso Henriques in 1147, Santarém received charters to establish its municipal structure. The 14th and 15th centuries marked a golden age, hosting the royal residence and becoming a cultural hub. However, the Court’s presence diminished in the 16th century, and the 1755 earthquake caused significant heritage loss.

In the 19th century, Santarém faced challenges from French invasions and the Peninsular War. Liberal ideologies found support among the locals, but the extinction of religious orders in 1834 and the subsequent destruction of heritage raised concerns.

Elevated to district capital in 1837 and gaining city status in 1868, Santarém embraced modernity with the arrival of the railway and the construction of the D. Luís I Bridge. The town’s agricultural significance was revitalized in the late 19th century with agricultural exhibitions.

Santarém played a pivotal role in the political-military movement of the Captains of April 1974, contributing to the establishment of the democratic regime in Portugal. Throughout its history, despite changing rulers, it maintained its strategic importance and reputation as an administrative center and cultural hub.

How to Get To Santarém

By Plane

Santarém doesn’t have an airport, even though it’s one of the locations on the table for the location of Lisbon’s new airport.

By Car

From Lisbon, take the A1 highway northbound and follow the signs for Santarém. Depending on traffic, your trip should take somewhere between 45 minutes and 1 hour.

From Porto, you’ll also need to take the A1 highway, but this time southbound. Pass Aveiro, Coimbra, and Leiria during your 3-hour drive before you reach Santarém.

By Bus

There are multiple daily buses connecting Lisbon to Santarém. To catch one of them, get to the Sete Rios bus terminal, the main hub in the city. The ride to Santarém takes 60 to 90 minutes.

From Porto, head to the Campo 24 de Agosto bus terminal. There are several daily buses and the journey takes somewhere between 4 and 5 hours.

By Train

From Lisbon, you can catch the train to Santarém at either the Santa Apolónia station or the Oriente station. The trip takes less than an hour.

From Porto, you’ll need to head to the Campanhã station to catch your train. After just 2 and a half hours, you’ll reach Santarém.

When to Go to Santarém

In terms of climate, Santarém is one of the extremes. Summers in these parts are very hot and Santarém often sees sporadic torrid days in July and August. Winters are the complete opposite, with lots of rain and even days when it feels like Siberia.  However, when the sun shines and you’re blessed with the mild temperatures of spring and fall, any afternoon stroll through Santarém is simply delightful.

Speaking of delights, Santarém has been synonymous with gastronomy in Portugal for over four decades. The Santarém National Gastronomy Festival usually takes place in the second half of October and brings together the best of our gastronomy and winemaking to one place, with representatives from the four corners of the country serving snacks, traditional dishes, and regional delicacies in the famous Tasquinhas de Santarém.

Another national event that Santarém hosts is the National Agriculture Fair in June. From the first Ribatejo Fair in 1954, it only took ten years for it to grow to the size of the largest national agricultural fair, which has now transcended borders.

Marked by the greatest Ribatejo traditions and icons, the great Santarém Festivities take place between March 15, the date of the city’s conquest, and March 19, a municipal holiday and the day of Saint Joseph, one of Santarém’s patron saints. The genuine Ribatejo character of the “festa brava” still animates it, with the unavoidable presence of its folklore, the fandango, and the emblematic figure of the campino, the unofficial Portuguese cowboy.

A focus of pilgrimage, the traditional Feasts of the Most Holy Miracle take place on Easter Sunday, with veneration of the Holy Relic, religious celebrations, and a grand procession through the streets of Santarém, decked out and covered in carpets of flowers.

What to See in Santarém

Wherever you come from, Santarém is love at first sight. The city stands tall on the plateau that dominates the Ribatejo marshes, with the Tagus River kneeling at its feet and swearing its love. Santarém emanates that fascination of cities that are unashamed of their age.

In its contrasts of old and new, bright and gray, noble and plebeian, it finds a balance that few others can achieve. Anyone who dares to know its secrets, to get to its heart, will find it hard to escape its charm.

To visit Santarém is to dare to uncover centuries of history, layer by layer. Prehistoric remains date the probable human occupation of the alcazaba on the Santarém Plateau back to the late Bronze Age.

Other peoples also passed through and settled here, leaving a rich legacy: Phoenicians, Romans, Alans, Vandals, Suevi, Visigoths, and Muslims until the Christian Reconquista made it definitively Portuguese. Bastion of the Tagus, the taking of Santarém was decisive in the formation of Portugal.

As one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in Portugal, it’s easy to guess that Santarém is the guardian of an extremely valuable historical legacy. And it has all the ingredients for a perfect getaway: rich heritage, admirable architecture, cultural identity, delicious gastronomy, and friendly people.

Portas do Sol and Castle

Castle Santarém Portugal
Castle of Santarém, Photo by Vitor Oliveira (Flickr)

There’s no better place to start an itinerary to visit Santarém than at its ancient and lofty castle. Just follow the signs and you’re well on your way to one of Portugal’s most exciting viewpoints.

From prehistoric settlement to Portuguese castle, these stones have witnessed more than 28 centuries of human history. From the Roman “Scalabis”, to the Visigoth “Sancta Irena”, to the Muslim “Chantarim”, to current-day “Santarém”, ingeniously and audaciously taken by King Afonso Henriques in the dead of night on March 15, 1147, with just over two and a half hundred skilled Templar soldiers, via the vanished Porta da Atamarma. It is he, the first King of Portugal, who dominates the center of the garden, represented by a bronze statue – any resemblance to the statue of King Afonso Henriques in the town of Guimarães, by Soares dos Reis, is no coincidence.

But the best way to learn the story of this ancient space is at the Urbis Scallabis Interpretation Center in the garden grounds, which exhibits archaeological finds from the ancient alcazaba and tells the story of Santarém, from prehistory to the contemporary age, in multimedia format, and which is well worth a visit.

Cathedral

Santarém Cathedral Portugal
Cathedral of Santarém, Photo by João Alves (Flickr)

The Church of Nossa Senhora da Conceição, initially owned by the priests of the Society of Jesus and, after 1780, by the Patriarchal Seminary of Santarém, is one of the most important and beautiful sacred monuments of the Scalabitan heritage.

The interior of the single-nave temple has eight side chapels, where the splendor and richness of the Baroque dazzle us, in clear contrast with the sobriety of the frontispiece. The ceiling of the nave, in a prospective painting, from 1728 with the iconography of the ascension of Our Lady, Jesuit figures and allegories to the parts of the then-known World.

The beautiful ceiling of the Main Chapel is the work, from an architectural perspective, of the Scalabitan painter Luís Gonçalves de Sena, executed in 1754 and which complements the enchantment that the entire interior decoration conveys to us.

Eugénio Silva Palace and City Hall

Santarém’s City Hall currently occupies the Meneses Palace, a beautiful example of sunny civil architecture from the mid-17th century or, at least, the end of the 17th century.

The palace has classic lines, elegant and sober facades, full of bay windows with their characteristic 18th-century moldings and curiously pinnacled. Above the windows, the architect opened small openings for lighting the attic. The main entrance is located in the middle of the North façade, with a modeled and pinnacled stonework door, in the middle of which, on the lintel, was placed the central window, surmounted by a triangular pediment. Above the crack in this window is the coat of arms of the Meneses family, the first owners and providers of the marshes in the 18th century.

Town Market

Painted Tiles Town Market Santarém Portugal
In Santarém’s Town Market even the traditional painted tiles allude to the city’s bullfighting tradition, Photo by Lux Machina (Flickr)

Dating from 1930 and designed by architect Cassiano Branco, it replaced the open-air market that had survived for centuries in Praça Visconde Serra do Pilar, known as Praça Velha.

In addition to the building’s architectural language, its exterior features a remarkable set of fifty-five figurative and eight decorative tile panels commissioned from the now-defunct Sacavém Factory, which represent the tourist and regional advertising motifs that characterized the Ribatejo capital at the beginning of the 20th century.

Monastery of Santa Maria de Almoster

The Monastery of Santa Maria de Almoster was founded on the initiative of Lady Berengária Aires, a lady at the court of Queen Isabel, in fulfillment of the will of her mother, Lady Sancha Pires, to erect a monastery of Cistercian nuns in Almoster.

The complex consists of the church, the dormitories (in ruins), the old refectory, and the chapter room, arranged around the cloister, of which only two sections remain. On the floor of the chapter room, there are several tombstones of abbesses, and above the benches you can see a row of 18th-century tiles.

The church, which follows the Mendicant Gothic style, is made up of three five-section naves with ogival arches, separated by pillars with pilasters attached, decorated with floral capitals.

The internal space of the temple is divided by the construction of a low Mannerist choir, which separated the area for the religious from the part for the laity.

King Luís Bridge

An important engineering feat among the metal bridges of the industrial era in Portugal and a remarkable example of iron architecture, it was inaugurated on September 17, 1881, linking Santarém to Almeirim. At the time, it was considered the largest in the Iberian Peninsula, the third in Europe and the sixth in the world. It was refurbished in 1956 to a design by Edgar Cardoso.

Ribeira de Santarém

Ribeira de Santarém Portugal
Ribeira de Santarém, Photo by Vitor Oliveira (Flickr)

An old town linked to the river traffic that once made Santarém the gateway to Ribatejo. Houses, lanes, and alleys, as well as a few monuments (Santa Cruz Church and Palhais Fountain), make it attractive. On the banks of the Tagus, the standard of Santa Iria perpetuates the memory of the appearance of the Saint’s tomb to Queen Santa Isabel and King Dinis.

Last Thoughts

You might have noticed that I didn’t include any suggestions on where to eat, and that’s no accident. The truth is that you can find a great restaurant anywhere you go in Santarém. Just avoid anything with “chez” or any English words in their names, and you’re bound to have a great meal. I feel like picking just two or three restaurants to highlight would be unfair and reductive for a city that is known for serving great food.

But what do you say? Will you give Santarém a try? It’s only one hour away from Lisbon, so time and distance are not an excuse. Trust me, just hop on a train, walk up the castle, and sit bit the walls to watch the sunset on the horizon. Trust me, you’ll wish you could spend more time in this fantastic city.

Alqueva’s Riverside Villages

zeeduardopenedo
-
0
Alqueva’s Riverside Villages

Deep inside southern Portugal, lies the Alentejo region. A land of vast countryside and scorching summers, often seen as a desert by its own country, even though it was once described as the “nation’s breadbasket”. It was home to many different peoples through the years, from the Romans to the Moors and the Christians.

But the Alentejo has changed. Today, it is more of an olive grove than a breadbasket, multiculturalism is now a reality and, most importantly, it is now an oasis, not a desert. And this is thanks to the Great Lake of Alqueva, a dam that took over three decades to conclude and completely reshaped the region.

At the time of its construction, it was Europe’s largest artificial lake, extending for over 250 square kilometers, and encompassing three municipalities and two districts. Its main purpose is energy production and as a water reservoir, but in my opinion, its biggest achievement was creating a beautiful inner sea on a countryside background that is still fairly unexplored by tourism.

It was within this context that a group of previously forgotten villages rose to prominence and presented themselves as quaint, charming options for travelers looking for a truly genuine experience, away from the crowds and right in the middle of the countryside, but with many entertainment options for the adrenaline junkies too.

I’m talking, of course, of Alqueva’s Riverside Villages, a network of sixteen villages located on the shores of the Great Lake, famous for their white houses and red roofs, cobbled streets, with only a few hundred inhabitants each, and with the countryside a stone throw away.

I hail from this region, so it is with a lot of pride and pleasure that I came up with an itinerary that you can complete in a single day or, ideally, during a full weekend to make the most out of it. The route I chose starts at the northernmost village of Juromenha and follows a centripetal, counter-clockwise path before concluding at Monsaraz, the crown jewel of the region.

