One of my favorite poems is Dylan Thomas’ “Do not go gentle into that good night” and there’s one particular line that always makes me think of lighthouses – “rage against the dying of the light.” There is something almost magical about lighthouses with their incessant lights beaming towards the seemingly infinite ocean ahead.

Well, it so happens that Portugal has almost 1800 kilometers of coastline, nearly 1000 of those on the mainland, so lighthouses are not too hard to find.

This got me thinking, after hearing about the mythical Nacional 2, how it would be really cool to drive from Viana do Castelo all the way up North to the legendary Cape St. Vincent, the southwesternmost point in mainland Europe, before ending the trip at Vila Real de Santo António, a stone throw away from Spain.

Did that sound intriguing? What if I told you, as you might have already figured out, that this whole road trip also takes you along Portugal’s best beaches? That ought to make you excited, right? Especially if you’re into surf and water sports since Portugal has some of the best conditions for those. So let’s dive in, we have a long journey ahead. A journey that will take us through ten of Portugal’s districts and leave us craving for more.

LIGHT… HOUSE?

First things first. What is, after all, a lighthouse? Is it just a spot along the coast with a light pointed toward the sea? Well, it is that, but not only that. A lighthouse is a clearly visible elevated structure on top of which a light is placed to aid navigation. It essentially consists of the building (the “house” in “lighthouse”), the light source, and the optical apparatus.

Lighthouses are placed on coasts, islands, shallows, etc., and sometimes they’re even mounted on special boats so that they are a visible mark at sea. The characteristics of a lighthouse are its color, character, period and phases, light intensity, and range. By day, the shape and color of the lighthouse building serve as recognition, and by night, the characteristics of the light.

So, no, contrary to popular belief, lighthouses aren’t just useful at night. Sure, it serves to guide navigators by light at night, but it also serves to guide them by the body of the building by day. Navigators can usually tell where they are by recognizing the distinct shape of the lighthouse ahead, which is why lighthouses tend not to have similar designs.

A BIT OF HISTORY

The first references to the use of bonfires kept at conspicuous points or in towers by fishing communities for the reference of navigators, and later by religious brotherhoods, date back to the beginning of the 16th century.

In Portugal, the first structure to be classified as a lighthouse was ordered to be erected in 1528 at the mouth of the River Douro by Bishop Miguel da Silva, at São Miguel o Anjo. Next to the site where, until 2008, the Cantareira lighthouse was in operation.

There are also references to a lighthouse erected by the Bishop of the Algarve, D. Fernando Coutinho, in the convent of São Vicente, sometime between 1515 and 1520, and that, in 1537, the friars of the Brotherhood of Nossa Senhora da Guia de Cascais built a tower to serve as a lighthouse.

However, it wasn’t until February 1, 1758, when the Marquis of Pombal issued a decree, that the lighthouse service became an official organization, entrusted to the Board of Trade, following which the construction of lighthouses was ordered, the first of which was Nossa Senhora da Luz in 1761.

Since then, responsibility for the operation and maintenance of the structures has passed through various entities until, in 1892, it was finally assigned to the Ministry of the Navy and Overseas Territories, which is part of the Ministry of Defense nowadays.

OUR JOURNEY BEGINS

Just a heads up before we turn on the ignition. Portugal has 56 lighthouses scattered along the coast, 30 of them on its mainland. Some are imponent buildings, others are simple structures. But, in this article, we’ll focus on the fourteen lighthouses in mainland Portugal that are open for visits.

Before you visit them, make sure to check their websites because there are different operation times depending on the season and they might be going through renovations.

Finally, this road trip has the particularity of allowing you to choose which roads to take. You can drive along the highway from Viana do Castelo to Lisbon and for most of the Algarve coastline. But, if you have the time and feel like exploring other locations during your trip, I highly recommend that you take the more scenic routes along the coast.

MONTEDOR LIGHTHOUSE

We start our journey at a centennial lighthouse. In fact, it was built in 1910, the same year Portugal became a republic. In civil architecture, the lighthouse has a U-shaped plan with the entrance facing north and the tower in the center. The building is made of stonework and wedges of split stonework, ending in a double frieze.

This lighthouse is located in Viana do Castelo, one of the most beautiful cities in the north of Portugal. Its participation in the Portuguese Discoveries and, later, in cod fishing shows its traditional connection to the sea, so it was always an obvious spot to build a lighthouse.

Viana do Castelo is also considered a “Mecca of Architecture” thanks to the many important names in contemporary Portuguese architecture who have designed the city’s facilities and spaces. From the hill of Santa Luzia, you can see the privileged geographical location of the city, next to the sea and the mouth of the River Lima. This breathtaking view and the Temple of the Sacred Heart of Jesus, a revivalist building by Ventura Terra from 1898, can be the starting point for visiting the city.

