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Central Portugal’s Folk Tales

We need to know how to interpret and distinguish legends from reality, as well as why these legends exist in the culture of each people and region. Portugal is a country extremely rich in stories, myths, and ancient legends, which inspire customs and superstitions. There are hundreds of Portuguese legends, tales, sayings, and popular beliefs that make our culture so rich and interesting.

Told in the evenings in the cold winters by our ancestors, from werewolves to fairies, witches to mermaids, ghosts and feathered souls to the miracles of saints, there isn’t a creature that our folklore doesn’t include, with the exception, perhaps, of vampires, because this isn’t a subject that is part of our legendary imagination.

But not all Portuguese legends are about creatures and monsters. Many of them reveal lands and people of courage, stories of revenge, justice, impossible loves, and perfect loves, others concern true events but with touches of imagination, probably to increase the dramatic or heroic charge of what really happened.

In fact, legends are such an important part of Portugal’s core that some even precede the country’s history, such as the legend of the Battle of Ourique. The legend goes that shortly before the battle, Afonso Henriques was visited by an old man, whom the man who would become Portugal’s first king four years later believed he had seen in his dreams.

The man gave him a prophetic revelation of victory. He also told him to leave the camp alone the following night, as soon as he heard the bell from the hermitage where the old man lived. The king did so.

It was then that a ray of light illuminated everything around him, allowing him to gradually make out the Sign of the Cross and Jesus Christ crucified. Overcome with emotion, he knelt down and heard the voice of the Lord, who promised him victory in this and other battles. The next day, Afonso Henriques won the battle.

According to legend, King Afonso Henriques then decided that the Portuguese flag would have five shields, or quinas, in a cross, representing the five vanquished kings and the five wounds of Christ.

There are so many myths that have shaped this country that it would be impossible and unfair to contain them all in a single article, so I’ve decided to create a series that will cross the country from north to south. In this article, we’ll visit the legends that have the center of Portugal as their backdrop. Let’s get to it!

Legend of the Lady with Goat’s Feet

Marialva Village Portugal
Marialva, one of Portugal’s Historical Villages, is said to be the setting of this legend. Photo by Julen Iturbe-Ormaetxe (Flickr).

It is said that Dom Diogo Lopes, noble lord of Biscay, was hunting in his domains and while waiting for a wild pig, he was surprised in the distance by the beautiful singing of a beautiful woman. He was so enchanted that he offered her his heart, his lands, and his vassals if she would marry him.

The lady imposed on him the only condition that he should never bless himself again. It wasn’t until some time later, back in his castle, that Diogo realized that the lady had a forked foot, like that of a goat. Nevertheless, they lived many happy years and from this union, they had two children: Inigo Guerra and Dona Sol.

One day, after a good hunt, Dom Diogo rewarded his big hound with a bone, but his wife’s black podenga killed the dog to take possession of the piece of wild boar. Surprised by such violence, Dom Diogo blessed himself.

The Lady with Goat’s Feet gave a cry and began to rise into the air with her daughter Dona Sol, both of them leaving through a window under a pitch-black starry sky, never to be seen again. Overcome with grief, Dom Diogo decided to go to war against the Moors for years, ending up as a captive in Toledo.

Not knowing how to rescue his father, Dom Inigo decided to look for his mother, who had become, according to some, a fairy and, according to others, a lost soul. The Lady with the Goat’s Foot decided to help her son by giving him an onagro, a kind of wild horse, which transported him to Toledo.

The onagro opened the cell door with a kick and the father and son rode away, but on the way they came across a stone cross which caused the animal to stop. The voice of the Goat-footed Lady instructed the onagro to avoid the cross.

Hearing that voice, after so many years and unaware of his son’s alliance with his mother, Dom Diogo Lopes blessed himself, which caused the onagro to spit them out of the cell, the earth to tremble and open, letting the fire of Hell be seen, which swallowed the animal. With the fright, father and son fainted.

Dom Diogo, in the few years he still lived, went to mass every day and went to confession every week. Dom Inigo, on the other hand, never entered a church again and it is believed that he had a pact with the Devil, because from then on, there was no battle he wouldn’t win.

Legend of the Shepherd and the Star

Serra da Estrela Portugal
The snowy Serra da Estrela is witness to this beautiful legend. Photo by ielaba98 (Flickr).

This is the story of a poor shepherd who lived in a sad village and whose only companion was a dog.

This shepherd gazed at the horizon and his heart was filled with the hope of one day traveling beyond the mountains that surrounded his village.

One moonlit night, as the shepherd gazed up at the starry sky, a tiny star with a child’s face came down and told him of his desire. It was there because of God’s will, to guide the shepherd wherever he wanted to go.

From then on, the star never left the shepherd, smiling down at him from the sky night after night.

Then came the day when the shepherd decided to leave and called the star. The old men of the village shook their wise heads at such folly.

The shepherd set off and walked for endless years. His dog couldn’t endure the hard journey and was left by the wayside, marked by a stone sign. The shepherd cried and continued in search of his destiny, growing old together with the star until one day they reached their destination, the highest mountain, the one closest to the sky, and there they stayed together.

The king of the region sent him emissaries with promises of power and fortune in exchange for the star. The shepherd replied that the star was not his but heaven’s and that he would never abandon it.

Legend has it that even today, from the Estrela mountain range, you can see a star that shines brighter than the others, out of longing and love for a shepherd. If you’re planning a visit, make sure you read out Serra da Estrela guide before you head there.

Legend of the Pledge of Justice

Penha Garcia Village Portugal
Penha Garcia, Photo by Pedro Nuno Caetano (Flickr).

A local legend tells that Dom Garcia, the mayor of Penha Garcia Castle, had long been courting Dona Branca, a young woman of rare beauty, the daughter of the powerful governor of Monsanto, another nearby historical village.

The story goes that on a stormy night, Garcia kidnapped Branca from her father’s house. That same night, the governor ordered his soldiers to search and chase Garcia all over the countryside in order to capture him and bring him to justice. After months of relentless pursuit through the lands of Beira, Dom Garcia was finally captured on the slopes of the mountains by the governor’s men.

Although practices of this kind at the time were punishable by capital punishment, in the face of his daughter’s insistent pleas to her father, the powerful governor spared Garcia’s life, condemning him to the loss of his left arm as a pledge of justice.

It is said that for centuries, many people have seen the ghost of the severed Dom Garcia on stormy nights. According to the locals, the legendary figure of the severed Dom Garcia continues to watch over the hill overlooking Monsanto from the top of the towers.

Both Penha Garcia and Monsanto are part of the Historical Villages Network and we have just the perfect guide to navigate you through all of them once you go there!

Legend of Aldeia das Dez

Aldeia das Dez Village Portugal
Ten coins, ten women, a village of ten. Photo by Pedro Nuno Caetano (Flickr).

The legend of Aldeia das Dez (literally “the village of the ten”) has its origins in the Reconquest of the Iberian Peninsula and is linked to the village’s current name. According to the legend, during the Christian Reconquest, ten women found a treasure in a cave on the slopes of Monte do Colcurinho. According to oral tradition and some surviving documents, this treasure had a value beyond the material.

These women would have realized its importance and, in a pact that persists to this day, they would have separated the pieces that made it up and passed them down from generation to generation – keeping the secret they contain unsolved to this day. Little is known about the composition of this secret.

As for the treasure, it is believed to include Antonini coins with encrypted inscriptions – one of which is found embedded in the frame of a painting that tells this legend. Little else is known about this painting, apart from the fact that it resurfaced in the middle of the 20th century in an antique shop in Oliveira do Hospital, only to disappear again.

It was painted by one of the descendants of the ten women and it is believed that portraying the legend may offer a key to its secret. If you want to give it a go and try to solve this mystery for yourself, make sure you check out our guide for the Schist Villages, of which Aldeia das Dez is part.

Legend of the Lady of Nazaré

Nazaré Portugal
Today, Nazaré is a surfing paradise. Photo by Javier Habladorcito (Flickr).

Legend has it that at dawn on September 14, 1182, Dom Fuas Roupinho, alcalde of the castle of Porto de Mós, was hunting along the coast, surrounded by dense fog, near his lands, when he spotted a deer that he immediately began to chase.

The deer, which many claim is the Devil, headed for the top of a cliff. Dom Fuas, in the fog, isolated himself from his companions. When he realized he was at the top of the cliff, on the edge of the precipice, in mortal danger, he recognized the place.

He was standing next to a grotto where an image of the Virgin Mary with the Child Jesus was being venerated. He then cried out in a loud voice: “Lady, help me!“. Immediately, the horse miraculously came to a standstill, planting its legs on the rocky cliff suspended above the void, the Bico do Milagre, thus saving the rider and his mount from the certain death that would have come from a fall of more than a hundred meters.

People say that you can still see the marks of Dom Fuas Roupinho’s horseshoes on the rock. After this, legend has it that Dom Fuas Roupinho dismounted and went down to the cave to pray and give thanks for the miracle.

He then had his companions call in masons to build a chapel over the grotto in memory of the miracle, the Ermida da Memória, where the miraculous image could be displayed for the veneration of the faithful.

Before plastering the grotto, the masons tore down the existing altar, and among the stones, unexpectedly, they found an ivory chest containing some relics and a parchment in which they identified the relics as those of St. Brás and St. Bartholomew, and also told the story of the small polychrome wooden image depicting the Blessed Virgin Mary sitting on a low stool breastfeeding the Child Jesus.

According to the parchment, the image had been venerated since the early days of Christianity in Nazareth, Galilee, and was saved in the 5th century from the iconoclastic movements by the Greek monk Cyriacus. He transported it to the monastery of Cauliniana, near Mérida, where it remained until 711, the year of the battle of Guadalete, after which, defeated by the Muslims, the Christian forces fled north.

The image was then brought by Friar Romano, a monk from Cauliniana, and by King Rodrigo, the last Visigoth king. Faced with the Islamic advance, the King and Friar Romano, one of the monks living there, decided to leave for safety, taking with them the small Marian image, a chest, and a box with relics, as well as an account of the circumstances of their escape.

They arrived at Mount St. Bartholomew, near what is now Nazareth. The monarch and the monk split up, with the former remaining at the site and the latter taking the icon along with the relics to a nearby hill.

There, Friar Romano built a small niche between the rocks for shelter. When he died and Don Rodrigo left for the north, the image was forgotten in the small lapa built by the monk on the present-day promontory of Sítio (of Nazaré). You can learn more about this site, as well as many others, in our Nazaré City Guide.

Last Thoughts

Portuguese legends are not just stories from the past; they are threads woven into the tapestry of national identity, shaping world views and passing on values from generation to generation. Each tale, such as the epic Battle of Ourique, not only feeds the collective imagination but also influences national symbols, such as the chevrons on the flag.

