While the star of the show tends to be the Christmas Eve cod on December 24, the traditional Christmas Day lunch does not disappoint. On Christmas Day, many Portuguese families eat Roupa Velha, meaning Old Rags. The name doesn’t do it justice as this dish is incredible and full of flavor. A great way to transform your Christmas dinner leftovers into something special, this dish is a staple all over the country.
What is roupa velha?
Roupa velha is a peasant-like lunch that consists of mixing the leftover cod, potatoes, cabbage, and eggs. It is usually served before the meat dish. Once a tradition of poorer families from the region of Minho to fight food waste, it is now one celebrated all over the country due to its delicious flavor.
Roupa Velha Recipe
6 Portions
Ingredients
Leftover baked cod 500 gram
Potatos 600 grams
2 onions
2 garlic cloves
2 tablespoons coriander
1 tablespoon Vinagre
Olives to garnish
Salt and pepper
Instructions
Firstly, make sure the cod has been removed from all its skin and bones. Break the cod into smaller pieces.
Peel the potatoes and cut them up into small round slices. Boil them in water with salt and then remove them from the pot.
In the same pot, boil the eggs. While these are boiling, dice the onions and garlic, and then cook them in olive oil in a large pan on low heat.
Then add the cod and the potatoes to the pan and cook on medium heat for a few minutes.
When the ingredients are warm, add the vinegar, pepper, and salt.
Right before serving, add the olive oil, eggs, olives, and coriander.
Before I moved to Lisbon from the United States, I was used to driving in my car to one big box chain store such as Walmart and finding everything in one place. My local Walmart was a super-sized one that combined fresh produce with organic and frozen foods along with bread and bakery, a pharmacy, cookware, clothing, cosmetics, furniture, and even a large section for car items and camping.
If I needed a certain pot or cooking utensil, I could walk across the store to that particular section after picking up the ingredients on the grocery side of the store. I could also make copies, get photos processed, and even pick up a new book all at the same store. In Lisbon, and any other place without the amount of cheap land it requires to build and maintain such a superstore, this is not the case.
A Shopping Challenge
When you are used to finding everything in one or two places, Lisbon is going to present a challenge, especially if you are searching for specific exotic ingredients to make food from your home country. These are likely ingredients that Portugal isn’t used to putting into their Mediterranean-style diet with its focus on fresh fruits, meat, vegetables, and seafood.
After three years in Lisbon, I can tell you that almost everything that you are looking for is waiting for you somewhere in the city. You just have to know where to look. You may need to go to four or five different shops to get the things that you need, but you can find what you need without having to grow it yourself. Searching for these ingredients becomes a game in itself. Once you have found your ingredients of choice, you may want to buy in bulk or plan ahead to save time and make prepping easier.
Before I go any further, let me caveat all of this by saying that I love Portuguese food and its fresh ingredients. I have made several local recipes and it is definitely easier to shop for the local cuisine. I also love experimenting with food from around the world, which is what led me to start looking for different ingredients and seeing what I could find.
Without further ado, let’s look at the 9 best specialty shops to help you find those special ingredients that you’re looking for.
1. Continente Colombo
Of all the different places that I’ve visited in central Lisbon, Continente Colombo is the biggest and thus the most likely to have what you are looking for, including the closest thing I’ve found to one of the holy grails in Lisbon: spring onions, known as cebolinha fresca in Portugal. These are not exactly the same as spring onions, but they are close enough for many of the Asian dishes that you might want to cook.
Continente Colombo is located inside the biggest shopping mall on the Iberian peninsula, Colombo Shopping Centre in Carnide, which has 340 stores, 9 movie screens, and even a bowling alley.
Protip: whenever you’re looking for a particular thing and don’t want to shop online, Colombo is where most people end up in Lisbon. This also means that you’re going to find more variety of food at Continente Colombo than anywhere else.
As one example, at my local Pingo Doce supermarket, I cannot find the French style of green beans or brussels sprouts. The store just doesn’t carry them. The Lidl a bit further away also doesn’t carry French green beans, although they do offer brussels sprouts. Another difficult ingredient to find at the typical supermarket is ground cumin. This can be found at Continente Colombo along with some other items on our list. Knowing that it’s a rare ingredient will help you pick it up when you see it.
Onions at Continente Colombo, Photo by Becky GillespieBrussels Sprouts at Continente Colombo, Photo by Becky Gillespie
Address: Av. Lusiada, 1500-392, Ground Floor, Metro Station Colégio Militar/Luz (Blue Line)
Opening Hours: 8:00 AM – Midnight, Every Day
2. Celeiro
Celeiro is a Portuguese organic market and health food store that opened its first location in Lisbon in 1974. Today, it has 51 stores spread across Greater Lisbon, Porto, and other major cities in the country. It sells a very nice range of products including gluten-free, vegetarian, and vegan options.
Celeiro in Colombo, Photo by Becky Gillespie
Celeiro carries many products not available in any other physical store in Portugal. Today, you can find a host of vitamins and supplements as well as unusual spices, cereals, natural cosmetics, and even fresh produce. The prices are moderate to high here but for those with vegan and gluten-free diets, this is your best option.
Ingredients at Celeiro, Photo by Becky GillespieIngredients at Celeiro, Photo by Becky Gillespie
Celeiro opened its online store in 2014 and is the fastest-growing health food store chain in Portugal.