BOA NOVA LIGHTHOUSE

You might feel drawn to Porto, but let me make a case for Leça da Palmeira. And I’ll start with its lighthouse. The Boa Nova Lighthouse, or Leça Lighthouse, is a white conical tower 46 meters high and 57 meters above sea level, inaugurated in 1927. It has an annex building housing a museum with a collection related to lighthouses that is well worth a visit.

Leça da Palmeira is a working-class city, intrinsically linked with some of the most important industries in the country. Up until recently, it was home to the largest oil refinery in Portugal, it is right next to Matosinhos which is home to one of the most important ports in the country, and it holds a long fishing tradition.

As a result of being a city born around its rich sea and fertile land, traditions are divided between activities linked to the ocean and those linked to agriculture. In preserving and disseminating these traditions, we should highlight the work carried out by the Rancho Típico da Amorosa, which is recognized worldwide and has toured many countries.

Leça da Palmeira is well-known for the Boa Nova Tea House and the Marés Swimming Pool, both works by the illustrious architect from Matosinhos, Siza Vieira, and both national monuments. But if you’ve brought your surfing board, you’re in for a treat. With a long stretch of sand bathed by the sea with strong waves, the Leça da Palmeira beach offers excellent conditions for surfing, bodyboarding, and kitesurfing, especially at its northern end, where it borders the Aterro beach.

BARRA LIGHTHOUSE

Leaving the Porto district behind, you start to feel a bit itchy to visit a large city. Well, welcome to Aveiro, also known as “Portugal’s Venice”. And it’s very easy to understand why as soon as you start walking through the city’s downtown with its quaint canals where the traditional moliceiros glide through the calm waters.

The Barra Lighthouse is the largest lighthouse on the Portuguese coast and the second largest on the Iberian Peninsula. It was built in the 19th century, electrified in 1936, and automated in 1990. From the top of the lighthouse, you can enjoy an excellent view over the beaches of Ílhavo and the surrounding coastline.

But canals are not the only highlight when you visit Aveiro. The pastel-colored Art Nouveau buildings are iconic and there are few places more Instagrammable in Portugal. One of those just happens to be the contrasting colorful Costa Nova beach houses, with their iconic, stripped façades, they delight any visitor.

While you’re in town, make sure you visit the famous fish market, home to some of Aveiro’s best seafood restaurants. Nearby you’ll find numerous restaurants and a wide range of stores and bars. Choose one of the traditional cafés as you stroll around the city and taste the divine ovos moles, which are the district’s specialty dessert.

CAPE MONDEGO LIGHTHOUSE

Located in the Boa Viagem Forest Park, the original tower dates back to the 19th century and served as a lighthouse until the early 20th century. The building consists of a central tower and two longitudinal bodies and the initial design had a second-order Fresnel lenticular optic powered by olive oil.

The lighthouse is located just a few kilometers north of Figueira da Foz. And Figueira da Foz has the peculiarity of being virtually unknown to foreigners. But to the Portuguese it is known for three things: its 120-year-old casino, its kickass New Year’s firework displays, and its raging Carnival. It’s not exactly Vegas, but you’re bound to have a fun time while you’re there.

Considered the “Queen of the Silver Coast” due to its long beaches, tourism is indeed one of its main economic resources and is one of the main tourist centers in the country, surrounded by the Atlantic Ocean, the Mondego River, and the densely wooded Boa Viagem mountain range, which gives it its unique characteristics.

One of the charms of Figueira da Foz is the beach with its striped wooden bars and its expanse of soft white sand. Known as “Praia da Claridade“, this vast stretch of sand was already favored by the aristocratic class at the end of the 19th century. Its 10 km-long waterfront promenade, with a river and seafront, allows for long walks or bike rides along the cycle path that runs along the banks of the River Mondego and the Atlantic Ocean.

PENEDO DA SAUDADE LIGHTHOUSE

The Penedo da Saudade Lighthouse, consisting of a 32-meter-high tower, which gives it an altitude of 55 meters, went into operation on February 15, 1912. One of the most significant periods in the lighthouse’s history was between March 1916 and December 1919, when it was switched off due to World War I.

This lighthouse is located in São Pedro de Moel, one of the most emblematic beaches on the central Portuguese coast, located on the border between the Leiria National Forest and the Atlantic Ocean. The town and the beach offer a fusion of sea, pine forest, history, architecture, and poetry, enveloped in an atmosphere of tranquility.