The center of Portugal is a region that is often forgotten, in limbo between Lisbon and Porto, between Spain and the Atlantic. And many of the region’s legends reflect precisely this feeling of isolation, of distance, of subsistence. This region, especially the interior, is also one of the regions that still keeps many of these legends and traditions alive to this day.

Just as Tolkien believed, these legends are not just fiction; they are reflections of deep truths that resonate through the centuries. The richness of Portuguese culture lies not only in its documented history but in the narratives that dwell in the hearts of the people, continuing to inspire and enchant each generation that delves into these timeless stories.

Thus, Portuguese legends remain not only as accounts of the past but as windows to understanding the soul of a people and the essence of their rich heritage.

Make sure you explore the country through its legends in these other articles: Northern Portugal’s Folk Tales, Lisbon Region’s Folk Tales, Southern Portugal’s Folk Tales, and Portuguese Islands’ Folk Tales.

The financial complexities of moving to Portugal for US Citizens

Portugal remains one of the most popular locations for US citizens looking to move abroad. Not only is Portugal a beautiful place to live, but it has also offered many tax benefits and a very popular Golden Visa scheme.

So why is Portugal such a popular destination for US citizens? Well, firstly Portugal has a lower cost of living than the United States. Although this varies from place to place, it remains, on average, around 40% lower, with rental costs over 50% less.

Portugal also offers safety, often cited as one of the main reasons that US citizens look to relocate. If you add this with an excellent health service, a fantastic climate, and a relaxed lifestyle, it is no wonder that Portugal remains one of the top destinations for US Citizens.

In addition to the above, one of the main drivers for people looking to relocate to Portugal has been the political stability and a very favorable tax system for new residents. However, this has been turned somewhat on its head with the events in Portugal over the last year.

This started back in February 2023 when it was announced that the Portuguese government would tackle the housing issues in the country. Prime Minister António Costa stated that there would be changes to the Golden Visa Programme as part of these efforts.

This resulted in property being removed as a qualifying factor in obtaining a Portuguese Golden Visa, which was traditionally one of the main routes to Portuguese and EU residency. This was followed on October the 2nd 2023 with the withdrawal of the Portuguese Non-Habitual Residency (NHR) scheme.

Want to become part of the large community of US expats in Portugal? Sign up for Holborn Assets’ live webinar on the challenges facing US connected clients moving or living in Portugal. Find out all about the financial perks of moving to Portugal and have all your burning questions answered. The event is scheduled for May 16 at 5 pm (Lisbon Time) / 12 pm EST. If you would like to schedule a one-on-one call instead, you can book one here.


Register Your Spot

The Non-Habitual Residency (NHR) Scheme Updates for 2024

This scheme was another main factor in people relocating to Portugal. If this wasn’t enough political change in one year, António Costa was forced to resign in November due to a raid on his official residence and a potential criminal Investigation.

With all this change affecting Portugal, it is no surprise that people are having to think longer and harder about making their choice to relocate. To make it even more difficult, US-connected individuals have a lot more to think about financially before making this move.

So, what makes US-connected individuals have to think harder about making this move?Not unique to US individuals but nonetheless a high factor to consider in moving to Portugal is the withdrawal of NHR. Now in a Grandfathering period, NHR remains out of the reach of most people looking to relocate. This means tax benefits such as a 10% flat rate on pension income, or a flat rate of 20% income tax, have now been replaced by a much harsher tax regime for most people.

You may still qualify for NHR if you fit into the below Grandfathering rules:

  • Promissory employment agreement or promissory secondment agreement (or employment or secondment agreement) signed by 31 December 2023 to perform activities in Portugal or
  • Lease agreement or other agreement granting the use or possession of property located in Portugal and concluded before 10 October 2023 or
  • Reservation or promissory contract for the acquisition of property located in Portugal concluded before 10 October 2023 or
  • Enrolment or registration for dependents at Portuguese educational establishment by 10 October 2023; or
  • Residence visa or residence permit valid by 31 December 2023; or
  • The procedure, initiated by 31 December 2023, is for granting a residence visa or residence permit with the competent entities in accordance with the current immigration legislation (e.g., visa appointment in 2023).

There will be a new regime replacing NHR which will aim to attract foreign talent and investment to Portugal. This is aimed at people who are employed and in roles such as scientific research, technology, start-ups, or higher education. There will be a 20% flat rate on employment income for qualifying people, but this is likely to be less beneficial than the previous regime.

The 2024 general tax rates for personal income in Portugal are as follows currently:

Up to €7,703 13.25%

€11,623 –€16,472 23%

€16,472 –€21,321 26%

€21,321 –€27,146 32.75%

€27,146 –€39,791 37%

€39,791 –€51,997 43.5%

€51,997 –€81,199 45%

Over €81,199 48%

What to Consider: US Connected Citizens 

If this alone is food for thought, there is even more to think about for those US-connected clients. Firstly, all US-connected citizens are required to file a US tax return if living outside of the United States, as their worldwide income is subject to income tax regardless of where they live.

In fact, the United States is one of only three countries that insist on this reporting. The other two are North Korea and Eritrea. If filling out these forms is not a burden enough, if your financial assets are not set up in a compliant manner for both Portugal and the United States, it could lead to some nasty surprises from the IRS.

Portugal has, for a long time, had some very effective wrappers that prove very effective in reducing taxes after set periods of time. These wrappers will often not provide the same level of benefit for US-connected clients.

Many US citizens hold pension and investment products such as 401k’s, IRA’s, defined benefit pensions, and many other types of holdings. These need to be carefully structured when making the move to Portugal to ensure that they are tax compliant with the Portuguese tax system. An example of this would be to avoid Passive Foreign Investment Companies (PFIC’s).

The right advice is also essential for anyone looking to move outside of the United States. Cross-border regulation is essential and often cannot be provided.

Whatever your situation, it remains that Portugal is one of the most beautiful places in the world to live. No change in a political regime or a tax break can alter this. It is just more essential now, more than ever, that the right advice is sought to put you and your family in the best position possible.

Northern Portugal’s Folk Tales

We need to know how to interpret and distinguish legends from reality, as well as why these legends exist in the culture of each people and region. Portugal is a country extremely rich in stories, myths, and ancient legends, which inspire customs and superstitions. There are hundreds of Portuguese legends, tales, sayings, and popular beliefs that make our culture so rich and interesting.

Told in the evenings in the cold winters by our ancestors, from werewolves to fairies, witches to mermaids, ghosts and feathered souls to the miracles of saints, there isn’t a creature that our folklore doesn’t include, with the exception, perhaps, of vampires, because this isn’t a subject that is part of our legendary imagination.

But not all Portuguese legends are about creatures and monsters. Many of them reveal lands and people of courage, stories of revenge, justice, impossible loves, and perfect loves, others concern true events but with touches of imagination, probably to increase the dramatic or heroic charge of what really happened.

In fact, legends are such an important part of Portugal’s core that some even precede the country’s history, such as the legend of the Battle of Ourique. The legend goes that shortly before the battle, Afonso Henriques was visited by an old man, whom the man who would become Portugal’s first king four years later believed he had seen in his dreams.

The man gave him a prophetic revelation of victory. He also told him to leave the camp alone the following night, as soon as he heard the bell from the hermitage where the old man lived. The king did so.

It was then that a ray of light illuminated everything around him, allowing him to gradually make out the Sign of the Cross and Jesus Christ crucified. Overcome with emotion, he knelt down and heard the voice of the Lord, who promised him victory in this and other battles. The next day, Afonso Henriques won the battle.

According to legend, King Afonso Henriques then decided that the Portuguese flag would have five shields, or quinas, in a cross, representing the five vanquished kings and the five wounds of Christ.

There are so many myths that have shaped this country that it would be impossible and unfair to contain them all in a single article, so I’ve decided to create a series that will cross the country from north to south. In this article, we’ll visit the legends that have the north of Portugal as their backdrop. Let’s get to it!

Legend of the Moor of Chaves’ Bridge

Chaves Portugal
Chaves, Photo by Carlos Ebert (Flickr)

Legend has it that in the 12th century, a young woman of Moorish origin became engaged to her cousin, Abed, the son of a Moorish warrior who had been made alcalde after the Moors retook the lands of Flavi. Although the young woman accepted the engagement, she didn’t love her future husband.

Years later, the Christians returned to reconquer Chaves, and the young Moor was taken hostage by a Christian warrior. The Moor and the Christian fell in love and lived happily, while her betrothed and her uncle fled Chaves. The Christians won the war and peace was restored.

Abed, who knew about the affair, never forgave her and returned to the city dressed as a beggar to take revenge. One day he waited for her on Trajan’s Roman bridge and when he saw her approaching, he asked for alms. The Moor, who held out her hand, looked at him and the rejected Moor cursed her, saying: “You will forever be enchanted under the third arch of this bridge. Only the love of a Christian knight, not the one who took you, can save you.”

A woman’s scream was heard. The young woman had recognized Abed. It is said that the Moor disappeared as if by magic, and only a few Christian ladies witnessed it. In desperation, the Christian warrior who lived with her did everything he could to find her. He searched the bridge endlessly and even paid to have Abed brought back alive to break the spell.

The lover looked everywhere for his Moor but never found her, and ended up dying of sadness and longing after a few years. The enchanted Moor from the bridge was never seen again. Years later, the locals say that one St. John’s Eve, a Christian knight was passing by the bridge when he heard murmurs and cries for help. Then a woman’s voice asked him to go down to the third arch of the bridge and give her a kiss.

But the knight hesitated. He touched the crucifix on his chest, remembering the tales his mother used to tell him about the misfortunes of knights who fell under the spell of enchanted Moors. Faced with these thoughts, he looked at his horse, mounted it, and set off, vowing never to pass there again at midnight.

Thus, the Moorish woman on the Chaves bridge was enchanted forever under the third arch. Legend has it that now, on St. John’s Eve, you can hear the wails of the enchanted Moor, who is eternally punished for having fallen in love one day.

Chaves and its castle are part of one of the most epic road trip itineraries we ever put together, the Great Border Castles Road Trip. So make sure you check it out to learn more about this city.

Legend of the Barcelos Rooster

Barcelos Rooster Portugal
The rooster has become synonym with Barcelos, Photo by Pedro Nuno Caetano (Flickr)

The story goes that the inhabitants of Barcelos were alarmed by a crime in which the perpetrator had not yet been discovered. One day, a Galician appeared and became a suspect. The authorities decided to arrest him, despite his oaths of innocence, as he was just passing through on a pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela in fulfillment of a promise, as was the tradition at the time, being a faithful devotee of Saint Paul and the Blessed Virgin.

In the end, however, he was sentenced to death on the gallows. In despair at this decision and knowing that he was innocent, the man asked to be brought before the judge who had condemned him. When permission was granted, he was taken to the magistrate’s residence, where he was feasting in a large room with some friends.

The Galician once again affirmed his innocence and, in the face of the incredulity of those present, pointed to a roast cockerel that was on the large table next to other delicacies, exclaiming: “It’s as certain that I’m innocent as it is that this cockerel will crow when they hang me!”