Address: Av. Lusiada, 1500-392, Ground Floor, Metro Station Colégio Militar/Luz (Blue Line)
Opening Hours: 9:00 AM – Midnight, Every Day
3. El Corte Inglés
The Spanish supermarket chain El Corte Inglés has only one location in Lisbon, and it is a foodie’s delight, both for its basement supermarket and also for its 7th-floor gourmet experience. Like Continente in Colombo, it is quite a large store with entire aisles dedicated to foreign ingredients and spices. There are also a number of bath and body products with more brands available than your local supermarket. I mention this because when I first arrived in Lisbon, I had no idea where to buy shampoo or sunscreen and ended up paying high prices at a local pharmacy until I realized that the place to buy these things is at a large supermarket such as El Corte Inglés.
El Corte Inglés in Lisbon, Photo by Becky Gillespie
The 7th-floor El Corte Inglés Gourmet Dining experience, besides having a number of high-quality eateries with outdoor dining options, also has a gourmet food section. This is a great place to buy a gift for your favorite fellow foodie. A large number of spices including Namibian sea salt, Sicilian pepper, and Madras curry. If you are a true foodie and want the widest range of exotic spices, this is a great place for you. To get a wider range of Asian spices, however, you will need to go to #6 on this list.
El Corte Inglés Supermarket in Lisbon, Photo by Becky GillespieEl Corte Inglés Gourmet Dining Experience, Photo by Becky GillespieEl Corte Inglés Gourmet Dining Experience, Photo by Becky Gillespie
Address: Av. António Augusto de Aguiar 31, 1069-413, Metro Station São Sebastião (Blue and Red lines). The Gourmet Experience is on the 7th floor.
Opening Hours: Monday-Thursday, 10:00 AM – 10:00 PM, Friday-Saturday, 9:00 AM – 11:30 PM, Sunday, 9:00 AM – 8:00 PM
4. Liberty Store
Liberty Store is a godsend for Americans who have been craving certain hard-to-find items from back home. However, it may make some people recoil in horror at the sugar and preservatives staring back at them through the store window. Sugary snacks and drinks such as Reeses, Twizzlers, and Dr. Pepper are available here. There is also one refrigerator full of Ben & Jerry’s ice cream!
The Entrance to the Liberty Store, Photo by Becky Gillespie
Where Liberty particularly excels compared to traditional Portuguese supermarkets is its baking section. You can find cake, brownies, and icing mixes that do not exist in the meager Portuguese baking departments. Certain spice blends, pickle relish, and salad dressings are also available.
Liberty Store Products, Photo by Becky GillespieAmerican Candy at Liberty Store, Photo by Becky Gillespie
Surprisingly, there is also a range of cleaning and cooking products from the US. If you’re looking for Ziploc or American-size coolers, Liberty can meet your needs. As you might expect, there is no fresh produce on offer.
Liberty Store Products, Photo by Becky Gillespie
Address: Largo de São Sebastião da Pedreira 9D, 1069-413, Metro Station São Sebastião (Blue and Red lines)
Opening Hours: Monday-Saturday, 10:00 AM – 8:00 PM
5. Portuel Kosher Food Store
There are also a few supermarkets in Lisbon catering to the Jewish community. I came to Portuel looking for one particular thing: kosher salt. I couldn’t find it anywhere else in the city, but I was able to find it here in both table and sea salt form.
Entrance to Portuel, Photo by Becky Gillespie
Portuel is not big, but the owner Dror is very friendly and eager to help. The supermarket is clean and its products are laid out in neat rows. You can also find products such as hummus, zaatar, chanukah candles, and wine.
Kosher salt from Portuel, Photo by Becky Gillespie
Address: R. Gomes Freire 146 A, 1150-180, Metro Station Picoas (Yellow Line)
Amanhecer Mercado Oriental in Martim Moniz will likely be a place you return to again and again. The bottom floor is spread out over two rooms with the first focusing on Asian dried and frozen foods and fresh produce. On the border between the two rooms, you can find bottled and canned Asian drinks.
The second room starts with cookware and a small corner for cleaning products followed by a wide range of spices, condiments, and noodles from several different countries. There are aisles devoted to India, Thailand, Korea, and Japan followed by Portugal wine and souvenirs closest to the check-out counter.
One of my favorite things about the Mercado Oriental is the Asian food court on the ground floor and first floor. For a reasonable price, you can order a plate of pad thai from Thailand, get a banh mi from Vietnam, a bowl of Malaysian noodles, etc. While the quality is admittedly not on the level of Asia itself, this is a one-of-a-kind opportunity in Lisbon to travel through the flavors of Asia in one place.
Note: The entire Martim Moniz area has the biggest concentration of international food in all of Lisbon, and our next two supermarkets are located in this same area.
Address: R. da Palma 41 A 1o andar, 1100-390, Metro Station Martim Moniz (Green Line)
Opening Hours: 10:00 AM – 8:30 PM, Every Day
7. Khan Mercado
Located in Martim Moniz, Khan Mercado caters to those looking for halal meat. They also have Asian products available and an array of spices. The shop comes highly recommended by the Muslim community and is known for having a 100% halal butcher. While the shop isn’t very big, it provides particular ingredients that are hard to find in other parts of the city.
Address: R. do Benformoso 62, 1100-394, Metro Station Martim Moniz (Green Line)
Opening Hours: Monday-Saturday, 9:00 AM – 7:30 PM
8. Shere Punjab Supermercado
Shere Punjab Supermercado is also in the Martim Moniz area. It specializes in Indian ingredients including authentic basmati rice that is different from the basmati rice that you can find in classic Portuguese supermarket chains such as Pingo Doce. This supermarket also has a small cafe that serves fresh samosas and tandoori chicken.