These characteristics, together with its privileged geographical location, give São Pedro de Moel a stamp of natural beauty and make it one of the most beautiful and attractive places in mainland Portugal. So much so that, as far back as the 14^th Century, the king granted it as a gift to the noblemen.

Just a few kilometers further inland, you’ll find Marinha Grande. Fueled by the abundance of raw materials needed for its manufacture, firewood, and sand, this city has become the center of Portuguese glass and crystal manufacture, which bears the mark of the mastery of many generations of worker-artists in the production of unique pieces of renowned quality throughout the world.

CAPE CARVOEIRO LIGHTHOUSE

Located on the Peniche Peninsula a few meters from the Church of Nossa Senhora da Vitória, this quadrangular masonry tower lighthouse with a beautiful red balcony overlooks the Atlantic 57 meters from the shoreline. This lighthouse is one of the few Portuguese lighthouses ordered to be built by the Pombaline decree of 1758 and its history dates back to 1790, when it first shone its light over the sea of Peniche.

Peniche and the sea are inextricably linked. It is one of Portugal’s largest traditional fishing ports and a major Atlantic center for maritime tourist activities. In addition to fishing, which has naturally always been one of the population’s sources of income, Peniche is also known for the art of bobbin lace, which the women dedicated themselves to perfecting while the men were at sea.

Before heading to the beach, a visit to Peniche should include a walk through the historic center. In addition to the Sanctuary of Nossa Senhora dos Remédios, the Churches of São Pedro, and Misericórdia, the highlight is the Fort of Peniche, built in the 17th century to defend the coast.

It was important to Portugal’s history at various times, but it’s important to note that its most recent contribution was as a political prison during the Estado Novo, where some of the most important public figures in the resistance to the regime were held.

BERLENGA LIGHTHOUSE

Now, to visit this one, you’ll need to park your car and put your road trip on hold for a bit. Head to Peniche’s port and hop on a boat headed to the Berlengas islands, which is where you’ll find this next lighthouse. I promise you, the boat ride might be a bit bumpy, but it’s well worth it.

The Berlengas are an archipelago of granitic islands located 15 km off the west coast of Peniche. The archipelago is made up of 3 islets: Berlenga Grande, Estelas, and Farilhões-Forcados, but it is Berlenga Grande that stands out due to its larger size. Here you’ll find nature at its purest, landscapes that leave you speechless, and a sea watercolor that’s simply irresistible. It’s one of the best places for diving and birdwatching in Portugal.

The confluence of the Mediterranean and Atlantic climates has created a unique ecosystem in the world with characteristic fauna and flora, together with geomorphology distinct from that of mainland Europe, in the Berlengas Islands. The fauna and flora are unique, which makes the Berlengas a biological heritage of high conservation interest.

CAPE ROCA LIGHTHOUSE

Cabo da Roca is the most westerly point on the European continent, located at the end of the Serra de Sintra, and one of Portugal’s most emblematic sites. Dating back to 1722, it consists of a 22-meter-high tower and its light has a luminous range of around 26 nautical miles, approximately 48 kilometers.

Sintra is a town located to the west of Lisbon and in the center of the Serra de Sintra, in a region of pine-covered hills. The slightly milder climate than the capital attracted Portugal’s nobility and elite, who built exquisite palaces, extravagant residences, and decorative gardens there.

The variety of fascinating monuments and historic buildings make Sintra a highly regarded tourist destination. Most travelers follow the popular route of a day in Sintra, which includes visits to the National Palace, with its Gothic architecture, the ruins of the Moorish Castle, and the splendid Pena Palace.

However, to fully discover Sintra, you should also visit Quinta da Regaleira, the grand Monserrate Palace, and the austere Capuchos Convent.

CAPE ESPICHEL LIGHTHOUSE

At an altitude of 168 meters above sea level, the Cape Espichel Lighthouse has a light range of approximately 48 kilometers and produces a white light that emits three lightning bolts every 12 seconds. Don’t forget to visit the Sanctuary of Nossa Senhora of Cape Espichel, where dinosaur footprints can be seen on the cliffs.

The cape is located near the picturesque fishing village of Sesimbra, situated next to a sheltered bay, on top of the hill, around the Moorish castle which is now a must-visit point from where you can admire a truly breathtaking view of the village and the sea.

It was the wealth of fish in the Sesimbra Sea that led the population to come down from the top of the hill and move to its surroundings, turning the town into one of the region’s main fishing ports.

Special mention should also be made of the excellent regional cuisine, in which seafood and fresh fish are the main ingredients, and which can be enjoyed in the many restaurants here.