In the face of laughter, which wasn’t long in coming, but just in case, no one touched the rooster. The judge pushed the plate aside and ignored the appeal. Then what seemed impossible happened: as the pilgrim was being hanged, the roast cockerel stood up on the table and crowed to the amazement of all those who had mocked the poor Galician.

After this event, no one doubted the innocence of the Galician pilgrim. Realizing his mistake, the judge rushed to the gallows and discovered that the Galician had been saved thanks to a poorly made noose. The poor man was immediately released and sent off in peace, and the case was closed.

A few years later, the Galician returned to Barcelos to sculpt the Monument of Senhor do Galo in praise of the Virgin Mary and Santiago Maior. This monument is currently in the Barcelos Archaeological Museum. It is said that the first ceramic rooster based on this legend was made by the craftsman Domingos Côto.

Since then, the Barcelos Rooster has become a popular figure and has spread, strengthening the tradition over the decades, immortalized in the art not only of the city of Barcelos, but of the whole of Portugal, whether made of ceramics, wood, or other materials. It’s the most famous Portuguese souvenir.

If you would like to learn more about Portugal’s rich history and tradition of handcrafts, make sure to read our Guide to Portugal’s Traditional Handicraft.

The Legend of the Lady Who Passed

Paçô River Portugal
Today, the River Homem is named after the man in this legend. Photo by Pedro Nuno Caetano (Flickr)

In Vila Verde, Braga, a parish called Paçô was marked by an impossible love. The legend of Paçô tells that one day, a father and daughter were walking along the road when they decided to stop and rest. The daughter, Joana, went down to a stream to drink some water and cool off.

Suddenly the young woman’s astonishment came when the stream spoke to her in a man’s voice! Startled, she listened as the stream told her that for the love she had for it, it would turn into a river to follow her. The stream with the voice of a man asked young Joana to kiss its waters and say “Love” softly, to seal the promise.

She did so but then ran to her father, who was calling her. At night, while her father slept, Joana sneaked out to see if the stream had followed her. She came down to a river! The girl asked the river to show itself in the form of a man, to which the river complied.

At the moment when the river became a man, Joana’s father appeared and, seeing his daughter with a boy, was beside himself and took her away. The man-made river could only watch his beloved disappear. The next day, the people say, a man’s voice could be heard wailing from the side of the river.

Has she passed here? Has she? Has she?” the voice asked. Legend has it that from repeating these words so often, the place became known as Passô, and the river was named River Homem (the Portuguese word for “man”). Young Joana was never heard from again, but her memory lives on in Vila Verde.

Legend of the Tripeiros

Porto Portugal
Porto’s people are colloquially known as “tripeiros”. Photo by Michaela Loheit (Flickr).

This is a legend that is part of the history of Portugal and the European discoveries. And, without a doubt, it is certainly one of Portugal’s scary legends.

Well, legend has it that in 1415 ships and boats were built on the banks of the River Douro, but the reasons for this were secret. Despite various speculations, nobody knew for sure what the real reasons for the construction were.

However, one day Prince Henry the Navigator showed up unexpectedly in Porto to see the work in progress and, although he was pleased with the effort made, he thought that even more could be done. In addition, he told Master Vaz, the faithful construction foreman, the true and secret reasons why they were building ships and boats: the conquest of Ceuta.

He then asked the master and his men for more commitment and sacrifices so that the work could be finished. Master Vaz then promised him that all the men, as a sacrifice, would give all the meat in the city and eat only the guts. This is why they became known as tripeiros.

Moved by the sacrifice, Prince Henry then pointed out that the name of tripeiros was a real honor for the people of Porto. Thus, it is believed that the tripeiros helped Prince Henry the Navigator’s great fleet, with seven galleys and twenty ships, set off on its way to conquer Ceuta.

Make sure you give our Porto City Guide a read, to learn a lot more about this incredible city.

Legend of Pedro Sem

Porto Portugal
Porto was home to João Sem’s fortune and misfortune. Photo by Julien Chatelain (Flickr).

Pedro Sem was a wealthy merchant from the city of Porto. Despite his wealth, he didn’t have a noble title, something that saddened him greatly. He lived surrounded by every luxury thanks to the misfortune of others since he lent money at high interest rates. And that’s how he fulfilled his ambition of belonging to the nobility: he married a young noblewoman in exchange for the forgiveness of his father’s debts.

The wedding feast had been going on for 15 days when his ships, coming from India, approached the Douro estuary. Arrogant, the merchant climbed the tower of his palace and defied God, saying that not even the Creator could make him poor.

But at that moment, the blue sky was covered by a storm. The ships were shipwrecked and the tower was struck by lightning, which started a fire that destroyed all their possessions.

As for Pedro Sem, he had no choice but to start begging in the streets, lamenting: “Give some change to Pedro Sem, who had everything and now has nothing“.

Last Thoughts

Portuguese legends are not just stories from the past; they are threads woven into the tapestry of national identity, shaping world views and passing on values from generation to generation. Each tale, such as the epic Battle of Ourique, not only feeds the collective imagination but also influences national symbols, such as the chevrons on the flag.

Exploring the north of Portugal, we come across the fascinating Moor of Chaves’ Bridge, a story of forbidden loves and enchantments that defy time; the legend of the Rooster that transcended criminal history to become a national icon, highlighting the importance of justice and faith; or the legend of the Lady Who Passed, which weaves a narrative of lost love and mystical transformations.

Just as Tolkien believed, these legends are not just fiction; they are reflections of deep truths that resonate through the centuries. The richness of Portuguese culture lies not only in its documented history but in the narratives that dwell in the hearts of the people, continuing to inspire and enchant each generation that delves into these timeless stories.

Thus, Portuguese legends remain not only as accounts of the past but as windows to understanding the soul of a people and the essence of their rich heritage.

Make sure you explore the country through its legends in these other articles: Central Portugal’s Folk Tales, Lisbon Region’s Folk Tales, Southern Portugal’s Folk Tales, and Portuguese Islands’ Folk Tales.

Going to the Vet in Lisbon

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Portugal in general loves its four-legged friends with over half of Portuguese households owning a pet. Many cafés have outdoor dining where pets are welcome. Restaurants offer dog treats or put out a water bowl for their animal guests. Water fountains in public parks sometimes have a spigot at the base to make it easier for owners to give their pets a drink. Dog parks are also available in Portugal’s bigger cities. Pets, like babies and children, are also greeted by the Portuguese with love and affection instead of frustration. In short, your pet will be quite welcome in Portugal.  

Photo by chanyq320 (Flickr)

Moving your pet to Portugal is not a simple process, but once you arrive, it’s also important to know where to go to give your furry companions the best care. The Portuguese capital of Lisbon has a wide range of high-quality clinics to ensure that your pet will receive the best veterinary assistance whether you need a check-up, a vaccine, or urgent care.

Prices for vet care in Lisbon are generally comparable to clinics in the USA or other European countries, but you may find that it’s easier to make an appointment in Portugal and some additional services may be thrown in under the same consultation fee.

We have provided our top five choices for vet care in Lisbon below, but this list is by no means exhaustive. We can assure you that great veterinary clinics are never too far from your door in Portugal’s capital city.

Best Veterinary Clinics in Lisbon

São Bento Veterinary Hospital

Location: R. de Sāo Bento 358-A, 1200-822

São Bento Veterinary Hospital is undoubtedly one of the best veterinary clinics in Lisbon and certainly one of the fanciest. Entering the hospital here feels more like entering a spa, and they even have separate floors for cats and dogs. The hospital is also open 24 hours a day for emergency treatment. Prices are fair and comparable to the USA, but the quality of the facility here is likely nicer. The doctors here also speak English, so a language barrier will not be an issue in getting your cuddly companion the best care possible.

Photo by Kerri Lee Smith (Flickr)

São João Veterinary Clinic

Location: Praça Sāo João Bosco 17, 1350-296

São João is a great vet clinic in the western district of Campo de Ourique for check-ups and vaccines. The doctors here are very caring and the consultation fees are cheaper than in many comparable US clinics, starting at 30€ regardless of whether you bring in one dog or two. The doctors here also speak English and are generous with their time. It is common, depending on the doctor, to receive follow-up care without having every extra service charged. It is also easy to bring a pet in without an appointment here, making it easy to stay on top of even the smallest of issues with your pet.

CoolVet

Location: R. Borges Grainha 11, 1170-302

CoolVet near the neighborhood of Intendente is an expat-friendly clinic that can issue European pet passports in addition to taking care of any daily issues that your furbaby may encounter in their Lisbon lives. Doctors speak English and several other languages here and give each pet time and affection. The love that the staff have for animals is palpable and many customers have been coming for years. Prices are also affordable and in line with other clinics.

Alcântara Veterinary Clinic

Location: R. Luis de Camōes 133 A, 1300-357

For those living closer to Alcântara, this clinic has highly dedicated professionals and many customers who have been bringing their furry friends here for more than 10 years. The entire staff is attentive to your needs and will ensure that your pets receive the best care. While the facilities may not be as modern as São Bento Veterinary Clinic, the attention given to your beloved companions is always reliable. Prices are comparable to other top-notch clinics in the city.

Cat Hospital

Location: R. Fernão Mendes Pinto 56, 1400-146

The Cat Hospital is on the western outskirts of Lisbon in a district called Algés, but for those with feline friends, it’s a great place to get specialized care. The Cat Hospital is on call 24/7 and handles emergency care. No appointment is necessary although calling in advance will help. The hospital is clean, convenient, and well-prepared for whatever your cat may need. They also offer cat adoption for those looking for a pet.

Photo by Ralf RKLFoto (Flickr)

Great Places to Buy Pet Food in Lisbon

Once you’ve found your favorite vet clinic, it’s also important to know where to buy the best food for your pet. While all major supermarkets such as Pingo Doce or Continente offer pet food, here are a few specialty shops to find great food and specialty items for your pet family.

Petblue

Location: Rua Dom João V 31, 1250-091

Returning to the neighborhood of Campo do Ourique, Petblue is one of the best all-around pet shops in Lisbon with a wide range of pet supplies for different budgets. They also offer a self-service bath and drying space for pets, and the staff are also known to give treats to pets at the register. Prices are fair and customer service is attentive. If you are a pet owner, it’s worth a trip to this neighborhood just to stop by Petblue.

Marco e os Animais

Location: R. Ferreira Borges 92A

Another winner in the Campo do Ourique neighborhood is Marco e os Animais. Great prices, grooming service, and even animal adoption are available here. The staff of dedicated professionals are ready to help you find anything you need. If something is not in stock, it can be quickly ordered for you. Marco e os Animais is actually a chain with shops also in Areeiro and Lapa.