Compared to Portuguese supermarket chains, the prices can be a little high, but this is typical of import stores in Portugal. Fresh produce is also available here along with pickles, chilis, and other traditional Indian items. I would buy only the specialty items that you need here and buy general items that you can find anywhere at a cheaper shop.
Address: R. da Palma 284 A, 1100-394, Metro Station Martim Moniz (Green Line)
Opening Hours: Thursday-Monday, 8:00 AM – Midnight, Tuesday-Wednesday, 8:00 AM – 10:30 PM
9. Mercado Santos
Mercado Santos is a small but well-stocked supermarket serving the western side of the city. A friend sent me here to get dill, which is very hard to find in average-sized Portuguese supermarkets, but I found it here on the first try. This supermarket has some great fresh produce in the front and a nice array of vegetarian and vegan options along with specialty meats and cheeses. While it doesn’t look like anything special from the front, I encourage you to go inside and see if you can find some hidden treasure to bring home and make for dinner.
Address: R. Santos-O-Velho 56, 1200-643, Metro Station Martim Moniz (Green Line)
Opening Hours: Monday-Saturday, 7:30 AM – 9:00 PM, Sunday, 9:00 AM – 7:00 PM
Final Thoughts
Although I am not going into detail here, Portugal has a variety of supermarkets available with Pingo Doce, Lidl, Continente, and Auchan being the most common around central Lisbon. Aldi is gaining more of a foothold in the country along with the Spanish Mercadona chain, which is not yet in central Lisbon but has several locations now in Portugal.
Once you find the shops that carry your ingredients, start tracking where you can find them and plan your shopping accordingly. I now make sure to stock up at the specialty supermarkets so that I only need to go every couple of months.
Lisbon has a surprising amount of international ingredients available. You just need to know where to look.
Cod is a Portuguese national treasure, connected to its history, from the discoveries to the Estado Novo. Despite the hundreds of ways to make a cod dish, the most important that has always stayed the same is the “Bacalhau de Consoada”. Translating to Christmas Eve Cod, this simple cod dish is eaten on December 24 across Portuguese homes.
If you’re looking to replicate the Christmas Eve Cod dish, our homemade traditional recipe is here to guide you through the process. Let’s get started!
What’s Christmas Eve dinner like in Portugal?
On Christmas Eve, traditionally, the main dish is cod, known as “Bacalhau da Consoada” (Christmas Eve Cod). This is a simple recipe of cod, potatoes, cabbage, and boiled eggs, The stars of this recipe are quality olive oil and garlic, giving it a strong but simple flavor.
Although this recipe has simple ingredients, it takes time to prepare. Many purchase the salted cod weeks in advance and then leave it soaked to “unsalt” it, a process that can take up to 4 days for a whole cod. At times, as seen in the photo below, Christmas Eve dinner is also accompanied by octopus.
Christmas Eve dinner 2022. Traditional cod with potatoes, egg, cabbage, as well as chickpeas and octopus. Photo by Lara Silva
The next day, on Christmas Day, many Portuguese families eat Roupa Velha which translates to Old Rags. This dish was created to not waste any food, a peasant-like lunch that consist of mixing the leftover cod, potatoes, cabbage, and eggs. This can be eaten as a starter or dish, usually accompanied by a meat dish.
Why is cod a Christmas tradition in Portugal?
The love of cod on Christmas is traditionally a Catholic custom in Portugal. Christian Portuguese people were not allowed to eat meat on fasting days of the Catholic calendar, leading to the tradition of eating cod on Christmas Eve. Meat would then only be eaten on the 25. However, this has spread throughout the country, even in non-religious families. However, many have started to cook a turkey or even pig on Christmas Eve, ignoring the Portuguese tradition.
Photo by Daniel Lobo (Flickr)
Portuguese Christmas Eve Cod Recipe
6 – 8 Portions
Ingredients
1 kilo salted cod (soaked for 3 days)
5 cloves garlic
1 bay leaf
1 kilo Portuguese cabbage
1 kilo potatoes
5 onions
10 eggs
Olive oil
Instructions
Three days before, soak the cod in cold water with a bit of vinegar. Change water every day for those three days.
Boil water and when it is ready, boil the cod for 15 to 20 minutes. Remove the cod, but keep the water in the pot, adding salt. You will use it for the sides later.
Place the cod in a large oven-safe container. Top the cod with a mixture of 1 bay leaf, garlic, and lots of olive oil. Let it sit with the olive oil mixture for as long as possible, a few hours if possible.
While the cod is in the mixture, it’s time to prepare the sides and vegetables. In the same pot with the water where the cod was boiled, add the cabbage, the potatoes, and the peeled onions cut in half. Let boil for 10 minutes and then add the eggs.
Place the cod in the oven at 180°C (356°F) with the mixture to heat up the cod for 10 minutes or until it is warm.
After placing the cod in the oven, let the vegetables boil for another 15 minutes until the eggs are cooked, and not runny.
Serve the cod and the potatoes together, topped with the olive oil and garlic mixture. Add some of the mixture to the cabbage as well, but serve these separately.
The municipality of Rio de Janeiro will remove several statues of Portuguese figures because of a law proposal that prohibits the municipality from maintaining or installing statues, monuments, or signs that honor figures that were pro-slavery, reports CNN Portugal.
According to the official document, the law prohibits any type of tribute that makes a positive mention to individuals that committed acts against human rights, democratic values, or religious freedom.