CAPE SARDÃO LIGHTHOUSE

This lighthouse has a special place in my heart because it was the first one I ever visited, back when I was a kid, during Summer vacation. I was fascinated by its 17-meter-high tower and I loved to climb all the way up to learn how its mechanisms work. I distinctly remember the sun setting on the horizon and seeing the light being turned on.

If you look at a map, you’ll quickly realize that there are no big cities around this lighthouse. In fact, there are barely any towns or villages, so make sure you come prepared. But the great thing is that the lighthouse is located in the Southwest Alentejo Natural Park, an incredibly beautiful and peaceful location.

The daytime breeze makes you forget about worries, rushing around, and bad moods. Here, everything is relative. All that matters is the communion of the senses. The overwhelming beauty and intoxicating peace will “force” you into introspection, an abandonment of the superfluous, and an easy search for happiness.

CAPE OF ST. VINCENT LIGHTHOUSE

If you like to have neatly brushed hair, you might want to skip this one, as it’s probably the windiest place I’ve ever been to. It’s actually a pretty cool location too because the lighthouse itself is located in the same complex as the fortress of Sagres and the Corvo Convent.

Sagres, which is located at the crossroads between the Mediterranean Sea and the Atlantic Ocean, has been a port for fishermen and traders from various nations since time immemorial, but it has also been plagued by corsairs. It is the embodiment of the Portuguese sense of discovery.

The policy of Portuguese expansion in the 15th and 16th centuries led to the foundation of Vila do Infante. Thus, Vila do Infante and Sagres are intertwined in the course of time. It is a place of memory where nature, the sacred and man have always combined in a symbiotic way, generating religious cults and historical, political, and tourist myths, making it well worth a visit.

ALFANZINA LIGHTHOUSE

The Alfanzina Lighthouse consists of a white, quadrangular masonry tower with an attached building, topped by a red cylindrical lantern. It’s located in a prime location because it’s right between the major beach destinations of Portimão and Armação de Pêra, and quite close to the cool town of Lagoa.

Portimão, with its picturesque turn-of-the-century historic center, the photogenic Arade Estuary, the trails along otherworldly cliffs, the superb views from the belvederes, the natural silence of the lively Ria de Alvor, the hot summer evenings wandering along the Passeio da Ribeirinha or in the Marina, ending with bar-hopping on Avenida Tomás Cabreira, is an absolute must.

In Lagoa, you can visit what has already been voted one of the most beautiful beaches in the world, the Marinha beach, or one of Portugal’s most famous caves, the Benagil caves. You can also hike over the cliffs, along the 7 Hanging Valleys, a route that has already been voted the best in Europe for walking.

SANTA MARIA LIGHTHOUSE

The Santa Maria Lighthouse, better known simply as “Farol“, is located at one end of Culatra Island in Faro, which the locals call Farol Island. There’s a boat that takes you specifically to Farol and another to Culatra from Olhão.

Let me tell you that this is one of my favorite spots to relax and sunbathe in Portugal. The island has a village full of white, blue, and yellow houses built by the local fishermen that give it a very charming look. There are restaurants on the island and the fish and seafood are divine, so make sure you don’t skip lunch!

After that, don’t forget to visit Faro, the third most important city in the country, but its monuments and downtown are still a bit underappreciated by the tourists who usually just rush to the beaches around the city. A night stroll through downtown Faro during Summer is a great way to recharge your batteries.

VILA REAL DE SANTO ANTÓNIO LIGHTHOUSE

Ah, and here we are, our last stop. With a 46-meter tower, a staircase with more than 220 steps, and a range of 48 kilometers, this lighthouse is a landmark on the east coast of the Algarve and still serves today as a reference point for ships navigating in Portuguese and Spanish waters.

The long-named town where the lighthouse is located was founded in 1774, by the express will of the Marquis of Pombal, near the mouth of the Guadiana. The city is an important historical testimony due to the fact that it was built from scratch in just two years, and the neoclassical layout of Lisbon’s Baixa Pombalina was followed, by a series of straight, perpendicular streets.

And, with the Spanish city of Ayamonte just a bridge away, Vila Real de Santo António, with its warm and calm waters, away from the crowds of central Algarve, feels like the perfect place to sit on the sand and enjoy the end of this trip that took us across the whole country both vertically and horizontally.

LAST THOUGHTS

So, what did you think of Portugal’s lighthouses? Did you notice how different they all were? Which one became your favorite? Don’t forget that there are dozens more and, even if they’re not visitable, you can still appreciate them from the outside.

I hope this trip was worth your time. It’s a great alternative to the Nacional 2 road trip and a great way to discover the whole country while still enjoying the two things that made Portugal famous: the beaches and the food. But now that you’re in southeast Portugal, why not follow the Border Castles Road Trip all the way to the North?