This guide includes descriptions of each village, suggestions on where to stay for the night, where to eat, when to go, and what to do. It’s as complete as it gets, so make sure to give it a read before you head to the Alqueva Lake, so you don’t miss a thing. Ready? Let’s go.

Juromenha

Juromenha Village Alqueva Alentejo Portugal
Juromenha, Photo by Rui Ornelas (Flickr)

Our journey starts in the municipality of Alandroal, in Alto Alentejo. Getting there from Lisbon is fairly easy. All you need to do is take the 25 de Abril bridge and follow the A2 highway. After about 40 minutes, switch to the A6 at Marateca towards Évora and just drive all the way until you reach Elvas after around one hour. From there, just take the N373 for less than ten minutes and you should be there.

Juromenha is a Portuguese parish in the municipality of Alandroal with around 100 inhabitants. Located at the northeast end of the municipality, it borders the disputed Territory of Olivença to the southeast. It is the smallest parish in the municipality in terms of area, population, and population density.

It was the seat of a municipality, which was abolished around 1836, and included the parishes of Juromenha and São Brás dos Matos and, in 1801, it had 823 inhabitants. The town of Vila Real, located beyond the Guadiana, administered by Spain since 1801, and part of the municipality of Olivença nowadays, belonged to the municipality and parish of Juromenha.

Juromenha’s origins go back a long way, having held the honorable position of sentinel of the River Guadiana, which flows at its feet. It was conquered by King Afonso Henriques in 1167. It then entered the domains of the Order of Avis, to whom it was donated by King Sancho I. Some important episodes took place there during the 17th-century Restoration War and the 19th-century Peninsular War.

After it was annexed to the municipality of Alandroal, Juromenha began a process of decline, which was accentuated in the 1920s, when the population completely abandoned the area within the walls and the suburbs developed around the hermitage of Santo António, which is today the fundamental nucleus of the town.

The fortress, which has a polygonal plan, is the village’s highlight. Today, inside the walled enclosure, there are the ruins of two churches, the jail and the old Town Hall. In landscape terms, the old fortress has a privileged location in terms of the visual domain of the Portuguese and Spanish territories.

Capelins

Our trip continues along the N373, which we will follow for about 10 minutes before taking a left toward “Mina do Bugalho”. Then, after 15 minutes, we arrive in the often-overlooked village of Capelins, also known as Santo António.

With nearly 400 inhabitants, it feels like a metropolis in comparison to Juromenha, even though it doesn’t boast a history nearly as impressive. It is not directly overlooking the water, but it is instead surrounded by rolling, green hills that calmly move as the wind blows, creating a very relaxing landscape.

Located on the south-eastern edge of the municipality, the parish of Capelins is bordered by the municipalities of Mourão and Reguengos de Monsaraz to the south – both of which make for great “headquarters” to spend the night during this trip – and Spain to the east.

Until 1836, the parish of Capelins belonged to the extinct municipality of Terena, whose origins are very old, dating back to the 13th century when it was first granted a royal charter. Through its castle, the town of Terena played a very important role in border defense, being, like Monsaraz further south, a point on the Guadiana defense line.

Monte do Trigo

After leaving Capelins behind, you should take a left to the N255 and follow it until you reach Casas Novas de Mares. Right after leaving it, take a right toward Montoito. After crossing Montoito, take the M513 until you reach Vendinha and take a right to the N256. After about 10 minutes, take the IP2 toward São Manços, pass it, and you should find Monte do Trigo on your left after just a few kilometers.

Everything indicates that Monte do Trigo was, in the 13th century, already a very important and fundamental space, both in terms of its geographical location as a distributing node of the road network that served the region and in terms of economic resources, which meant that these lands were not included in the donation made by King Afonso III to the nobles.

In 1283, King Dinis exchanged it for the town of Alvito, which then became the property of the Monastery of the Trinity of Santarém. In the 15th century, part of this reguengo was donated to the Countess of Faro. Subsequently, the whole area became part of the patronage of the House of Bragança.

The original church of the village – whose name literally means “wheat hill” – apparently built in the 16th century, disappeared completely between 1946 and 1947, giving way to the current church, which was built on the same site and is the highlight of the village.

Amieira

Walkway Beach Amieira Village Alqueva Alentejo Portugal
A walkway near Amieira’s riverside beach, Photo by Fernando Moital (Flickr)

From Monte do Trigo, it’s very easy to get to Amieira. Just take the IP2 again and get out at Portel. Then follow the directions to Moura, taking you along the R384. After about 10 minutes, take a left following the indications to Amieira, which will take you back to the N255. You’ll be able to see the village in the distance.

Amieira is a quiet village situated in a valley between the Amieira stream and the Degebe river, it is today a riverside village on the large Alqueva lake that draws crowds during summer thanks to its very pleasant artificial beach.

The word “amieira” or “amieiro“, which means “frequent tree in wetlands”, may be the origin of the name of this parish. The proximity of water from various streams, and especially the River Degebe, would make those lands humid, allowing for an abundance of vegetation, including alder trees. This natural name may have come to identify the place, along with the name given to the parish: Nossa Senhora das Neves da Amieira.

Amieira is home to a Marina that has an incredible restaurant and offers a wide range of nautical products, services, and activities such as river cruises, boat rentals, and water sports.

Alqueva

Alqueva Village Alentejo Portugal
Alqueva Lake took its name from the nearby village, Photo by Vitor Oliveira (Flickr)

From Amieira, you’ll need to drive back along the N255 toward Moura. Then take a left, which will bring you back to the R384 and after just a few minutes you’ll reach Alqueva.

The village of Alqueva is part of the municipality of Portel, in the district of Évora. The first references to this village appear in documents from 1285. The name “Alqueva” derives from “alqueive“, which means “fallow land” or “deserted land”, which is due to its very dry and rough soils, which was one of the biggest obstacles to the development of this region.

But it all changed a few decades ago when a proposal was made to build a dam next to the village with the aim of irrigating the soils and bringing development to a region whose main activity was agriculture. The dam is, of course, the Great Lake of Alqueva, which took its name from this village.

Recently, the parish built an artificial beach just outside the village, making it a great spot to park your car and head for a dip in the warm waters of the lake.

Marmelar

You won’t need to switch roads to get to Marmelar. At the roundabout in Alqueva, there are indications for Marmelar and Vidigueira. Just follow that road for 15 kilometers and it should take you there. During this quick ride, you’ll cross from the Alto Alentejo region to the Baixo Alentejo region. See if you can spot the differences in the landscape!

The village, which throughout the years has been part of the municipalities of Beja, then Cuba, and finally Vidigueira, has its origins shrouded in mystery, but some architectural testimonies reveal a very old settlement.

Located on the right bank of the Guadiana, Marmelar has always enjoyed favorable conditions for human settlement, as witnessed by the Corte Serrão dolmens, which tell us about the occupation of this region during the Eneolithic period, when the dead were worshipped through the construction of funerary monuments.

The picturesque Church of Santa Brígida in Marmelar is worth a visit while you’re here. It dates back to the 16th century and it’s a great example of traditional religious architecture in the region.

Pedrogão

Pedrogão is the head of the parish Marmelar is a part of, so it won’t be hard for you to find directions leading you there. The trip from Marmelar to Pedrogão takes less than ten minutes, so just enjoy the warm breeze and the vineyards on your way there.

The Pedrógão dam, which is part of the Alqueva development, was built next to this peaceful village in 2006 with the aim of stabilizing the flow of the River Guadiana downstream of the Alqueva dam, to produce electricity and supply water for irrigation, so these lands have since become very fertile, something they didn’t always benefit from.

Even the name “Pedrogão” seems to come from the word “pedra”, which means “rock”. You can still see a lot of rock formations scattered around the village and a lot of those were collected and transported to the nearby Corte Serrão dolmens, which are worth a visit.

Mina da Orada

Back on the N258, cross the wide bridge over the Guadiana, and it’s only five minutes before you see the plaques directing you to Orada. Take the right exit and the village is right ahead.

A village in the parish of Pias, in the municipality of Serpa, Orada is located next to the Pedrógão dam. It’s a small village whose main economic activity was mineral extraction until the mine, located next to the town, was shut down in 1971.

Its main attractions are the Chapel of Nossa Sra dos Prazeres and the old magnetite mine, now flooded, which is a popular place for diving. If you do decide to jump in, make sure you bring company or have spotters since it is actually not allowed – even though locals do it all the time.

The lake of the Orada mine is a very beautiful place, inspiring tranquility as only the Alentejo is capable of instilling, and is a popular spot for locals. According to those who have dived here, diving in the lake is relatively simple with very acceptable visibility and some life to discover. There are several galleries and tunnels that are interconnected. However, entry to the galleries is not recommended for anyone who is not certified for cave diving.

Póvoa de São Miguel

From Orada, you’ll need to get back to the N258 and head toward Moura. This city – where yours truly hails from – is a great place to spend the night and break this itinerary into two legs with eight villages per day. You’ll cross Moura from the west to the northeast, taking the N255 and crossing the River Ardila. Right after the bridge, take a right and switch to the N386 which will take you to Póvoa de São Miguel.

Póvoa de São Miguel is located in the municipality of Moura, on the left bank of the Guadiana River, halfway along the road linking Moura to Mourão. It stands on a high point from where you can see Monsaraz Castle. Next to the village runs the Ribeira do Zebro, which is now a branch of the Alqueva dam.

The village’s origins date back to the end of the 14th century, following the Sesmarias Law, published in 1375 by King Fernando, whose aim was to settle people in the countryside. The black plague ravaged Europe during this period and had a particular impact on the cities, where the mortality rate was very high, causing a shortage of manpower and causing wages to skyrocket. This led to the aforementioned exodus from the countryside to the cities, leaving the fields abandoned with a consequent lack of cereals and other agricultural products in the country.

As a curiosity, the population of Póvoa had, in the 2021 census, 761 inhabitants. The official name of the town was just Póvoa, but for many years it had been known among its inhabitants as Póvoa de São Miguel, in honor of its patron saint, and this name was made official in 1988.

Estrela

Estrela Village Alqueva Alentejo Portugal
Sunset at Estrela’s pier, Photo by Paulo Valdivieso (Flickr)

Drive across the village, following the directions to Mourão. Following the M517, it’s only a short drive before you see the indication for Estrela to the left, sitting on a peninsula, directly facing the Great Lake.

Due to its exceptional location, an anchorage was built where the boats that cross the Alqueva dam dock. It’s a great place for a stroll, a picnic, or even a swim. It’s also a great place for lunch. Sabores da Estrela was an incredible restaurant, but it recently closed. But this tiny village has other great restaurants, so make sure you try some migas or an açorda.

Granja

You’ll need to drive back to the M517, but only for a few meters. Turn right toward Amareleja/Granja. Follow the road for 15 minutes until you reach the N385, where you’ll take a left and, once again, return to the Alto Alentejo region. Granja is right ahead.

Granja is located next to one of the dam’s branches, the Alcarrache stream. Its heritage includes the Head Church, which stands out from the other houses in the village. Built in the 16th century, it has a rectangular floor plan and a large nave, and its interior contains paintings of great interest. Also noteworthy is the Church of Santa Casa da Misericórdia right in the center of the village.

Historically, little is known about the history of this village, largely due to the constant pillaging by the Spanish during the Restoration War. However, there are references dating back to the 13th century to a “Granja do Hospital”, administered by the regimental order of the Freires do Hospital.