The law was enacted this Wednesday and will come into effect effective immediately. According to the statements released by the local media, the law was proposed by one former council man, and a current council woman. As the City Hall of Rio de Janeiro missed the 15 day deadline to approve or veto the proposal, it became law.
As stated by its authors, any statues, monuments or signs that mention such figures positively, and are located in public spaces, shall be removed from such spaces and transported to museums. Furthermore, every single piece shall be accompanied by a contextualization of both, the piece and the personality.
There are several pieces that were explicitly mentioned, and will be removed. Most of them are, in fact, connected to figures that committed such acts. However, there is one that is not.
Among the artworks that will be removed is one that was offered to the municipality of Rio de Janeiro by Lisbon’s Mayor’s Office, in exchange for a statue of the Brazilian writer Machado de Assis.
This piece, which was built in honor of Father António Vieira, is located in the Catholic University of Rio de Janeiro, and will soon be moved to a museum.
However, according to the Portuguese President of the Republic Marcelo Rebelo de Sousa, António Vieira is generally known as one of the first defenders of the rights of indigenous people, especially in Brazil. Historians argue that during the 17th century he spoke up against the exploration and slavery of indigenous people. He was not in favor of colonization. Consequently, he was persecuted by the Portuguese settlers, the King’s Court, and the Inquisition.
Still, not all in Portugal share the President’s sentiment. Back in 2017 in Portugal, an anti-racist group movement called Descolonizando protested against a similar statue in Lisbon of Father António Vieira, saying that he “represents a “selective slaveholder” who contributed to the colonization of millions of Africans.
The remaining figures, however, seem to be, without surrounding controversy, connected to personalities that acted against what we consider to be human rights, democratic values, and religious freedom.
It is not perfect, but it is good news. The Euribor interest rates, to which most mortgage loans in Portugal are attached, decreased in November when compared to the previous month. Notwithstanding, those who will have their loans reviewed in December will still be subject to an increase.
After two years of continuous increase, the Euribor interest rates (to 6 and 12 months) decreased for the first time. Up until now, the only exception of the last 24 months was the decrease of the Euribor interest rate (to 12 months) in August this year, when compared to July. However, it increased again in the following months, until now.
Even though the value for the Euribor interest rates which was decided last Thursday is not publicly known yet, the data for November suggests that the rate increase process reached its highest point.
The only question is how long the values will remain at this level. Note that since the creation of the Euro, the Euribor interest rates have only been this high twice, in 2000 and in 2008.
The answer to this question is directly connected to what the Central European Bank decides to do. Its next meeting is scheduled for December 14th, however, no significant change in the monetary policy is expected.
That change can only happen when the Central European Bank decides. That decision, if and when it comes, will result from the assessment of the level of inflation and economic growth within the eurozone.
According to a poll by Reuters, where 85 economists were questioned about the trajectory of the Euribor interest rates and the European monetary policy, there will most likely be a change. A bit more than half of those questioned believe that the European Central Bank will cut the rates by the end of the next year.
I bet you’re having a hard time figuring out how to pronounce the word “schist”. Don’t worry, so am I. It’s much easier in Portuguese: “xisto” – “shees-too”. The Schist Villages are a network of, you guessed it, villages! What these 27 villages have in common is the fact that their houses are made of this hard-to-pronounce rock, in line with Portugal’s Center region’s typical architecture that has been kept for hundreds of years.
The Schist Villages, located in the center of the country, represent a hidden Portugal, away from the big cities. A Portugal of yore, of tradition and good food. A Portugal where life is slow and the people are welcoming. A Portugal covered in forests and hills, with old stone houses that urban development has forgotten… The Interior Centro region is one of the least explored regions by tourists coming to Portugal. And that’s a shame because it has so much to offer.
The 27 villages in this network are spread across the Serra da Lousã, Serra do Açor, Vale do Zêzere, and Tejo-Ocreza regions. The best way to visit these regions is to rent a car and quietly discover each road and village, stopping to enjoy the scenery, the typical gastronomy, the village café, and the contact with nature, with the possibility of hiking and mountain biking through the hills, or cooling off on the river beaches.
The Network
Spearheaded by ADXTUR, the Schist Villages Tourism Development Agency, in collaboration with 21 municipalities in the Centro Region and over 200 private operators, this regional sustainable development initiative is making significant strides as it aims to preserve and showcase the cultural and natural landscapes of the territory, breathe new life into its architectural heritage, invigorate the socio-economic fabric, and rejuvenate the arts and crafts scene.
At its core, the mission of the Schist Villages is to carve out a brighter future for this unique territory, utilizing its cultural identity as both a foundational element and a sieve. The approach is rooted in values of environmental and social sustainability, rallying resources and energies in the spirit of a living laboratory where innovative experiments take place.
Now, ideally, you’d take your time, rent a car, and enjoy all of these villages with time. But I know it can be difficult, so I’ll divide them up by region and highlight my three favorites out of each one. Ready? Let’s go!
Serra do Açor
The Serra do Açor is home to some of the northernmost villages in the network – Aldeia das Dez, Benfeita, Fajão, Sobral de São Miguel, and Vila Cova do Alva. These are some of the least explored villages in the network so, if peace and quiet is what you’re looking for, just head to any of these and enjoy their quaintness while you stroll through their streets.