You heard about the Nacional 2, the legendary road that cut through Portugal right through the middle, but maybe you’re afraid it might be a bit too congested. You’ve also read about the lighthouse road trip we created along the Portuguese coast, but maybe you’re not a fan of coastal humidity. Well, what if I told you that there’s a third option for you to explore Portugal from west to east and from north to south? 

Portugal became an independent country in 1143 when the Treaty of Zamora was signed by Afonso VII, the King of Castille, and Afonso Henriques, who became the first king of Portugal. But it wasn’t all roses and rainbows after that, and the Castilian threat was ever-present in the kingdom of Portugal throughout the centuries. This is why it became crucial to equip the border region with castles and fortresses to protect from and deter possible invasions.

The truth is that this defensive infrastructure has kept Portugal safe, having kept its borders practically intact since 1297, when King Dinis signed the Treaty of Alcanizes with Castille. The only exception to this is Olivença (“Olivenza” in Spanish), which was annexed in the early 19^th century and became a Spanish city through the Treaty of Badajoz. But, since this treaty was considered void by the Congress of Vienna, Olivença is legally Portugal’s territory but has never been returned by Spain, making it a contentious issue to this day.

But luckily, nowadays, both Portugal and Spain are members of the European Union and NATO, major trading partners, and the fear of war or invasions is long gone. But the castles are still there, waiting for travelers to conquer them. Visiting the castles in the raia (Portuguese colloquialism for “border”), especially when you do it in succession, will help you understand a lot about military strategy, vantage points, how their locations are meticulous, and how their presence helped mold the cities, towns, and villages around them.

So check your tires, fill up your gas tank, pack a few snacks, and let’s hit the road. Our road trip will take us from the Atlantic Ocean, across the Portuguese border with the Spanish community of Galicia through the Peneda-Gerês National Park, to the northeastern corner of this rectangle of ours, before heading south in an almost-straight line all the way down to the sandy beaches of the Algarve. Excited yet? Let’s get started, then!

Vila Nova de Cerveira Castle

Our journey starts at the castle of Vila Nova de Cerveira, overlooking both the ocean and the border. It is a Gothic castle, small in size and oval in plan. In the 17^th century, it was reinforced by a baroque Vauban-style fortress, with only one bastion remaining, but whose organization left its mark on the town’s urban planning. The curtain walls show different construction techniques, which could be due to various periods or later modifications using the stonework.

Vila Nova de Cerveira manifests its greatness in the happy marriage between ancient and modern, history and nature, tradition and contemporary art. Dare to open the little box of surprises in these “Lands of Cervaria”, from the manor houses to the typical houses, from the riverside walks to the viewpoints in the hills, from the eco trail to the nautical activities. And if you add gastronomy to all this, you won’t be short of excuses to explore Vila Nova de Cerveira.

Valença do Minho Fortifications

To visit Valença do Minho is to walk through the history of a living fortress, one of the most emblematic in the north of Portugal, having been the scene of decisive episodes in the country’s independence from the Castilians. Imposing on top of the hill, like an eternal stone guardian, the 17th-century fortress leaves no one indifferent: overlooking the River Minho and facing the Spanish city of Tui as if in eternal defiance. Today they are one, the Valença-Tui Eurocity.

For those with a love of history and Portugal’s origins, visiting Valença is practically imperative, due to the symbolism and rich heritage of the successive monuments you’ll come across as you wander through the streets of the medieval town within the walls of the fortress. Secular emblazoned houses, Minho manor houses, and small palaces attest to the presence of illustrious families. Adorned churches, chapels, and hermitages testify to the generous devotion of its people.

Melgaço Castle

At the top of a hill overlooking the town, we find this ancient fortification, a testimony to the first moments of Portuguese nationality. Located on a former watchtower, it offers superb views over the surrounding mountains and the historic town center, with its narrow streets and stone houses. Strolling along the ramparts, visitors feel like they’ve been pushed into the background, such is the grandeur of the structure and the views it offers. Built to reinforce the authority of the newly created kingdom of Portugal, this castle played an important role in defending the Alto Minho border.

The town of Melgaço is probably the most unknown town in Portugal. Incidentally, it is also the northernmost town in the country. It has a valuable historical heritage with traces dating back to prehistoric times and the beauty of the natural landscape is sublime, were it not for the fact that Melgaço is part of the Peneda-Gerês National Park. The rivers (Minho, Laboreiro, Varziela), the fishing grounds, adventure sports, the mountains, and the historic villages are just some of the points of interest in Melgaço that make this land a discovery in itself.