Empório Do Bicho

Location: Tv. Monte do Carmo 17, 1200-276

Empório Do Bicho is a small, centrally located pet shop with a friendly owner named Miguel. Despite its modest size, Empório Do Bicho is well stocked and Miguel can get anything that is out of stock delivered within a few days. Like Petblue, this shop also offers a grooming service. Walking into this shop is like stepping into an old-fashioned grocery store but for pets. Don’t be surprised if a pet is waiting there to greet you. 

Sancho Pancho Pet Store

Location: R. de Sant’Ana à Lapa 112A, 1200-800

Owners Dasha and Rafael are doing something different at their small pet shop in Lapa. Sancho Pancho repurposes rescued ingredients from farms, supermarkets, local butchers, and fish shops to make healthy, natural dog treats. The treats are nutrient-rich, 100% natural and minimally processed, have no additives or artificial flavors, and are suitable for all types of dogs and life stages. By buying treats from Sancho Pancho, you are contributing to sustainability. 

Should I buy pet insurance?

Most pet owners in Lisbon pay out-of-pocket at the vet clinics, but pet insurance is available if you want to cover a member of your pet family. Activo Bank, a local subsidiary of Millennium Bank, offers a pet insurance simulator here, ranging from 34€ to 372€ per year for, as an example, one four-year-old Golden Retriever. This changes, of course, depending on the age and breed of your pet. If you have an older pet, you may find the cost of insurance to be too expensive. Overall, this is a personal choice. The insurance is available, but many opt not to take out a policy. 

Final Thoughts

When it comes to vet care, your pet will be in great hands in the city of Lisbon. A wide range of clinics and pet stores are available to ensure that your pet has the best quality care and nutrition. Prices are affordable and you will soon bump into many other enthusiastic pet owners around the city. Check out a dog park, join a local Facebook group for pet owners, and try a few clinics to find the best one for you. Your pet will feel at home in no time!

Lisbon can activate contingency plan for the homeless due to cold

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The city of Lisbon is monitoring the meteorological conditions in order to activate the contingency plan for the homeless, if required.

According to the Mayor of Lisbon, both the Mayor’s office and the Civil Protection are monitoring the meteorological conditions closely. If the low temperatures reach a certain level, the contingency plan shall be activated.

In order for the plan to be activated, certain criteria must be met. The Portuguese Institute for the Sea and Atmosphere has to emit a yellow or orange cold weather alert. Such an alert corresponds to temperatures between 37.4ºF and 30.2ªF for, at least, 48 hours.

If that happens and the alert is emitted, the Mayor does not have to do anything. The plan is immediately, and automatically activated, and Lisbon’s Civil Protection shall guarantee that those that live on the street are protected.

The plan is designed to accommodate more than 1.000 people during the night, and there are several locations throughout the city that are prepared for the eventuality. If activated, those in need will also benefit from social and medical support, hygienic care, and warm food and clothes.

Up until now, the criteria have not been met. However, the Mayor requested the Civil Protection to check the projections of the Institute for the Sea and Atmosphere every hour.

Furthermore, the Mayor also stated that, even if the criteria are not met, the plan can still be activated. If the Mayor himself notes that the temperature is too cold for someone to be sleeping on the street, in his opinion, he will immediately call for the activation, independently of the established protocol.

Nurse’s Order blames National Health Service’s administration for ER chaos and reduced vaccination rate

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The Portuguese Nurse’s Order has blamed the Executive Direction of the National Health Service for the increase in mortality and the chaos in hospitalizations and emergency services.

According to the official statements, the Nurse’s Order criticizes the executive decision that allowed flu and COVID-19 vaccinations to take place in pharmacies. The Order opposed the decision from day one, arguing it would be ineffective.

The truth is that this new strategy, which cost the taxpayer 12 million euros, coincides with a 21% increase in the flu death rate when compared to last year’s homologous period. Moreover, 96% of the flu cases admitted to the emergency cases are of the influenza A virus, and most patients are not vaccinated.

The strategy led to a significant decrease in the vaccination rate, which resulted in a surge in mortality, and chaos in hospitalization and emergency rooms. Furthermore, the immunization rate is now the worst in the last 5 years.

An efficient vaccination strategy is the most effective mechanism to prevent illness. Thus, in light of the data on the new strategy, the Order emphasizes that the vaccination process should be centralized once again. Citizens should be vaccinated by nurses, within hospitals and/or public health centers.

The order believes that instead of channeling money to private companies that are not capable of guaranteeing the necessary conditions to administer vaccines and follow an effective vaccination strategy properly, the Portuguese Government should invest in reinforcing primary public health care.

The free vaccinations were only provided to those 60 and above, as well as other vulnerable groups such as pregnant women and health care workers.

However, this week, the free vaccination program has now been extended to other groups. People over 50 years old are eligible for the free flu vaccine and those above 18 are eligible for the COVID-19 vaccine. 

Family Recipe: Roasted Turkey and Rice with Raisins, Pine Nuts, and Almonds

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These two recipes will allow you to embark on a culinary odyssey, through time, as they come from an old family book. Hidden within the faded, handwritten pages, which do not even stick together anymore, the art of roasting turkey to perfection in a simple way, and making rice with raisins, pine nuts, and almonds, has been preserved.

Now, it will be shared with you. These two recipes, which come from two different persons but are usually served together by my family, make a great, comforting, and very tasty meal. I hope you make the most of these dishes, which are steeped in tradition and have been passed down through generations.

Roasted Turkey and Rice with Raisins, Pine Nuts, and Almonds Recipe

Ingredients

Turkey

  • 1 turkey
  • 1 large onion
  • salt
  • port wine
  • margarine
  • lard
  • refined salt
  • sea salt
  • black pepper

Rice

  • 1 medium sized onion
  • 2 cloves of garlic
  • olive oil
  • basmati rice (2 cups)
  • raisins (⅔ of a tablespoon)
  • pine nuts (⅔ of a tablespoon)
  • sliced almonds (⅔ of a tablespoon)

Roasted Turkey Instructions

  1. One day before cooking, open the turkey’s belly (make sure the turkey is fully prepared for cooking, without feathers, organs, etc) and insert the onion (peeled and sliced), one handful of sea salt, and one cup of port wine.
  2. After inserting the ingredients, sew the turkey’s belly with cooking twine and let it rest inside the fridge until the next day.
  3. On the day, prepare a paste with margarine, lard, refined salt, and pepper. You can use as much of each ingredient as you please. Just make sure you are able to create a paste that you like.
  4. Then, spread the paste all over the turkey, put it in the preheated oven (356 Fahrenheit), and soak it with port wine from above.
  5. Let the turkey cook for two hours, more or less. During those two hours, open the oven from time to time and use a spoon to shower the turkey with the port wine.

Rice Instructions

Note: If you wish to make more than 2 cups of rice, increase the quantities of the other ingredients proportionally.

  1. Slice the onion and the garlic into tiny pieces. Inside a pan, put a generous quantity of olive oil (enough to cover the bottom of the pan) and braise the onion.
  2. When the onion is starting to get soft, join the garlic and let it cook in the olive oil until the onion is very soft and transparent (if needed, add a bit more olive oil when joining the garlic).
  3. Once the onion is perfectly cooked, add the raisins, the pine nuts and the sliced almonds, mix it, and let the mixture fry for a bit (without overcooking it).
  4. Then, add the rice, mix, and let the mixture fry again for a bit (without burning or letting it stick to the pan). If needed, add a little bit more olive oil, so it does not stick.
  5. Then, add hot water (double the quantity of rice, for two cups of rice, four cups of water) and add a pinch of sea salt. Cover the pan with the lid but place a wooden spoon between the lid and the pan, to let the cooking breathe. Let the rice cook on low heat for 15 minutes, more or less.
  6. Check the rice frequently so it does not overcook. If needed, stir very gently from time to time. Once it is done (make sure it is not completely dry, you must see a bit of moisture at the bottom of the pan when you check the rice), turn the heat off, move the pan to another area of the stove, and let it rest for another 15 minutes with the lid closed.

Portugal’s Historical Villages

Indulge in the irresistible allure of traversing the myriad pathways that wind through quaint villages, offering a spectrum of experiences from leisurely strolls to exhilarating rides or scenic drives. Immerse yourself in the captivating vistas that unfold before your eyes and seize the opportunity to savor the authentic flavors of the region’s most cherished traditional products.

A Bit of History

These villages, though mere specks on the world map, wielded profound influence, altering the destiny of a nation. Nestled strategically alongside the Spanish border, Portugal’s Historic Villages stand as a testament to the foresight of generations of monarchs committed to territorial defense.

King Afonso I, architect of the County of Portugal, and D. Dinis, the monarch who inked the treaty defining the enduring border with Spain, spearheaded the fortification and settlement of this crucial area.

Over the centuries, rulers erected castles, fortified walls, bestowed charters, and granted privileges to those who took residence in these contested regions. The battles fought in these lands prompted the swift construction of chapels and churches, each victory giving rise to legends that bestowed a mystical aura upon the Portuguese Beira, echoing the rich tapestry of Portugal’s history.

Echoing the unity forged in medieval times against external threats, today’s challenge lies in combating the relentless march of time and the specter of desertification. The Historic Villages Network has not only undertaken the physical restoration of facades, roofs, urban infrastructure, and monuments but has imbued these villages with renewed symbolic significance.

This revitalization has catalyzed economic growth, empowered local communities to actively participate, and injected vitality into the region, creating a harmonious blend of the weathered faces of longtime residents and the eager countenances of adventurous visitors seeking to explore the soul of the Portuguese Beira.

For Both Adventurers and History Buffs

For those with an adventurous spirit and a penchant for history, the Historic Villages beckon from within the embrace of the natural wonders of Portuguese Beira, nestled proximate to Serra da Marofa, Serra da Estrela Natural Park, Gardunha, and the Natural Reserve of Malcata. Succumb to the allure of the myriad trails weaving through these villages, whether on foot, horseback, or by car. Let the breathtaking panoramas inspire you as you savor the region’s time-honored delicacies. The cheese, wine, kid, lamb, sausages, and olive oils of central Portugal encapsulate its rich history.

Explore the historical centers, where religious heritage, popular architecture, palaces, and manor houses await your exploration. Allow the epochs of Medieval Portugal, the Age of Discoveries, the Restoration, the French Invasions, and even prehistory to unfold before you. The allure is such that you need not absorb everything at once – we are confident that, in due time, the call of the Historical Villages of Portugal will beckon you back for another enchanting journey through time.

So, What’s the Plan?

Great question! Even though there are only twelve villages in this network, they’re well worth your time. So, with that in mind, I divided them into three groups, each with four villages, according to their location and proximity. This way, you can split your visit into three days and enjoy this region to the fullest.

Northwestern Villages

This group of villages is perfect to get acquainted with the concept of the Historical Villages and to build up your stamina, as you’ll need to walk up quite a few hilly streets!