It is, however, known that the Romans and Arabs also inhabited this region, leaving behind bridges over the rivers Alcarrache and Godelim, as well as several Moorish chimneys.

Aldeia da Luz

Aldeia da Luz Village Alqueva Alentejo Portugal
Aldeia da Luz, Photo by Rui Ornelas (Flickr)

The N358 will take you across one of the most beautiful bridges you’ll see in Portugal, over the Alqueva Lake. Once you get to Mourão, follow the directions to Estrela/Luz until you find yourself on the M517, where you’ll need to turn right after a while and head southwest until you reach Luz.

No other village is more symbolic than Aldeia da Luz. That’s because this is actually not the original village. The original village lies under the waters of the Alqueva Lake.  The new village was built in such a way as to essentially maintain the characteristics of the old village, inch by inch.

The issue of relocating the inhabitants of the village of Luz began in 1981. Three options were considered: compensate the inhabitants, transfer them to a neighboring village, or build a similar village. This last alternative was chosen and was preferred by the population, so construction began in 1998 and finished in 2002.

Today, it is a beautiful village right by the water and its recent construction gives it a very clean and neat look that makes it very unique. The village also has a museum dedicated to preserving the memory of the old village that is definitely worth stopping by.

Campinho

You’ll need to head back to Mourão and this time follow the directions to Reguengos de Monsaraz. This should put you on the N256 and, once again, you’ll drive across a bridge over the lake. If you look to your right, you’ll spot Ilha Dourada, an island with an artificial beach that you can visit by boat. It’s as peaceful as it gets. Once you get to Reguengos, follow the directions to Évora/São Marcos do Campo. Once you get to the N255, follow it until you reach Cumeada, then take a left to the M532 which will get you to Campinho in no time.

An airfield and mooring have been built next to the small village, so it has been the scene of various nautical and aeronautical activities. There is also a picnic area next to the Alqueva reservoir, which is a great place for a peaceful picnic.

At one end of the village is the Sagrado Coração de Jesus Church, built in the 20th century with architectural lines that represent the sobriety and monumentality of the Estado Novo. On the tower, the bells of the Braga Foundry are engraved with the date November 1957.

São Marcos do Campo

São Marcos do Campo is so close to Campinho that you could even walk your way there. It’s just four kilometers along the CM1129 in a nearly straight line.

The village of São Marcos do Campo, with a total of 840 inhabitants, is linked to the bank of the reservoir formed by the river Degebe, and to the village of Amieira on the opposite bank.  This village was built in the 13th century.

The Church of São Marcos do Campo was built in the 16th century, with references to it dating back to 1534. In the 18th century, it was completely remodeled and the body of the nave was enlarged.

Telheiro

Get back to Reguengos de Monsaraz and follow the indications to Monsaraz. Once you’re on the M514, follow it for about twenty minutes until you reach Telheiro on the foothill of Monsaraz.

The village of Telheiro is a small settlement in the parish of Monsaraz, which has developed in conjunction with the parish seat. It is located at the base of the hill on which Monsaraz stands, so there is reason to believe it was reserved for the commoners back in the day.

Its main tourist attractions are its fountain dating from the 18th century, as well as several megalithic monuments that demonstrate the occupation of this region in ancient times.

Monsaraz

Monsaraz Village Alqueva Alentejo Portugal
Monsaraz, Photo by Javier Habladorcito (Flickr)

I don’t think you need any directions given that you can see Monsaraz right ahead. Just go up the mountain, it’s not tricky at all.

Monsaraz lies next to the Guadiana on top of a hill that rises out of Alentejo’s never-ending plains. It was conquered from the Moors in 1167 by Geraldo Sem-Pavor and handed over to the Templars by King Sancho II for defense and settlement.

For centuries, the castle of Monsaraz played the role of a lookout point on the Guadiana, from where the border with Castile could be seen. It was the seat of the municipality until 1838 when this function passed to Reguengos.

The medieval town of Monsaraz, protected by its walls, is a small village with its schist streets and whitewashed walls. Its narrow streets are full of nooks and crannies and its backdrop is a breathtaking view of the Alentejo landscape and the Alqueva Lake.

Last Thoughts

And with several hotels and restaurants, and a castle you can visit for free, this is the perfect place to conclude our journey through the Alqueva Lake, watching the sunset with a glass of wine and a table full of bread, cheese, cold meats, and olives.

I really hope I was able to convince you to give this region a chance. As a local, I think there is a lot it can offer, and given that it’s fairly out of hand, it’s never too crowded, making it the perfect place for a pleasant and peaceful 2 or 3-day weekend.

As for the best time to come, the Alentejo is great year-round. In winter, it’s not too cold and not too rainy either. And by the end of December, you usually get very sunny days. Spring is usually a fan favorite, but March and April are quite unpredictable when it comes to the weather. May and June, while the temperature is getting warmer are great months to visit. July through September are great too, especially since there are many artificial beaches scattered around the region, so you get to escape the scorching heat.

But, whenever you decide to visit, I hope you have a great time!

Alentejo’s Açorda Recipe

zeeduardopenedo
-
0
Alentejo’s Açorda Recipe

Bread, water, garlic, olive oil, coriander and egg. That’s it. No, I’m not kidding, that’s how you make one of Portugal’s most beloved dishes. And it might come as a shock to you, but the bread doesn’t even need to be fresh or come from a specific region.

In this recipe, you’ll learn how to prepare an açorda in its purest form, but keep in mind that, much like migas, it is a very versatile dish that you can add all kinds of stuff to. Some people on the coast came up with the sea açorda, with either codfish or shrimp.

Others, particularly in the South, usually throw some pork ribs in it. Some people keep the bread slices whole, others prefer mashing it up. So, once you’re down with the basics, feel free to tweak it as you please.

BACK THEN

It seems unquestionable that “açorda” is a gift from the presence of the Arabs on Portuguese soil. It also seems that the açorda is a subsistence dish, probably as a result of food crises. And its arrival is due to its ease of preparation and, above all, the simple mix of basic products. Bread has always been, and still is, a staple of the Portuguese diet.

Analyzing the sources, the recipes, of the Arab presence on the peninsula, we find many soups to which crumbled or coarsely chopped bread was added. This seems to be the origin of the açorda. However, it is almost only in the south of the country that the name “açorda” is used. This term is never associated with the bread soups that are still made today in Beiras or Trás-os-Montes, so it’s safe to assume that the açorda prepared in the Alentejo is most likely the original one.

PORTIONS

3-4

INGREDIENTS

• 400g of wheat bread
• 300ml of water
• 4 cloves of garlic
• 6 teaspoons of olive oil
• 2 teaspoons of salt
• 2 or 3 sprigs of coriander
• 4 egg yolks

INSTRUCTIONS

  1. Start by sautéing with olive oil and chopped garlic. You can also crush the garlic with the salt in a mortar.
  2. Boil the water in a separate pan and hard-boil the eggs.
  3. Add the sliced bread to the sauté. Stir it lightly so the bread absorbs the olive oil and then add half of the coriander you are going to use. Stir well and add to the sauté.
  4. Gradually add the hot water. The açorda should be neither too liquid nor too hard. Once the bread reaches the desired consistency, don’t add any more water.
  5. Add the boiled eggs and serve immediately. With this technique, you can make any açorda you like.
  6. If you’d like to try a porridge-like açorda, all you need to do is stir the bread more often until it crumbles.

There you go, all done! One of the great things about the açorda, and most Portuguese dishes at large, is how often garlic and herbs are used. Garlic is known for being an almost miraculous product, boosting immunity and warding off coughs and colds.

For that reason, the açorda can also be seen (and consumed) as a Portuguese version of chicken soup. It’s great for when you’re ill or feeling weak, and I swear to God it tastes even better if you eat it in front of the fireplace, so make sure to try it this winter!

Bom apetite!

Portuguese Lamb Stew Recipe: Ensopado de Borrego

manuelcpocas
-
0
Portuguese Lamb Stew Recipe: Ensopado de Borrego

Lamb meat, which is very tender and succulent, is one of the most produced meats in Alentejo. The stew is the most popular dish made with this specific meat, not only because of the way it is cooked but also because of how it is presented.

This particular recipe is from a municipality in Évora District called Reguengos de Monsaraz. It is a true gem of Portuguese traditional cuisine. The popularity of lamb meat is showcased, to a large extent, by the municipality’s gastronomic week, which is dedicated specifically to the cooking and tasting of lamb dishes. This stew is one of that week’s most well-known, sought-after culinary delights.

Portuguese Lamb Stew Recipe

Ingredients (8 people)

  • 2 kg (4.4 pounds) of lamb meat
  • 500 grams (1.1 pounds) of onion
  • 2 tablespoons of flour
  • 200 grams (0.44 pounds) of lard
  • 5 garlic cloves
  • 1 bay leaf
  • 1 tablespoon of peppercorns
  • 1 dessertspoon of sweet paprika
  • 1 small chili pepper
  • 1 kg (2.2 pounds) of homemade bread
  • Salt

Instructions

  1. Start by cutting the lamb meat into pieces, and dip them in flour.
  2. Then, take 3 spoons out of the 200 grams of lard, and place the remaining inside a clay pot.
  3. Heat the clay pot with the lard inside it for a bit, place the meat on it, and let it fry for another bit until it is brown.
  4. On the side, in another clay pot, put the other 3 spoons of lard and braise the chopped onions, the sliced garlic cloves, and the peppercorns. Cook until the onions are soft and transparent.
  5. Then, add the already browned meat to the second clay pot, the remaining seasonings (bay leaf, sweet paprika, chili pepper, and salt), and enough water to make the stew (start with a bit of water, and you can add more later on, if you think it is necessary).
  6. Cover the pot and let it cook for one hour and a half, more or less, at medium/low heat.
  7. When it is done, taste it and rectify the seasoning if needed.

When serving, slice the bread and pour the broth on top. The meat will be served on the side, in another recipient, but at the same time as the bread with the broth.

Meet Marta Pereira da Costa, Lisbon’s queen of the Portuguese guitar

Becky Gillespie
-
0
Meet Marta Pereira da Costa, Lisbon’s queen of the Portuguese guitar

Meet Marta Pereira da Costa

Marta Pereira da Costa was born in Lisbon in 1982 and started her musical training with the piano at the age of 4 and studied classical guitar at 8. At 18, she began learning the Portuguese fado guitar under Carlos Gonçalves, Amália Rodrigues’ guitarist. Although she graduated in Civil Engineering and worked in the field for eight years, she left her profession in 2012 to dedicate herself entirely to music.

Photo by MIMO Festival, Flickr

She is recognized as the first woman to professionally play the Portuguese Guitar in fado, blending it with jazz, world, and Portuguese music. This innovation led to her receiving the “Instrumentalist Award” from the Amália Rodrigues Foundation in 2014. In 2016, Marta released her debut album with Warner Music Portugal, featuring contributions from global and Portuguese musicians like Richard Bona, Dulce Pontes, Camané, and Rui Veloso.

Her international performances have taken her across Brazil, the USA, Canada, and Europe, with appearances at venues like Teatro Tivoli, NOS Alive, MIMO Festival, and Lincoln Center.

Marta’s stage presence is captivating, marked by a blend of sensitivity, intensity, and dynamism. Her performances, whether in intimate settings or large outdoor events, are unique and reflect her deep connection with the Portuguese guitar.

New York Music Daily reflected, “In the world of fado, she’s a rarity, as a woman instrumentalist, composer and bandleader.”