1. Aldeia das Dez
When you arrive, Aldeia das Dez welcomes you with well-kept houses, a red telephone box that contrasts with the landscape, and a privileged location with open views over the surrounding countryside. Most of the buildings here are made of granite. And it’s precisely the buildings that are the most striking: Solar Pina Ferraz, also known as Casa da Obra, is a must-see. It may have been unfinished, but you can see the grandeur of what was envisioned here. Curiosities abound, including a house with an S on the façade, which is nothing more than a stone that was once used.
Photo by Vitor Oliveira (Flickr)
2. Fajão
Fajão is a peculiar village: it may be small, but there is a judge and a jail. Or there used to be. The jail has now been converted into accommodation and the Fajão Judge is a café. The brown of the schist reigns supreme in these two and even on the steps of the alleyways. In the village, you can enjoy the public swimming pool and visit the Monsenhor Nunes Pereira Museum. This museum houses the village’s first public telephone and even an engraving by Fernando Pessoa.
Photo by Vitor Oliveira (Flickr)
3. Benfeita
The highlight of the area is the Caminho do Xisto da Benfeita (Benfeita Schist Path), a circular route that starts in the center of the village and leads down into the valley of the Ribeira do Carcavão. A narrow trail, along the bank of the stream, takes us to some small but fantastic waterfalls, as well as the transformations of the landscape, the result of man’s secular action. Given the steep slope of this area, it is necessary to leave the banks of the stream and climb up old rural paths, with numerous stone stairs, so you should take extra care.
Serra da Lousã
Serra da Lousã is the area of schist villages best known to travelers. It is also the region with the largest number of villages – ten in all: Aigra Nova, Aigra Velha, Candal, Casal de São Simão, Casal Novo, Cerdeira, Chiqueiro, Comareira, Ferraria de São João, Gondramaz, Pena and Talasnal. Alto do Trevim, at an altitude of around 1200m, allows you to see from the Center region to the sea on clear days.
4. Gondramaz
Gondramaz is a small village with less than ten inhabitants, but they quickly show us that they may be few, but they are good. An inhabitant tells visitors that she doesn’t live alone, as she “lives with her neighbors” and there is a lot of care and a sense of humor in the streets. As soon as you park your car, you come across a poem by Miguel Torga. There are artistic notes on the façades.
Photo by Gondramaz (Flickr)
5. Talasnal
For some years now, Talasnal has been one of the best-known schist villages and has even been the setting for advertisements for major international chains. It’s not hard to see why, as you stroll through the streets of the village, climbing stairs, turning here and there. It’s an immensely beautiful, romantic, picturesque village. Because it’s so well known, it’s more of a tourist village, where most of the houses are lodgings, establishments or weekend homes. There are no longer any natural inhabitants here and few actually live here. But there are restaurants, cafés, cultural venues, and stores selling local products.
Talasnal. Photo by Miguel Silva (Unsplash)
6. Candal
Peaceful life in this village still attracts people to stay there and this direct contact with nature is certainly a strong point for those who choose it as a way of life. Stepping on the schist stones, walking down street after street, leaves us with the full conviction that, despite the difficulties, those who live there extract the best that nature has to offer in an inexplicable calm that is momentarily interrupted by other new residents.
Zêzere
The Zêzere villages group includes six villages – Álvaro, Barroca, Janeiro de Baixo, Janeiro de Cima, Mosteiro, and Pedrógão Pequeno – most of which are located, as the name suggests, on the banks of the River Zêzere. In this area, the river is lord and master of the landscape and of the most striking images that remain in our memory. Thinking about it, perhaps it was the view of the river that led us to select our two favorite villages.
7. Álvaro
Álvaro is not your typical schist village: the landscape, seen from the road before we arrive, shows us a village painted white and very well laid out. The schist is there, hidden underneath. It’s a resilient village, which has already recovered from strong fires, but which retains the charm of an unspoiled village. Perhaps it’s because of its faith: in Álvaro, we lost count of the churches, chapels, little chapels, and little souls that exist.
8. Janeiro de Cima
The whole village is a pleasant surprise. On the façades, the houses have an original combination of schist slabs and river pebbles, embedded here and there. At first glance, it’s a different village, due to the particularity that the pebbles add to the landscape. In the Casa das Tecedeiras, there is a giant loom to pay homage to the village tradition. There are two churches and several chapels to visit. On the river, you can see the traditional boats. And even a wheel that takes water from the river to irrigate the fields, the Roda de Janeiro, which is still in operation. Around the village, there is a walking trail to explore.
Photo by Rui Alves (Unsplash)
9. Pedrógão Pequeno
Located on a hillside above the River Zêzere, eighteen kilometers from the county seat, Pedrógão Pequeno is an ancient settlement, with some evidence of Roman civilization still remaining. The church, in Manueline style and made up of two large naves, dates from the 17th century. Also noteworthy are the Chapel of Nossa Senhora da Confiança, the Misericórdia church, the cross at the viewpoint, the sidewalk and dam of Cabril, and the Roman and Philippine bridges. The stone houses, whitewashed and with granite stonework, are extremely picturesque.
Tejo-Ocreza
The villages of the Tejo-Ocreza region form the smallest group, with only four schist villages (Água Formosa, Figueira, Martim Branco, and Sarzedas) but, at the same time, it is the largest group in territorial terms. Scattered between Vila de Rei, where Água Formosa is located, and Castelo Branco, where Martim Branco is located, they are all villages with little tourist exploitation and a sweet calm surrounded by the colors of central Portugal.