Montalegre Castle

Built during the reign of King Afonso III, its construction also spanned the reigns of King Dinis and King Afonso IV, being completed in 1331. It consists of four imposing square towers, interconnected by walls that surround the square of arms, where the medieval cistern is also located. At the time of King Manuel I, restoration work was carried out and completed in 1580. During the Restoration Wars, a surrounding wall with a moat was built, which has since been partly absorbed into the town’s urban fabric.

Located in Trás-os-Montes, in the valley of the river Cávado, between the mountains of Gerês, Barroso, and Larouco, Montalegre is surrounded by quiet and welcoming villages where agriculture and livestock farming dictate the pace of time. The capital of the Barroso region, a title it proudly bears, the town in Trás-os-Montes is famous for its delicious gastronomy, where smoked meats reign supreme, for its popular Friday the 13th celebrations, culminating in the effusive Halloween Nights, and for its traditional medicine.

Chaves Castle

With medieval features and a rectangular floor plan, it was built on the foundations of the Roman walls that surrounded the town. It underwent major improvements, both by the Suevi, Alans, and Visigoths and even by the Muslims who conquered the fortification in 713. The construction of the keep and other improvements to the defensive structure date back to the reign of King Afonso III, and were completed during the reigns of King Dinis and King Afonso IV.

If you read our article about the Nacional 2, you’ll be familiar with Chaves, since it marks the start of that road trip. Deep in the north of Portugal, just a few kilometers from Spain, in a fertile and graceful valley around the river Tâmega, this pearl of Trás-os-Montes is certainly in contention for the title of the most beautiful city in Portugal. I know it’s open to debate, but what is indisputable is that in a city as old as Chaves, each stone could tell a handful of stories as captivating as the history of Portugal.

Bragança Castle

One of the most important and well-preserved Portuguese castles, it is medieval in style, Gothic in style, and has a striking image in the area and the city, thanks to its size and the imposing keep. From the top of its walls and tower, you can see a vast expanse of land and the Montesinho mountain range. The keep, built of schist masonry with wedges, spans, and structural elements in dressed granite, has several floors in barrel vaults reinforced by full arches. The top of the tower is majestic, with cylindrical sentries at the apexes, battlements, and crossed arrowheads.

This municipality in the north of Portugal was crucial in the defense of the Portuguese border and carries a historical legacy of great importance in the constitution of nationality. Celts, Romans, Arabs, and other peoples occupied the territory and even neighboring Castile coveted this piece of cold land in Trás-os-Montes. Since 1187, its strategic importance has been recognized with a special charter by several Portuguese monarchs, and in 1464 it was elevated to city status. Today, it’s the capital of one of Portugal’s eighteen districts.

Miranda do Douro Castle

The castle dates back to before Portugal was a nation and was the subject of interventions in the early reigns of the first dynasty, including a walled enclosure designed to protect the population. The main structure dates back to the reign of King Dinis. It is Gothic in style and has an irregular rectangular plan, with a keep at one angle and three other lower towers, two with a square base and one with a hexagonal base. In 1762, during the Seven Years’ War, there was a violent explosion in one of the armories, which disfigured fundamental elements of the castle’s Gothic structure and a large part of the wall.

Did you know that Miranda do Douro sees the sunrise before the rest of Portugal? That’s because it’s the easternmost town in the country. Do you know what else makes it unique? It has its own language, the mirandês, which is an endangered language exclusive to this town, giving it a whole other layer of uniqueness. And let’s not forget the Mirandese gastronomy, which includes as ex-libris dishes the Miranda steak, Miranda veal, Miranda lamb, and pork with all its derivatives, with tabafeia being the most famous of them all.

Freixo de Espada à Cinta Castle

One of the oldest fortresses in Trás-os-Montes, it marked the border to the west of the River Douro and was built in the 12^th century, with a primitive redoubt with a fence defending the town. In 1836, the enclosure was converted into a municipal cemetery, and some walls were demolished. Today, the unique heptagonal tower (known as the Rooster Tower or Clock Tower) and some sections of the walls remain.

The name of the town itself is enough to arouse curiosity. It literally means “sword on the belt of an ash”. Visiting Freixo de Espada à Cinta is a trip down memory lane to ancient Portugal. The one that was made from the north, far north. Well-loved by those looking for the hidden gems of this country of wonders, those that still preserve the authenticity that takes us back in time, to the roots of the Portuguese heritage and soul.