Performances and Album

Marta frequently visited Lisbon’s Clube de Fado, learning from masters like Mário Pacheco and Fontes Rocha. She accompanied notable singers such as Cuca Roseta and Rodrigo Costa Félix. Marta also performed with famous artists like Mariza and Carlos do Carmo. She joined Mário Pacheco’s group, contributing to concerts worldwide, especially after their 2005 album, recognized by Songlines magazine.

Pereira da Costa participated in Jaime Roldán’s CD on the track “Pasa.” In 2008, she was a soloist in “Mãe” from her husband Rodrigo Costa Félix’s album. She recorded on Rodrigo’s second CD, “Fados de Amor,” marking the first time in Fado history that a Portuguese Guitar was exclusively played by a woman. Her eponymous solo album debuted in 2016.

Performing Fado on the International Stage

National Public Radio (NPR)’s YouTube channel, which started in 2008 and now has over 8.5 million YouTube subscribers, recently showcased Pereira da Costa on its Tiny Desk Concert series. The Tiny Desk Studio is actually the desk of NPR Music’s All Songs Considered host Bob Boilen, which is located in Washington, D.C., USA, and has featured the likes of Coldplay, Ed Sheeran, Taylor Swift, and Jacob Collier.

Marta Pereira da Costa’s fingerpicking prowess delights in her Tiny Desk appearance, appearing alongside second guitarist João José Pita Junior and percussionist Pedro Segundo. Her entire performance is a musical journey through Portugal, from land to sea and everything in between. She plays four songs during a nearly 21-minute performance starting with “Terra” all the way through “Dia de Feira.”

You can enjoy her performance below.   

Marta Pereira da Costa’s journey is a testament to innovation in traditional music forms. She has redefined the role of the Portuguese Guitar, creating a new path for the instrument and inspiring future generations of musicians.

To see Pereira da Costa’s upcoming schedule, please check her schedule here and get more information on Facebook.

Fado Tours in Lisbon

If you would like to catch fado in Lisbon, Pereira da Costa’s hometown, there are a number of options to try.

Fado in Chiado offers a daily live traditional fado show. It features a guitar, viola, and two singers. The show lasts under an hour in Chiado, immersing guests in fado’s melancholic vibes. Skip-the-line tickets are available, with drinks extra.

Explore Alfama’s fado roots with a guided tour, including Mouraria. The tour involves a traditional fado house visit and a typical dinner in Alfama. The tour includes a fado show entry and a drink.

Book Live Fado & Alfama Tour with Traditional Dinner

For romance, try a sunset walking tour in Lisbon, ending with a fado show and dinner. Learn about Alfama’s heritage and enjoy ginjinha liquor. Post-sunset, savor a 3-course meal with fado entertainment.

Book Sunset Walking Tour with Fado Dinner

For a unique experience, join a 4-hour walking tour with a fado singer. The tour covers historical streets, public squares, and taverns. Enjoy live fado performances and Portuguese snacks like chourico and caldo verde.

Book a Walking Tour with a Fado Singer

Portugal’s Lighthouse Road Trip

zeeduardopenedo
-
0
Portugal’s Lighthouse Road Trip

One of my favorite poems is Dylan Thomas’ “Do not go gentle into that good night” and there’s one particular line that always makes me think of lighthouses – “rage against the dying of the light.” There is something almost magical about lighthouses with their incessant lights beaming towards the seemingly infinite ocean ahead.

Well, it so happens that Portugal has almost 1800 kilometers of coastline, nearly 1000 of those on the mainland, so lighthouses are not too hard to find.

This got me thinking, after hearing about the mythical Nacional 2, how it would be really cool to drive from Viana do Castelo all the way up North to the legendary Cape St. Vincent, the southwesternmost point in mainland Europe, before ending the trip at Vila Real de Santo António, a stone throw away from Spain.

Did that sound intriguing? What if I told you, as you might have already figured out, that this whole road trip also takes you along Portugal’s best beaches? That ought to make you excited, right? Especially if you’re into surf and water sports since Portugal has some of the best conditions for those. So let’s dive in, we have a long journey ahead. A journey that will take us through ten of Portugal’s districts and leave us craving for more.

lighthouse Portugal sunset
Barra Beach Lighthouse, Photo by Paulo Resende, (Unsplash)

LIGHT… HOUSE?

First things first. What is, after all, a lighthouse? Is it just a spot along the coast with a light pointed toward the sea? Well, it is that, but not only that. A lighthouse is a clearly visible elevated structure on top of which a light is placed to aid navigation. It essentially consists of the building (the “house” in “lighthouse”), the light source, and the optical apparatus.

Lighthouses are placed on coasts, islands, shallows, etc., and sometimes they’re even mounted on special boats so that they are a visible mark at sea. The characteristics of a lighthouse are its color, character, period and phases, light intensity, and range. By day, the shape and color of the lighthouse building serve as recognition, and by night, the characteristics of the light.

So, no, contrary to popular belief, lighthouses aren’t just useful at night. Sure, it serves to guide navigators by light at night, but it also serves to guide them by the body of the building by day. Navigators can usually tell where they are by recognizing the distinct shape of the lighthouse ahead, which is why lighthouses tend not to have similar designs.

A BIT OF HISTORY

The first references to the use of bonfires kept at conspicuous points or in towers by fishing communities for the reference of navigators, and later by religious brotherhoods, date back to the beginning of the 16th century.

In Portugal, the first structure to be classified as a lighthouse was ordered to be erected in 1528 at the mouth of the River Douro by Bishop Miguel da Silva, at São Miguel o Anjo. Next to the site where, until 2008, the Cantareira lighthouse was in operation.

There are also references to a lighthouse erected by the Bishop of the Algarve, D. Fernando Coutinho, in the convent of São Vicente, sometime between 1515 and 1520, and that, in 1537, the friars of the Brotherhood of Nossa Senhora da Guia de Cascais built a tower to serve as a lighthouse.

However, it wasn’t until February 1, 1758, when the Marquis of Pombal issued a decree, that the lighthouse service became an official organization, entrusted to the Board of Trade, following which the construction of lighthouses was ordered, the first of which was Nossa Senhora da Luz in 1761.

Since then, responsibility for the operation and maintenance of the structures has passed through various entities until, in 1892, it was finally assigned to the Ministry of the Navy and Overseas Territories, which is part of the Ministry of Defense nowadays.

OUR JOURNEY BEGINS

Just a heads up before we turn on the ignition. Portugal has 56 lighthouses scattered along the coast, 30 of them on its mainland. Some are imponent buildings, others are simple structures. But, in this article, we’ll focus on the fourteen lighthouses in mainland Portugal that are open for visits.

Before you visit them, make sure to check their websites because there are different operation times depending on the season and they might be going through renovations.

Finally, this road trip has the particularity of allowing you to choose which roads to take. You can drive along the highway from Viana do Castelo to Lisbon and for most of the Algarve coastline. But, if you have the time and feel like exploring other locations during your trip, I highly recommend that you take the more scenic routes along the coast.

MONTEDOR LIGHTHOUSE

We start our journey at a centennial lighthouse. In fact, it was built in 1910, the same year Portugal became a republic. In civil architecture, the lighthouse has a U-shaped plan with the entrance facing north and the tower in the center. The building is made of stonework and wedges of split stonework, ending in a double frieze.

This lighthouse is located in Viana do Castelo, one of the most beautiful cities in the north of Portugal. Its participation in the Portuguese Discoveries and, later, in cod fishing shows its traditional connection to the sea, so it was always an obvious spot to build a lighthouse.

Viana do Castelo is also considered a “Mecca of Architecture” thanks to the many important names in contemporary Portuguese architecture who have designed the city’s facilities and spaces. From the hill of Santa Luzia, you can see the privileged geographical location of the city, next to the sea and the mouth of the River Lima. This breathtaking view and the Temple of the Sacred Heart of Jesus, a revivalist building by Ventura Terra from 1898, can be the starting point for visiting the city.

BOA NOVA LIGHTHOUSE

Leça da Palmeira Portugal
Leça da Palmeira, Photo by Rui Alves (Unsplash)

You might feel drawn to Porto, but let me make a case for Leça da Palmeira. And I’ll start with its lighthouse. The Boa Nova Lighthouse, or Leça Lighthouse, is a white conical tower 46 meters high and 57 meters above sea level, inaugurated in 1927. It has an annex building housing a museum with a collection related to lighthouses that is well worth a visit.

Leça da Palmeira is a working-class city, intrinsically linked with some of the most important industries in the country. Up until recently, it was home to the largest oil refinery in Portugal, it is right next to Matosinhos which is home to one of the most important ports in the country, and it holds a long fishing tradition.

As a result of being a city born around its rich sea and fertile land, traditions are divided between activities linked to the ocean and those linked to agriculture. In preserving and disseminating these traditions, we should highlight the work carried out by the Rancho Típico da Amorosa, which is recognized worldwide and has toured many countries.

Leça da Palmeira is well-known for the Boa Nova Tea House and the Marés Swimming Pool, both works by the illustrious architect from Matosinhos, Siza Vieira, and both national monuments. But if you’ve brought your surfing board, you’re in for a treat. With a long stretch of sand bathed by the sea with strong waves, the Leça da Palmeira beach offers excellent conditions for surfing, bodyboarding, and kitesurfing, especially at its northern end, where it borders the Aterro beach.

BARRA LIGHTHOUSE

Barra Lighthouse Aveiro Portugal
Barra Lighthouse, Photo by Ricardo Resende (Unsplash)

Leaving the Porto district behind, you start to feel a bit itchy to visit a large city. Well, welcome to Aveiro, also known as “Portugal’s Venice”. And it’s very easy to understand why as soon as you start walking through the city’s downtown with its quaint canals where the traditional moliceiros glide through the calm waters.

The Barra Lighthouse is the largest lighthouse on the Portuguese coast and the second largest on the Iberian Peninsula. It was built in the 19th century, electrified in 1936, and automated in 1990. From the top of the lighthouse, you can enjoy an excellent view over the beaches of Ílhavo and the surrounding coastline.

But canals are not the only highlight when you visit Aveiro. The pastel-colored Art Nouveau buildings are iconic and there are few places more Instagrammable in Portugal. One of those just happens to be the contrasting colorful Costa Nova beach houses, with their iconic, stripped façades, they delight any visitor.

While you’re in town, make sure you visit the famous fish market, home to some of Aveiro’s best seafood restaurants. Nearby you’ll find numerous restaurants and a wide range of stores and bars. Choose one of the traditional cafés as you stroll around the city and taste the divine ovos moles, which are the district’s specialty dessert.

CAPE MONDEGO LIGHTHOUSE

Figueira da Foz Portugal
Figueira da Foz, Photo by Paulo Victor (Unsplash)

Located in the Boa Viagem Forest Park, the original tower dates back to the 19th century and served as a lighthouse until the early 20th century. The building consists of a central tower and two longitudinal bodies and the initial design had a second-order Fresnel lenticular optic powered by olive oil.

The lighthouse is located just a few kilometers north of Figueira da Foz. And Figueira da Foz has the peculiarity of being virtually unknown to foreigners. But to the Portuguese it is known for three things: its 120-year-old casino, its kickass New Year’s firework displays, and its raging Carnival. It’s not exactly Vegas, but you’re bound to have a fun time while you’re there.

Considered the “Queen of the Silver Coast” due to its long beaches, tourism is indeed one of its main economic resources and is one of the main tourist centers in the country, surrounded by the Atlantic Ocean, the Mondego River, and the densely wooded Boa Viagem mountain range, which gives it its unique characteristics.

One of the charms of Figueira da Foz is the beach with its striped wooden bars and its expanse of soft white sand. Known as “Praia da Claridade“, this vast stretch of sand was already favored by the aristocratic class at the end of the 19th century. Its 10 km-long waterfront promenade, with a river and seafront, allows for long walks or bike rides along the cycle path that runs along the banks of the River Mondego and the Atlantic Ocean.