10. Figueira
The beauty of the streets, the irregular door frames, the lace curtains in the windows and the smell of figs in the air make me choose Figueira as one of the prettiest (and most genuine) villages I’ve visited. It’s easy to get lost in the streets, hidden in the shade of the vines. And that’s how you find the community oven, which is still in operation, and where you can see the wooden board where each family, in times gone by, used their “trabuleta” to mark their turn to bake bread. The marks of the community spirit that once lived in the village are numerous.
11. Martim Branco
The name of the village may be misleading, but in Martim Branco the predominant color is schist. And here it’s worth exploring not only the village, once you’ve parked your car next to the community oven, but also the banks of the river. After all, in Martim Branco you can take a refreshing dip in the Ribeira de Almaceda, which runs alongside the village. The weir with vertical slabs of schist transforms the water into pleasant pools.
12. Água Formosa
Água Formosa is hidden in a valley. Isolated by nature and emigration. However, the beauty and tranquility are attracting new residents who are giving life to the schist houses and small vegetable gardens. The streets are very narrow and movement is reserved for locals and a few visitors. The village has around two dozen schist houses. Most of them have been restored. They are on the mountainside, facing the sun and the Galega stream, which carries with it the only sound that marks the deeply isolated atmosphere.
Last Thoughts
Before signing off, there are a few things to keep in mind. First, most of the villages in each region are quite close to each other so take the opportunity to visit more than one, it’s worth it.
Second, not all the villages are exclusively made of schist, nor are they all brownish landscapes as our imagination might first think. But they all possess a singular beauty, without exception.
Third, most of the villages are located at high points or on their respective slopes. That’s why you need to be prepared to walk up and down and to wear suitable, non-slip footwear. And fourth, all in all, the Schist Villages offer good food. Make the most of your trip to discover some of Portugal’s best delicacies.
So, what are you waiting for? Put on your walking shoes and get on the road!
When was the last time you went to a restaurant and ordered old bread? What if I told you the Alentejo region has a magic recipe that turns old bread into the best thing ever? Don’t believe me? Try it yourself and be dazzled by Alentejo’s migas.
MI-WHAT?
Migas is a dish well-known for its simplicity, flavor, and connection to the local cuisine. Based on a philosophy of sustainability and the use of cheap, everyday ingredients, and originally made in a fire pot made of glazed red clay, migas stands out for the way it combines bread and good quality olive oil, resulting in a comforting meal full of authentic flavors.
ITS ORIGINS
For centuries, migas has been a hallmark of Alentejo’s cuisine, especially in winter. It’s a high-calorie dish that was born as a way of making use of the hard bread that fed the men who worked in the fields in the countryside. The main ingredient in the recipe is Alentejo bread. Of ancestral origin, made in the traditional way, unmistakable in taste, shape, and texture, it is the basis of many of the region’s typical recipes and an icon of the region’s identity.
HOW TO EAT IT
You can have it both as a side dish or as a main dish, depending on what you choose to include in your recipe. For example, migas with coffee and milk is a breakfast bomb that will have you full until nighttime, and migas with asparagus or cauliflower make for a great lunch on their own.
But typically, migas goes with pork. It’s a perfect combination because the migas absorb all the oils and fats, which in turn refines its flavor. And there’s no tastier pork than that from the black pigs that live in the Alentejo, so we will use that today. Which part? Up to you. Secretos, entrecosto, lombinhos, and plumas are some of the best meats you’ll ever taste, so the choice is all yours. For this recipe, we will go with the easier-to-find lombinhos, or tenderloins.
PORTIONS
4 to 6.
INGREDIENTS
500g of black pork tenderloin
1 chorizo sausage
1kg of homemade wheat bread (hard)
3 cloves of garlic
Olive oil
Salt
INSTRUCTIONS
Cut the meat into regular cubes. Crush the garlic and coat the meat with it, leaving it there for a few hours (or even overnight).
Cut the chorizo into small pieces.
Fry the meat and chorizo in a frying pan, adding a just splash of water (so they don’t burn). Don’t add olive oil yet, we need the meat fat’s taste. Remove the meat as it browns.
Now pass the fat from frying the meat through a sieve and keep it nearby.
Cut the bread into slices and pour it into the frying pan. Sprinkle with a little boiling water and immediately beat it with a wooden spoon, crushing it.
Once most of the water is absorbed by the bread, season it with some of the fat you kept all while whisking the migas, but don’t use it all up. They should be well seasoned but not soaked in fat.
Shake the pan over the heat and roll the migas into a thick omelet shape. This is not obligatory, but it’s how this dish is traditionally presented.
Once the migas are wrapped in a thin golden crust, place them on the platter, grease with some of the fat you have left and a splash of olive oil, and garnish with the meat.
Rejoice, as you just found a way to turn old bread into a tasty meal!
Now that you know how to cook it, you can try it with different ingredients (just don’t change the old bread, that one’s essential). Any meal consisting of meat goes well with migas.
And you know what else goes well with migas, especially if you’re eating it with pork? A glass of red wine. The Alentejo is well-known nationally for its wines, but still relatively unknown in the foreign market, so make sure you try them.
According to a proposal of the Portuguese Socialist Party to alter the 2024 State Budget, the most disadvantaged students frequenting mandatory schooling will be able to get free breakfast at school.
Currently, these students already benefit from free lunch and have the possibility of accessing a free afternoon snack provided by the municipality. If this proposal moves forward, two-thirds of the main three daily meals will be guaranteed for those who need them the most.
The proposed measure shall apply to every student who benefits from the highest level of school social action, independently of attending public, or private schools. This level of social action is only granted to students whose annual household income does not exceed 3102,4 euros or, in other words, 221,6 euros per month, for 14 months.