Linhares da Beira

Linhares da Beira Village Portugal
Linhares da Beira, Photo by Julen Iturbe-Ormaetxe (Flickr)

Our journey starts at Linhares da Beira. It’s a bit of a drive if you’re coming from Lisbon, but it’s well worth it. Follow the A1 all the way to Coimbra and, right after passing it, switch to the IC3. After Viseu, switch to the A25 highway and, in Celorico da Beira, take the N17. Linhares da Beira should be easy to find from there.

Located in the heart of the Serra da Estrela Natural Park, this medieval village, which received its first charter from King Afonso Henriques in 1169, is a veritable open-air museum and wandering through its streets and alleys, lined with granite houses, is a real journey back in time.

Among the must-see places are its majestic castle, the Mergulho fountain and medieval forum, the Casa do Judeu, the Old Guest House, the main church, the pillory and the Old Town Hall and Jail.

Fun fact, Linhares da Beira is considered the Paragliding Capital of Portugal because it has excellent conditions for practicing the sport. So, if you like strong emotions and little gravity, go for it!

Trancoso

Trancoso Village Portugal
Trancoso, Photo by Pedro Nuno Caetano (Flickr)

Go back to Celorico da Beira and hop back on the A25 highway. Then take the IP2 headed north for about 20 minutes. Trancoso should be on your left.

Due to its privileged location between the Douro, Côa and Mondego rivers, it has been the scene of disputes since time immemorial. It was considered central to the Romans, was a bastion in the Christian reconquest and the scene of the famous Battle of Trancoso, in which the Portuguese forces imposed a heavy defeat on the Castilian forces, which served as a prelude to the Battle of Aljubarrota.

Start your visit by crossing the admirable Porta d’El Rei, the perfect starting point for exploring the walled historic center of Trancoso, which in the distant year of 1281 witnessed the marriage of King Dinis to Isabel of Aragon.

Take your time wandering through the medieval streets, let yourself be dazzled by the magnificence of the Town Hall and the Ducal Palace, admire the elaborately carved Pillory, visit the beautiful Churches of São Pedro and Santa Maria, cross the ramparts without trepidation through the Prado, Carvalho and Traição Gates, discover Trancoso’s Jewish heritage at the Isaac Cardoso Jewish Culture Interpretation Center, try to find the tiny Boeirinho and end your visit on a high by climbing up to Trancoso Castle, one of the oldest in Portugal.

Marialva

Marialva Village Portugal
Marialva, Photo by Julen Iturbe-Ormaetxe (Flickr)

From Trancoso, it’s pretty easy to get here. Just take the IP2 for 20 minutes.

Marialva is closely linked to the tragedy of the Távoras because, at the time of the regicide against King José I, its mayor was the Marquis of Távora. This led to the population abandoning the citadel that existed inside the castle. This is precisely why the citadel is in ruins today. And so that you can better feel the weight of history, the decision was taken not to restore them.

Believe me, walking through the narrow streets of the village and visiting the ruins of the citadel inside the towering castle – balanced on top of a granite cliff – will almost instantly take you back in time.

Don’t forget to visit the Church of Santiago, with its Manueline portal, the Church of São Pedro, the 16th century Cistern, the old Town Hall and the Manor House of the Marquises of Marialva.

Castelo Rodrigo

Castelo Rodrigo Village Portugal
Castelo Rodrigo, Photo by Julen Iturbe-Ormaetxe (Flickr)

Castelo Rodrigo looks like something out of a medieval movie. When you see its old walls in the distance, with their imposing turrets, and the golden houses perched on the hill, it’s love at first sight. It’s really easy to see why it was considered one of the 7 Wonders of Portugal.

Crossing the emblematic Porta do Sol is like stepping through a portal between two worlds. Castelo Rodrigo has more than a handful of monuments worth visiting. Among the most emblematic are the castle, the towers and turrets, the pillory, the medieval cistern, the main church and the ruins of the Cristóvão de Moura Palace.

But the best thing about Castelo Rodrigo is wandering around its medieval streets and discovering the little details that give it color, such as the Hebrew inscriptions and crosses carved on the doorposts and staves, marks of the presence of Jews and new Christians that time has not erased.

Northeastern Villages

One of the most unique fortresses in Europe, a walled village nestled atop a cliff, and the birthplace of the man who, over five centuries ago, discovered Brazil, propelling Portugal into a whole new era. These are just some of the highlights of this group of villages.

Almeida

Almeida Village Portugal
Almeida, Photo by Marmontel (Flickr)

You’ll need to head southeast to get to Almeida. Take the N102, N324, and N340. After just one hour, you’ll arrive in Almeida.

When seen from the air, Praça Forte de Almeida looks like a 12-pointed star, as many as the bastions and ravelins that surround it.

Needless to say, Almeida has been the scene of epic battles, one of the most famous being the “Siege of Almeida” in 1810, during the Third French Invasion. If you visit the city in August, don’t miss the historical re-enactment of this event. It’s best to bring earplugs, as the noise of the cannons is deafening.

Almeida is full of points of interest and so I highly recommend that you set aside a whole afternoon to visit the fortress, the Casa da Roda dos Expostos, the Casa dos Governadores, the castle ruins, the Picadeiro d’el Rei, the Paços do Concelho, the Casamatas, the Quartel das Esquadras, the main church, the Misericórdia church, the clock tower, the old cemetery and the Historical-Military Museum.

Castelo Mendo

Castelo Mendo Village Portugal
Castelo Mendo, Photo by Pedro Nuno Caetano (Flickr)

Follow the N340 headed south and you’ll arrive in less than 30 minutes.

The devastating earthquake of 1755 may have knocked down the eight towers that protected the citadel and the walled village, but it didn’t dent the charm of Castelo Mendo. And you only have to pass through the arch of the Porta da Vila to see for yourself.

Stroll down the pretty right-hand street, observe the precious details of the Manueline houses, let yourself be amazed by the beautiful Pelourinho square (home to the Mother Church and the Alpendrada Balcony), visit the community oven and the old town hall, courthouse and jail (a real three-in-one) and climb up the medieval sidewalk to the highest point of the village to see the ruins of the Church of Santa Maria do Castelo and the old castle gates in situ.

Portugal’s first official fair was held in Castelo Mendo at the behest of King Sancho II. As such, every April Castelo Mendo organizes one of the best Medieval Fairs in Portugal. The setting is simply perfect!

Sortelha

Sortelha Village Portugal
Sortelha, Photo by Javier Habladorcito (Flickr)

Another straightforward drive. Just take the N324 headed south and you should start seeing Sortelha in the distance after about 45 minutes.

Sortelha is not only one of the best-preserved historic villages, but it also has a simply stunning landscape. From the top of its towers and walls, you get simply overwhelming views over the rugged Beira landscapes.

As you pass through the walls, which have protected it for centuries, you’ll feel like you’re in a real open-air museum. Walk slowly and savor the nostalgic medieval atmosphere of the village.

Among the many places of interest you can visit within the walls, the highlights are the impressive keep, the wall gates, the Facho tower, the main church and bell tower, the Casa dos Falcões, the town hall and jail in Largo do Pelourinho and the Arab House.

Outside the walls, I recommend visiting the Misericórdia Church and Hospital and looking for the famous Cabeça da Velha and Duas Pedras Beijoqueiras stones.

Belmonte

Belmonte Village Portugal
Belmonte, Photo by Pedro Nuno Caetano (Flickr)

Belmonte is only 20 kilometers away from Sortelha, so you’ll see directions everywhere. Just head west!

In addition to its strong connection with the Discoveries – as the birthplace of Pedro Álvares Cabral, the Portuguese navigator who discovered Brazil in 1500 – Belmonte also has a huge connection with the Portuguese Jewish community and even belongs to Portugal’s Jewish Quarters Network.

Learn all about the history of the powerful Cabral family and the discovery of Brazil by visiting Belmonte Castle (with its Manueline window), the Church of Santiago and Pantheon of the Cabrais and the modern Museum of the Discoveries, housed in the Solar dos Cabrais.

Take a trip to Largo do Pelourinho to see the historic Paço do Concelho and wander through the cobbled streets of the Jewish quarter. Visit the Jewish Museum and the Bet Eliahu Synagogue. A real journey through the past (and present) of Portugal’s largest Jewish community.

And make sure you visit the nearby Centum Cellas, in Colmeal da Torre. The most recent excavations say that it may have been a Roman villa dating back to the 1st century AD, but nobody knows for sure the purpose of its famous tower. Watching the sunset from Centum Cellas, with the Serra da Estrela on the horizon, is pure magic.

Southern Villages

This group of villages includes what is considered the “most Portuguese village in Portugal” that served as a filming location for House of the Dragon and a village that looks like a Nativity scene.

Monsanto

Monsanto Village Portugal
Monsanto, Photo by Javier Habladorcito (Flickr)

The easiest way to get there is to take the N345 toward Penamacor (also worth a visit). Then take the N332 for about half an hour and, if the fog is not too thick, you should be able to see Monsanto.

The village of Monsanto is divided into two distinct areas. The upper area, where the castle built by the Knights Templar stands, and the lower area where the houses stand.

In the lower part, the highlights are the main church, the Church of Misericórdia, the Torre do Lucano (a.k.a. the clock tower), the Cruzeiro de São Salvador, the Praça dos Canhões viewpoint and the iconic Casa entre Penedos (literally the “house between boulders”, you’ll know it when you see it).

To visit the summit of Monsanto, you can’t avoid a walk along the steep Penedos Juntos trail. The good thing is that along the way you can enjoy the fantastic views from the Penedo do Pé Calvo, visit the Monsanto cave and the castiças furdas (old pigsties).

Once you’re in the upper part, don’t forget to go up and walk around the castle walls, and visit the ruins of the keep, the Chapel of Santa Maria do Castelo, and the Romanesque Chapel of São Miguel.

Idanha-a-Velha

Idanha-a-Velha Village Portugal
Idanha-a-Velha, Photo by Carole Raddato (Flickr)

Located just 10 kilometers southwest of Monsanto, it’s incredibly easy to get there since it’s very well indicated.

This is one of the oldest villages in the network of historic villages in Portugal, with a history dating back to the first century BC.

It began as a Roman villa, was integrated into the kingdom of the Visigoths and Suevi after the barbarian invasions (at the time it was known as Egitânia), passed through Muslim hands, and was reconquered by the Christians in the 12th century and donated to the Order of the Templars by (guess what) King Dinis so that it could be rebuilt.

That said, it’s no wonder that every stone in Idanha-a-Velha has a story to tell. And Idanha-a-Velha does have a lot of stones.

The most emblematic sites in Idanha-a-Velha are the Cathedral (where elements of Roman, Paleo-Christian, Visigothic, and Medieval culture coexist), the archaeological remains belonging to the ancient Roman villa, the iconic Templar Tower, the Chapel of São Sebastião, the main church and the pillory, the Roman walls and the Roman bridge over the Pônsul river.

Castelo Novo

Castelo Novo Village Portugal
Castelo Novo, Photo by Julen Iturbe-Ormaetxe (Flickr)

Take the N332, then turn left to both the N239 and the N233 a few minutes later. Once you’re at Lousa, take the N18-7 to get to the A23. You’ll find Castelo Novo on your left.