PENEDO DA SAUDADE LIGHTHOUSE

The Penedo da Saudade Lighthouse, consisting of a 32-meter-high tower, which gives it an altitude of 55 meters, went into operation on February 15, 1912. One of the most significant periods in the lighthouse’s history was between March 1916 and December 1919, when it was switched off due to World War I.

This lighthouse is located in São Pedro de Moel, one of the most emblematic beaches on the central Portuguese coast, located on the border between the Leiria National Forest and the Atlantic Ocean. The town and the beach offer a fusion of sea, pine forest, history, architecture, and poetry, enveloped in an atmosphere of tranquility.

These characteristics, together with its privileged geographical location, give São Pedro de Moel a stamp of natural beauty and make it one of the most beautiful and attractive places in mainland Portugal. So much so that, as far back as the 14th Century, the king granted it as a gift to the noblemen.

Just a few kilometers further inland, you’ll find Marinha Grande. Fueled by the abundance of raw materials needed for its manufacture, firewood, and sand, this city has become the center of Portuguese glass and crystal manufacture, which bears the mark of the mastery of many generations of worker-artists in the production of unique pieces of renowned quality throughout the world.

CAPE CARVOEIRO LIGHTHOUSE

Located on the Peniche Peninsula a few meters from the Church of Nossa Senhora da Vitória, this quadrangular masonry tower lighthouse with a beautiful red balcony overlooks the Atlantic 57 meters from the shoreline. This lighthouse is one of the few Portuguese lighthouses ordered to be built by the Pombaline decree of 1758 and its history dates back to 1790, when it first shone its light over the sea of Peniche.

Peniche and the sea are inextricably linked. It is one of Portugal’s largest traditional fishing ports and a major Atlantic center for maritime tourist activities. In addition to fishing, which has naturally always been one of the population’s sources of income, Peniche is also known for the art of bobbin lace, which the women dedicated themselves to perfecting while the men were at sea.

Before heading to the beach, a visit to Peniche should include a walk through the historic center. In addition to the Sanctuary of Nossa Senhora dos Remédios, the Churches of São Pedro, and Misericórdia, the highlight is the Fort of Peniche, built in the 17th century to defend the coast.

It was important to Portugal’s history at various times, but it’s important to note that its most recent contribution was as a political prison during the Estado Novo, where some of the most important public figures in the resistance to the regime were held.

BERLENGA LIGHTHOUSE

Island Berlengas Portugal
Berlenga Island, Photo by Sir Simo (Unsplash)

Now, to visit this one, you’ll need to park your car and put your road trip on hold for a bit. Head to Peniche’s port and hop on a boat headed to the Berlengas islands, which is where you’ll find this next lighthouse. I promise you, the boat ride might be a bit bumpy, but it’s well worth it.

The Berlengas are an archipelago of granitic islands located 15 km off the west coast of Peniche. The archipelago is made up of 3 islets: Berlenga Grande, Estelas, and Farilhões-Forcados, but it is Berlenga Grande that stands out due to its larger size. Here you’ll find nature at its purest, landscapes that leave you speechless, and a sea watercolor that’s simply irresistible. It’s one of the best places for diving and birdwatching in Portugal.

The confluence of the Mediterranean and Atlantic climates has created a unique ecosystem in the world with characteristic fauna and flora, together with geomorphology distinct from that of mainland Europe, in the Berlengas Islands. The fauna and flora are unique, which makes the Berlengas a biological heritage of high conservation interest.

CAPE ROCA LIGHTHOUSE

Cape Roca Portugal
Cape Roca Lighthouse, Photo by Claudio Schwarz (Unsplash)

Cabo da Roca is the most westerly point on the European continent, located at the end of the Serra de Sintra, and one of Portugal’s most emblematic sites. Dating back to 1722, it consists of a 22-meter-high tower and its light has a luminous range of around 26 nautical miles, approximately 48 kilometers.

Sintra is a town located to the west of Lisbon and in the center of the Serra de Sintra, in a region of pine-covered hills. The slightly milder climate than the capital attracted Portugal’s nobility and elite, who built exquisite palaces, extravagant residences, and decorative gardens there.

The variety of fascinating monuments and historic buildings make Sintra a highly regarded tourist destination. Most travelers follow the popular route of a day in Sintra, which includes visits to the National Palace, with its Gothic architecture, the ruins of the Moorish Castle, and the splendid Pena Palace.

However, to fully discover Sintra, you should also visit Quinta da Regaleira, the grand Monserrate Palace, and the austere Capuchos Convent.

CAPE ESPICHEL LIGHTHOUSE

Sesimbra Portugal
Sesimbra, Photo by Alexandre Contador (Unsplash)

At an altitude of 168 meters above sea level, the Cape Espichel Lighthouse has a light range of approximately 48 kilometers and produces a white light that emits three lightning bolts every 12 seconds. Don’t forget to visit the Sanctuary of Nossa Senhora of Cape Espichel, where dinosaur footprints can be seen on the cliffs.

The cape is located near the picturesque fishing village of Sesimbra, situated next to a sheltered bay, on top of the hill, around the Moorish castle which is now a must-visit point from where you can admire a truly breathtaking view of the village and the sea.

It was the wealth of fish in the Sesimbra Sea that led the population to come down from the top of the hill and move to its surroundings, turning the town into one of the region’s main fishing ports.

Special mention should also be made of the excellent regional cuisine, in which seafood and fresh fish are the main ingredients, and which can be enjoyed in the many restaurants here.

CAPE SARDÃO LIGHTHOUSE

Sudoeste Alentejano Natural Park Portugal
Sudoeste Alentejano Natural Park, Photo by Miguel Bernardo (Unsplash)

This lighthouse has a special place in my heart because it was the first one I ever visited, back when I was a kid, during Summer vacation. I was fascinated by its 17-meter-high tower and I loved to climb all the way up to learn how its mechanisms work. I distinctly remember the sun setting on the horizon and seeing the light being turned on.

If you look at a map, you’ll quickly realize that there are no big cities around this lighthouse. In fact, there are barely any towns or villages, so make sure you come prepared. But the great thing is that the lighthouse is located in the Southwest Alentejo Natural Park, an incredibly beautiful and peaceful location.

The daytime breeze makes you forget about worries, rushing around, and bad moods. Here, everything is relative. All that matters is the communion of the senses. The overwhelming beauty and intoxicating peace will “force” you into introspection, an abandonment of the superfluous, and an easy search for happiness.

CAPE OF ST. VINCENT LIGHTHOUSE

cape st. vincent lighthouse sagres portugal
Cape of St. Vincent Lighthouse, Photo by Alexander Edwards (Unsplash)

If you like to have neatly brushed hair, you might want to skip this one, as it’s probably the windiest place I’ve ever been to. It’s actually a pretty cool location too because the lighthouse itself is located in the same complex as the fortress of Sagres and the Corvo Convent.

Sagres, which is located at the crossroads between the Mediterranean Sea and the Atlantic Ocean, has been a port for fishermen and traders from various nations since time immemorial, but it has also been plagued by corsairs. It is the embodiment of the Portuguese sense of discovery.

The policy of Portuguese expansion in the 15th and 16th centuries led to the foundation of Vila do Infante. Thus, Vila do Infante and Sagres are intertwined in the course of time. It is a place of memory where nature, the sacred and man have always combined in a symbiotic way, generating religious cults and historical, political, and tourist myths, making it well worth a visit.

ALFANZINA LIGHTHOUSE

Portimão Marina Portugal
Portimão, Photo by Tânia Mousinho (Unsplashed)

The Alfanzina Lighthouse consists of a white, quadrangular masonry tower with an attached building, topped by a red cylindrical lantern. It’s located in a prime location because it’s right between the major beach destinations of Portimão and Armação de Pêra, and quite close to the cool town of Lagoa.

Portimão, with its picturesque turn-of-the-century historic center, the photogenic Arade Estuary, the trails along otherworldly cliffs, the superb views from the belvederes, the natural silence of the lively Ria de Alvor, the hot summer evenings wandering along the Passeio da Ribeirinha or in the Marina, ending with bar-hopping on Avenida Tomás Cabreira, is an absolute must.

In Lagoa, you can visit what has already been voted one of the most beautiful beaches in the world, the Marinha beach, or one of Portugal’s most famous caves, the Benagil caves. You can also hike over the cliffs, along the 7 Hanging Valleys, a route that has already been voted the best in Europe for walking.

SANTA MARIA LIGHTHOUSE

Farol Island beach Faro Portugal
Farol Island, Photo by Felipe Castilla

The Santa Maria Lighthouse, better known simply as “Farol“, is located at one end of Culatra Island in Faro, which the locals call Farol Island. There’s a boat that takes you specifically to Farol and another to Culatra from Olhão.

Let me tell you that this is one of my favorite spots to relax and sunbathe in Portugal. The island has a village full of white, blue, and yellow houses built by the local fishermen that give it a very charming look. There are restaurants on the island and the fish and seafood are divine, so make sure you don’t skip lunch!

After that, don’t forget to visit Faro, the third most important city in the country, but its monuments and downtown are still a bit underappreciated by the tourists who usually just rush to the beaches around the city. A night stroll through downtown Faro during Summer is a great way to recharge your batteries.

VILA REAL DE SANTO ANTÓNIO LIGHTHOUSE

Vila Real de Santo António architecture Portugal
Vila Real de Santo António, Photo by Adrián Macías (Unsplashed)

Ah, and here we are, our last stop. With a 46-meter tower, a staircase with more than 220 steps, and a range of 48 kilometers, this lighthouse is a landmark on the east coast of the Algarve and still serves today as a reference point for ships navigating in Portuguese and Spanish waters.

The long-named town where the lighthouse is located was founded in 1774, by the express will of the Marquis of Pombal, near the mouth of the Guadiana. The city is an important historical testimony due to the fact that it was built from scratch in just two years, and the neoclassical layout of Lisbon’s Baixa Pombalina was followed, by a series of straight, perpendicular streets.

And, with the Spanish city of Ayamonte just a bridge away, Vila Real de Santo António, with its warm and calm waters, away from the crowds of central Algarve, feels like the perfect place to sit on the sand and enjoy the end of this trip that took us across the whole country both vertically and horizontally.

LAST THOUGHTS

So, what did you think of Portugal’s lighthouses? Did you notice how different they all were? Which one became your favorite? Don’t forget that there are dozens more and, even if they’re not visitable, you can still appreciate them from the outside.

I hope this trip was worth your time. It’s a great alternative to the Nacional 2 road trip and a great way to discover the whole country while still enjoying the two things that made Portugal famous: the beaches and the food. But now that you’re in southeast Portugal, why not follow the Border Castles Road Trip all the way to the North?

The twins and 4 million euro treatment in the public health system

manuelcpocas
-
0
The twins and 4 million euro treatment in the public health system

A couple of days before Christmas, the Portuguese Socialist Party rejected the petitions for the parliamentary hearings concerning the twins’ case.

During 2019 and 2020, two Brazilian twins of Portuguese descendancy, who were, at the time, 15 months old, accessed the Portuguese public services, requested, and received a very expensive medical treatment costing the state 4 million euros. 

Given the strangeness of the process by which the twins were able to access the treatment, some figures started raising questions about how it all went down. As a result, eventually, it became one of the most mediatic judicial cases in Portugal.

Even though it all happened almost 4 years ago, the situation started being investigated by the Public Ministry only at the beginning of November. According to the intelligence retrieved and released by one of the main television channels in Portugal (TVI), there are 5 mysteries around this case that raise suspicions of possible corruption.