The Portuguese Ministry of Education recognizes that this measure can definitely and effectively help deal with difficulties that are imposed on children originating from disadvantaged households and/or social settings.
Given that the measure was proposed by the Portuguese Socialist Party, which was elected with an absolute majority, it will pass and come into effect.
Concerning the teachers, the Portuguese Government approved, in the Council of Ministers, a measure that supports middle school and high school teachers who are placed at least 70 km away from their homes.
The measure was also part of the 2024 State Budget, but the Council of Ministers chose to speed up its execution. Four thousand teachers will benefit from this support until 2025, and the total cost of executing it will be around 8 million euros.
The measure, which was already approved and will come into effect, is only for teachers working in Lisbon and Algarve, and the support is only in terms of housing. The reason why the measure is restricted to these regions is because of the fact that it is where teachers refuse to be placed because of the excessively high housing prices.
Apart from the distance, another eligibility criteria will be the effort rate. Only teachers with an effort rate above 35% will be able to benefit from the support. The basis of the rate calculation will be the burden of the permanent housing that is required by the placement.
Note that the maximum support each eligible teacher will be able to get, per month, is 200 euros. Moreover, the numbers provided above (4 thousand teachers and 8 million euros) are just an estimate. The number of teachers that were provided corresponds to those that were identified until now. However, it is not static. Neither is the cost. If more teachers are eligible, the bigger the costs.
This Thursday, Attorney General Lucília Gago broke the silence and spoke about Operation Influencer, warning that the Public Ministry only did its job and that the Prime Minister was only mentioned because of matters of transparency.
The supervisor of the criminal investigation that led to the resignation of the Portuguese Prime Minister was questioned about the Prime Minister’s decision. In her own words, she does not “feel responsible for anything”.
The Attorney General’s statement was the first public declaration made by the relevant authorities after the operation that was conducted on November 7 and led to the detention of five people for questioning. None of which was the Prime Minister.
In total, there are nine defendants connected to the case. Among them are the former Minister of Infrastructure (who resigned even more recently than the Prime Minister), the President of the Portuguese Environment Agency, the former speaker of the Portuguese Socialist Party, and the Start Campus company.
The Prime Minister felt the need to resign after finding out that his name had been mentioned by those being investigated by the Public Ministry because of big lithium and hydrogen deals, and the data center in Sines.
The Prime Minister was mentioned because it was relevant to mention him, for transparency reasons, according to the AG. If he had not been mentioned, it could have been affirmed that something very relevant was being omitted, and that could not have happened.
Up until the statement both the Attorney General’s office and the Public Ministry had been criticized publicly. The latter, for its role, and the first for its silence. However, such scrutiny is expected to end. The Public Ministry and the Attorney General’s office will continue to investigate without unnecessary drama.
Ho-Ho-Oh-I-can’t-believe-it’s-almost-Christmas-again! A time of joy, cozy fireplaces, and presents. But, if you’re thinking of heading to Portugal, it’s also a time when each city, town, or village displays some of their most ancient and unique traditions, definitely worth a visit if you’re around.
I’ll focus on things you won’t be able to find in other countries – so I won’t bother mentioning generic Christmas markets or the beautiful Christmas lights – and on places that don’t usually get the spotlight – so forget Lisbon or Oporto, I’m sure you’re well aware of those already.
So, without further ado, let’s unwrap this early Christmas gift.
Visit Garfe’s Nativity Scenes…
Every year, around Christmas, the parish of Garfe, in the municipality of Póvoa de Lanhoso, is transformed into the ‘Village of Nativity Scenes’, bringing magic and animation to the Christmas season.
The event, whose main driving force is Father Luís Peixoto Fernandes, is the result of the efforts and participation of the entire community, who decorate the village with dozens of nativity scenes.
Each crib presents particularities from the history of the Minho region and life in the countryside, lending a little of itself to the Christmas celebration, and a Mass is celebrated around each crib.
… or Piódão, the “Nativity Scene Village”…
Due to its perfect setting in the middle of nature, with its houses arranged in the shape of an amphitheater on the mountainside, Piódão is commonly known as the “Nativity Village”.
A typical Portuguese village, but one that takes us back to the Portugal of several years ago. There are no shopping centers here or in the surrounding area. While not a tradition in itself, visiting Piódão has become a sort of Christmas tradition of its own.
Most of the inhabitants work in agriculture and livestock farming, the elderly sit outside their homes reading a book, the surrounding air and nature are much purer, and life this simple has its charm.
Piodão. Photo by Daniel Páscoa (Unsplash)
… or Cabeça, the “Christmas Village”
In this Christmas party, the original concept is maintained: all the decorations in the village are made from resources and materials from forest clearing and the passion and ingenuity of the people of the village! After all, Christmas in the mountain village of Cabeça is as genuine and pure as the air you breathe here.
Everything is made with the wise hands of the 170 or so residents of this Mountain Village and with materials from nature that result from the surgical clearing of the forests of the Serra da Estrela Natural Park and neighboring land. Twigs, vines, pine trees, leaves, corn stalks, and other recycled materials are the raw materials for the Christmas decorations.
Monsaraz in the Alentejo and Óbidos in the Oeste region are two other locations that dress up accordingly during Christmas.
Warm up by Penamacor’s huge bonfire…
Every year, as Christmas approaches, in all the parishes of the municipality, young men of military service age join together to cut and transport the logs – madeiros in Portuguese – that will feed the bonfire to warm the Child Jesus.