The village of Castelo Novo is literally nestled on one of the slopes of the slender Serra da Gardunha, in a natural amphitheater landscape that lifts the soul.

Walking through its cobbled streets, bordered by a mixture of humble houses and opulent manor houses, with the sound of water flowing in its fountains as a soundtrack, has left its mark on our memory.

Among the places we most like to visit are the castle and bell tower (built on an impressive granite massif), the Town Hall Square, the main church, the Bica Fountain, and the Gamboas and D. Silvestre manors.

If you’re going in the summer, don’t forget your bathing suit, as there’s a delightful river beach just outside Castelo Novo. If you’re going in April, add at least one day to your tour and go and see the unparalleled spectacle of the cherry blossoms in Serra da Gardunha.

Piódão

Piódão Village Portugal
Piódão, Photo by Mussi Katz (Flickr)

Getting to Piódão from Castelo Novo is kind of a long drive, but a very scenic and well-worth one. Hop back on the A23 and leave it once you reach Tortosendo. Then, take the N18-4 and the N230 headed west. After a very curvy drive, turn left (south) on the CM1134 and Piódão will emerge, hidden behind a curve.

Piódão, also known as Aldeia Presépio, is without a doubt one of the most beautiful and idyllic villages in Portugal. Seeing its black schist houses and slate roofs, with their typical blue-painted doors and shutters, climbing up the hill, will make anyone fall in love. And if you see it at night, with the little lights dancing in the darkness of the hills, you’re liable to swear eternal love.

There’s no doubt that the best thing about Piódão is getting lost in its sloping schist alleys. But still, try to find some time to visit its Museum Center, the sui generis Church of Nossa Senhora da Conceição, and Piódão’s fantastic river beach (if you go in summer, don’t hesitate to take a dip).

Last Thoughts

Penha Garcia Village Portugal
Penha Garcia, Photo by Pedro Nuno Caetano (Flickr)

So, what do you think? By now, your leg muscles must be as strong as a marathon runner’s! The Historical Villages are one of my favorite destinations in the country and I try to visit as often as I can as they provide me with a great dose of nature, peace, silence, and history. All of them seem too tiny in the infinity of a globalized world, but they are so full of genuine people.

The Historical Villages serve as a gateway to immersive walking trails, leading you through enchanting woods where Portugal laurel and holly thrive. Explore layered valleys, remnants of glaciers, depressions, and water streams that enrich agricultural fields. Find waterfalls and unique rocky formations as you embark on this captivating journey.

And, hopefully, they’ll open your curiosity to visit some other locations off the beaten path. Places like Penedono, Folgosinho, Pinhel, Penamacor, or Penha Garcia are all in this region and, even if they are not officially part of this network, they’re well worth your visit. After that, you can head South, and explore another quaint network of villages famous for their white walls and red rooftops. I’m talking, of course, about Alqueva’s Riverside Villages.

I’ll see you there!

Tradition and Modernity – Welcome to Santarém

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Perched high on a plateau, Santarém is a viewpoint over the fertile Lezíria region, the Tagus River valley known for its agriculture, cattle breeding, and bullfighting. Often overshadowed by Lisbon, just one hour away, the city has its own culture and traditions that both defined and stemmed from the old Ribatejo (literally “above the Tagus River”) region for centuries.

Santarém is located in Central Portugal and has excellent accessibility by road and rail. It is also conveniently served by the country’s main railway line: the northern line (double track, electrified, and with a large number of connections both to Lisbon and to other parts of the country).

The city of Santarém offers visitors theaters, cinemas, art galleries, and other spaces for cultural activities. Recently restructured, the Sá da Bandeira Theater offers a varied program, including lectures, music, theater, and cinema, among others. The Taborda theater, on the other hand, is mainly geared towards the presentation of plays.

The city was part of the territories of the Order of Christ, which financially supported the Portuguese Discoveries, and developed a great deal during that time, which is still reflected today in the monuments that are so important to the history of Portuguese art. So hop on, and let’s discover everything this city has to offer!

Santarém’s History: A Blast From the Past

Santarém has been desired and contested by various civilizations throughout the ages. Its names changed over time, reflecting different rulers and cultures. From its foundation as Scallabis, through Roman, Visigothic, and Muslim occupations, to its reconquest by King Afonso Henriques in 1147, leading to its current name.

The city’s roots can be traced to Greco-Roman and Christian mythology, and it played a crucial role as a trading post and administrative center during Roman rule. Islamic occupation saw Santarém’s cultural and artistic flourishing, producing notable poets and troubadours.

Reconquered by King Afonso Henriques in 1147, Santarém received charters to establish its municipal structure. The 14th and 15th centuries marked a golden age, hosting the royal residence and becoming a cultural hub. However, the Court’s presence diminished in the 16th century, and the 1755 earthquake caused significant heritage loss.

In the 19th century, Santarém faced challenges from French invasions and the Peninsular War. Liberal ideologies found support among the locals, but the extinction of religious orders in 1834 and the subsequent destruction of heritage raised concerns.

Elevated to district capital in 1837 and gaining city status in 1868, Santarém embraced modernity with the arrival of the railway and the construction of the D. Luís I Bridge. The town’s agricultural significance was revitalized in the late 19th century with agricultural exhibitions.

Santarém played a pivotal role in the political-military movement of the Captains of April 1974, contributing to the establishment of the democratic regime in Portugal. Throughout its history, despite changing rulers, it maintained its strategic importance and reputation as an administrative center and cultural hub.

How to Get To Santarém

By Plane

Santarém doesn’t have an airport, even though it’s one of the locations on the table for the location of Lisbon’s new airport.

By Car

From Lisbon, take the A1 highway northbound and follow the signs for Santarém. Depending on traffic, your trip should take somewhere between 45 minutes and 1 hour.

From Porto, you’ll also need to take the A1 highway, but this time southbound. Pass Aveiro, Coimbra, and Leiria during your 3-hour drive before you reach Santarém.

By Bus

There are multiple daily buses connecting Lisbon to Santarém. To catch one of them, get to the Sete Rios bus terminal, the main hub in the city. The ride to Santarém takes 60 to 90 minutes.

From Porto, head to the Campo 24 de Agosto bus terminal. There are several daily buses and the journey takes somewhere between 4 and 5 hours.

By Train

From Lisbon, you can catch the train to Santarém at either the Santa Apolónia station or the Oriente station. The trip takes less than an hour.

From Porto, you’ll need to head to the Campanhã station to catch your train. After just 2 and a half hours, you’ll reach Santarém.

When to Go to Santarém

In terms of climate, Santarém is one of the extremes. Summers in these parts are very hot and Santarém often sees sporadic torrid days in July and August. Winters are the complete opposite, with lots of rain and even days when it feels like Siberia.  However, when the sun shines and you’re blessed with the mild temperatures of spring and fall, any afternoon stroll through Santarém is simply delightful.

Speaking of delights, Santarém has been synonymous with gastronomy in Portugal for over four decades. The Santarém National Gastronomy Festival usually takes place in the second half of October and brings together the best of our gastronomy and winemaking to one place, with representatives from the four corners of the country serving snacks, traditional dishes, and regional delicacies in the famous Tasquinhas de Santarém.

Another national event that Santarém hosts is the National Agriculture Fair in June. From the first Ribatejo Fair in 1954, it only took ten years for it to grow to the size of the largest national agricultural fair, which has now transcended borders.

Marked by the greatest Ribatejo traditions and icons, the great Santarém Festivities take place between March 15, the date of the city’s conquest, and March 19, a municipal holiday and the day of Saint Joseph, one of Santarém’s patron saints. The genuine Ribatejo character of the “festa brava” still animates it, with the unavoidable presence of its folklore, the fandango, and the emblematic figure of the campino, the unofficial Portuguese cowboy.

A focus of pilgrimage, the traditional Feasts of the Most Holy Miracle take place on Easter Sunday, with veneration of the Holy Relic, religious celebrations, and a grand procession through the streets of Santarém, decked out and covered in carpets of flowers.

What to See in Santarém

Wherever you come from, Santarém is love at first sight. The city stands tall on the plateau that dominates the Ribatejo marshes, with the Tagus River kneeling at its feet and swearing its love. Santarém emanates that fascination of cities that are unashamed of their age.

In its contrasts of old and new, bright and gray, noble and plebeian, it finds a balance that few others can achieve. Anyone who dares to know its secrets, to get to its heart, will find it hard to escape its charm.

To visit Santarém is to dare to uncover centuries of history, layer by layer. Prehistoric remains date the probable human occupation of the alcazaba on the Santarém Plateau back to the late Bronze Age.

Other peoples also passed through and settled here, leaving a rich legacy: Phoenicians, Romans, Alans, Vandals, Suevi, Visigoths, and Muslims until the Christian Reconquista made it definitively Portuguese. Bastion of the Tagus, the taking of Santarém was decisive in the formation of Portugal.

As one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in Portugal, it’s easy to guess that Santarém is the guardian of an extremely valuable historical legacy. And it has all the ingredients for a perfect getaway: rich heritage, admirable architecture, cultural identity, delicious gastronomy, and friendly people.

Portas do Sol and Castle

Castle Santarém Portugal
Castle of Santarém, Photo by Vitor Oliveira (Flickr)

There’s no better place to start an itinerary to visit Santarém than at its ancient and lofty castle. Just follow the signs and you’re well on your way to one of Portugal’s most exciting viewpoints.

From prehistoric settlement to Portuguese castle, these stones have witnessed more than 28 centuries of human history. From the Roman “Scalabis”, to the Visigoth “Sancta Irena”, to the Muslim “Chantarim”, to current-day “Santarém”, ingeniously and audaciously taken by King Afonso Henriques in the dead of night on March 15, 1147, with just over two and a half hundred skilled Templar soldiers, via the vanished Porta da Atamarma. It is he, the first King of Portugal, who dominates the center of the garden, represented by a bronze statue – any resemblance to the statue of King Afonso Henriques in the town of Guimarães, by Soares dos Reis, is no coincidence.

But the best way to learn the story of this ancient space is at the Urbis Scallabis Interpretation Center in the garden grounds, which exhibits archaeological finds from the ancient alcazaba and tells the story of Santarém, from prehistory to the contemporary age, in multimedia format, and which is well worth a visit.

Cathedral

Santarém Cathedral Portugal
Cathedral of Santarém, Photo by João Alves (Flickr)

The Church of Nossa Senhora da Conceição, initially owned by the priests of the Society of Jesus and, after 1780, by the Patriarchal Seminary of Santarém, is one of the most important and beautiful sacred monuments of the Scalabitan heritage.

The interior of the single-nave temple has eight side chapels, where the splendor and richness of the Baroque dazzle us, in clear contrast with the sobriety of the frontispiece. The ceiling of the nave, in a prospective painting, from 1728 with the iconography of the ascension of Our Lady, Jesuit figures and allegories to the parts of the then-known World.