First and foremost, Portuguese nationality was obtained in record time. In order for the twins to be able to come to Portugal and receive the treatment, they needed Portuguese nationality. This is, most of the time, a long process. To provide an example, a girl who was pregnant, whose father was Portuguese, and who came to Portugal for her master’s degree, only got her nationality 8 months after initiating the process.

The twins, on the other hand, got their nationality in 13 or 14 days. Even though there are some cases that are processed faster than others, legal experts who were contacted by the media commented on the strangeness of the quick timeframe.

Second, the special request for the expensive medicine was approved in two days. Note that the medicine Zolgensma is known as ‘the most expensive medicine in the world’ and has a price of around 2 million euros.

At the time, the medicine, which was used by the twins, was not on the market yet. For that reason, the parents had to ask for special authorization of utilization. According to the National Index of Access to Hospital Medicines, this type of special authorization takes an average of 17 days to be accepted. In the case of the twins, it took only two days.

Third, the special request was approved on a Saturday. Apart from taking only two days, the special authorization of utilization requested by the twins’ parents was approved by Infarmed (official entity that regulates the utilization of medicine, among other things) during a weekend. According to the former president of Infarmed, the entity is closed on Saturdays and Sundays. Although it may exceptionally operate if it is a life or death situation, this was not the case.

Fourth, ‘the most expensive medicine in the world’ does not add much in terms of efficacy. One of the letters that reached the Portuguese authorities and that led to the development of the twins’ process mentioned the medicine as being ‘the only hope for a cure’. However, the twins suffer from spinal muscular atrophy and, according to experts, there is no cure for such illness.

Moreover, the official studies made by the relevant authorities state that there is no therapeutic advantage to taking Zolgensma. The only advantage is convenience. Contrary to other medicines, Zolgensma is only administered once throughout the life of the patient.

Fifth, the twins’ parents requested and received four very expensive electric wheelchairs. According to all the invoices, which were analyzed by TVI, the Hospital ordered and paid four wheelchairs for the twins. Each costs around 58 thousand euros. Until today, no other Portuguese children, independently of the case and diagnostic, got one of these chairs. The twins got four, and two of them are still to be taken from the hospital.

How could this all be? How could the Portuguese National Health Service spend more than 4 million euros on a treatment under such circumstances? Note that the twins came to Portugal to receive the treatment, which was subsidized by the National Health Service, and immediately returned to Brazil.

According to the intelligence retrieved by TVI, the mother of the twins confirmed the existence of Presidential influence. She stated: “We used our contacts. (..) I knew the President’s Daughter-in-Law, who knew the Minister of Health that sent an email to the Hospital”.

The Portuguese President, Marcelo Rebelo de Sousa, affirmed at first that he had nothing to do with the process. However, he ended up saying that in 2019 he got an email from his son, Nuno Rebelo de Sousa, about the twins’ cases at Santa Maria Hospital to which he argues he merely forwarded the email to the right institutions. 

It’s now public knowledge that his son was highly involved in the case. Notwithstanding, he cannot be the only one to have led to this result. 

For that reason, and in order to understand how this could all be, apart from the investigation of the Public Ministry, the opposing political parties requested parliamentary hearings with the twins’ parents, the son of the Portuguese President of the Republic, the former Secretary of State of Health (who was in office between 2019 and 2022), and the former Minister of Health (in office between 2018 and 2022).

However, a couple of days before Christmas, the Socialist Party rejected the hearings. The opposing parties accuse it of keeping the Portuguese citizens from the truth, blocking public interest.

7 Best Wineries in the Setúbal Peninsula

mihaelagutu
-
0
7 Best Wineries in the Setúbal Peninsula

Setúbal is primarily renowned for its natural beauties – a myriad of stunning beaches, unbelievably beautiful natural parks, as well as historical, archaeological, and paleontological landmarks.

Besides its natural charm, however, the peninsula of Setúbal is home to world-class wineries. In fact, the region is thought to be the first to exploit Portuguese land for winemaking.

Between the 12th and the 16th centuries, Setúbal was the country’s most important wine-exporting region. Its wines reached Angola, India, Brazil, and many other regions.

Needless to say, the region prides itself on the Setúbal Moscatel, by far the most iconic Portuguese wine. Although we cannot trace its history accurately due to lack of evidence, we know that its worldwide fame was brought by Richard II, who loved the Setúbal Moscatel and imported it regularly.

Its popularity increased significantly during the 17th century thanks to the preference of Louis XIV of France to have the Moscatel available for all dinners and parties.

Why are we even still talking about the history of Setubal wines? Let’s get down to business! Keep reading to discover seven wineries in Setúbal you’ll want to check out if you’re a wine aficionado or even connoisseur!

1. Jose Maria da Fonseca Manor House

Location: Quinta Da Bassaqueira – Estrada Nacional 10, 2925-511 Vila Nogueira de Azeitão, Setúbal, Portugal

With a history spanning almost two centuries, Jose Maria da Fonseca welcomes visitors from all over the world. Its Museum House was built in the 19th century, although it was restored 100 years ago. The territory is also equipped with splendid gardens, which any tourist will delight in!

Your visit will begin with unraveling the company’s history. Then, you’ll step into the wine cellars called Adega dos Teares Novos and Adega da Mata. Some of the wines you’ll see there are over 100 years old!

At the end of the tour, you’ll have the opportunity to taste some of the best wines, which you can learn about beforehand by contacting the Museum House. In addition, there’s also a wine shop, so prepare your wallet because there’s no way you’ll leave without a bottle of one of the best Setúbalense wines!

Photo by Vitor Oliveira (Flickr)

2. Quinta de Alcube

Location: Rua do Alto das Necessidades, n.º 93, Quinta de Alcube 2925-055 Azeitão, Portugal

Are you looking for a winery located in the heart of nature so you can enjoy a glass of the world’s best wines surrounded by serenity and tranquility? If so, Quinta de Alcube is definitely your best choice!

It is located in the Natural Park of Arrabida. Once you turn toward the path that gets you to the winery, nature will embrace you with its beauty and silence. The main road to the winery will make you feel like you’ve stepped onto a magical realm. You’ll soon learn why!

If you choose to visit Quinta de Alcube, you can opt for one of the three wine tourism options:

  • Wine cellar visit and wine tasting, which includes two red and one white wine, as well as Alcubissimo if available; it also includes crackers and chips.
  • Wine cellar visit, wine tasting & cheese, which includes two red and two white wines, Alcubissimo if available, as well as sheep cheese, bread, crackers, and jam.
  • Wine cellar visit, wine tasting, cheese, chorizo & ham, which includes two red and two white wines, Alcubissimo if available, sheep cheese, chorizo, ham, bread, and crackers.

Besides unfolding the secrets of winemaking, you’ll enjoy the surroundings, as well as the animals that live on the territory, including some horses! At the end of your visit, you can buy a bottle of quality wine as a souvenir.

3. Quinta do Piloto

Location: Rua Helena Cardoso, Quinta do Piloto, 2950-131, Palmela, Portugal

The history of Quinta do Piloto takes us back to 1900 when Humberto da Silva Cardoso left Portugal for Brazil. Unfortunately, he didn’t find his luck there, so he returned to Palmela, where he started a business in the automotive industry.

Then, Humberto invested the profits from that business into viticulture by buying three estates: Fonte da Barreira, Lau, and Alboal. In addition, he built two wineries – Quinta do Piloto and Adega da Serra. This was the beginning of the Cardoso family wine business.

Shortly after, Casa Agricola Humberto Cardoso became the largest and most renowned wine producer in the region. The Quinta do Piloto project we learn about today appeared in 2008 and is regarded as the culmination of Cardoso’s business plans.

Tourists can book a tour through the Quinta do Piloto wine cellars, during which they can try some of the best wines. There’s no need to worry if you’re looking for a place to stay. Quinta do Piloto offers accommodation services – nicely decorated rooms that provide visitors with an authentic experience of Portuguese culture. It’s only 30 minutes away from the Lisbon airport and 20 minutes from the famous beaches in Arrabida.

Photo by Magnus Reuterdahl (Flickr)

4. Casa Ermelinda Freitas

Location: Rua Manuel João de Freitas, Fernando Pó, 2965-595 Águas de Moura, Portugal

Casa Ermelinda Freitas winery was established a century ago, in 1920. However, the name “Casa Ermelinda Freitas” appeared only in 2002, when the estate extended so much that it had around 100 hectares of vineyards. Until then, the company sold the wine unbranded and in bulk. Over the years, it gained notoriety, becoming one of the country’s most appreciated wine producers.

Today, the Casa Ermelinda estate has 315 hectares and additional territories of roughly 300 hectares owned by small-scale producers with which the winery has purchasing agreements.

If you choose to visit Casa Ermelinda, you’ll learn about various winemaking processes and discover the history of the family that built this prestigious winery. Visitors have access to the vineyards, the winemaking center, the Museum of Memories (the old wine cellar of the family), as well as the Sala de Ouro, where the highest distinctions awarded to the winery are on display.

5. Venâncio da Costa Lima

Location: Rua Venâncio da Costa Lima, 139, 2950-701 Quinta do Anjo, Portugal

Venâncio da Costa Lima dates back to 1914. The business was built by Venâncio, a young man whose first job was in the butchery industry. He worked as a livestock tradesman, which ended up being the key to his success, as it prompted him to diversify his business.

At first, Casa Agricola Venâncio da Costa Lima was selling wine, grain, and olive oil. Only 15 years after its foundation, the winery became the second largest in the area. It is still a family-owned business, producing a myriad of wines, including the famous Setúbal Moscatel, which is now recognized by Muscats du Monde as the world’s best Moscatel.

Visiting Venâncio da Costa Lima winery makes for an insightful experience that opens the doors to the universe of winemaking. Tourists will discover some secrets regarding the production of quality white and red wine, as well as Setubal Moscatel wines.

During the visit, you’ll have the opportunity to taste wines, homemade bread, Azeitão cheese, and smoked sausages – in short, everything you need for an authentic Portuguese wine-culinary experience. After the tour, visitors are guided to the “Old Cellar.” 

6. Bacalhôa Vinhos de Portugal

Location: Estrada Nacional nº 10, 2925-901 Vila Nogueira de Azeitão, Portugal

A visit to the Bacalhôa wineries takes us back to the 1920s, enriching our trip historically, culturally, and traditionally. The brand is by far among the most renowned and extensive in Portugal, spanning over 1200 hectares of vineyards with 40 different varieties. In addition, the company has four wine cellars.

There are multiple Bacalhôa locations you can choose from, although we recommend starting with the Bacalhôa Adega Museu and Palácio da Bacalhôa in Azeitão.

During your wine tour, you’ll have the possibility to taste the best wines produced by the company. Even more, the tasting room overlooks the estate’s gorgeous Japanese garden, which features several works signed by Niizuma. Can you wish for more?!

Photo by Vitor Oliveira (Flickr)

7. Adega de Palmela

Location: Rua da Adega Cooperativa, 2950-401 Palmela, Portugal

As you’ve probably already noticed, Palmela is a true gem for anyone looking for an authentic wine-tasting experience.

Adega de Palmela was founded in 1955 when it had only 50 members who put in their efforts to produce 1.5 million liters of wine. Today, the winery has over 300 members and 1000 hectares of vineyards. It can reach 8–10 million liters of wine.

Any tourists planning to visit Adega de Palmela will get an inside view of the winemaking process. By the end of the tour, you’ll reach the wine cellar, where you’ll experience the unique pleasure of wine tasting and admire the oak barrels.