Castelo Rodrigo Castle

Built on schist cliffs to the west of the Marofa and Vieira mountains, dominating the extensive plateau territory, it was conquered by King Dinis in 1296. The castle has an irregular floor plan and is made up of a castelejo and barbican marked by semicircular cubicles and rectangular towers, with full, broken-arch doors. The Alcazaba was repurposed as the mayor’s residential palace, remodeled in the Mannerist period and later razed to the ground by the population, but some structures with rectangular courtyards remain.

This land of enchantment has so much more to offer: it is one of Portugal’s most exciting Historical Villages, the gateway to the Douro International Natural Park, it displays stunning landscapes of the Lands of Ribacoa of incalculable value, it has revealed cave paintings that prove its prehistoric origins, it has inherited a vast Roman, Arab and Jewish legacy and it is, historically, one of the most important towns in the region in the defense of the Portuguese territory disputed with Spain.

Almeida Fortifications

The original castle, built on a plateau in a strategic position, was built by the Muslims, conquered by the forces of the Kingdom of León, reconquered again by the Muslims, and finally by Portuguese forces. In the post-restoration period, Almeida modernized the obsolete medieval structures and built a fortress around the urban perimeter of Almeida, its Praça Forte, a perfect example of Baroque military architecture, with a hexagonal star layout, six bastions, and six ravelins.

Almeida is one of the best examples of a bastioned fortification in Portugal. When seen from the air, Almeida’s Praça Forte looks like a 12-pointed star, as many as the bastions and ravelins that surround it. Needless to say, Almeida has been the scene of epic battles, one of the most famous being the Siege of Almeida in 1810, during the Third French Invasion. If you visit the city in August, don’t miss the historical re-enactment of this event. Just make sure you take some earplugs, as the noise of the cannons is deafening.

Sortelha Castle

This one’s not exactly on the border, but since it’s one incredible castle, it’s well worth the 20-minute detour to reach it. The Sortelha Castle is the latest of Beira Interior’s Romanesque castles. It stands on an impressive granite massif, slightly offset from the town, and still retains much of its original structure. In the 20th century, restoration work on the complex was mainly responsible for the monument’s current image. Between 1940 and 1952, many parts were rebuilt, in a process that aimed to partially revive the castle.

Sortelha is not only one of the best-preserved historic villages, but it also has a simply stunning landscape. From the top of its towers and walls, you get simply overwhelming views over the rugged Beira landscapes. As you pass through the walls, which have protected it for centuries, you’ll feel like you’re in a real open-air museum. Walk slowly and savor the nostalgic medieval atmosphere of the village.

Marvão Castle

Standing at the top of the Serra do Sapoio, in the heart of the Serra de São Mamede Natural Park and one of the main access points to Portugal, holding a dominant and strategic position on the border and the surrounding area, the Marvão Castle, built on a rocky platform, encloses the medieval town within its walls. These, reinforced by towers, are divided into three concentric defensive lines: the inner line with two towers and a cubicle, dominated by the keep, the middle line reinforced by massive towers and the outer line consisting of the barbican, from where the fence that surrounds the hill and integrates the town starts.

There are more than 800 meters of elevation. More than 800 years of history. More than 800 enchanting features. The majestic walled town of Marvão is so fascinating that it is never forgotten by visitors. Anyone who climbs up to Marvão Castle will understand why José Saramago said that, from there, “you can see the whole earth”, almost immediately. There, from the top of the castle, we are taken aback by the extent of the wonderful landscape of the Serra de São Mamede. As far as the eye can see. Breathtaking.

Elvas Fortifications

It was originally an Islamic fortification and was an important strategic point for defending the national border. The keep was rebuilt in 1488, but its current appearance dates from the 16^th century. With no military function from the second half of the 19^th century onwards, the castle of Elvas was left abandoned and entered the 20^th century in ruins.

That’s why several Elvenses who loved history and their heritage wanted to promote its restoration and visibility and started a process that would make the castle of Elvas the first Portuguese National Monument in 1906. In 2012, the “Garrison Border Town of Elvas and its Fortifications” were classified by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site.

At the gates of Spain, just eight kilometers from nearby Badajoz, Elvas has become the most important stronghold on the Portuguese border and is today one of the most emblematic cities in the Alentejo. Its historic center, Islamic, medieval, and 17th-century walls, the forts of Santa Luzia and Graça, three fortresses, and the Amoreira Aqueduct make up the largest bastioned fortification in the world.

In terms of religious heritage alone, the municipality of Elvas has nearly forty churches and convents, not including hermitages; architectural heritage, just wandering the streets; and the civil heritage totals more than thirty examples, including fountains, arches, and pillories.