The beautiful ceiling of the Main Chapel is the work, from an architectural perspective, of the Scalabitan painter Luís Gonçalves de Sena, executed in 1754 and which complements the enchantment that the entire interior decoration conveys to us.

Eugénio Silva Palace and City Hall

Santarém’s City Hall currently occupies the Meneses Palace, a beautiful example of sunny civil architecture from the mid-17th century or, at least, the end of the 17th century.

The palace has classic lines, elegant and sober facades, full of bay windows with their characteristic 18th-century moldings and curiously pinnacled. Above the windows, the architect opened small openings for lighting the attic. The main entrance is located in the middle of the North façade, with a modeled and pinnacled stonework door, in the middle of which, on the lintel, was placed the central window, surmounted by a triangular pediment. Above the crack in this window is the coat of arms of the Meneses family, the first owners and providers of the marshes in the 18th century.

Town Market

Painted Tiles Town Market Santarém Portugal
In Santarém’s Town Market even the traditional painted tiles allude to the city’s bullfighting tradition, Photo by Lux Machina (Flickr)

Dating from 1930 and designed by architect Cassiano Branco, it replaced the open-air market that had survived for centuries in Praça Visconde Serra do Pilar, known as Praça Velha.

In addition to the building’s architectural language, its exterior features a remarkable set of fifty-five figurative and eight decorative tile panels commissioned from the now-defunct Sacavém Factory, which represent the tourist and regional advertising motifs that characterized the Ribatejo capital at the beginning of the 20th century.

Monastery of Santa Maria de Almoster

The Monastery of Santa Maria de Almoster was founded on the initiative of Lady Berengária Aires, a lady at the court of Queen Isabel, in fulfillment of the will of her mother, Lady Sancha Pires, to erect a monastery of Cistercian nuns in Almoster.

The complex consists of the church, the dormitories (in ruins), the old refectory, and the chapter room, arranged around the cloister, of which only two sections remain. On the floor of the chapter room, there are several tombstones of abbesses, and above the benches you can see a row of 18th-century tiles.

The church, which follows the Mendicant Gothic style, is made up of three five-section naves with ogival arches, separated by pillars with pilasters attached, decorated with floral capitals.

The internal space of the temple is divided by the construction of a low Mannerist choir, which separated the area for the religious from the part for the laity.

King Luís Bridge

An important engineering feat among the metal bridges of the industrial era in Portugal and a remarkable example of iron architecture, it was inaugurated on September 17, 1881, linking Santarém to Almeirim. At the time, it was considered the largest in the Iberian Peninsula, the third in Europe and the sixth in the world. It was refurbished in 1956 to a design by Edgar Cardoso.

Ribeira de Santarém

Ribeira de Santarém Portugal
Ribeira de Santarém, Photo by Vitor Oliveira (Flickr)

An old town linked to the river traffic that once made Santarém the gateway to Ribatejo. Houses, lanes, and alleys, as well as a few monuments (Santa Cruz Church and Palhais Fountain), make it attractive. On the banks of the Tagus, the standard of Santa Iria perpetuates the memory of the appearance of the Saint’s tomb to Queen Santa Isabel and King Dinis.

Last Thoughts

You might have noticed that I didn’t include any suggestions on where to eat, and that’s no accident. The truth is that you can find a great restaurant anywhere you go in Santarém. Just avoid anything with “chez” or any English words in their names, and you’re bound to have a great meal. I feel like picking just two or three restaurants to highlight would be unfair and reductive for a city that is known for serving great food.

But what do you say? Will you give Santarém a try? It’s only one hour away from Lisbon, so time and distance are not an excuse. Trust me, just hop on a train, walk up the castle, and sit bit the walls to watch the sunset on the horizon. Trust me, you’ll wish you could spend more time in this fantastic city.

Alqueva’s Riverside Villages

Deep inside southern Portugal, lies the Alentejo region. A land of vast countryside and scorching summers, often seen as a desert by its own country, even though it was once described as the “nation’s breadbasket”. It was home to many different peoples through the years, from the Romans to the Moors and the Christians.

But the Alentejo has changed. Today, it is more of an olive grove than a breadbasket, multiculturalism is now a reality and, most importantly, it is now an oasis, not a desert. And this is thanks to the Great Lake of Alqueva, a dam that took over three decades to conclude and completely reshaped the region.

At the time of its construction, it was Europe’s largest artificial lake, extending for over 250 square kilometers, and encompassing three municipalities and two districts. Its main purpose is energy production and as a water reservoir, but in my opinion, its biggest achievement was creating a beautiful inner sea on a countryside background that is still fairly unexplored by tourism.

It was within this context that a group of previously forgotten villages rose to prominence and presented themselves as quaint, charming options for travelers looking for a truly genuine experience, away from the crowds and right in the middle of the countryside, but with many entertainment options for the adrenaline junkies too.

I’m talking, of course, of Alqueva’s Riverside Villages, a network of sixteen villages located on the shores of the Great Lake, famous for their white houses and red roofs, cobbled streets, with only a few hundred inhabitants each, and with the countryside a stone throw away.

I hail from this region, so it is with a lot of pride and pleasure that I came up with an itinerary that you can complete in a single day or, ideally, during a full weekend to make the most out of it. The route I chose starts at the northernmost village of Juromenha and follows a centripetal, counter-clockwise path before concluding at Monsaraz, the crown jewel of the region.

This guide includes descriptions of each village, suggestions on where to stay for the night, where to eat, when to go, and what to do. It’s as complete as it gets, so make sure to give it a read before you head to the Alqueva Lake, so you don’t miss a thing. Ready? Let’s go.

Juromenha

Juromenha Village Alqueva Alentejo Portugal
Juromenha, Photo by Rui Ornelas (Flickr)

Our journey starts in the municipality of Alandroal, in Alto Alentejo. Getting there from Lisbon is fairly easy. All you need to do is take the 25 de Abril bridge and follow the A2 highway. After about 40 minutes, switch to the A6 at Marateca towards Évora and just drive all the way until you reach Elvas after around one hour. From there, just take the N373 for less than ten minutes and you should be there.

Juromenha is a Portuguese parish in the municipality of Alandroal with around 100 inhabitants. Located at the northeast end of the municipality, it borders the disputed Territory of Olivença to the southeast. It is the smallest parish in the municipality in terms of area, population, and population density.

It was the seat of a municipality, which was abolished around 1836, and included the parishes of Juromenha and São Brás dos Matos and, in 1801, it had 823 inhabitants. The town of Vila Real, located beyond the Guadiana, administered by Spain since 1801, and part of the municipality of Olivença nowadays, belonged to the municipality and parish of Juromenha.

Juromenha’s origins go back a long way, having held the honorable position of sentinel of the River Guadiana, which flows at its feet. It was conquered by King Afonso Henriques in 1167. It then entered the domains of the Order of Avis, to whom it was donated by King Sancho I. Some important episodes took place there during the 17th-century Restoration War and the 19th-century Peninsular War.

After it was annexed to the municipality of Alandroal, Juromenha began a process of decline, which was accentuated in the 1920s, when the population completely abandoned the area within the walls and the suburbs developed around the hermitage of Santo António, which is today the fundamental nucleus of the town.

The fortress, which has a polygonal plan, is the village’s highlight. Today, inside the walled enclosure, there are the ruins of two churches, the jail and the old Town Hall. In landscape terms, the old fortress has a privileged location in terms of the visual domain of the Portuguese and Spanish territories.

Capelins

Our trip continues along the N373, which we will follow for about 10 minutes before taking a left toward “Mina do Bugalho”. Then, after 15 minutes, we arrive in the often-overlooked village of Capelins, also known as Santo António.

With nearly 400 inhabitants, it feels like a metropolis in comparison to Juromenha, even though it doesn’t boast a history nearly as impressive. It is not directly overlooking the water, but it is instead surrounded by rolling, green hills that calmly move as the wind blows, creating a very relaxing landscape.

Located on the south-eastern edge of the municipality, the parish of Capelins is bordered by the municipalities of Mourão and Reguengos de Monsaraz to the south – both of which make for great “headquarters” to spend the night during this trip – and Spain to the east.

Until 1836, the parish of Capelins belonged to the extinct municipality of Terena, whose origins are very old, dating back to the 13th century when it was first granted a royal charter. Through its castle, the town of Terena played a very important role in border defense, being, like Monsaraz further south, a point on the Guadiana defense line.

Monte do Trigo

After leaving Capelins behind, you should take a left to the N255 and follow it until you reach Casas Novas de Mares. Right after leaving it, take a right toward Montoito. After crossing Montoito, take the M513 until you reach Vendinha and take a right to the N256. After about 10 minutes, take the IP2 toward São Manços, pass it, and you should find Monte do Trigo on your left after just a few kilometers.

Everything indicates that Monte do Trigo was, in the 13th century, already a very important and fundamental space, both in terms of its geographical location as a distributing node of the road network that served the region and in terms of economic resources, which meant that these lands were not included in the donation made by King Afonso III to the nobles.

In 1283, King Dinis exchanged it for the town of Alvito, which then became the property of the Monastery of the Trinity of Santarém. In the 15th century, part of this reguengo was donated to the Countess of Faro. Subsequently, the whole area became part of the patronage of the House of Bragança.

The original church of the village – whose name literally means “wheat hill” – apparently built in the 16th century, disappeared completely between 1946 and 1947, giving way to the current church, which was built on the same site and is the highlight of the village.

Amieira

Walkway Beach Amieira Village Alqueva Alentejo Portugal
A walkway near Amieira’s riverside beach, Photo by Fernando Moital (Flickr)

From Monte do Trigo, it’s very easy to get to Amieira. Just take the IP2 again and get out at Portel. Then follow the directions to Moura, taking you along the R384. After about 10 minutes, take a left following the indications to Amieira, which will take you back to the N255. You’ll be able to see the village in the distance.

Amieira is a quiet village situated in a valley between the Amieira stream and the Degebe river, it is today a riverside village on the large Alqueva lake that draws crowds during summer thanks to its very pleasant artificial beach.

The word “amieira” or “amieiro“, which means “frequent tree in wetlands”, may be the origin of the name of this parish. The proximity of water from various streams, and especially the River Degebe, would make those lands humid, allowing for an abundance of vegetation, including alder trees. This natural name may have come to identify the place, along with the name given to the parish: Nossa Senhora das Neves da Amieira.

Amieira is home to a Marina that has an incredible restaurant and offers a wide range of nautical products, services, and activities such as river cruises, boat rentals, and water sports.

Alqueva

Alqueva Village Alentejo Portugal
Alqueva Lake took its name from the nearby village, Photo by Vitor Oliveira (Flickr)

From Amieira, you’ll need to drive back along the N255 toward Moura. Then take a left, which will bring you back to the R384 and after just a few minutes you’ll reach Alqueva.