The tour costs only 6EUR and includes three types of wines you can taste. If you want to try some regional products or premium wines, the fee goes up a little.

Arroz Doce: The Classic Portuguese Rice Pudding Recipe

Becky Gillespie
-
0
Arroz Doce: The Classic Portuguese Rice Pudding Recipe

Arroz doce, a beloved Portuguese rice pudding, has a rich history dating back to the sixth century BC. Initially, records show rice boiled in milk with sugar. The dish’s origins trace back to when cane sugar from India reached the Middle East, where rice cultivation was already prevalent.

This dessert, often made with coconut milk in Asia, quickly gained popularity. By the thirteenth century, molasses was replaced with refined sugar in Europe, giving arroz doce its characteristic white color. The eighteenth century marked the moment when arroz doce gained prominence in European cookbooks.

Over time, arroz doce became a popular dessert in Portuguese households, especially during Christmas, Sunday lunches, weddings, and other festive occasions. 

What is arroz doce?

Arroz doce, or Portuguese rice pudding or sweet rice, is a staple dessert in Portugal, embodying the essence of warm and simple comfort food. But what exactly is arroz doce? It’s a creamy, sweet rice pudding, often infused with the subtle flavors of lemon and cinnamon.

Like many traditional Portuguese dishes, arroz doce is deeply rooted in the country’s culinary history, with variations found in every region. A common element across these variations is the use of simple ingredients like rice, milk, sugar, and eggs, turning them into a dish that’s both modest yet also luxurious.

Arroz doce. Photo by Basílio C. Vieira (Flickr)

Arroz Doce, the Classic Portuguese Rice Pudding Recipe

6-8 Portions 

Ingredients

  • 1 cup short-grain white rice
  • 4 cups whole milk
  • 1 cup granulated sugar
  • A pinch of salt
  • Lemon peel from one lemon
  • 1 cinnamon stick
  • 3 egg yolks, beaten
  • Ground cinnamon for garnish

Instructions

  1. Begin by rinsing the rice under cold water. In a large saucepan, combine the rice, 4 cups of milk, lemon peel, cinnamon stick, and a pinch of salt. Cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until the rice is tender and the mixture has thickened.
  2. Once the rice is cooked, add sugar and cook for an additional 5-10 minutes, stirring continuously. The mixture should have a creamy consistency.
  3. In a separate bowl, beat the egg yolks. Gradually add a cup of the hot rice mixture to the yolks, stirring constantly to temper them. Then, slowly pour the yolk mixture back into the saucepan, stirring continuously.
  4. Cook the mixture over low heat for a few more minutes until it thickens slightly. Be careful not to let it boil.
  5. Remove the lemon peel and cinnamon stick. Pour the arroz doce into a serving dish or individual bowls. Let it cool slightly, then sprinkle the top with ground cinnamon for garnish.
  6. Allow the arroz doce to cool down, then refrigerate it for a few hours before serving.

Resist the temptation to eat it all by yourself. You can also find arroz doce as one of the traditional Portuguese flavors offered at ice cream shops in tourist areas such as Sintra and Lagos. Keep your eyes open for it, but there is nothing like a freshly made arroz doce.

The Great Border Castles Road Trip

zeeduardopenedo
-
0
The Great Border Castles Road Trip

You heard about the Nacional 2, the legendary road that cut through Portugal right through the middle, but maybe you’re afraid it might be a bit too congested. You’ve also read about the lighthouse road trip we created along the Portuguese coast, but maybe you’re not a fan of coastal humidity. Well, what if I told you that there’s a third option for you to explore Portugal from west to east and from north to south? 

Portugal became an independent country in 1143 when the Treaty of Zamora was signed by Afonso VII, the King of Castille, and Afonso Henriques, who became the first king of Portugal. But it wasn’t all roses and rainbows after that, and the Castilian threat was ever-present in the kingdom of Portugal throughout the centuries. This is why it became crucial to equip the border region with castles and fortresses to protect from and deter possible invasions.

The truth is that this defensive infrastructure has kept Portugal safe, having kept its borders practically intact since 1297, when King Dinis signed the Treaty of Alcanizes with Castille. The only exception to this is Olivença (“Olivenza” in Spanish), which was annexed in the early 19th century and became a Spanish city through the Treaty of Badajoz. But, since this treaty was considered void by the Congress of Vienna, Olivença is legally Portugal’s territory but has never been returned by Spain, making it a contentious issue to this day.

But luckily, nowadays, both Portugal and Spain are members of the European Union and NATO, major trading partners, and the fear of war or invasions is long gone. But the castles are still there, waiting for travelers to conquer them. Visiting the castles in the raia (Portuguese colloquialism for “border”), especially when you do it in succession, will help you understand a lot about military strategy, vantage points, how their locations are meticulous, and how their presence helped mold the cities, towns, and villages around them.

So check your tires, fill up your gas tank, pack a few snacks, and let’s hit the road. Our road trip will take us from the Atlantic Ocean, across the Portuguese border with the Spanish community of Galicia through the Peneda-Gerês National Park, to the northeastern corner of this rectangle of ours, before heading south in an almost-straight line all the way down to the sandy beaches of the Algarve. Excited yet? Let’s get started, then!

Vila Nova de Cerveira Castle

Vila Nova de Cerveira Portugal
Vila Nova de Cerveira, Photo by Sergei Gussev (Flickr)

Our journey starts at the castle of Vila Nova de Cerveira, overlooking both the ocean and the border. It is a Gothic castle, small in size and oval in plan. In the 17th century, it was reinforced by a baroque Vauban-style fortress, with only one bastion remaining, but whose organization left its mark on the town’s urban planning. The curtain walls show different construction techniques, which could be due to various periods or later modifications using the stonework.

Vila Nova de Cerveira manifests its greatness in the happy marriage between ancient and modern, history and nature, tradition and contemporary art. Dare to open the little box of surprises in these “Lands of Cervaria”, from the manor houses to the typical houses, from the riverside walks to the viewpoints in the hills, from the eco trail to the nautical activities. And if you add gastronomy to all this, you won’t be short of excuses to explore Vila Nova de Cerveira.

Valença do Minho Fortifications

Valença do Minho Fortress
Valença do Minho Fortifications, Photo by Contando Estrelas (Flickr)

To visit Valença do Minho is to walk through the history of a living fortress, one of the most emblematic in the north of Portugal, having been the scene of decisive episodes in the country’s independence from the Castilians. Imposing on top of the hill, like an eternal stone guardian, the 17th-century fortress leaves no one indifferent: overlooking the River Minho and facing the Spanish city of Tui as if in eternal defiance. Today they are one, the Valença-Tui Eurocity.

For those with a love of history and Portugal’s origins, visiting Valença is practically imperative, due to the symbolism and rich heritage of the successive monuments you’ll come across as you wander through the streets of the medieval town within the walls of the fortress. Secular emblazoned houses, Minho manor houses, and small palaces attest to the presence of illustrious families. Adorned churches, chapels, and hermitages testify to the generous devotion of its people.

Melgaço Castle

Melgaço Castle
Melgaço Castle, Photo by José Antonio Gil Martínez (Flickr)

At the top of a hill overlooking the town, we find this ancient fortification, a testimony to the first moments of Portuguese nationality. Located on a former watchtower, it offers superb views over the surrounding mountains and the historic town center, with its narrow streets and stone houses. Strolling along the ramparts, visitors feel like they’ve been pushed into the background, such is the grandeur of the structure and the views it offers. Built to reinforce the authority of the newly created kingdom of Portugal, this castle played an important role in defending the Alto Minho border.

The town of Melgaço is probably the most unknown town in Portugal. Incidentally, it is also the northernmost town in the country. It has a valuable historical heritage with traces dating back to prehistoric times and the beauty of the natural landscape is sublime, were it not for the fact that Melgaço is part of the Peneda-Gerês National Park. The rivers (Minho, Laboreiro, Varziela), the fishing grounds, adventure sports, the mountains, and the historic villages are just some of the points of interest in Melgaço that make this land a discovery in itself.

Montalegre Castle

Montalegre Portugal
Montalegre, Photo by Sérgio Oliveira (Flickr)

Built during the reign of King Afonso III, its construction also spanned the reigns of King Dinis and King Afonso IV, being completed in 1331. It consists of four imposing square towers, interconnected by walls that surround the square of arms, where the medieval cistern is also located. At the time of King Manuel I, restoration work was carried out and completed in 1580. During the Restoration Wars, a surrounding wall with a moat was built, which has since been partly absorbed into the town’s urban fabric.

Located in Trás-os-Montes, in the valley of the river Cávado, between the mountains of Gerês, Barroso, and Larouco, Montalegre is surrounded by quiet and welcoming villages where agriculture and livestock farming dictate the pace of time. The capital of the Barroso region, a title it proudly bears, the town in Trás-os-Montes is famous for its delicious gastronomy, where smoked meats reign supreme, for its popular Friday the 13th celebrations, culminating in the effusive Halloween Nights, and for its traditional medicine.

Chaves Castle

Chaves Portugal
Chaves, Photo by Rafael Antonio (Flickr)

With medieval features and a rectangular floor plan, it was built on the foundations of the Roman walls that surrounded the town. It underwent major improvements, both by the Suevi, Alans, and Visigoths and even by the Muslims who conquered the fortification in 713. The construction of the keep and other improvements to the defensive structure date back to the reign of King Afonso III, and were completed during the reigns of King Dinis and King Afonso IV.

If you read our article about the Nacional 2, you’ll be familiar with Chaves, since it marks the start of that road trip. Deep in the north of Portugal, just a few kilometers from Spain, in a fertile and graceful valley around the river Tâmega, this pearl of Trás-os-Montes is certainly in contention for the title of the most beautiful city in Portugal. I know it’s open to debate, but what is indisputable is that in a city as old as Chaves, each stone could tell a handful of stories as captivating as the history of Portugal.

Bragança Castle

Bragança Castle Portugal
Bragança Castle, Photo by José Antonio Gil Martínez (Flickr)

One of the most important and well-preserved Portuguese castles, it is medieval in style, Gothic in style, and has a striking image in the area and the city, thanks to its size and the imposing keep. From the top of its walls and tower, you can see a vast expanse of land and the Montesinho mountain range. The keep, built of schist masonry with wedges, spans, and structural elements in dressed granite, has several floors in barrel vaults reinforced by full arches. The top of the tower is majestic, with cylindrical sentries at the apexes, battlements, and crossed arrowheads.

This municipality in the north of Portugal was crucial in the defense of the Portuguese border and carries a historical legacy of great importance in the constitution of nationality. Celts, Romans, Arabs, and other peoples occupied the territory and even neighboring Castile coveted this piece of cold land in Trás-os-Montes. Since 1187, its strategic importance has been recognized with a special charter by several Portuguese monarchs, and in 1464 it was elevated to city status. Today, it’s the capital of one of Portugal’s eighteen districts.

Miranda do Douro Castle

Miranda do Douro Portugal
Miranda do Douro, Photo by Pedro Nuno Caetano (Flickr)

The castle dates back to before Portugal was a nation and was the subject of interventions in the early reigns of the first dynasty, including a walled enclosure designed to protect the population. The main structure dates back to the reign of King Dinis. It is Gothic in style and has an irregular rectangular plan, with a keep at one angle and three other lower towers, two with a square base and one with a hexagonal base. In 1762, during the Seven Years’ War, there was a violent explosion in one of the armories, which disfigured fundamental elements of the castle’s Gothic structure and a large part of the wall.