Monsaraz Fortifications

Considered one of the oldest towns in Portugal, Monsaraz shows signs of settlement since prehistoric times and was initially a fortified settlement. During the Restoration Wars, due to Monsaraz’s proximity to the Guadiana and the Spanish border, the Crown had a new fortress built around the town. The project included the construction of a new wall comprising the Fort of São Bento, the “defensive key to the Arrabalde“, with a bastioned reveille and artificial curtain wall, the Fort itself, in the shape of a star, the Baluarte de São João and the Baluarte do Castelo.

Monsaraz is a surprise every time it is kissed by the intense Alentejo sun on the shores of the great Alqueva Lake. The earthy tones and the rough look of the schist stone are countered by the whiteness and neatness of the whitewashed houses. At the top of this steep slope, within walls as old as age, there is a very distinctive character where legends, memories, traditions, and ancient knowledge are preserved. Monsaraz can be reached in minutes, from one end to the other. However, it’s impossible to escape the urge to simply stay there, with all the wanderlust in the world.

Noudar Castle

Strategically well-located, the Noudar Castle was completed in 1308 and subsequently underwent several repairs. Its geographical situation does not require the existence of a moat, given the surrounding land with a very steep slope, flowing towards the Ardila and Múrtega rivers. Like so many others, it is assumed that the initial fortress consisted of a proto-historic settlement, with subsequent Roman occupation. From the 18th century onwards, the history of this castle is one of progressive abandonment, completed in 1893. It was only in 1997, more than a century later, that the municipality managed to acquire the complex.

Noudar, in the Barrancos municipality, preserves its beautiful castle surrounded by the river Ardila, which ripples through the surrounding landscape. The park of the same name is a beautiful place, almost untouched by man, and its fauna and natural landscape are its greatest attributes. In Barrancos, the elderly speak the Barranquenho dialect, a mixture of Spanish and Portuguese, which is a clear sign of the connection to Spain, as are the bullfights with the killing of the bull, being the only place in Portugal where this is legal.

Serpa Castle and Walls

The first impression one has of Serpa is the sight of the castle’s grandiose walls where the Moura and Beja Gates, the only survivors of the 5 primitive gates, are placed. Inside the wall on the east side, there is the vast manor house of the Counts of Ficalho, also highlighting the Italian arcade aqueduct that extends to the end of the south wall. The highest part of the hill corresponds to the primitive, medieval, Moorish, and Christian urban nucleus. Here you will find the church of Santa Maria, what remains of the castle’s old keep, the Clock Tower, and Serpa’s Municipal Museum of Archeology.

This town in the Alentejo region, enclosed by the walls of its medieval castle, which was central to the defense of Portugal, serves up a feast of surprising experiences and feelings. After the first “taste”, Serpa leaves you wanting more. Heritage, landscape, people, and local culture are one and the same. An open museum that invites you to (re)discover its charms and values. Oh, and did I mention its famous, creamy, delicious cheese?

Castro Marim Castle and São Sebastião Fort

The castle of Castro Marim has a quadrangular plan, with four cylindrical blocks and two access doors, one of which is topped with a coat of arms and an epigraphic inscription. The keep, with a quadrangular morphology and an imposing structure (three floors high), was built attached to the south wall, with the aim of protecting the main access to the castle. Under the shelter of the barbican, with a triangular plan, covered by a fence, stand the Church of São Tiago, the Church of Santa Maria, the Church of Misericórdia, and a museum nucleus, with archaeological testimonies of the occupation of the region.

Climbing up to the castle, you can see the sea on one side and the round shapes of the hills stretching to the horizon on the other. These are the mountains that challenge those who enjoy the great outdoors, are interested in identifying birds and plants, enjoy walking or cycling, and get in touch with nature. Along the way, you’ll come across small villages with low, white houses, surrounded by fields of crops, the refreshing spots of the vast lakes of the Beliche and Odeleite dams, and the profiles of old mills on the slopes of the hills.

LAST THOUGHTS

Now that you parked your car, let me just say that the seventeen castles highlighted are but a tiny fraction of what there is to see. These are just a sample, composed of some of my favorites and some of the most significant buildings along the border. As I’m sure you saw driving along the Portuguese border with Spain, it’s hard to go 10 minutes without seeing a castle in the distance, so make sure to stop by some of the in-betweens that I wasn’t able to include here.

So there you have it, this concludes our third road trip option for crossing Portugal from north to south: you can choose our lighthouse route, the Nacional 2, or this one, which is actually my favorite. There are no crowds here, the air is as pure as it gets, the people are warm and friendly, and the food is… well, I started drooling just thinking about it. Now, in Castro Marim, make sure you hit the beach and get a well-deserved rest.

I’ll see you on our next road trip!