The village of Alqueva is part of the municipality of Portel, in the district of Évora. The first references to this village appear in documents from 1285. The name “Alqueva” derives from “alqueive“, which means “fallow land” or “deserted land”, which is due to its very dry and rough soils, which was one of the biggest obstacles to the development of this region.

But it all changed a few decades ago when a proposal was made to build a dam next to the village with the aim of irrigating the soils and bringing development to a region whose main activity was agriculture. The dam is, of course, the Great Lake of Alqueva, which took its name from this village.

Recently, the parish built an artificial beach just outside the village, making it a great spot to park your car and head for a dip in the warm waters of the lake.

Marmelar

You won’t need to switch roads to get to Marmelar. At the roundabout in Alqueva, there are indications for Marmelar and Vidigueira. Just follow that road for 15 kilometers and it should take you there. During this quick ride, you’ll cross from the Alto Alentejo region to the Baixo Alentejo region. See if you can spot the differences in the landscape!

The village, which throughout the years has been part of the municipalities of Beja, then Cuba, and finally Vidigueira, has its origins shrouded in mystery, but some architectural testimonies reveal a very old settlement.

Located on the right bank of the Guadiana, Marmelar has always enjoyed favorable conditions for human settlement, as witnessed by the Corte Serrão dolmens, which tell us about the occupation of this region during the Eneolithic period, when the dead were worshipped through the construction of funerary monuments.

The picturesque Church of Santa Brígida in Marmelar is worth a visit while you’re here. It dates back to the 16th century and it’s a great example of traditional religious architecture in the region.

Pedrogão

Pedrogão is the head of the parish Marmelar is a part of, so it won’t be hard for you to find directions leading you there. The trip from Marmelar to Pedrogão takes less than ten minutes, so just enjoy the warm breeze and the vineyards on your way there.

The Pedrógão dam, which is part of the Alqueva development, was built next to this peaceful village in 2006 with the aim of stabilizing the flow of the River Guadiana downstream of the Alqueva dam, to produce electricity and supply water for irrigation, so these lands have since become very fertile, something they didn’t always benefit from.

Even the name “Pedrogão” seems to come from the word “pedra”, which means “rock”. You can still see a lot of rock formations scattered around the village and a lot of those were collected and transported to the nearby Corte Serrão dolmens, which are worth a visit.

Mina da Orada

Back on the N258, cross the wide bridge over the Guadiana, and it’s only five minutes before you see the plaques directing you to Orada. Take the right exit and the village is right ahead.

A village in the parish of Pias, in the municipality of Serpa, Orada is located next to the Pedrógão dam. It’s a small village whose main economic activity was mineral extraction until the mine, located next to the town, was shut down in 1971.

Its main attractions are the Chapel of Nossa Sra dos Prazeres and the old magnetite mine, now flooded, which is a popular place for diving. If you do decide to jump in, make sure you bring company or have spotters since it is actually not allowed – even though locals do it all the time.

The lake of the Orada mine is a very beautiful place, inspiring tranquility as only the Alentejo is capable of instilling, and is a popular spot for locals. According to those who have dived here, diving in the lake is relatively simple with very acceptable visibility and some life to discover. There are several galleries and tunnels that are interconnected. However, entry to the galleries is not recommended for anyone who is not certified for cave diving.

Póvoa de São Miguel

From Orada, you’ll need to get back to the N258 and head toward Moura. This city – where yours truly hails from – is a great place to spend the night and break this itinerary into two legs with eight villages per day. You’ll cross Moura from the west to the northeast, taking the N255 and crossing the River Ardila. Right after the bridge, take a right and switch to the N386 which will take you to Póvoa de São Miguel.

Póvoa de São Miguel is located in the municipality of Moura, on the left bank of the Guadiana River, halfway along the road linking Moura to Mourão. It stands on a high point from where you can see Monsaraz Castle. Next to the village runs the Ribeira do Zebro, which is now a branch of the Alqueva dam.

The village’s origins date back to the end of the 14th century, following the Sesmarias Law, published in 1375 by King Fernando, whose aim was to settle people in the countryside. The black plague ravaged Europe during this period and had a particular impact on the cities, where the mortality rate was very high, causing a shortage of manpower and causing wages to skyrocket. This led to the aforementioned exodus from the countryside to the cities, leaving the fields abandoned with a consequent lack of cereals and other agricultural products in the country.

As a curiosity, the population of Póvoa had, in the 2021 census, 761 inhabitants. The official name of the town was just Póvoa, but for many years it had been known among its inhabitants as Póvoa de São Miguel, in honor of its patron saint, and this name was made official in 1988.

Estrela

Estrela Village Alqueva Alentejo Portugal
Sunset at Estrela’s pier, Photo by Paulo Valdivieso (Flickr)

Drive across the village, following the directions to Mourão. Following the M517, it’s only a short drive before you see the indication for Estrela to the left, sitting on a peninsula, directly facing the Great Lake.

Due to its exceptional location, an anchorage was built where the boats that cross the Alqueva dam dock. It’s a great place for a stroll, a picnic, or even a swim. It’s also a great place for lunch. Sabores da Estrela was an incredible restaurant, but it recently closed. But this tiny village has other great restaurants, so make sure you try some migas or an açorda.

Granja

You’ll need to drive back to the M517, but only for a few meters. Turn right toward Amareleja/Granja. Follow the road for 15 minutes until you reach the N385, where you’ll take a left and, once again, return to the Alto Alentejo region. Granja is right ahead.

Granja is located next to one of the dam’s branches, the Alcarrache stream. Its heritage includes the Head Church, which stands out from the other houses in the village. Built in the 16th century, it has a rectangular floor plan and a large nave, and its interior contains paintings of great interest. Also noteworthy is the Church of Santa Casa da Misericórdia right in the center of the village.

Historically, little is known about the history of this village, largely due to the constant pillaging by the Spanish during the Restoration War. However, there are references dating back to the 13th century to a “Granja do Hospital”, administered by the regimental order of the Freires do Hospital.

It is, however, known that the Romans and Arabs also inhabited this region, leaving behind bridges over the rivers Alcarrache and Godelim, as well as several Moorish chimneys.

Aldeia da Luz

Aldeia da Luz Village Alqueva Alentejo Portugal
Aldeia da Luz, Photo by Rui Ornelas (Flickr)

The N358 will take you across one of the most beautiful bridges you’ll see in Portugal, over the Alqueva Lake. Once you get to Mourão, follow the directions to Estrela/Luz until you find yourself on the M517, where you’ll need to turn right after a while and head southwest until you reach Luz.

No other village is more symbolic than Aldeia da Luz. That’s because this is actually not the original village. The original village lies under the waters of the Alqueva Lake.  The new village was built in such a way as to essentially maintain the characteristics of the old village, inch by inch.

The issue of relocating the inhabitants of the village of Luz began in 1981. Three options were considered: compensate the inhabitants, transfer them to a neighboring village, or build a similar village. This last alternative was chosen and was preferred by the population, so construction began in 1998 and finished in 2002.

Today, it is a beautiful village right by the water and its recent construction gives it a very clean and neat look that makes it very unique. The village also has a museum dedicated to preserving the memory of the old village that is definitely worth stopping by.

Campinho

You’ll need to head back to Mourão and this time follow the directions to Reguengos de Monsaraz. This should put you on the N256 and, once again, you’ll drive across a bridge over the lake. If you look to your right, you’ll spot Ilha Dourada, an island with an artificial beach that you can visit by boat. It’s as peaceful as it gets. Once you get to Reguengos, follow the directions to Évora/São Marcos do Campo. Once you get to the N255, follow it until you reach Cumeada, then take a left to the M532 which will get you to Campinho in no time.

An airfield and mooring have been built next to the small village, so it has been the scene of various nautical and aeronautical activities. There is also a picnic area next to the Alqueva reservoir, which is a great place for a peaceful picnic.

At one end of the village is the Sagrado Coração de Jesus Church, built in the 20th century with architectural lines that represent the sobriety and monumentality of the Estado Novo. On the tower, the bells of the Braga Foundry are engraved with the date November 1957.

São Marcos do Campo

São Marcos do Campo is so close to Campinho that you could even walk your way there. It’s just four kilometers along the CM1129 in a nearly straight line.

The village of São Marcos do Campo, with a total of 840 inhabitants, is linked to the bank of the reservoir formed by the river Degebe, and to the village of Amieira on the opposite bank.  This village was built in the 13th century.

The Church of São Marcos do Campo was built in the 16th century, with references to it dating back to 1534. In the 18th century, it was completely remodeled and the body of the nave was enlarged.

Telheiro

Get back to Reguengos de Monsaraz and follow the indications to Monsaraz. Once you’re on the M514, follow it for about twenty minutes until you reach Telheiro on the foothill of Monsaraz.

The village of Telheiro is a small settlement in the parish of Monsaraz, which has developed in conjunction with the parish seat. It is located at the base of the hill on which Monsaraz stands, so there is reason to believe it was reserved for the commoners back in the day.

Its main tourist attractions are its fountain dating from the 18th century, as well as several megalithic monuments that demonstrate the occupation of this region in ancient times.

Monsaraz

Monsaraz Village Alqueva Alentejo Portugal
Monsaraz, Photo by Javier Habladorcito (Flickr)

I don’t think you need any directions given that you can see Monsaraz right ahead. Just go up the mountain, it’s not tricky at all.

Monsaraz lies next to the Guadiana on top of a hill that rises out of Alentejo’s never-ending plains. It was conquered from the Moors in 1167 by Geraldo Sem-Pavor and handed over to the Templars by King Sancho II for defense and settlement.

For centuries, the castle of Monsaraz played the role of a lookout point on the Guadiana, from where the border with Castile could be seen. It was the seat of the municipality until 1838 when this function passed to Reguengos.

The medieval town of Monsaraz, protected by its walls, is a small village with its schist streets and whitewashed walls. Its narrow streets are full of nooks and crannies and its backdrop is a breathtaking view of the Alentejo landscape and the Alqueva Lake.

Last Thoughts

And with several hotels and restaurants, and a castle you can visit for free, this is the perfect place to conclude our journey through the Alqueva Lake, watching the sunset with a glass of wine and a table full of bread, cheese, cold meats, and olives.

I really hope I was able to convince you to give this region a chance. As a local, I think there is a lot it can offer, and given that it’s fairly out of hand, it’s never too crowded, making it the perfect place for a pleasant and peaceful 2 or 3-day weekend.

As for the best time to come, the Alentejo is great year-round. In winter, it’s not too cold and not too rainy either. And by the end of December, you usually get very sunny days. Spring is usually a fan favorite, but March and April are quite unpredictable when it comes to the weather. May and June, while the temperature is getting warmer are great months to visit. July through September are great too, especially since there are many artificial beaches scattered around the region, so you get to escape the scorching heat.

But, whenever you decide to visit, I hope you have a great time!