Did you know that Miranda do Douro sees the sunrise before the rest of Portugal? That’s because it’s the easternmost town in the country. Do you know what else makes it unique? It has its own language, the mirandês, which is an endangered language exclusive to this town, giving it a whole other layer of uniqueness. And let’s not forget the Mirandese gastronomy, which includes as ex-libris dishes the Miranda steak, Miranda veal, Miranda lamb, and pork with all its derivatives, with tabafeia being the most famous of them all.

Freixo de Espada à Cinta Castle

Freixo de Espada à Cinta Portugal
Freixo de Espada à Cinta, Photo by Pedro Nuno Caetano (Flickr)

One of the oldest fortresses in Trás-os-Montes, it marked the border to the west of the River Douro and was built in the 12th century, with a primitive redoubt with a fence defending the town. In 1836, the enclosure was converted into a municipal cemetery, and some walls were demolished. Today, the unique heptagonal tower (known as the Rooster Tower or Clock Tower) and some sections of the walls remain.

The name of the town itself is enough to arouse curiosity. It literally means “sword on the belt of an ash”. Visiting Freixo de Espada à Cinta is a trip down memory lane to ancient Portugal. The one that was made from the north, far north. Well-loved by those looking for the hidden gems of this country of wonders, those that still preserve the authenticity that takes us back in time, to the roots of the Portuguese heritage and soul.

Castelo Rodrigo Castle

Castelo Rodrigo Portugal
Castelo Rodrigo, Photo by Pedro Nuno Caetano (Flickr)

Built on schist cliffs to the west of the Marofa and Vieira mountains, dominating the extensive plateau territory, it was conquered by King Dinis in 1296. The castle has an irregular floor plan and is made up of a castelejo and barbican marked by semicircular cubicles and rectangular towers, with full, broken-arch doors. The Alcazaba was repurposed as the mayor’s residential palace, remodeled in the Mannerist period and later razed to the ground by the population, but some structures with rectangular courtyards remain.

This land of enchantment has so much more to offer: it is one of Portugal’s most exciting Historical Villages, the gateway to the Douro International Natural Park, it displays stunning landscapes of the Lands of Ribacoa of incalculable value, it has revealed cave paintings that prove its prehistoric origins, it has inherited a vast Roman, Arab and Jewish legacy and it is, historically, one of the most important towns in the region in the defense of the Portuguese territory disputed with Spain.

Almeida Fortifications

Almeida Fortress Portugal
Almeida Fortifications, Photo by Frayle (Flickr)

The original castle, built on a plateau in a strategic position, was built by the Muslims, conquered by the forces of the Kingdom of León, reconquered again by the Muslims, and finally by Portuguese forces. In the post-restoration period, Almeida modernized the obsolete medieval structures and built a fortress around the urban perimeter of Almeida, its Praça Forte, a perfect example of Baroque military architecture, with a hexagonal star layout, six bastions, and six ravelins.

Almeida is one of the best examples of a bastioned fortification in Portugal. When seen from the air, Almeida’s Praça Forte looks like a 12-pointed star, as many as the bastions and ravelins that surround it. Needless to say, Almeida has been the scene of epic battles, one of the most famous being the Siege of Almeida in 1810, during the Third French Invasion. If you visit the city in August, don’t miss the historical re-enactment of this event. Just make sure you take some earplugs, as the noise of the cannons is deafening.

Sortelha Castle

Sortelha Portugal
Sortelha, Photo by Javier Habladorcito (Flickr)

This one’s not exactly on the border, but since it’s one incredible castle, it’s well worth the 20-minute detour to reach it. The Sortelha Castle is the latest of Beira Interior’s Romanesque castles. It stands on an impressive granite massif, slightly offset from the town, and still retains much of its original structure. In the 20th century, restoration work on the complex was mainly responsible for the monument’s current image. Between 1940 and 1952, many parts were rebuilt, in a process that aimed to partially revive the castle.

Sortelha is not only one of the best-preserved historic villages, but it also has a simply stunning landscape. From the top of its towers and walls, you get simply overwhelming views over the rugged Beira landscapes. As you pass through the walls, which have protected it for centuries, you’ll feel like you’re in a real open-air museum. Walk slowly and savor the nostalgic medieval atmosphere of the village.

Marvão Castle

Marvão Castle Portugal
Marvão, Photo by Stephen Colebourne (Flickr)

Standing at the top of the Serra do Sapoio, in the heart of the Serra de São Mamede Natural Park and one of the main access points to Portugal, holding a dominant and strategic position on the border and the surrounding area, the Marvão Castle, built on a rocky platform, encloses the medieval town within its walls. These, reinforced by towers, are divided into three concentric defensive lines: the inner line with two towers and a cubicle, dominated by the keep, the middle line reinforced by massive towers and the outer line consisting of the barbican, from where the fence that surrounds the hill and integrates the town starts.

There are more than 800 meters of elevation. More than 800 years of history. More than 800 enchanting features. The majestic walled town of Marvão is so fascinating that it is never forgotten by visitors. Anyone who climbs up to Marvão Castle will understand why José Saramago said that, from there, “you can see the whole earth”, almost immediately. There, from the top of the castle, we are taken aback by the extent of the wonderful landscape of the Serra de São Mamede. As far as the eye can see. Breathtaking.

Elvas Fortifications

Elvas Portugal
Elvas, Photo by Stephen Colebourne (Flickr)

It was originally an Islamic fortification and was an important strategic point for defending the national border. The keep was rebuilt in 1488, but its current appearance dates from the 16th century. With no military function from the second half of the 19th century onwards, the castle of Elvas was left abandoned and entered the 20th century in ruins.

That’s why several Elvenses who loved history and their heritage wanted to promote its restoration and visibility and started a process that would make the castle of Elvas the first Portuguese National Monument in 1906. In 2012, the “Garrison Border Town of Elvas and its Fortifications” were classified by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site.

At the gates of Spain, just eight kilometers from nearby Badajoz, Elvas has become the most important stronghold on the Portuguese border and is today one of the most emblematic cities in the Alentejo. Its historic center, Islamic, medieval, and 17th-century walls, the forts of Santa Luzia and Graça, three fortresses, and the Amoreira Aqueduct make up the largest bastioned fortification in the world.

In terms of religious heritage alone, the municipality of Elvas has nearly forty churches and convents, not including hermitages; architectural heritage, just wandering the streets; and the civil heritage totals more than thirty examples, including fountains, arches, and pillories.

Monsaraz Fortifications

Monsaraz Castle Portugal
Monsaraz Castle, Photo by Javier Habladorcito (Flickr)

Considered one of the oldest towns in Portugal, Monsaraz shows signs of settlement since prehistoric times and was initially a fortified settlement. During the Restoration Wars, due to Monsaraz’s proximity to the Guadiana and the Spanish border, the Crown had a new fortress built around the town. The project included the construction of a new wall comprising the Fort of São Bento, the “defensive key to the Arrabalde“, with a bastioned reveille and artificial curtain wall, the Fort itself, in the shape of a star, the Baluarte de São João and the Baluarte do Castelo.

Monsaraz is a surprise every time it is kissed by the intense Alentejo sun on the shores of the great Alqueva Lake. The earthy tones and the rough look of the schist stone are countered by the whiteness and neatness of the whitewashed houses. At the top of this steep slope, within walls as old as age, there is a very distinctive character where legends, memories, traditions, and ancient knowledge are preserved. Monsaraz can be reached in minutes, from one end to the other. However, it’s impossible to escape the urge to simply stay there, with all the wanderlust in the world.

Noudar Castle

Noudar Castle Barrancos Portugal
Noudar Castle, Photo by Rosino (Flickr)

Strategically well-located, the Noudar Castle was completed in 1308 and subsequently underwent several repairs. Its geographical situation does not require the existence of a moat, given the surrounding land with a very steep slope, flowing towards the Ardila and Múrtega rivers. Like so many others, it is assumed that the initial fortress consisted of a proto-historic settlement, with subsequent Roman occupation. From the 18th century onwards, the history of this castle is one of progressive abandonment, completed in 1893. It was only in 1997, more than a century later, that the municipality managed to acquire the complex.

Noudar, in the Barrancos municipality, preserves its beautiful castle surrounded by the river Ardila, which ripples through the surrounding landscape. The park of the same name is a beautiful place, almost untouched by man, and its fauna and natural landscape are its greatest attributes. In Barrancos, the elderly speak the Barranquenho dialect, a mixture of Spanish and Portuguese, which is a clear sign of the connection to Spain, as are the bullfights with the killing of the bull, being the only place in Portugal where this is legal.

Serpa Castle and Walls

Serpa Walls Portugal
Serpa Walls, Photo by Marcos Melo (Flickr)

The first impression one has of Serpa is the sight of the castle’s grandiose walls where the Moura and Beja Gates, the only survivors of the 5 primitive gates, are placed. Inside the wall on the east side, there is the vast manor house of the Counts of Ficalho, also highlighting the Italian arcade aqueduct that extends to the end of the south wall. The highest part of the hill corresponds to the primitive, medieval, Moorish, and Christian urban nucleus. Here you will find the church of Santa Maria, what remains of the castle’s old keep, the Clock Tower, and Serpa’s Municipal Museum of Archeology.

This town in the Alentejo region, enclosed by the walls of its medieval castle, which was central to the defense of Portugal, serves up a feast of surprising experiences and feelings. After the first “taste”, Serpa leaves you wanting more. Heritage, landscape, people, and local culture are one and the same. An open museum that invites you to (re)discover its charms and values. Oh, and did I mention its famous, creamy, delicious cheese?

Castro Marim Castle and São Sebastião Fort

Castro Marim Portugal
Castro Marim, Photo by Bert Kaufmann (Flickr)

The castle of Castro Marim has a quadrangular plan, with four cylindrical blocks and two access doors, one of which is topped with a coat of arms and an epigraphic inscription. The keep, with a quadrangular morphology and an imposing structure (three floors high), was built attached to the south wall, with the aim of protecting the main access to the castle. Under the shelter of the barbican, with a triangular plan, covered by a fence, stand the Church of São Tiago, the Church of Santa Maria, the Church of Misericórdia, and a museum nucleus, with archaeological testimonies of the occupation of the region.

Climbing up to the castle, you can see the sea on one side and the round shapes of the hills stretching to the horizon on the other. These are the mountains that challenge those who enjoy the great outdoors, are interested in identifying birds and plants, enjoy walking or cycling, and get in touch with nature. Along the way, you’ll come across small villages with low, white houses, surrounded by fields of crops, the refreshing spots of the vast lakes of the Beliche and Odeleite dams, and the profiles of old mills on the slopes of the hills.

LAST THOUGHTS

Now that you parked your car, let me just say that the seventeen castles highlighted are but a tiny fraction of what there is to see. These are just a sample, composed of some of my favorites and some of the most significant buildings along the border. As I’m sure you saw driving along the Portuguese border with Spain, it’s hard to go 10 minutes without seeing a castle in the distance, so make sure to stop by some of the in-betweens that I wasn’t able to include here.

So there you have it, this concludes our third road trip option for crossing Portugal from north to south: you can choose our lighthouse route, the Nacional 2, or this one, which is actually my favorite. There are no crowds here, the air is as pure as it gets, the people are warm and friendly, and the food is… well, I started drooling just thinking about it. Now, in Castro Marim, make sure you hit the beach and get a well-deserved rest.

I’ll see you on our next road trip!

1...343536...110Page 35 of 110

Portugal.com is an independently owned and operated tourism portal about Portugal. All information should be considered informational and for entertainment purposes. Some content may be promotional and/or have affiliate relationships where Portugal.com earns revenue promoting the content.

Want to advertise on Portugal.com? Would you like to write for us? Something else? Please feel free to Contact Us!

© Portugal.com