The large pile of wood, deposited in the churchyard, is set alight at nightfall on the 23rd and remains alight for several days. After Christmas dinner, the population gathers around the bonfire in a ritual gesture of fraternal reunion.
The rest of the town, which was officially founded in the 13th century, is well worth a visit, as there are still monuments that attest to Penamacor’s strategic military importance, as well as other emblematic monuments.
Penamacor. Photo by Vitor Oliveira (Flickr)
… or by Barrancos’, further South
This tradition is slightly different from the one in Penamacor. In Barrancos, the madeiro is not the tradition itself, but the means of fulfilling a culinary tradition.
Instead, the bonfire is lit so that the townspeople can gather on Christmas Eve and roast their catalão – a Barrancos delicacy based on black pork, similar to chouriço but with a much stronger flavor.
Barrancos is famous in Portugal for being the only place where, every year during the local festivities, the slaughter of the bull still takes place after the bullfights. This is a tradition that the town conserves given its proximity to Spain, just a few miles away.
Have a Christmas banana in Braga…
No, seriously. In the city of Braga, there’s no Christmas without the Bananeiro. One of Braga’s favorite traditions began around 40 years ago when the shopkeepers of Rua do Souto decided to gather outside Casa das Bananas, in the late afternoon of December 24, to wish happy holidays to acquaintances and strangers, accompanied by a glass of muscatel wine and a banana.
The habit of eating a banana and drinking a banano went from being a social occasion for a small group of friends and customers to becoming a meeting point for all the people of Braga on the eve of Christmas Day. Nowadays, on the afternoons of December 24th, the street is invaded by thousands of people to fulfill the ritual.
Braga. Photo by Rafael Molica (Unsplash)
… or some chestnuts in Aldeia Viçosa
On December 26, the Magusto da Velha – literally the “old lady’s magusto” – is celebrated. The tradition goes back to the story of a very rich old lady who wanted to leave a perpetual income to the parish council.
The sum was to be used to offer the poor a good dose of chestnuts and wine. In return, the old woman – her first name is unknown – asked everyone to say an Our Father to her soul at Christmas.
On December 26, around 150 kilos of chestnuts rain down from the church tower, while the bells ring non-stop. As well as praying for the old woman’s soul, the people present fill their pockets with chestnuts, which are then roasted in the embers of the Madeiro de Natal (Christmas wood), which usually still warms up those in attendance. Red wine is also distributed to toast the old woman.
Ask whether the boy pees in the Azores…
A tradition that has been maintained in the Azores is “O Menino mija“, a symbol of the archipelago’s ethnographic heritage. Between December 24th and January 6th, groups of men and women go from house to house visiting family and friends and tasting traditional sweets and liqueurs, which are always displayed on the tables at this time.
Before entering, it’s obligatory to ask the question: “Does the boy pee?” This Azorean tradition led to the creation of a liqueur with the same name. The liqueur can be found in various stores or online, but hurry, because it sells out quickly during the festive season.
Santa Maria, Azores. Photo by Richard Tanguy (Flickr)
… or get spooked by Varge’s Caretos
This is part of the Boys’ Festival that celebrates the winter solstice and is an almost spiritual experience. Masked men, called caretos, spread absolute mayhem in the village of Varge, in Trás-os-Montes, rattling women, symbolizing their return to the fertile land.
From December 24 to 26, young people from the village return home to take part in this festival and keep the tradition alive. On December 24, a meeting of the unmarried boys is organized, where secret preparations are made for what will happen.
On December 25, after Christmas mass, the boys appear dressed as caretos, jumping, shouting, and laughing to the sound of their rattles and a bagpiper accompanied by a drum and box. Another tradition is the cantar das loas, where people in the village are criticized or ridiculed for events and conduct throughout the year.
If you fail to book accommodation in Varge, head over to Ousilhão for a similar tradition.
Stay over for the Janeiras
The Janeiras got their name from the month during which it takes place – Janeiro or January. The Christmas season in Portugal is not over until the 6th of January, or Dia de Reis, the day in which the Wise Kings arrived in Bethlehem with gifts for Jesus.
And, even though rarer these days, in some towns and villages in Portugal, the tradition of having carolers walking the streets at night between the 1st and the 6th still takes place. Once the carol is over in a house, the owners are expected to bring in the janeiras, such as chestnuts, walnuts, apples, chorizo, black pudding, etc.
The songs used are usually well-known, although the lyrics are different in each town. They are simple songs that praise Baby Jesus, Our Lady, Saint Joseph, and the residents who contributed. Typically, there were also a few insulting quatrains reserved for the people who didn’t say “janeiras“, so don’t forget to say it at the end.
Last Thoughts
As you can see, Portugal is home to a lot of unique Christmas traditions, especially in the less crowded interior where mass tourism hasn’t homogenized the culture of its people. Food is a big part of these traditions and, indeed, Christmas and Portugal together equate to feasting.
On Christmas Eve, the typical recipes have cod as their main ingredient. On Christmas Day, turkey is king of the table. The most typical drinks at this time of year, apart from wine, are liqueurs such as port and muscatel. And don’t forget the Bolo Rei, a typical Christmas pastry with candied fruit on top.
So make sure to pack a warm coat and your holiday spirit and come with plenty of appetite before heading over to Portugal this December!
Subscribe to our newsletter below to get the latest news, reviews, info and more!
We use cookies to ensure that we give you the best experience on our website. If you continue to use this site we will assume that you are happy with it.AcceptPrivacy policy
